LIFESTYLE

氤氳下的侘寂哲學:貓梅齋 The Philosophy of Wabi-Sabi: MAO-MEI-ZHAI

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

「侘寂」一詞,起源於中國宋代道教,爾後傳入佛教禪宗。如今,它代表了一種由歲月的孤寂,而引發對自然、缺陷、簡樸美學的無垠嚮往,以曠達心境看待短暫、粗糙、無常,亦如小林師傅所云「不完美也是一種美」,饒富趣味的肺腑之言,充分貫穿於具禪意的枯山水庭院,靜觀風中彎曲滋長的香水梅,由內而外隱約透出的氤氳黃光,悄然點亮了佇立一旁的墨字招牌——貓梅齋。

The term “wabi-sabi” originated from Taoism in the Song Dynasty and was later introduced into Buddhism. Now, it represents a loneliness that inspired an appreciation towards natural imperfections and a world view centered on the total acceptance of transience and impermanence. Just like Chef Kobayashi’s belief in imperfection being a kind of beauty, it aligns with the style of the exterior—the Zen-inspired courtyard, the wavering water jasmine, the faint yellow light from the restaurant itself quietly illuminates the sign: MAO-MEI-ZHAI Unadon. 

香水梅駐足店外一景

望梅止渴 賓至如歸   

「貓愛吃魚,來到了一個望梅止渴的屋舍」,這便是貓梅齋的取名由來,著重意象化呈現的小林師傅,將核心精神濃縮於當代藝術家曾冠榮的貓背水墨畫,引領觀者用「心」會意箇中趣味。一體成型的 L 型日式檯前,搭配柔和溫煦的燈光,營造賓至如歸的融洽氛圍,包廂拉門設計則汲取自小林師傅的「哈密瓜」奇想,光影交織重疊下,曖曖內含光的鳳凰羽毛石牆為場域捎來一絲沈穩氣息。

Home From Home 

“Cats love to eat fish so they come to a house full of plums to quench their thirst,” this is where the name MAO-MEI-ZHAI came from. Emphasizing on imagery, Chef Kobayashi infuses his core beliefs into contemporary artist Guan Rong Tseng’s ink wash paintings, inviting viewers to understand the fun with their heart. Under the soft, warm light, the L-shaped table front creates a welcoming dining ambience. Interestingly, the sliding door designs of each booth are inspired by Chef Kobayashi’s creative take on cantaloupes. Through the light and shadows, the phoenix feather-like stone wall settles down the tone by adding a touch of calmness to the atmosphere. 

昏黃燈光,打造溫暖用餐環境。
包廂拉門設計汲取自小林師傅的「哈密瓜」奇想,光影交織重疊感受。
包廂拉門設計汲取自小林師傅的「哈密瓜」奇想,光影交織重疊感受。

嚴選新鰻 銷魂追憶

香水梅的新芽分支,意味衣缽的傳承。主打「鰻魚料理」與「串燒」品項的貓梅齋,由小林師傅旗下的三位學徒:店長范寧淳、料理長洪宗澤與料理長王柏雄全權接手,為日料注入青春活力,相對親民好下手的價格,也讓眾多食客大為讚嘆。每日選用約330克一尾的新鰻,推出「蒲燒鰻魚飯」與「白燒鰻魚」兩大招牌品項,極其考驗蒸烤過後的鰻魚本質與炭火下的外酥內嫩,藉半熟蛋與蒲燒鰻魚醬汁助興,與日本長野米共組挑逗味蕾的銷魂追憶。

A Pure Ecstasy

The diverging branches of the water jasmine symbolizes the inheritance of the mantle. Mainly offering unagi dishes and yakitori, MAO-MEI-ZHAI is led by Chef Kobayashi’s three students—Keira Fan (restaurant manager), Andy Hong (head chef) and Sean Wang (head chef)—who add a youthful vitality to the restaurant. Its relatively affordable price is also another feature that amazed the guests who came to visit. Every day, young eels weighing about 330g are chosen for the two signature dishes—”Kabayaki” and “Shirayaki.” A testament of skills, the unagi is steamed and cooked over fire, creating a texture that is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Topped with an overeasy egg, drizzled with Kabayaki sauce and enjoyed with rice from Nagano, Japan, the dish teases our taste buds and reminds us of the purest joy of all times. 

蒲燒鰻魚飯、白燒鰻魚、串燒料理為主力品項。
白燒鰻魚
蒲燒鰻魚飯,黃金蛋液使人銷魂難忘。

以客為本 不忘初心  

放眼台灣日料市場,小林師傅獨有的妙語如珠與別出心裁為眾所皆知,主廚兼老闆的雙重身份下,他認為一間好的餐廳應具備「不市儈,懂得為客人著想」之特質。前陣子恰逢店內人手不足,小林師傅毅然決定休息一個月,不為開店而開店,只求盡心保留最完善的服務給每位客人,奉行「以客為本」即是他不忘初心的究極法則。提及未來規劃,小林師傅透露目前已進入新餐廳的籌備階段,當東洋和風邂逅法式美學,共煮奔騰滿溢的奢華鍋物,且看他如何再次顫動饕客味蕾、撼動食客內心的感動。

The Heart that Never Forgets 

Best known for his wit and ingenuity, Chef Kobayashi is both the chef and the owner, who believes that a good restaurant should always be considerate of its guest. A while ago, when the restaurant faced a shortage of staff, Chef Kobayashi decided to take a one month break because he wanted to make sure to provide each guest with the best high-quality service. It is his one ultimate rule: always place his customers as his top priority. Speaking of his future plans, Chef Kobayashi said that his new restaurant is now in preparation; this time, it will be a clash between oriental flavors and French aesthetics. So let us sit back, relax and be prepared, because there is no doubt he will once again touch the hearts of his guests with an array of luxurious, innovative dishes. 

貓梅齋料理長 王柏雄製作串燒一景
一體成型的 L 型日式檯前,搭配柔和溫煦的燈光。

貓梅齋 /台北市大安區大安路一段52巷5號/訂位專線:02 8772 1009

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