FASHION

經典回歸X異碰撞 | On Clashes and Classics

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

傳統的美學中饒富著歷史底蘊與傳承工藝,同時也為百年品牌屋的核心價值。在現今求新求變,提倡快速且新資訊量龐大的現代文化當中,有人追求過去的慢與永恆,而有些人讚揚新科技新世界。有些時候只為抓住一個點,一個創新的結合讓看似兩個極端的時間軸能夠交互重疊,傳統工藝與風格美感在新的材質、新的結合與新的品牌相互融合,玩轉出一套屬於現代追求與過去暫停的交織文化。

Rich in historical heritage and craftsmanship, the traditional aesthetics is also the core value of all the century-old fashion houses. Today, everything is about innovation and versatility. Some praise the new technology and a brave new world, while some hold on to the past and a slow-paced continuity. And yet, if we are able to find a middle ground, where the two seemingly opposite values can come together as one, we will come to the realization that traditional craftsmanship can be reinterpreted through new materials, combinations and brands, a perfect fusion of the past and the present.

當代希臘女神

雅典,是西方文明與藝術的搖籃。也是許多時尚創意總監的靈感泉源,迪奧先生於 1951 年帕德嫩神殿遺址前的高級訂製服作品成為了 Dior 2022 早春度假系列的創意起源,輕盈的女神式袍裝形塑空靈飄逸和明暗競逐間的流動感,而腳上卻踩著一雙混搭著運動風格單品的球鞋與高根運動型靴款,追求古典美學不忘反應當代女性活躍的生活方式。時空跳躍於新舊時空當中,遊走在古典與自由之間,也為精緻工藝與學術致敬。2022早春系列包款配件全新推出Dior Bobby East West 斜背包、今夏席捲時尚熱潮的 Lady Dior micro微型提包系列推出漆皮版本、經典法式印花以金線刺繡或漸層效果重塑於Book 托特包,重塑時尚經典外,締造現代Dior奇蹟。

潮流世代

潮流文化與傳統時裝屋的結合及遍不是第一次看到了,但當潮流大膽顛覆百年品牌,那種看似文化與背景迥異,兩個極端體的結合,代表的不只是兩個文化,更是一場挑戰著兩種世界與設計態度的全新感受。舉例 Louis Vuitton 男裝藝術總監 Virgil Abloh 和 Givenchy 新任創意總監Matthew M Williams 無一不是在為經典時裝屋注入創新與潮流,更是為激盪出不同的火花而吸引年輕族群與提升大眾的喜愛度。潮流圈中坐穩「潮流教父寶座的男人」藤原浩率領的 Fragment Design 在潮流圈的狂熱度直爆表,至今與許多球鞋品牌如 Nike、Jordan Brand、Converse、Red Wings 等有過無數次的合作,而每雙聯名鞋履無一不震撼鞋圈,甚至是與Maserati 推出限量車款,即可看出現今說到時尚不可不關注潮流。

意大利高級時裝屋 Loro Piana 與日本藝術家藤原浩於近日攜手合作推出中性風設計膠囊系列,融合街頭潮流與 Loro Piana 精緻優雅的代表性面料,並且全系列限量發售。在這個結合中為愛好者提供一個令人注目且與眾不同的新體驗。 系列重點有「Tsunaghi」鎖鏈圖案的幾何設計,圖案有著雙重意義:在日本文化中象徵幸福和互動交流。而在其中更是象徵著兩個世界的連結和融合:日本的傳統文化與意大利於細節上的完美追求。

而藤原浩與盟可睞Moncler的合作系列中,藤原浩將實用功能及神秘標語,與品牌精湛工藝巧妙結合,帶來低調卻充滿隱秘驚喜的作品。 此系列以黑色為基調,造型層次分明,並兼具出眾與實用性。像是飛行員夾克、羽絨服、工裝夾克和一系列延承藤原浩本人街頭風格的外套,女裝部分搭配羽絨服的絎縫半裙、上半身絎縫設計的連衣裙,和借鑒自男款廓形的帥氣外套。而此系列分為兩批發售,第二批7 MONCLER FRGMT HIROSHI FUJIWARA 2021系列則將街頭風格置於皚皚雪山之巔,將藤原浩設計美學應用於更多冬日單品。 

異材質科技風格

復古趨勢與未來風潮於今為兩種併行趨勢,在追求極致復古風格時,科技潮流也從來沒有衰退過,科幻與科技像是激發想像力與創造力一般,將不可能成為可能。同時也應證了時尚傳奇人物老佛爺說過的話「時尚不能與科技脫節,時尚必須結合現代科技,應用在布料或其他什麼的都好。」在疫情的爆發下也讓更多品牌重新正視了永續議題,環保材質的興起也讓科技風格不僅僅只是表象的軀殼,更是能夠將理念傳達給人們。PRADA山嶺主題系列兼具實穿性與現代格調,汲取機能服裝設計與運動細節設計,靈感源自於機能背心,功能性細節如金屬扣重塑柔美格紋Re-Nylon 再生尼龍洋裝。

Salvatore Ferragamo 秋冬系列則是飛躍未來,塑造全新時尚潮流。品牌創意總監 Paul Andrew 從科幻電影中的無盡自由概念和品牌技術創新傳承中吸取靈感,展望未來並構建全新時尚願景。 Paul Andrew 說道:「千禧年前的經典科幻電影《千鈞一髮 Gattaca》、《直到世界盡頭 Until The End Of The World》及《黑客帝國 The Matrix》對現今影響深遠,過去對未來的想像塑造了我們的今天。」甚至是將科幻風格結合了可持續性與環境保護,聚酯纖維長裙採用可回收二手材料製成、鞋底材質選用經認證的可回收的橡膠材質等等,終極目標來減少時尚資源消耗。

Modern Greek Goddess 

Athens, the cradle of Western civilization and art, is also the source of inspiration for many fashion creative directors. Just like how Christian Dior’s 1951 Haute Couture show that took place in front of the Parthenon inspired the Dior Cruise 2022 Collection. Ethereal and light, the traditional goddess gown, or peplum, is styled with athleisure elements and sneakers, a new lifestyle that combines classic beauty with modern femininity. As the old and the new are morphed into one, the show also pays tribute to the exquisite craftsmanship and academics. The latest Dior Cruise collection introduces new accessories such as the Dior Bobby East West shoulder bag, a new Lady Dior micro bag in patent leather, Book tote bags in Toile de Jouy and gold embroidery, creating another Dior miracle through the reimagination of iconic classics. 

Trend Report 

It is not our first time seeing streetwear brands collaborating with fashion houses. But when we see such a clashing of cultures and backgrounds, the combination of two extremes no longer represents two different entities, but becomes a new experience that challenges our perception of fashion. For instance, both Louis Vuitton’s menswear creative director Virgil Abloh and Givenchy’s new creative director Mathew M Williams had become experts at bringing innovative trends together with classics. Known as the godfather of streetwear, Hiroshi Fujiwara took Fragment Design to a brand new level by working with sneaker brands like Nike, Jordan Brand, Converse and Red Wings and even launched a limited edition car with Maserati. 

MONCLER ADV CAMPAIGN FW21

This year, Italian luxury brand Loro Piana teams up with Fujiwara to launch a debut capsule collection. Featuring an array of gender fluid garments, the limited series redefines modern street style with a timeless elegance. Each piece draws inspiration from the designer’s Japanese heritage, while the ancient Tsunaghi print is incorporated into knit items. Symbolizing happiness and interactive communication, it also perfectly combines traditional Japanese values and Italy’s strive for perfection. 

Back with another collaboration with Moncler, Fujiwara cleverly combines functionality and the brand’s impeccable craftsmanship to present a series of understated works but filled with surprises. Using black as its base tone, the looks are full of layers, while maintaining technicality. From lightweight bombers, puffers to workwear jackets, the collection also extends to womenswear with a quilted skirt, a dress with a quilted top and outerwear inspired by the men’s range. The initial drop of 7 MONCLER FRGMT HIROSHI FUJIWARA 2021 once again takes streetwear fashion to its extreme while uniting decades of Moncler outdoor wear expertise with Fujiwara’s exceptional taste. 

When Technology Meets Fashion 

As we pursue the ultimate vintage style, the technological trend has never disappeared. Inspiring imagination and creativity, technology makes the impossible possible. Like Karl Lagerfield once said, “Fashion has to use everything that’s going on in modern technology; if not material or whatever. If not, it would be something from another area.” In the wake of the pandemic, fashion brands are placing more emphasis on sustainability, allowing the technological style to become more of just an appearance. For instance, PRADA Outdoor Mountain is dedicated to functionality and modernity. Inspired by nature, the clothing design incorporates athleisure and offers details like metal buckles and environmentally friendly materials like Re-Nylon. 

Meanwhile, Salvatore Ferragamo’s Fall-Winter collection is reinterpreting fashion by taking us to the future. Drawing inspiration from Sci-Fi movies and the house’s advanced technology, creative director Paul Andrew stated, “Pre-millennial sci-fi classics Gattaca, Until The End Of The World, and The Matrix were all cinematic influences – past imaginings of the future that have shaped today.” Adapting methods of production that are more sustainable, the collection includes a polyester dress made from recycled plastics and soles of shoes made from responsibly-sourced, recycled rubber material—a commitment to effectively avoid virgin material production. 

 

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