FASHION

無性別時尚 Genderless Fashion

2021秋冬男裝大秀Fall 2021 Menswear

「想穿什麼,就穿什麼。」時尚沒有性別之分,多元訴求與中性風格在時尚這個無限循環中佔了一大部分,如同女性的英氣般,透射出男性瀟灑的氣勢,同時具有陰柔的魅力和王子般的少年感。也猶如近期相當受歡迎的男星Timothée Chalamet,以他那文藝少年之氣息,獨特的纖瘦身材,王子般的棕色捲髮和帶有陰柔氣質的時尚品味和魅力,讓他成為了時尚圈的新寵。在近月的2021秋冬男裝大秀中,男裝出現了更多柔美、女性的元素,除了GUCCI 、Burberry與Balenciaga等品牌宣布合併男女時裝秀外,依然可以在秋冬時裝週中發現男裝的自由無性別時尚。

“Wear what you want” because fashion is not defined by gender. All the diverse appeals and unisex style had become a big part of the fashion cycle. The feminine heroic spirit not only reflects the patriarchal carefree nature, but also embodies a tender charm and the youthfulness of a prince. Like Timothée Chalamet, who had become a fashion icon with his artsy aesthetics, lean posture and prince-like brown curls, and his refined taste and allure—all of which making him the industry’s new favorite. In the recent FW21 menswear collection, we notice elements of gentle femininity added to the usual masculine designs. Besides brands such as GUCCI, Burberry, and Balenciaga who announced a mixed gender fashion show, we can still see how menswear had transcended into a free, unisex fashion in the FW21 season.

衝擊感官

繼去年年初Prada宣布Raf Simons與Miuccia Prada共同擔任創意總監,由兩位頂尖設計師的嶄新組合,並在 2021春夏女裝發表了第一場共同大秀。在2021秋冬男裝週中,Raf Simons回歸於他最擅長的男裝舞台,果然不負眾望,成為討論度最高的一場空前大作。即便是數位直播的方式呈現,我們依然可以看到細節上Raf Simons在玩味符號以及統一識別的新花樣,像是每套造型背後的三角形編織,以及手套包,都是貫穿於整場秀的重複識別。另外,這次也強調觸感的需求,服裝緊緊抓住身體並吸引人們觸碰,模特兒們藉由貼身的提花針織,以親密接觸為基礎,顯露出原有身體的形狀,勾勒出動感的視覺曲線,讓這些模特兒自由的展現自由、不拘束的形體,顏色上大膽的以色塊和撞色風格製造出多重感官世界。

The Clash of Senses

Ever since Prada’s announcement of having Raf Simmons and Miuccia Prada both as the brand’s artistic director last year, the era-defining union presented their debut women’s fashion show for SS21. Now arriving at SS21 men’s fashion week, Simons returns to menswear which he’s the best at, and of course, the show becomes the biggest anticipation of the year. Though presented through digital platforms, we still get the chance to witness how Simons plays with the archival Prada graphics—the iconic triangle logo adorned every piece, the creative glove-purse—and creates this unified identification for the label. The new collection also emphasizes “the sensual touch” with tight-fitted tailoring that recreates the feeling of a warm embrace Through the dynamic visualization, the models are able to express with no restraints or limitations, allowing the bold color blocks and clashing shades to create a world of layered sensory.

文化觀光客

LOUIS VUITTON 男裝創意總監 Virgil Abloh 的自帶話題量帶給了他掌聲同時也夾雜著很多的批評,就在近月推出的2021秋冬男裝系列,Virgil Abloh像是強勢回歸般,席捲了所有人的眼球,以一名文化觀光客,包含了藝術家、銷售員、建築師、漂流者等人的原型作為出發點,靈感源自 James Baldwin 著於 1953 年的論文《Stranger in the Village》,並打破對於角色的既定框架。包含了蘇格蘭傳統格紋花呢裙裝和拖地大衣像是沿地散開般的禮服,在正式與慵懶感之間取捨 ; 其中 Virgil加入了以父母親家鄉迦納的非洲文化,以當地的服裝以及布料構思並與科技感做結合,翻玩各種傳統既定價值觀以及概念。另外,此次更是聘用了跨性別身份的模特兒Kai Isaiah-Jamal ,讓整場秀中不只是在服裝上強調打破既定觀點更是將多元文化徹底展現。

A Cultural Tourist

Virgil Abloh had been the talk of the town ever since he was pointed as LOUIS VUITTON’s menswear creative director. His high profile meant not only public praisal, but also criticism and judgement. However, Abloh still comes back with the newest FW21 men’s collection that captures everyone’s attention. Inspired by James Baldwin’s 1953 essay, “Stranger in the Village,” he aims to investigate the quotidian archetypes—including the artist, the salesman, the architect, the drifter, and more—and to unsettle the stereotype that comes with each role. With the Scottish tartans and dramatically elongated coats that trail on the floor, Abloh strikes a balance between formal and comfortable attire. Perhaps his most autobiographical yet, he pays homage to his African heritage by combining Ghanaian clothing designs with modernity—a creative exploration of traditional values and concepts. Meanwhile, Abloh also invites Black transexual model, Kai Isaiah-Jamal, that not only proves fashion’s potential to unsettle stereotypical thinking, but also fully expresses the diversity of cultures.

完美融合

在 Silvia Venturini FENDI 帶領下的 FENDI 展現了更多元面相的柔性面貌,包含了前幾季的女裝系列以家中閨房以及舒適感受做為主軸,讓女性以最為舒適的姿態走上伸展台。而 FENDI 2021秋冬男裝也沿用了舒適感受,並與特有的玩心結合,在整個系列當中,可以看到猶如老奶奶風格般的柔軟棉襖式腰帶大衣,以及近年秋冬相當受歡迎的針織毛衣綁在領口,FENDI也以趣味的方式讓袖子與針織毛衣一體成型 ; 針織的慵懶米白連身吊帶褲與收腰式的灰色Car Coat收腰大衣都讓FENDI秋冬男裝增添了女性柔軟的獨特韻味,加上潮流玩味的秀場設計,完整地結合多元風格並將完整視覺融合於一體,讓人置身於豐富的幻彩饗宴。

The Perfect Blend   

Under Silvia Venturini FENDI’s lead, FENDI begins to express a diversity of soft features. In its previous women’s fashion show, the label used loungewear and homey comfort as the key inspiration, aiming to let women walk on stage in their most comfortable state. FENDI’s SS21 menswear continues the same central theme and combines it with this special playfulness. In the new collection, we see the soft, cotton-padded coat and the trending style of tying your knitted sweater around the shoulders with the sleeves and the sweater itself weaved into one piece, adding a bit of fun to the popular look. The cozy white jumpsuit styled with a fitted grey car coat, a remarkable merge of both genders. With the creative and upbeat venue design, FENDI’s SS21 men’s collection combines all the features into one, complete visual presentation that immerses the audience in this colorful, psychedelic celebration.

書中時裝秀

Loewe創意總監Jonathan Anderson從藝術家 Joe Brainard的拼貼作品得到靈感,並宣布2021秋冬男女裝系列以概念方式「Show in a Book」發布,書套內為一本200頁的精裝書冊,像是翻開一本有手感溫度的紙張,細膩凸顯了秋冬男裝的重點以及細節,例如採用拼貼風格中的解構、顛覆以及重組,T恤和毛衣如一變三,帶有頹廢龐克的綁縛式皮褲以及超大寬褲等等,重塑了男性傳統價值觀中的服裝文化,更是利用了Joe Brainard 彩色拼貼作品Untitled⟫當中盛開的三色堇花朵作為整系列的符碼。另外,擅長利用可愛動物形體創作皮件的 Jonathan Anderson也將兔子耳朵置於皮件腰帶以及袖口上,繽紛童趣的塑形點綴於慵懶風格的大衣外套,更加帶有陰柔氣質的調皮中性韻味和玩味藝術。

A Show in a Book

With the innovative artist Joe Brainard’s collages as his key inspiration, Jonathan Anderson, Loewe’s artistic director, announces that he will be presenting FW21 women’s and men’s collection through the concept of “A Show in a Book.” Recreating the sensation of flipping through an actual book, the 200 page bound book highlights the collection’s focus and details. Deconstruct, mix and match, and then reassemble—the nature of a collage diversifies the presentation of t-shirts and sweaters and even reshapes the traditional men’s style with buckled leather pants and tent-shaped culottes. Anderson also pays homage to the artist by making Brainard’s pansy—immortalised in his colorful collage, “Untitled”—a recurring motif throughout the whole collection. Meanwhile, an expert in transforming animal shapes into adorable leather accessories, Anderson incorporates rabbit ears onto leather belts and cuffs and adorns cozy long coats with dashingly fun features—creating a gender neutral style with a touch of playfulness and feminine temperament.

年代錯視

Dior男裝創意總監Kim Jones由陽剛的華貴典禮束裝汲取靈感,並與當代傳奇畫家 Peter Doig 設計,Peter Doig 特別為此合作設計兩款動物圖案,包括迪奧先生的愛犬 Bobby以及獅子。以豐富明亮的色彩,如柔和沉靜的藍、淡紫紅、迪奧灰以及象徵法式生活樂趣的亮黃色、橙色打造一幅幅栩栩如生的時尚畫作。另外,暈染漸層以及透視、撞色、滾邊的巴洛克風格刺繡都讓這季的男裝風格更顯藝術風情,彷彿置身於美好年代下,那激盪著文學、超現實藝術、精緻美學的文化氛圍,甚至是帶有西班牙夜晚風情的浪漫與不羈,讓人一步步走進現代與復古融合的視覺饗宴。

A Vintage Modernity

Drawing inspiration from a mixture of military style and gilded embroidery, Kim Jones, creative director of Dior men, collaborates with Trinidad-based artist, Peter Doig, to create a vision of lavish masculinity. Exclusive for the FW21 collection, the artist designed two animalistic emblems—Mr. Christian Dior’s beloved pet, Bobby, and a lion from one of his own paintings. With the gentle blue, lavender blush, Dior grey, and the bright yellow symbolizing the joys of the French lifestyle—these vivid, chromatic colors paint an array of true-to-life masterpieces. Gradient shades, see through garments, color clash, and Baroque trims, all together adds a touch of artistic aesthetic to the menswear collection. Like going back to Belle Époque, immerse in the cultural ambience of literature, surrealism, and the exquisite aesthetics, or enter the free-spirited, romantic Spanish night inviting us to set foot into the visual feast of a vintage modernity.

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