LIFESTYLE

專為美學誕生:濟安鮨 | A Theory of Art : Jiansushi

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

五彩斑斕的金屬銅線,編織出千絲萬縷的海底情深,幽暗深淵中光影變幻流轉,伴隨療癒曲目與牆面水母投影的自適悠遊,一場引人入勝的舌尖之旅即將展開。以日本直送的新鮮為饕客淬煉華美日料,錯落有致的八十刀雕功,為料理長劉濟安(濟安師)對自身的卓越堅持,不僅追求細緻口感與味蕾躍動,對美學有獨到見解的他,體現了將食材融入藝術、藝術昇華料理之精髓,秉著一本初衷,潛心打造專為美而生的「濟安鮨」。

The colorful copper wires represent the inextricable depth of the ocean, while the changing lights and shadows, the soothing melody, along with the jellyfish projection welcome us to embark on a delicious journey. Using fresh ingredients delivered straight from Japan and his impeccable knife skills, Chef Jian is persistent about his own excellence. Not only pursuing the delicacy of the taste, but also showing his understanding towards art, he incorporates ingredients with aesthetics. A mutual sublimation, together Chef Jian takes his work to the next level, devoting himself to creating a theory of art—Jiansushi. 

濟安鮨 料理長劉濟安(濟安師)

三十年日料師傅魂 

座落東區繁華街頭,由粗獷水泥模與日本傳統燒杉所構築的低調入口,恰好呼應濟安師內斂謙遜的性格。歷經名氣響亮的七都里、新都里、野壽司磨練後,期間更赴上海、北京、日本習藝,本著懷石料理的根,扎下板前握壽司的厚實基本功,眨眼間,一晃而過便是三十年。一路堅持走到現今,濟安師表示「興趣」是一大關鍵,即使三十年來,休息的日子寥落可數,卻從未感到倦怠。每當站上料理台、握起刺身刀,皆是一場精益求精的美學演出,其專心致志的炙熱雙眸,掩藏不住深刻骨子裡的日料師傅魂。  

當味蕾與藝術激盪

走進濟安鮨,如踏入美術館般自在靜謐。採用與故宮南院同級的投射燈,方能襯托由彩漆銅線構成的《非平凡扭結》系列作品,出自新銳藝術家洪郁雯之手,每件創作皆是獨一無二的存在,巧妙呼應濟安師手中特有的壽司溫度。「橫看成嶺側成峰,遠近高低各不同」,在濟安師眼中,爛漫迴圈好似怡然自得的魚尾巴,恣意遨遊蔚藍深海,也鎖住鮮嫩於嘴裡奔放游弋。由抹茶摩那本餅皮、野生大間黑鮪魚、北海道馬糞海膽、日本蝦肉末、日式醬瓜及紫蘇花組成的「豪華版最中餅」,為店內不可錯過的極致珍味。

新銳藝術家洪郁雯 作品
抹茶摩那本餅皮、野生大間黑鮪魚、北海道馬糞海膽、日本蝦肉末、日式醬瓜及紫蘇花組成的「豪華版最中餅」

從一而終職人精神 

以「築、墨、鑄、影」四大元素闡述由外而內的空間設計,也象徵著四種套餐的命名緣起,為不同客群打造各具意趣的珍饈體驗。提及店內的杯盤器皿,為濟安鮨巧妙銜接意境與佳餚的一大亮點,來自濟安師數十年收藏的名家之作,尤其鍾愛日本岡山備前燒的斑駁紋路,把玩盛盤間感知古物的質樸底蘊。誠如濟安師所言,人生就像店內的隱藏版菜單「軍艦壽司」,躍進嘴裡超乎預期的餡料使人驚嘆連連,恰如未來的際遇無法掌握,他選擇恪守從一而終的職人精神,以「堅持」與「初心」淡然面對生命更迭的每分每刻。

當季秋刀魚
日本岡山備前燒的斑駁紋路,把玩盛盤間感知古物的質樸底蘊。

Thirty Years of Craft 

Hidden amidst the bustling streets of Taipei’s East District, Jiansushi’s understated entrance is built with rough, masculine concrete and traditional Yakisugi, a perfect alignment with Chef Jian’s humble personality. After working at several famous restaurants—Shintori, Nanatori, Yesushi—he traveled to Shanghai, Beijing and Japan to take his culinary skills to the next level and truly  master the art of sushi. With his background in kaiseki, Chef Jian was able to acquire the skills needed for an itamae easily. In the blink of an eye, thirty years have passed and he believed passion is the key to his perseverance. Eyes beaming with a burning passion, he said that despite rarely having days off for the past thirty years, he never felt tired. Every time he picks up his sashimi bōchō and takes his place in front of the cooking station, Chef Jian is ready for a performance that strives for perfection, and perfection only. 

When Taste and Art Unite 

Walking into Jiansushi is like entering an art museum. Not only using projectors with the same level as that of the Southern Branch of the National Palace Museum, the interior also displays works from artist Julia Hung’s collection, An Unusual Knot. Every single piece is one of a kind, just like the sushi dishes created by Chef Jian. The temperature of each sushi made is so on point that it’s simply unable to be replicated. To him, the romantic curves swerve like a fish’s tail swimming freely in the deep blue ocean, while the tastes bloom with freshness as if we are directly enjoying the vitality of life. Consisting of wild Oma Tuna, Hokkaido Bafun Uni, minced Japanese shrimp, pickled cucumber and shiso flower, the most luxurious Monaka is filled with the freshest, most luxurious ingredients, an ultimate delicacy that cannot be missed. 

春子鯛

With Absolute Determination 

The four main elements—architecture, paint, casting, shadow—illustrate the indoor and outdoor décor of Jiansushi. They also symbolize the four different set menus offered that will satisfy all kinds of customers. Perfectly connecting delicacy and artistic concept, the tableware used in the restaurant are the chef’s decades of beloved collection, with the Bizen plates from Okayama, Japan being his favorite. Like Chef Jian said, life is like the Gunkan-Maki, which is on Jiansushi’s secret menu; the delicious fillings dance in the mouth and surprise our senses the same way our future encounters can never be predicted correctly. Withholding absolute determination, he continues to take on life with persistence, passion and a heart that never forgets. 

妹妹背著洋娃娃 北海道牡丹蝦+富山白蝦

【濟安鮨】 
地址:台北市大安區敦化南路一段161巷72號
訂位專線:02-8771 3066

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