FASHION

2021春夏趨勢 減法不簡單 Spring Summer Trends Subtractive but not Simple

2020年由於受到疫情的影響,許多品牌不只是把時裝秀改成了線上觀看外,2021春夏趨勢也都一併受到了影響,品牌將以往春夏那鳥語花香、百花爭鳴的張揚且充滿度假風格轉往低調簡約,將奔放的春神轉向為春天的優雅,那潔白具透明感和舒適度成為了春夏的重點,像是那乾淨清新的春天空氣,又像是從花園裡的植物到飛過天際的鳥兒,自然樸實的細節,減法但不簡單。

While many brands have moved their fashion shows online due to the 2020 pandemic, this impact has also been evident in the trends of 2021’s spring/summer collections. Gone are the loud designs featuring elements such as vacationing and spring, which have been replaced by a subdued simplicity. The unrestrained Persephone has converted focus to the elegance of spring, that pure translucency and comfort have become the focal points of spring and summer. Subtractive design has turned to simple, natural details like a breath of fresh spring air, plants growing in the garden, or birds flying high above, yet it has not equated to simplicity.


鏤空針織與刺繡營造出層層交疊的光影

FENDI 2021春夏系列以「倒影反思」為主題,將家裡的元素像是白色桌巾、透明窗簾布、硬紗、絲緞和刺繡等等,描繪出待在家中的舒適感受和家人之間的親密關係,並以梯狀鏤空針織營造出層層交疊的光影,將原本硬挺的結構變得柔軟許多,鏤空針織或是刺繡絲綢與薄紗都露出大量肌膚,麥色、奶色及蜜金色色調交織著光影與反射,烘托出細膩的女性魅力。而PRADA 2021春夏大秀將針織以圓形鏤空剪裁,透出了色彩鮮豔的緊身衣猶如一幅現代抽象畫作彷彿是Simons對Calvin Klein時期的風格回望。另外,Salvatore Ferragamo則是將針織以線型橫向的方式做出流動的流蘇效果,使步行中展現飄逸動人的流動感受。

Creating Layers Of Light And Shadow Through Hollow Knit And Embroidery

FENDI’s spring 2021 show featured the theme”shadows and reflections”, taking elements from the home such as white tablecloths, translucent curtains, linens, satin silk, and embroidery to depict the comfort and close relationship of family members in the home. The use of latticework to create layers of intersecting light and shadow bestows a sense of softness to rigid structures while the use of hollow knit, embroidered silk, and chiffon exemplify the delicacy of female allure through the shadows and reflections of earth tones, cream, and gold on exposed skin. PRADA spring/summer 2021 was a display of rounded latticework to show off form-fitting tights as if it were a modern abstract piece reminiscent of Simons’ style during his Calvin Klein period. Meanwhile, Ferragamo exhibited horizontal knits to create a flowing, dynamic, yet elegant design bearing similarity to flowing tassels.


青春洋溢的花卉意境

品牌以不同的方式展現春天那美妙動人的花卉圖騰,以輕巧點綴的方式融合在高明度的色彩當中,擁抱浪漫的花卉情懷。Chloé 運用充滿圖像意境的絹印圖案勾勒出本季內在的「拼接」精神,利用多層次的色彩包括洗滌霓虹、漂染中性色系及溫暖的礦物色系中。而HUGO BOSS則是運用倫敦藝術家William Farr的花卉作品作為本季印花靈感,增添生意氣息,帶出心曠神怡的春天想像,並延續品牌的休閒主義,展現更加青春洋溢的BOSS男女形象帶來春夏全新風格。

The Youthfulness Of Flowers

Brands have ventured into different methods to present the beautiful floral totems of spring. Gone are bold gatherings and in their place is a light accentuation fused in bright colors to embrace the romantic sentiment of flowers. Chloé incorporated thoughtful silk screen patterns and depicted the innate spirit of this season,”splicing”, by layering colors such as neon, neutral colors, and earth tones. HUGO BOSS was inspired by the floral pieces of London artist William Farr. The upcoming collection is full of life and imaginations of uplifting spring as well as extending the brand’s philosophy of leisureism and presenting an all new youthful spring/summer style for both men and women.


親密的親膚時刻只管向寬鬆舒適Say Yes! 

PRADA 2021春夏大秀以雙創意總監的方式登場,Miuccia Prada與二月宣佈加入品牌團隊的Raf Simons成為了時尚圈萬眾矚目的焦點,Raf Simons也將自己個人經歷抽象表達在其中,除了將不必要的裝飾除去,一切化繁為簡外,其中以服裝圍繞身體,以手握緊的形式最為突出,像是裹著棉被一樣既寬鬆又舒適自在,傳達一種人與生俱來的手勢以感性抽象的思想轉譯成為服裝的結構,創造出Raf Simons獨有的感性氛圍。而FENDI也以大V領放鬆了肩頸的緊繃感受,像是剛睡醒般的清晨,偌大衣領露出鎖骨與大面肌膚。另外,LOUIS VUITTON 將服裝輪廓線條變的圓潤,落肩和Over Size的大衣設計散發出優雅的慵懶氣息。

Moments Of Intimacy, Say Yes! To Loose Comfort

The 2021 spring/summer show from PRADA featured 2 creative directors. Miuccia Prada attracted the attention of the fashion world in February when he announced that Raf Simons would be joining PRADA. Raf Simons created an atmosphere based on his unique sensitivities by expressing his own abstract experiences; in addition to removing unnecessary adornments in a return to simplicity, one of his most outstanding designs was of a piece that wrapped around the body in the form of a tight-fisted hand. It exhibited a level of comfort similar to being wrapped in a loose blanket, conveying a sensuous hand gesture through abstract ideas to form the structure of clothing. On the other hand, FENDI incorporated large V-necks that unburdened the shoulders and exposed large areas of the collar bone to mimic that just-got-out-of-bed in the morning look. Meanwhile, LOUIS VUITTON softened the contours of their clothing by designing oversized drop shoulder coats that exude an elegant listlessness.


低飽和的沉著大自然化做色彩想像

在現實承受了太多的灰暗後,春夏大秀揮別了灰頭土臉的過去,不約而同的以色彩表現向嶄新的未來前進。將刺眼跳躍的高飽和亮色系轉變為繽紛且舒服的低飽和度色彩,以沉著的大自然化做色彩想像,增加了明度的天藍、鵝黃、淺綠和粉色調做調和,融合了絲緞等冰涼的材質折射出水波光紋的柔和流動感並帶出清新舒適的視覺效果。HUGO BOSS以無限的蔚藍搭配上優雅的輕音樂,像是森林精靈又像水精靈般清新自然,讓人看的心曠神怡。PRADA則是將設計脈絡中重要的三角Logo與絲緞光的單一色系元素,成為此系列中的識別象徵。

Imagining Of Low Saturation Natural Colors

Spring and summer shows have bid farewell to the darkness and shadows of reality and have all coincidentally expressed themselves through colors in moving forward. Harsh, bright, and saturated colors that pop have been replaced by comfortable and low saturation colors. Color has been reimagined using natural palettes mixed with hues such as azure, canary yellow, light greens, and pastels; when combined with cool materials such as satin silk, the refracted light and soft sense of flow results in a fresh and comforting visual effect. The HUGO BOSS show featured boundless azure with soft and elegant music in a show that seemed to feature faeries from the forests and lakes, leaving the audience feeling refreshed. In contrast, PRADA combined their triangular logo’s key designs with the monogram color elements of satin silk to create the identity of their series.


白色與狀色對比玩轉

2021春夏系列注入了許多乾淨聖潔的白,以居家生活化為靈感,如同漂浮在身上的雲朵又或是舒適的床單和桌巾等,與亞麻布料、棉布、羽毛、皮草及鳧絨被共譜浪漫,呈現空靈唯美的視覺享受。Fendi秀場以清新的白色窗簾在微風中輕快地飄動,服裝以全絲硬緞、刺繡薄紗層層堆疊,可以欣賞到繁複作工外,也讓人享受在那優雅恬靜的美感當中。

對比於純淨的白,帶點低飽和度的狀色風格更是為春夏系列加入了活潑生機,像是對比的藍和橘、白色與桃色又或是黃色與亮紅色,共同譜出和諧的色彩樂章,是淡雅風格抑或是大膽個性,2021春夏等著大家自由揮灑畫筆。

Playful Contrast Of White And Colors

Spring/summer 2021 collections have injected the purity of white into their inspirations based on lifestyles in the home using materials such as linen, cotton, feathers, fur, and velvet intertwined with clouds on the body or comfortable bedsheets and tablecloths to create ethereal and beautiful visuals. FENDI ‘s show featured white drapes fluttering to a light breeze while their collection featured hard satins and layers of embroidery and silk. In addition to being able to enjoy their complicated craft, the designs immersed audience members in their elegant and tranquil aesthetics.

In contrast to the purity of white, some low saturation colors also injected life into the spring/summer collections. Contrasting colors such as blue and orange, white and peach, or yellow and red worked together in a harmonious symphony of colors. Whether elegant or bold, the styles of spring/summer 2021 is up to one’s creativity.

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