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金蓬萊主廚 陳博璿 | 傳承中餐文化 演繹料理人生 The Heritage of Chinese Food Culture Interpreting Life Through Food

現任金蓬萊遵古台菜老闆暨主廚,陳博璿,他現今51歲,病魔纏身卻依舊笑對生活。人生下半場從走進廚房開始,餐廳連續三年奪「星」芒,他,掌握菜色中的神韻,每一步都是挑戰,每一款都是心意,人間最美烟火氣,便藏在金蓬萊烟燻的廚房裡。

初見陳博璿,沉穩而內斂,眼神堅毅。烟火氣,不是轉瞬即逝的燦爛,而是細水長流的淡然。十年前,陳博璿正式接管金蓬萊,並遷址至天母東路,以新店面、新風格,歷經許多淬鍊與堅持,將金蓬萊六十多年來傳承三代的原汁原味與精神灌注在料理中。它就像一譚老酒,越沉越香。

Upon first meeting Chen Po-Hsuan, he is calm and restrained yet his eyes show an unwavering will. As opposed to a sudden moment of brilliance, smoke from fireworks is long and winding. Chen Po-Hsuan took the reins of Golden Formosa a decade ago and relocated the restaurant to Tianmu East Road, completely revamping the interior and style. After overcoming many challenges through perseverance, he was able to infuse the authentic spirit of Golden Formosa’s dishes which have been passed down through 3 generations over the past 60 years.

匠心廚師的堅守

榮光背後,回歸廚房,地面、灶台一塵不染,每件菜碼備料的要求,長年累月地反復顛勺,都體現著陳博璿對烹飪細節的執著。作為一名餐廳經營者,對待員工如朋友、家人一般。連續三年摘「星」芒,陳博璿坦言,最重要是對團隊的鼓勵,廚房員工年紀平均很輕,這份獎項是對專業料理人的辛苦,賦予一種價值感與精神慰藉,更是對自身技藝的嚴格要求,因為料理沒有最好,只能不斷精進。

人間有味是清歡

平淡真切的生活裡,藏著很多生活希冀,廚房辛勞,讓原本患有「再生不良性貧血」的陳博璿一度病倒,妹妹陳莉莉捐骨髓為續命,妻子在病房裡照料與深情陪伴,讓他更體悟珍惜身邊人,如今自己學習將腳步放慢下來,陳博璿說,做廚房的人,最需要的就是休息和按摩。

傳承中餐的根與魂

遇見金蓬萊,喚醒記憶中的老味道,除了蓬萊排骨酥與佛跳牆以外,陳博璿更是研發了一道新的菜品「鮑魚炒飯」,在料理中感受傳承三代的成長,有一種記憶,是對於食物烹飪的熱愛。對中餐烹調的傳承,菜品有時代象徵,時代不同,就會有變化,中餐文化的傳承需要靠餐飲,溫暖而樸實,淡淡地寫出了人間至味。

The Insistence of a Master Chef

Behind the glory, Chen Po-Hsuan’s persistence and attention to detail can be observed from the spotless floor and stovetops in the kitchen, his prep requirements for each dish, and the years of experience accumulated from repetition. As a restauranteur, he treats his staff like friends and family. After receiving the honor of a Michelin star for 3 consecutive years, Chen Po-Hsuan confessed that the most important thing is encouraging his team. The award is a testimonial for the hard work put in by his young chefs and it gives them a sense of value and spiritual encouragement; furthermore, it pushes them to perform at a higher level because perfection does not exist in cuisine, only endless improvement.

The Simplest Pleasures of Life

Many of life’s hopes are hidden within a simple and earnest lifestyle. The hardships of the kitchen at one point caused Chen Po-Hsuan to collapse from aplastic anemia. A bone marrow transplant from his sister Chen Li-Li and the company of his wife made him learn to value and appreciate the people around him. Today, he’s learned to slow down and often states that the two things needed by people who work in kitchens are massage and rest.

Inheriting the Essence and Soul of Chinese Cuisine

Golden Formosa awakens the flavors from one’s memory. In addition to their signature deep fried pork ribs and Buddha’s Temptation, Chen Po-Hsuan has also created off-menu dishes such as abalone fried rice which showcases the growth of this cuisine even after three generations; it takes the form of a memory and presents itself as a passion for cooking. While the dishes inherited in Chinese cooking represent their respective eras, the changing of the times results in differences. The heritage of Chinese food culture must rely on restaurants that are simple and warm to gently depict the flavors of life.

金蓬萊遵古台菜餐廳(02)2871-1517 地址: 111台北市士林區天母東路101號

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