FASHION

秋冬時裝週趨勢 | 輪廓變奏曲 A Variation of Silhouettes

今年秋冬是一場華麗的輪廓變奏曲,在各個鮮明輪廓的大衣、外套上,完美詮釋出視覺張力。

TRANSLATOR | Eugenia Yang

份量感輪廓 Carry the Weight

LOEWE 秋冬女裝則是直接將 圓弧的肩袖立體放大,圓潤 的廓形像是戲劇化般。

今年秋冬是一場華麗的輪廓變奏曲,在各個鮮明輪廓的大衣、外套上,完美詮釋出視覺張力, 例如 LOUIS VUITTON 在 2021 秋冬女裝大秀與義大利藝術家飾品牌 FORNASETTI 合作,像是回朔希臘羅馬文化全盛時期一般,既有復古時期的輪廓美感,又帶入創意總監 Nicolas Ghesquière 擅長的未來感,穿梭在交錯的時空,以寬大的肩線輪廓和圓弧繭形製造出浮誇、強而有力的衝擊效果。在搭配上不僅僅是搭配褲裝,還可以搭配篷裙、貼身皮裙、花苞裙等等。而 LOEWE秋冬女裝則是直接將圓弧的肩袖立體放大,圓潤的廓形像是戲劇化般,這季的服裝絕對會帶起今年秋冬的份量感輪廓熱潮。

This year’s autumn and winter season is a splendid variation of silhouettes. The visual tension is perfectly expressed by the coats and jackets tailored with a strong contour. For its FW21 womenswear collection, LOUIS VUITTON collaborated with Italian atelier FORNASETTI to take us back to the golden era of Ancient Greece and Rome—an aesthetic beauty of the retro infused with the futuristic sense of creative director Nicolas Ghesquière. As we shuttle through the changing time and space, the broad shoulder lines and the exaggerated cocoon shape together create a grandiose, impactful clash. It can be styled not only with trousers and pants, but also with tulle, leather, tulip skirts, and more. Meanwhile, LOEWE’s FW21 womenswear collection decided to magnify the arc-shaped sleeves that dramatize their round shape— a perfect exemplification of this autumn and winter season’s craze for exaggerated tailoring design.

俐落 A 字型 The Sleek A-Line

A 字型輪廓也是秋冬相當常見的搭配方式,可以保留纖細的肩線,更可以露出腿部線條。披肩、斗篷和 A 字型洋裝都有不同的視覺美感。Valentino 以俐落的剪裁塑造出一系列短身服飾,勾勒出感性浪漫的衝突效果,短外套和外套化為小斗篷, 加上視覺強烈的格紋,將女性幹練與性感交織而成;長型的斗篷以硬挺的線條宛如暗夜中的神秘龐德女郎,柔軟的紗洋裝瞬間化身為飄逸女伶。Dior 在 2021 秋冬系列以暗黑、詭譎的童話故事創造衝突感,紅色花呢格紋取材 Dior典藏中的玫瑰圖騰,令人聯想到創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 鍾愛的經典童話故事《美女與野獸》,Maria 以童年回憶,將她女性敏感與感性的自覺,揮灑魔法於衣裳。

The A-line design is also a very common style for the autumn and winter season that not only maintains the slender shoulder line, but also emphasizes the shape of the leg. Shawls, ponchos, and A-line dresses all have different visual aesthetics. With an array of neatly tailored and cropped outfits, Valentino outlined a clashing of the sensual and romantic. The cropped jackets become small ponchos with the addition of impressionistic plaid patterns, a perfect mixture of female professional and sexy. With the stiff lines, the long ponchos turn the wearer into the mysterious Bond Girl and the soft gauze dresses become an embodiment of an elegant ballerina. Meanwhile, in its FW21 collection, Dior created a conflicting sense by offering the dark and treacherous fairy tales. The red tweed pattern drew inspiration from Dior’s archive of rose totems that reminded us of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s favorite, “Beauty and the Beast.” Reminiscing her childhood memories, Chiuri magically transformed her female sensitivity and sensible consciousness into her collection of different clothing designs.

肌膚線條感 All About the Figure

緊貼著身形,模特們緩緩邁出自信步伐,針織布料、鏤空蕾絲和薄紗跟著身形在腳步中搖曳著,從春夏輕盈、飄逸的面料轉變為針織與更多精緻刺繡,搭配上較成穩的秋冬配色、在絲襪和靴款的點綴下,創造出秋冬的從容和優雅,也像是第二層皮膚般兼具散發質感魅力的身材線條與女性自然浪漫,每套都讓人目不轉睛,也再次讓人沈浸在所謂美到心坎裡的氛圍。

Wearing fabrics fitted to show their figure, the models walk with confidence while the knitted fabrics, hollowed-out lace, and tulle sway along with their footsteps. Changing from the light, flowy garments of spring and summer to the more delicate embroidery, the fabrics are now painted with mature shades of fall. With the embellishment of stockings and boots, the calmness and elegance of autumn and winter are thus created. The close- fitting fabrics hug the body like a second layer of skin that enhances the charm of the body figure and radiates with a naturally feminine romance. Each look is eye-catching and allows us to indulge in this beauty that stems from the heart.

毛絨女孩 Girl in the Fur Coat

宛如回到經典輝煌的20 年代,一根煙管、一件毛絨皮草,華奢的配飾,在紙醉金迷的夜晚緩緩淹沒在斑斕的場景中,追求著極致的經典同樣也成就了高級時裝的輝煌高峰。現今環保意識提高,也越來越多時尚品牌加入了友善環境的行列,以更人道及永續的方式代替。今年秋冬,毛絨的風潮像是極速回歸般,並加入了這幾季當道的流蘇元素,不僅僅是大衣,像是靴款、包款也同樣注入厚實又溫暖的毛料,看來今年秋冬是個既鬆軟又浮誇的毛絨世界。

Like returning to the glory of the Roaring Twenties with a pipe in hand, a fur coat on, and the adornment of luxurious accessories, the drunken night of gold gradually sinks into the bedazzling scenes. This pursuit of the ultimate classic also achieves the glorious peak of Haute Couture fashion week. With the increased awareness of environmental protection, more and more fashion brands have decided to join the environmental friendly movement by using more humane and sustainable methods. This autumn and winter season, plush is once again back in style, along with elements of fringe, an all-time favorite that lasted several seasons. Coats, boots, and bags all incorporated with thick and warm wool, turning this upcoming season into a world of fluff and flamboyance.

再進化 Next Step, Evolution

全新 Fendi First 包款首秀,將首字母 F 植入手拿包的框架中,以羊絨、皮革及珍稀材質製作。

變奏曲套用在秋冬包款上可以說是在合適不過了。在經典中注入了一點小變化,重新詮釋出經典包款的非凡韻味,煥然一新的效果讓人眼前為之一亮。這季帶入了更多的實用性與創意,例如 Fendi 經典代表性包款 Baguette 以雙肩背的姿態亮相,新的角度與比例詮釋經典包款 Peekaboo,全新 Fendi First 包款首秀,將首字母 F 植入手拿包的框架中,以羊絨、皮革及珍稀材質製作。另外 LOUIS VUITTON 則是注入了實用性, 更多的拉鍊口袋與今年必備的半月包型 (HOBO) 結合 ; 和與義大利藝術家飾品牌 FORNASETTI 合作的圖畫放入經典包款當中。Valentino 放大版的 Rockstud 鉚釘都為下半年加入了靈活、活潑的生命力。

Comparing variations in music to autumn and winter bags is perhaps the most suitable metaphor. Just by tweaking it a little, the classic bag types are reinterpreted, the brand new features refreshing people’s minds. With a new focus on practicality and creativity, Fendi’s iconic Baguette is reimagined with double straps that can be worn as a backpack and the classic Peekaboo is redesigned with a new angle and proportion. On top of that, the Italian brand also introduced “the new pouch in town,” Fendi First, that features an F-shaped clasp closure and is made with special materials like teddy bear shearling and snakeskin. On the other hand, not only did LOUIS VUITTON direct their focus to practicality with more zipper pockets and this year’s must-have—the half-moon HOBO bag—the brand also transferred the collaborated artwork with Italian atelier FORNASETTI on to classic bags to establish something new. Even Valentino’s exaggerated rockstuds is a new statement, injecting the second half of 2021 with flexibility and vitality.

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