TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
“Less is More.”–德國建築師路德維希·密斯·凡德羅 Ludwig Mies van der Rohe 。
從 2018 年英國頂尖時裝設計師 Phoebe Philo 辭去 Céline 創意總監一職，造成當時的 Céline 迷一陣哀鴻片野，Phoebe Philo 過往輝煌的極簡風格備受推崇，甚至擁有最懂女人的設計師稱號。如今在眾所期盼下，攜手精品集團龍頭 LVMH 並宣布將以同名時裝品牌「Phoebe Philo」回歸時尚圈！
消息一釋出，可以看到社群中排山倒海擁戴與期待的貼文內容，相信她的回歸，勢必會再造成一股極簡、冷淡風潮，甚至會是以注重環保的「慢時尚」為設計主軸也說不定。 而極簡主義在近年來也沒有因為 Phoebe Philo 的離開而消失，火熱的程度甚至蔓延至電商平台與社群網站，在電商分類區可以看到The minimalist edit 專屬系列，社群網站擁有69萬追蹤者的帳號 @minimalstreetstyle ，又或是潮人們推崇的膠囊衣櫥（capsule wardrobe），留下經典與簡單的單品做搭配，投資一件能穿上10年之久的好單品。
編輯在這邊推薦五家獨特風格的極簡設計品牌，簡約的幹練感，立體剪裁和中性色調，極簡美學包含布料的質感、剪裁份量感、甚至是飾品的搭配。而對於服裝的選擇，其最在乎的必然是「舒適度」，不管是居家或穿著，極簡都崇尚自然與自在，沒有繁複多餘的設計就是簡單又實穿。前 Hermès 愛馬仕創意總監 Christophe Lemaire 推出的品牌 Lemaire ，以慵懶卻不失個性的純色、層次感來提升質感，剪裁優雅又冷淡簡單，完全就是 Christophe Lemaire 與妻子 Sarah Linh Tran 的愛情寫照，將舒適的法式風格融合於他們的愛情，化成一股時尚清流。 Christophe Lemaire 也曾經說道「獨立品牌美妙的地方，就是可以維持著你的哲學。」以耐久的服飾延續著擁有溫度的設計，我想這件就是所謂服裝的詩意吧。
低調至極的 Olsen 姐妹以實力說話，紐約簡約時尚品牌 The Row 幕後推手就是主演知名電影《 放電紐約 New York Minute》與知名電視劇《天生一對》的童星姐妹檔Ashley Olsen與Mary-Kate Olsen，即便小的時候曾經也是跟隨著龐克、90年代主流風潮，但憑藉著她們的時尚敏銳度於2006年成立品牌The Row ，以舒適的渴望為設計終旨，在極簡的外表包裝下隱藏的是材質堅持，像是高級羊絨、白蘭地皮革等，為女士打造一生必備衣櫥。另一個堅持則是於宣傳手法上相當低調，從來都不靠明星的知名度打造品牌，廣告、折扣、活動也極少，證明著好的產品，自然會被注意，像是傑森史塔森 Jason Statham 超模老婆 Rosie Huntington 就不只一次公開對 The Row的熱愛，從她的私服與平常的穿搭就可以看出迷戀著極簡時尚的魅力。
極簡控不能不知道的 Jil Sander 美學，被譽為現代簡約美學宗師的 Jil Sander 曾經於 2017 年接受訪問時說道她的時裝比起極簡更是純粹（pure），應該是說那些看似極簡的服裝下，隱藏著剪裁複雜又耗時的功夫，強調自己並非極簡主義的她，只想讓自己的設計變得純粹，以黑白灰與大地色系為基底的色調，以搭配層次感提升整體質感，視覺上互相襯托且凸顯個人氣質，像是高級毛料搭配西裝外套，或是搭配針織衫。我們可以看到這些極簡品牌都有著對於剪裁和服裝面料極緻的要求與堅持，而每一種美學也都有屬於自己品牌獨有的特色與味道，像是紐約現代時尚品牌 Theory 簡約摩登，講就舒適性與功能性。而擁有隨性休閒感的Club Monaco 呈現的又是極簡風格的另一種味道 ，將休閒結合簡約，更加符合一般日常OL的生活態度，以幹練和低飽和色的柔和質感創造優雅，洋裝上使用不同緊密的織法營造出自然的細波紋，針織服裝結合著網紗材質，在極簡的路上也能展現更多不同的模樣欣賞。 最後，還是期待著 Phoebe Philo的時髦回歸，祝福她更不受束縛的揮灑屬於她的極簡天下。
When Phoebe Philo stepped down from her position as Céline’s creative director, it shocked her fans globally. Philo had always been known for her minimalist style and was even named as the designer who understood women the most. And now, returning to the fashion industry with great news, Philo will be heading up her own independent fashion house “Phoebe Philo” with a minority backing from luxury conglomerate LVMH. The internet went viral as soon as her statement was released. In response to Philo’s return, this global excitement will surely inspire another craze over her minimalist style, perhaps even with a new focus on sustainable fashion. Meanwhile, the minimalist trend did not disappear with Philo’s temporary leave. It had slowly spread to social media and various online luxury fashion retail platforms. We even see platforms dedicating a separate category to the minimalist edit, Instagram accounts such as @minimalstreetstyle with over 693K followers, or the idea of creating a capsule wardrobe that has become many’s favorite. By investing in a good quality accessory that can be worn for over ten years, we will be left with only the most classic and simple pieces.
With its three-dimensional tailoring, neutral color tones, texture of the fabrics, and even the matching of accessories, the minimalist style speaks for itself with its simplicity and capability. And of course, comfort is also a necessity. Whether it’s loungewear or regular clothing, minimalism advocates nature and freedom. Without any over-complicated or redundant design, the garments are made to be simple and practical. Founded by former Hermès creative director Christophe Lemaire, the Lemaire brand offers a style that is sophisticated, eminently modular and crafted with fabrics selected for their quality. Like a perfect manifesto of the love shared between Christophe Lemaire and his wife Sarah-Linh Tran, the brand establishes a timeless Parisian style that personifies fashion minimalism. “The beauty of individual brands is that you get to hold on to your philosophy.” By bringing designs with warmth through timeless, functional pieces, this is perhaps the poetic beauty of clothing.
Established in 2006 and based in New York, The Row is founded by the stars of New York Minute and It Takes Two, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, who initially didn’t want their names associated with the brand and wanted to let their clothes speak for themselves. With a piercing sense of fashion, the Olsen twins created the brand in the desire to find a commonality in fit and attitude. Underneath the minimalist design is their persistence towards material, The Row uses top-notch materials like premium cashmere and cognac leather, all in the hopes of establishing a wardrobe that is simple but necessary. As mentioned earlier, the Olsen twins did not want their fame to affect the brand, which is why the brand didn’t focus much on advertisements or special discounts. Nonetheless, The Row still gathered many loyal fans along the way, including Jason Statham’s supermodel wife, Rosie Huntington, who is a huge fan of the brand’s minimalist charm and beauty and also proof that good quality merchandise will receive the attention it deserves naturally.
With Quiet Modesty
Known as the “Queen of Less,” designer Jil Sander once said in a 2017 interview that her designs are more pure than minimal. Underneath all the simple designs actually hides the complex tailoring and more pure than minimal. Underneath all the simple designs actually hides the complex tailoring and time-consuming craftsmanship. Emphasizing that she is not a minimalist, Jil Sander simply wants her design to be pure. By matching earth tones with colors like black, white and grey, the sense of layers is heightened to bring out the quality of the clothing. By using premium wool fabrics on blazers and sweaters, the visuals bring out the sobriety and elegance in women. What all these minimalist brands have in common is their persistence in tailoring and fabrics, while each label still having its own distinctive quality and taste in design.
For instance, Theory, a New York-based contemporary brand, is best known for comfort and functionality. Meanwhile, Club Monaco’s approach is simple and clean. By combining casual and minimal, the brand offers business women and office ladies a new way of life. The low-saturated colors create this soft and sophisticated elegance, while different weaving patterns bring out a more natural look. The label is also known to combine different materials––for example, knitwear with mesh or chiffon––to produce a variety of different outfits that fits any occasion. Lastly, in anticipation for Phoebe Philo’s grand return, we offer our blessing that she will continue to design with no restraints in this new era of minimalism.