TRANSLATOR | Eugenia Yang
科技 X 時尚秀
Dolce & Gabbana 2021 秋冬系列就將「不看往過去，只有一路往前衝」的精神在本季發揮的淋漓盡致，秀上加入了未來人工智慧，開場由和 IIT 合作的機器人與頭髮染的五顏六色模特兒在數碼世界的背景音樂下磅礴登場，看的觀眾好不過癮，完美將未來科技元素毫不保留的展現，像是訴說著在艱困的疫情下，誰管得了那麼多， 100% 的視覺衝擊，就是要你看的迷茫雜亂卻又目不轉睛。Balenciaga 2021 秋冬則是直接以超現實的虛擬電玩遊戲打造了一個 2031 年後的未來國度，身穿著看似當代的服飾卻又極具未來感的科技時尚，如此瘋狂的未來感受，絕對讓科幻迷們燃燒上癮。
Technology x Fashion Shows
Perhaps the reason sci-fi films are so charming is because it not only takes us on an unknown journey to the future, but also ignites our imagination by turning the impossible into the possible. Like the special outfits inspired by technology, these futuristic looks are becoming a trend that people yearn for. Dolce & Gabbana’s FW21 collection followed the motto of “let bygones be bygones, forward is the only way” by adding elements of artificial intelligence. The show began with the IIT robots and models with colorful hair entering the world of the digital—it was for sure a blast for the audience. The way the label perfectly expressed the futuristic elements without holding back was like sending a message: why should we care so much in a hard time like this? It’s like a visual collision on full force that is made to confuse the mind and but also catch our attention. Meanwhile, Balenciaga’s FW21 collection presented a surreal video game set in the future realm of 2031, featuring models wearing contemporary clothing with a dash of other-worldly, futuristic elements. Such a crazy interpretation of the future is definitely going to make sci- fi fans completely obsessed.
線上數位大秀 The Digital Shows
時尚源自於生活，由於疫情的影響讓時裝週的實體辦秀轉變為線上數位大秀，起初面對疫情的衝擊做改變到現在以數位靈活形式帶來更多的創意與跳脫傳統的創造力，再次證明了時尚是在經過多次磨練後，以更耀眼的方式重生。打破以往四大城市時裝週的制式化地點，2021秋冬大秀在不同的地方注入了更加跳耀式的理念與元素，Chanel 本季打破了以往在巴黎大皇宮辦秀的做法，將秀場選址於 Castel 俱樂部，那具有歷史底蘊的沙龍組合空間，就像是一場有著旋轉樓梯、 吧台、狂歡氣息般的淑女之夜; Dior則是將大秀舉辦在巴黎凡爾賽宮鏡廳(Galerie des Glaces)，以童話故事為靈感概念，在充滿神秘詭譎氣氛的色調鏡頭下展演了 64 套全新作品 ; MiuMiu 2021 秋冬女裝系列跑到了冰天凍地的山間雪地，打造出如夢似幻般的「Miu Miu 雪地俱樂部」 ，並透過獨特的展現方式，嚴峻挑戰勇氣及決心於影片中完整呈現。
Fashion stems from everyday life. Due to the pandemic, fashion shows have all shifted from in person runaways to online presentations. Initially, these changes were made to adjust to the current situation. Now, brands are utilizing the digital platform to bring more creativity that breaks the mold of tradition. Once again, this only proves that fashion is capable of being reimagined, even after all the harsh challenges. Used to be hosted in the four major cities only, the FW21 Fashion Week is added with different concepts and elements now that everything is digital. This season, for the first time, Chanel took Fashion Week to Club Castel, unraveling Lady’s Night at a compound salon rich in history with its spiral staircases, bar, and a wildly charming atmosphere. Inspired by childhood fairytales, Dior hosted its show at the Galerie des Glaces at Palace of Versailles in Paris and presented 64 brand new looks through the lens of mystery and eccentricity. Meanwhile, Miu Miu brought its FW21 womenswear collection up to the slopes to present a dream-like Winter Wonderland. And through a distinctive presentation, we got to see the label’s boldness and determination fully expressed in the concept film.
科技環保面料Technologically Sustainable Material
老佛爺曾經說到「時尚不能與科技脫節，時尚必須結合現代科技，應用在布料或其他什麼都好。此外，我們現在使用的布料，比起 60 年代最潮又最新奇的用布好上 100 倍，有機會可以去摸摸看 60 年代的衣服，你會發現質料很糟。」現在， 我們的時尚更需要結合科技與永續環保，Prada 2021 秋冬男、 女裝系列數位時裝秀包含秀場材料都在秀後回收再利用，而 Re-Nylon 系列則是全面以再生尼龍製成，透過收集世界各地海洋和堆填區的塑膠廢料、漁網和紡織纖維廢料，透過循環再造和淨化後製造而成。看回國內，在 2021 秋冬台北時裝週 開跑，以「永續時尚開展秀」作為開幕大秀，如 #DAMUR 加 入升級再造(upcycling)概念，專注在 2nd value chain 織品再生價值鏈的應用與發展;oqLiq 以廢棄牡蠣殼及回收寶特瓶，透過高溫與奈米技術處理，抽絲成紗，兼具保暖、透氣等功能。環保科技面料的產生，都是人們想藉助科技打造真正安全與環保，一方面減少對環境的污染，也為為服裝產業乃至時尚行業帶來新的變革。
“We couldn’t do without it. Fashion has to use everything that’s going on in modern technology; if not material or whatever…the materials we have today are 100 times better than the modest materials that were sold as modern and interesting in the 60s. If you touch the clothes of the 60s, they were horrible.” Nowadays, fashion needs technology even more to achieve sustainability. For its FW21 collection of both genders, Prada made sure to recycle all materials used for its digital shows for future use. The label’s Re-Nylon series uses only regenerated nylon. Plastic wastes, fishing nets, and textile wastes were collected from all around the world, redeveloped, and purified to be used again. In the meantime, FW21 Taipei Fashion Week started with the “Sustainable Fashion Show” as the opening. Upgrading with the concept of upcycling, #DAMUR focused on application and development of fabrics of the second value chain. In a similar fashion, oqLiq redeveloped unwanted oyster shells and plastic bottles through high temperature and nano-technology into materials that are both warming and refreshing. The uprising of environmentally friendly fabrics stemmed from our desire to establish real safety and sustainability. This way, not only can we reduce environmental pollution, but we can also bring effective change to the fashion industry to make it better.
科技時尚與社群 Digital Fashion and Social Media
由於電商的崛起，許多品牌都將主力放在了數位媒體與 Social Media 的運用，在社群網站上將單品大量曝光，造成爆款炫風，品牌也推出了商品結合了科技，像是手機殼、Air Pods 保護殼、電腦公事包、與生活3C產品結合的裝飾小物。另外，GUCCI 與通訊軟體 LINE做結合，推出了 GUCCI 作品中備受喜愛的貓咪貼圖，並結合了多款台灣元素的可愛造型以及 GUCCI BELOVED 系列中為人熟知的經典作品。反之，也有品牌反其道而行，Bottega Veneta 竟一夜刪掉了 Instagram、Facebook 等社群平台官方帳號，隔日造成了時尚圈與媒體的熱烈討論，這樣的做法或許也是 一種提高聲量的方式。說到最後，時尚與生活之間密不可分，時尚致力的不過就是點綴了普遍生活的一部分，提升生活的精緻度與增添了生活中的儀式感，科技與數位的應用與崛起究竟是好是壞，我們也無需著墨，時尚的本質就是利用影響力，利用服飾作品傳達更多價值觀。
With the rise of the digital age, many brands turn to online stores and social media for the launch of their latest collections and products, which almost always drives this insane traffic online. It is also not uncommon for them to incorporate technology into their merchandise, such as phone cases, AirPods cases, laptop totes, decorative delicacies, and more. GUCCI even collaborated with communication software LINE to launch a collection of stickers inspired by the label’s beloved cat character, while incorporating elements of Taiwan and the icons of the GUCCI BELOVED series. On the other hand, some brands decided to take the opposite approach and went off the grid. It was definitely a surprise when Bottega Veneta deleted their Instagram and Facebook accounts, which immediately became the center of attention among the fashion and media industries. In the end, fashion and our everyday life are inseparable. What fashion really does is simply embellish the quotidian, increase the quality of life, and add a sense of ritual to the daily routines. To try to distinguish the rising application of the digital as a pro or con is not something we need to dwell on. Because the essence of fashion is more about influence and how we can transcend the clothing into a medium that conveys important values and ideas.