LUXURY

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2021鐘錶與奇蹟

前身為日內瓦高級鐘錶展(SIHH),在2020年更名為Watches and Wonders Geneva(鐘錶與奇蹟),因疫情原因更為在日內瓦舉行線上錶展,並致力於向數字化展覽轉型,全新的名字,全新的形式,以及一個全球性的概念,這場大型的高級鐘錶展將以數字與實體互融的全新姿態,打響名身浩蕩的第一槍。時尚研究報告發現,疫情發生後富裕消費者更願意投資高級珠寶和機械腕表,而不是手袋、成衣等大眾奢侈品。

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

Previously known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, SIHH introduced its new concept with a new name, Watches and Wonders Geneva, in 2020. In the wake of the pandemic, the convention took place online and continued to work towards becoming a digital exhibition. Recently, an online fashion research report found that, instead of handbags and ready-to-wear clothings, wealthy consumers are actually more willing to invest in High Jewelry and mechanical watches. Back with a new name, a new form, and a new global concept, this large scale Haute Horlogerie is reimagined with the integration of the numeric and the physical and will take its big swing at gaining international recognition.

BVLGARI重現甜蜜

如今,最新珠寶腕錶不僅歌頌色彩,更以細膩巧妙的設計讓珍貴寶石由內而外綻放光芒,新款腕錶以饒富興味與大膽創新的手法組合璀璨寶石,再度展現出「彩寶藝術大師」的匠心獨運,絕對是女性愛不釋手的日常配件。

深受這段羅馬的黃金年代影響,柔美嫵媚、奇趣活潑、熱愛生命、活在當下。如此吸引人的生活美學,充滿義式風尚的珍貴珠寶與腕錶,將寶格麗鍾愛的「甜蜜生活La Dolce Vita」精神完整體現。品牌深受歡迎的Divas’ Dream系列最新推出2款Divissima珠寶腕錶,分別有滿鑽款以及鑽石與祖母綠款,尺寸較之前作品小巧,因此更易於配戴,也為珠寶腕錶開創全新樣貌。8顆明亮切割祖母綠鑲嵌於鑽石漣漪之中,完美襯托中間光澤細緻的珍珠母貝錶盤。滿鑽版則以波光瀲灩的鑽石圍繞雪花式密鑲錶盤。最外圈扇形元素以8顆明亮切割鑽石點綴其中,再搭配黑色鱷魚皮錶帶,完美體現羅馬的優雅大器風格。

改款設計的Allegra 腕錶讓人感受到甜蜜生活時期那段流金歲月中的享樂主義,也承襲寶格麗珠寶腕錶的無畏精神。2021新作的Divissima 和 Allegra 珠寶腕錶,玩轉珍貴寶石與繽紛色彩,搭配經典雋永的設計,為腕間細緻點綴獨特魅力,堪稱珠寶腕錶的最佳首選。

BVLGARI Allegra系列玫瑰金彩寶腕錶,參考定價NT$896,000。BVLGARI Allegra collection rose gold jewelry watch, recommended price NT$896,000.

BVLGARI Reimagining Delight

Nowadays, jewelry watches not only celebrate colors, but also make sure the precious gemstones shine from within with an impeccable design. Setting the gems with playful, innovative, but bold styles, the latest wrist watches from BVLGARI once again demonstrate the ingenuity of being the “Maestro del Colore,” which will definitely become a lady’s all-time favorite accessory. 

Inspired by the golden age of Rome, the new Divissima watch is femine and flirtatious, whimsical and vivacious, and lives by the motto Carpe Diem. Channeling such a charming living aesthetic, the precious gemstones and wrist watches are full of the Italian spirit and exemplify the essence of BVLGARI’s “La Dolce Vita.”A smaller and easier to-wear version of the iconic Diva’s Dream model, the new Divissima watch is available in two styles—the full diamond set and the diamond and emerald version. Eight brilliant-cut emeralds are inlaid in an array of diamonds that perfectly echo with the delicately crafted mother-of-pearl dial. On the other hand, the full-set version offers a snow-set pavé dial encircled by gleaming diamonds. BVLGARI’s famous fan-shaped motif is embellished with eight brilliant cut diamonds and completed with a black crocodile leather strap—a perfect embodiment of Rome’s grandiose elegance .  

The redesigned Allegra not only captures the sweet, joyful spirit of La Dolce Vita, but also inherits BVLGARI’s dauntless nature. Playing around with the exquisite gems, dashing colors, and the timeless designs, the new Divissima and Allegra watches add a touch of enchantment to the wrist, making them the best choice for jewelry watches.

(右)BVLGARI Divissima系列祖母綠與鑽石珠寶腕錶,參考定價NT$1,912,000。BVLGARI Divissima collection emerald and diamond watch, recommended price NT$1,912,000.

Cartier再造經典

揮灑靈動創意與精湛工藝,Cartier頂級珠寶與製錶這兩個專業領域融合為一,一面是華麗寶石與卓越的珠寶工藝,而另一面則是精湛的製錶工藝與精密結構。今年,卡地亞大師工藝工作坊採用嫻熟近乎失傳的精湛工藝「內填琺瑯」,推出Panthère Songeuse美洲豹腕錶新穎之作。美洲豹作品款式豐富、造型多元,亦可相互搭配,反映品牌的無限創意,時而以珠寶雕塑形式呈現於珍貴腕錶,時而化身為守衛者,精確俐落的線條,有如設計師的筆觸,設計視野與目標兼容並蓄,造就昇華藝術文化的腕錶傑作。

而在Cartier Libre系列中,標誌性腕錶與動物王國的奇珍異獸相互結合,Baignoire/Tortue、Tortue/Serpent:珍貴經典雙元素腕錶就此誕生。說起Ballon Bleu系列則推出全新40毫米尺寸,鍊帶款搭配符合人體工學的專屬快拆功能鍊帶,為卡地亞經典元素增添新意。無論是Tank、Santos、Panthère美洲豹還是Ballon Bleu系列,所有腕錶均遵循四大設計原則:簡潔線條、精確造型、和諧比例和對細節的堅持。

Tank Must 腕錶,靈感源自 Tank Louis Cartier 腕錶,其率先採用光電機芯及非動物材質錶帶,履行卡地亞對環境和生物多樣性的承諾。Inspired by Tank Louis Cartier watch, the Tank Must is powered by a quartz movement, and paired with non-animal made straps.

Cartier Recreating Classics

With great creativity and impeccable craftsmanship, Cartier combines its two domains of excellence: the exquisite gemstone artistry and the meticulously professional watchmaking. This year, Cartier’s artisans adopted the Champlevé Enamel, a rare technique that was almost lost, and introduced the new Panthère Songeuse wrist watch collection. The luxury brand introduced an array of jaguar-inspired watches that are rich in style and designs and can be matched with one another. Reflecting the brands infinite creativity, the pieces become a representative of gemstone sculpting and reincarnate into guards embodying precise and clear cut lines. Like a manifesto of the designer’s brushstrokes, the collection showcases the vision and aspiration of the creator, which eventually becomes a sublimation of art and culture. 

Cartier debuted its latest Cartier Libre duo—the Baignoire Turtle and the Torture Serpent—which combined the label’s iconic wrist watches with the enchanting creatures of the animal kingdom. Meanwhile, the Ballon Bleu introduced its latest 40mm model that incorporated a functional quick-change system, allowing the wearer to change the straps easily through the addition of innovation to the classic elements. Whether it’s the Tank, Santos, Panthère, or the Ballon Bleu series, the wrist watches all follow the four major design principles: minimal lines, precise shapes, harmonious proportions, and a strong endearment for details.  

(左)揮灑靈動創意 ,Cartier Libre 系列腕錶中,標誌性腕錶與動物王國的奇珍異獸相互結合。Extremely creative, Cartier Libre collection combines its iconic watches with the beautiful creatures of the animal kingdom. 

(右)今年,卡地亞大師工藝工作坊採用嫻熟近乎失傳的精湛工藝–內填琺瑯,推出 Panthère Songeuse美洲豹腕錶新穎之作。This year, Cartier’s artisans adopted the Champlevé Enamel, a rare technique that was almost lost, and introduced the new Panthère Songeuse wrist watch collection.

Chopard璀璨星辰

全新IMPERIALE月相腕錶點綴閃爍的珍貴寶石,造型精緻的珠寶腕錶,錶盤全部採用砂金石打造,精緻細膩的砂金石佈滿點點星光,北半球五個主要星座的圖案綴於其上。蕭邦自動上鏈機械機芯Chopard 96.25-C和自動月相功能融於一體,突顯鐘錶的高複雜功能。在月相兩側,點綴著大熊座、小熊座、仙后座、仙王座和天龍座的圖案,與夜間閃耀的數十顆鑽石相呼應。IMPERIALE月相時計的錶盤由兩塊藍色砂金石玻璃組成,也稱為金石,其特有的閃爍內含物引人矚目。

這一失傳的工藝源於意大利穆拉諾島,相傳一位玻璃吹製師意外地將鐵砂和銅摻入熔融玻璃中。冷卻後,玻璃呈現閃爍的反射效果,獨特光芒令人聯想到夜晚地星辰。錶盤的深藍色澤與鑽石的璀璨光芒,令IMPERIALE月相腕錶散發細膩美感,帶有星座圖案的砂金石玻璃錶盤為此腕錶增添亮點。

蕭邦IMPERIALE Moonphase系列形象圖。Chopard IMPERIALE Moonphase collection.

Chopard’s Starry Night 

Intricately designed, the brand new IMPERIALE Moonphase models are embellished with precious gemstones, with dials made of aventurine glass to mimic the starry night sky, and adorned with the five major constellations of the Northern Hemisphere. Chopard’s in-house made 96.25-C movement with automatic winding is combined with astronomical accuracy, a testification of the excellent, highly functional features of the watches. On both sides of the moon phases, we see the embellishments of Ursa Major, Ursa Minor, Cassiopeia, Cepheus, and Draco, echoing the diamonds that shine like the gleaming stars in the night sky. The IMPERIALE Moonphase dial is made of two blue aventurine glass, also known as goldstone, that is renowned for its typical sparkling inclusions and spangles. 

This long-lost technique originated from Murano, Italy. Legend has it that a glassmaking artisan accidentally dropped iron and copper filings into the molten glass he was working on. Once cooled, the molten glass revealed this shimmering reflection that was so unique, it resembled the beautiful night sky. The dark blue shine of the dial, the glistening sparks of the diamonds, the aventurine glass adorned with beautiful constellations—everything made the IMPERIALE Moonphase wrist watch radiate with this delicate aesthetic that belongs to Chopard, and Chopard only.

(左)蕭邦IMPERIALE Moonphase系列腕錶,18K白金腕錶,鑲嵌總重3克拉鑽石,砂金石玻璃月相顯示盤,砂金石玻璃星座錶盤 。Chopard IMPERIALE Moonphase collection, 18K white gold watch set with diamonds of 3 carats and an aventurine glass dial.

(右)Chopard 96.25-C型自動上鏈機械機芯,由蕭邦鐘錶工作坊製作,並獲瑞士官方天文台精密時計認證(COSC),確保提供長達65小時動力儲存。Chopard 96.25-C model with automatic winding, astronomical accuracy, a power reserve of 65 hours, and the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certification.

Louis Vuitton 走出新意

全球最大奢侈品牌Louis Vuitton正在尋求更大的增長動力,繼去年發力高端珠寶後,今年首次參加Watches and Wonders錶展,推出全新機械腕表Tambour Carpe Diem。「我們的目的是不落俗套。」路易威登鐘錶工坊製錶大師Michel Navas表示,Tambour Carpe Diem腕錶花了兩年時間研發後,才加入路易威登的鐘錶系列,想讓「活動人偶」複雜功能腕錶展現世代對21世紀的看法,詮釋著品牌自2002年開始製錶以來秉持的前瞻能量與創意。

一開始,活動人偶複雜功能是用來在教堂鐘樓上敲鐘報時的自動機械。製錶匠將這種機械縮小放在腕錶上,功能就變得非常裝飾性,為錶盤增添趣味,而時間還是由傳統的指針指示。現在,Tambour Carpe Diem腕錶上,報時是隨佩戴者心意的。要知道時間,只要按下錶殼右側的爬蟲型按鈕。錶盤中央的蛇會抬頭,露出位於骷髏頭額頭上的孔,告知小時,而響尾蛇的尾巴則會震盪指出位於儲備動力沙漏下方的分鐘。

骷髏的眼睛是路易威登的經典花紋,同時下巴會露出嘲諷的笑容,浮現「Carpe Diem」字樣,也就是「把握這一天」的含意,這句話來自於詩人賀拉斯,鼓勵大家盡量利用流逝的每一天。這個令人目不暇給的奇觀,持續16秒鐘,而蛇與骷髏以驚人的和諧移動,更令人印象深刻,這款獨特的腕錶雖然複雜,卻十分易讀,無與倫比。

全新Tambour Carpe Dieme 工藝圖。The brand new Tambour Carpe Dieme.

Louis Vuitton’s Start of Something New 

Following its launch of High Jewelry last year, Louis Vuitton continued seeking growth. The world’s largest luxury brand joined Watches and Wonders for the first time and introduced its brand new Tambour Carpe Diem model. “Our aim was to get off the beaten track,” said Michel Navas, Master Watchmaker at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The latest model took two years of technical development to finally join the Louis Vuitton wrist watch collection. Taking two years of technical development before joining the Louis Vuitton watch series, the latest model strives “to bring to the jacquemart [the label’s] vision of the 21st century with all the energy and creativity characteristic of [the] brand since it began producing watches in 2002.”

Originally, the jacquemart was an automata created to strike the hours on church bell towers. Throughout the years, many watchmakers had minimized these mechanics and transferred them onto watches. While the functional had become decorative and fun, the indication of time was still dependent on the traditional watch system. Now, with the Tambour Carpe Diem model, the indication of time is totally dependent on the wearer. To read time, simply press the reptile-shaped button on the right side of the case. The snake’s head in the center lifts, revealing the hour aperture located on the forehead of the skull. Meanwhile, the rattlesnake tail oscillates and reveals the minute mark positioned below the power reserve hourglass. 

While the eyes of the skull make way for Louis Vuitton’s Monogram Flowers, the skull’s jaw displays a mocking laugh and shows the phrase “Carpe Diem,” meaning seize the day. Originated from Roman poet Horace’s odes, it encourages us to make the most out of every second of life. This whole eye-catching spectacle lasts for 16 minutes, in which the serpent and the skull move with astonishing harmony. An impressive timepiece, the unique model may strike as complex. Yet, it is surprisingly easy to navigate and is, with no doubt, a creation that is one of a kind. 

(左)結合獨家高端製錶技術以及顛覆性的虛空派畫風,路易威登以Tambour Carpe Diem腕錶展現了相得益彰又妙趣橫生的藝術。Combining exclusive watchmaking skills and the unprecedented Vanitas-styled drawings, Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem watch demonstrates what playful art means.

(右)以精準到不可思議的手法雕刻黃金,骷髏頭、響尾蛇、沙漏在路易威登花紋永恆的現代感襯托下更為突出。Crafted with extreme precision, the skull, rattle snake, and hourglass shine under Louis Vuitto’s timeless modernity.

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