LUXURY

高級珠寶設計當紅元素 Popular Elements for 2019 High Jewelry

來到年末,2019年也即將落下帷幕,回顧今年各大品牌的高級珠寶作品,在風格各異之間仍能看出微妙的相似元素。

高級珠寶(High Jewelry)雖說沒有明確的定義,但整體而言其選材多為貴金屬,珠寶寶石也使用天然鑽石寶石,高級珠寶系列即便配鑽採用的等級也相當高,對寶石的切工更是講究。高級珠寶一般不是孤品也數量極其有限,也多出自資深的珠寶匠師之手,每一件作品從設計到完成除了耗費人力,每件作品根據難易度耗時從數月到數年都有可能,這也是高級珠寶地位崇高的原因。

With the year coming to an end, the year 2019 will also be over soon, and looking back at the high jewelry works from the various brands this year, similar subtle elements may still be seen amongst the different styles.

Although there is no clear definition of High Jewelry, but on the whole, the selected material is mainly precious metal, while the gemstones for the jewelry also applied natural diamonds and precious stones, even the diamond chips adopted for high jewelry are of extremely high grades, not to mention the stress placed on gemstone cuts. High jewelry, in general, are one-piece only or are available in extremely limited quantity, which is mainly created by experienced jewelry craftsman. Other than being labor-consuming from design to completion for each piece of work, it may take months or even years to complete depending on the difficulty of each workpiece, and this is why high jewelry has such a high status.

寶石的漸層美學

選鑽一直是高級珠寶的關鍵因素,在今年的各大品牌所推出的高級珠寶系列中,許多品牌分別推出漸層鑲嵌彩色寶石的設計,也就更考驗選鑽的功力,所鑲嵌的寶石可能涉及種類廣泛,有彩鑽、藍寶石,也可能是石榴石、錳鋁榴石、尖晶石、碧璽等顏色豐富多樣的不同寶石,要將這些深淺不同的寶石以漸層方式精確且流暢地組合起來,看似簡單卻蘊含複雜專業的功力,而漸層的鑲嵌也讓珠寶設計得以呈現出更豐富的視覺層次。

伯爵今年《Golden Oasis 燦金綠洲》 頂級珠寶系列的Desert Minerals漠地之泉主題中,伯爵精選濃淡不同的藍寶石搭配鑽石以漸層方式鋪排鑲嵌,將大自然汩汩泉水的流洩美景化入珠寶設計之中,以藍白顏色呈現出泉水流動的視覺感。相同的手法亦可在梵克雅寶「Treasure of Rubies」高級珠寶系列中的Jardin de rubis項鍊及可拆式胸針看到,梵克雅寶藉由紅寶與粉鑽、白鑽的搭配,以豐富的紅色系色彩層次演繹莓果令人垂涎的色澤。

MIKIMOTO則是在《Jardin Mystérieux》秘密花園頂級珠寶系列中也大量運用漸層色的鑲嵌方式。為了呈現出花朵的立體感,MIKIMOTO在花瓣處嵌入了顏色層次豐富的藍寶石、碧璽、石榴石、紫翠玉與鑽石等,將花朵綻放的姿態詮釋得繽紛且生動。CINDY CHAO一直都擅長鑲嵌大量不同色調的寶石以創造寶石作品的生命力與靈動性,在最新的鳶尾花浮雕手環中,CINDY CHAO融合鳶尾花與浮雕的概念,鑲嵌了數量跟色彩都相當驚人的珠寶,這一手環兼具了立體感、流暢度及色彩斑斕的視覺性,宛如藝術創作。

Gradation Aesthetics of Gemstones

The selection of diamonds has always been the key factor to high jewelry, for the high jewelry collection launched by the various brands this year; many brands have launched mountings with a gradation of colored gemstone design, which further challenges the skills towards diamond selection. Meanwhile, the gemstones inlaid may cover a wide range of types, which could be colored diamond, sapphire, or colorful and diversified precious stones including garnet, spessartine, spinel and tourmaline, etc. In order to accurately and smoothly assemble these gemstones with different shades in a graduated approach, it requires what appears to be simple but actually contains sophisticated professional skills, and the gradation mounting allows the jewelry design to present more abundant visual layers.

In the Desert Minerals theme of the “Golden Oasis” high jewelry collection from Piaget this year, Piaget has selected sapphires with different shades to match the gradation mounting of the diamonds, transforming the landscape of natural flowing spring water into the jewelry design. The same technique can also be seen in the Jardin de rubis neck-lace and removable brooch in the “Treasure of Rubies” high jewelry collection from Van Cleef & Arpels. Through the matching of rubies, pink diamonds and white diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels applied rich color gradation to demonstrate the mouth watering color of berries. MIKIMOTO also applied a massive amount of graduated colors for the mounting approach for the “Jardin Mystérieux” high jewelry collection, vividly presenting the three-dimensions and colors of flowers. CINDY CHAO has always been specialized in using a massive amount of different colored gemstones to create the vitality and spirit of the gemstone works; for the Scultura di Giglio bangle, CINDY CHAO fused the concepts of iris with embossing, while inlaying an astonishing quantity and colors of gemstones, such that this bangle features three-dimensionality, smoothness and colorful visual effects which resemble an art creation.

黃鑽成新寵

黃鑽毫無疑問在這一兩年間取代了白鑽,在白鑽獨領風騷多年以後,黃鑽終於成為躍上舞台的主角,眾多品牌近幾年的黃鑽作品大增,甚至連拍賣會都接連出現質量都在上乘的罕見黃鑽。天然黃鑽相比其他顏色的彩鑽,還是較為常見,可視為彩鑽的入門,價格也一直頗具競爭力。黃鑽根據顏色強度有級別之分,其中最受歡迎的顏色是中彩黃(Fancy)和濃彩黃(Fancy Intense),再高級的則有艷彩黃(Fancy Vivid)。

據悉伯爵用了一年時間收集黃鑽並運用在《Golden Oasis 燦金綠洲》 系列的「Play of Lights 光之嬉戲」系列作品中,名為「耀眼驕陽」的黃鑽頂級珠寶鑽石項鍊與黃鑽頂級珠寶鑽石戒指,皆鑲嵌了艷彩黃鑽,其濃郁的黃色用以比擬旭日初升的耀眼初陽,可說是相當適切。鑽石之王海瑞溫斯頓在今年仲秋高級珠寶系列中也同樣推出了多個珍罕的黃鑽作品,包括一顆被譽為“金絲雀”重約25.33克拉的方形祖母綠型切工頂級艷彩黃鑽戒指、一枚重達45.22克拉的心型切割黃鑽戒指、以及主石重達80.07克拉的雷德恩切工黃鑽戒指,除了有大克拉的作品之外,還有鑲嵌多枚黃鑽的項鍊耳環等,彷彿宣示著黃鑽新時代的到來。黃鑽一直都是格拉夫作品中廣泛運用的鑽石種類,今年格拉夫高級珠寶作品中也推出多款鑲嵌濃豔色彩的黃鑽新品,其中一條鑲嵌黃鑽與白鑽總重共44.24克拉的項鍊,黃鑽在其中成為閃耀的主角,白鑽以黃鑽為中心往外以放射狀排列擴散,點綴出黃鑽的耀眼色澤,更彷彿暗喻著黃鑽已成為珠寶領域強勢竄升的耀眼新星。

Yellow Diamond Becomes the New Favorite

It is without a doubt that yellow diamonds have replaced white diamonds during the recent two years, yellow dia-monds have finally become the focus on the stage after white diamonds have been popular for so many years. Yellow diamond works have increased for several brands in recent years, high-grade quality yellow diamonds can be seen continuously on auctions. Yellow diamonds are still more commonly seen as compared to other colored diamonds, and thus can be treated as the base of colored diamonds with a competitive price. Yellow diamonds can be graded according to the strength of the colors, and the most popular colors are Fancy and Fancy Intense, while the higher grade color includes Fancy Vivid. 

According to reports, Piaget collect yellow diamonds for years and applied them to works in the “Play of Lights” collection for the “Golden Oasis” collection, where the high jewelry yellow diamond necklace and ring with the name of “Rising Star” are all inlaid with fancy vivid yellow diamonds, where the strong yellow color perfectly resembles the resplendent rising sun. King of diamonds, Harry Winston has launched several rare yellow diamonds jewelry pieces for the high jewelry collection, including a 25.33 carats emerald cut fancy vivid yellow diamond ring honored by the name “Golden Glow”, a 45.22 carats heart-shaped yellow diamond ring, as well as a Radian-cut yellow diamond ring with the main stone reaching the weight of 80.07 carats. Other than large carat works, there are also necklaces and earrings inlaid with several yellow diamonds, as if announcing the time for yellow diamonds has arrived in this autumn/winter. Yellow diamonds have always been the widely used diamond type in Graff’s works; this year, Graff also launched several new pieces inlaid with strong colored yellow diamonds, amongst these is a necklace inlaid with a total of 44.24 carats of yellow and white diamonds, where the yellow diamond becomes the resplendent focus amongst them, while the white diamonds are arranged in an outward Radiant direction with the yellow diamond as the center, accentuating the resplendent color of the yellow diamond, and further implying that the yellow diamond has become the new shining star rising ambitiously in the jewelry domain.

蛋面(凸圓形)切割

雖說高級珠寶仍多以刻面寶石為主,且主要集中在幾種切割方式,主要還是因為刻面切割更能提高寶石的火光和亮度。但也有寶石不採刻面切工而是採用拋光打磨,使其外觀圓潤光滑,稱為蛋面切割(亦稱作素面、凸面、弧面、光面)及圓珠形寶石,這類型的切割特別適合將特定珠寶的內含物完美呈現出來。

蛋面切割的代表性品牌是來自義大利的寶格麗,寶格麗在30年代改良自16世紀的圓凸面切割法,創立了Cabochon蛋面切割法,以圓凸面寶石代替多重切割面的寶石,在當時的傳統派潮流中,引起一陣革命。今年寶格麗的高級珠寶大量推出多款鑲嵌蛋面切割的作品,其中Cinemagia系列頂級紅寶石與鑽石項鍊鑲嵌了一顆重達76.84克拉的枕形蛋面切割東非古董紅寶石最為吸睛。另一款令人印象深刻的作品是Cinemagia系列的Roman Blooms頂級祖母綠與鑽石項鍊,項鍊下的綴飾以類枕型蛋面的祖母綠化作盆栽器皿,上方密鑲了鑽石與圓潤的祖母綠圓珠,在光線的穿透下突顯其巧思的設計又不失高貴雅緻的氣質。此外,寶格麗擅長蛋面切割的運用在Serpenti系列作品也可見端倪,在Serpenti系列頂級紅碧璽項鍊與手鐲作品中,繁複線條的蛇頭與圓潤切割的紅碧璽相銜接,各自襯托出兩者間的工藝特性與寶石本身的色澤。

卡地亞今年Magnitude頂級珠寶系列無獨有偶也大量地使用了凸圓形切割法於寶石上,其中包括了鑲嵌圓珠型青金石的Équinoxe項鍊與戒指、Zemia戒指上的澳洲脈石蛋白石主石、Soreli項鍊、耳環與腕錶等,藉由圓潤的圓珠狀或凸圓形切割方式,以期更好地展現出寶石自身所散發的獨特光彩與特質。

Cabochon-Cut

Although high jewelry is mainly based on faceted gemstones with the focus being placed on certain types of cuts, the reason is that faceted cuts are more capable of enhancing a gemstone’s blaze and brightness. However, there are still gemstones without facets but rather adopted the polishing approach to make their looks round and smooth, it is called the cabochon cut, or round bead gemstones. This type of cut is especially suitable for perfectly demonstrating the content of a particular piece of jewelry.

The representative brand for the cabochon cut is Bvlgari from Italy, and Bvlgari has established the Cabochon cut in the ’30s by improving the round convex cut of the 16th century, replacing multifaceted gemstones with round convex gemstones, which raised a revolution in the traditionalistic trend at that time. This year, Bvlgari’s high jewelry has launched several works inlaid with cabochon cut stones, and the most eye-catching piece amongst these is the Cinemagia collection ruby and diamond necklace inlaid with a 76.84 carats East African antique cushion cabochon cut ruby. Another impressive work is the Cinemagia collection Roman Blooms High Jewellery necklace, the pendant of the necklace uses a cushion cabochon cut emerald to transform it into a potted plant container, with diamonds and round cut emerald beads top, accentuating the interesting design while keeping the graceful temperament under the penetration of light. Moreover, Bvlgari’s expertise in cabochon cut application may also be seen in the Serpenti collection; for the High Jewellery Serpenti collection  necklace and bracelet, the snakehead with sophisticated lines connect with the round cut rubellite, each embellishing the craftwork characteristics and the color of the gemstone between the two. 

The works from the Magnitude high jewelry of Cartier this year also massively applied Cabochon-cut, including the lazurite inlaid on the Équinoxe necklace and ring, the Australian matrix opal main stone on the Zemia ring, as well as the Soreli necklace, earrings and wristwatch…etc. have all adopted the smooth round or Cabochon-cut to better demonstrate the unique resplendence radiated by the gemstones themselves.

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