LIFESTYLE

熟成匠心 鮮味獨具:成海壽司 | Narumi Sushi With Ingenuity and Maturity

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

將日本料理視為一種藝術,悠遊於各類食材中不斷精進,也逐漸培養出個人料理風格,尤其著重「熟成料理」之精髓,將魚的鮮味提煉得愈發濃郁,讓食客完整體驗經七天、十天、二十天的層次韻味,入口即化的軟嫩鮮美蘊含著蔡全成師傅(阿成師傅)對食材的匠心堅持,運用新意打造淡濃交錯的日料佳餚。走訪一趟「成海壽司」,切身領略嘴裡奔騰的箇中妙趣。

Treating Japanese cuisine as a type of art, while exploring the variety of ingredients, Chef Chuan Cheng Tsai (Chef Cheng) gradually developed his personal cooking style along the way. Focusing on the essence of aged food, he is able to take the flavors to the next level, allowing customers to fully experience the different layers of umami. As the soft and delicious taste melts in our mouths, we understand Chef Cheng’s persistence when it comes to finding the right ingredient. By using innovative approaches, Narumi Sushi takes us on an adventure to fully appreciate the beauty of tastes and flavors. 

走訪一趟「成海壽司」,切身領略嘴裡奔騰的箇中妙趣。

汲取多角食學  

擁有多年中式、日料烹飪經驗,曾任職於天母國賓 YU 壽司、旬採鮨处與鮨割烹小粹等名店,阿成師傅對於食材選購、處理與保存,皆具備極高敏銳度。談起深入耕耘日料的契機,源自退伍三四年後,當時面臨中餐瓶頸的他,經友人引薦後,進而發覺日料擁有無限發揮空間,不間歇的試菜過程,從食材中汲取多角哲學、自五感裡融會無限可能,悄然寬闊了他看待人生的另一番光景。從不吝於分享烹飪技巧,阿成師傅推出的料理書籍不勝枚舉,他也透露做菜最大的樂趣在於「不斷嘗試」,即使會面臨挫敗,過程中所獲得的種種皆是靈感積累,使人驚豔的翻新口感便於此誕生。

生海膽紫蘇天婦羅
鮪魚三重奏中腹一星期熟成

細膩客製體驗  

由深色木質打造的沈穩外觀,恰好與內部裝潢形成逗趣對比,以淺色板前吧台呈現溫馨宜人,去除高級日料給人的謹慎壓迫,讓每位客人感受賓至如歸的安穩舒適,為阿成師傅經營餐廳的最大冀望。不僅體現於溫暖明亮的用餐環境,他也相當注重「客製化」需求,藉由討論菜單的過程,悉心記錄並拿捏相異喜好,為每一次的用餐締造嶄新飲食體驗,看似拘謹的外表下,展現恰如其分的細膩之心。考量近期天氣因素,他便將鱈魚磨成泥做湯,加入鱈魚白子與河豚白子,並撒上黑松露點綴視覺與香氣,一碗溫熱綿密入胃,由舌尖蔓延的鮮甜撫慰了心靈,靜謐中悄悄勾起饕客的盎然食慾。

成海壽司由深色木質打造的沈穩外觀,吧台呈現溫馨宜人。

精勤內化自身  

「好客、隨和、大方」為舊雨新知對阿成師傅的印象,對於如何形容自己,他選擇用「高標準」一詞象徵自我,也彰顯了他對餐廳環境的堅持。提及疫情的因應措施,阿成師傅表示入口處與備餐處皆加裝了負離子清淨機,以瞬間殺菌達到除味效果,也能讓食客安心品味創意美饌。身為一名日料主廚,阿成師傅認為「汲取新知」是不可缺少的精進良方,虛心學習並內化自身,方能靈活運用現有食材並玩出深意,讓賓客於汪洋大海恣意傲遊,一品饒富趣味的熟成日料饗宴,是他創立成海壽司的初衷,相信未來也將持續馳騁向前。

成海壽司 蔡全成師傅(阿成師傅)
鮪魚三重奏中腹一星期熟成

Philosophy of Diversity 

Having worked at several famous restaurants including Yu Sushi, Shun Sai Japanese Cuisine, Siao Tsuei and more, Chef Cheng acquired a high sensitivity for the selection, processing and preservation of ingredients. When asked about the moment he decided to enter the realm of Japanese cuisine, Chef Cheng said it was around three years after his military discharge. At that time, he found himself in a quandary, limited by the boundaries of Chinese cuisine. After his friend’s recommendation, Chef Cheng started exploring Japanese cookery and realized its unlimited potential. Through trials after trials, he understands the diversity of culinary techniques and the infinite possibilities brought by our senses. Never hesitant about sharing his cooking tips, Chef Cheng has published multiple cookbooks and recipes. To him, the greatest joy about cooking lies in “never stop trying.” Even in the face of setbacks, all the things he gained during the process becomes a source of inspiration that helps him create dishes with innovative approaches and surprising flavors. 

竹筴魚配醬油凍

A Customized Experience 

Narumi Sushi’s dark, calm exterior poses an interesting contrast to its interior. Stripped of the pressure of dining at high-end restaurants, the light-colored dining area creates a comfortable ambiance that reminds one of home—one of Chef Cheng’s greatest hopes when he decided to open his own restaurant. Besides creating a pleasant dining area, he also pays great attention to presenting a customized experience for his customers. Through each menu discussion, he carefully documents the feedback he receives and makes adjustments in order to bring something new to each meal, a perfect demonstration of his exceptional diligence. For example, considering recent weather change, Chef Cheng decides to combine cod puree, cod milt and pufferfish milt into his soup dish. Topped with black truffle for better aroma and visual presentation, the bowl of warm soup soothes the soul, a pleasant satisfaction to the appetite of gourmets in this cold, wet weather. 

Constant Self-Reflection 

Welcoming, easy-going and generous—these are the impressions Chef Cheng has left on old and new customers. As for how he would describe himself, he chooses “high-standard” as his answer, a testament of his persistence when it comes to creating the perfect dining environment. In response to the pandemic, ionizer air purifiers have been installed at the restaurant entrance and preparation area to achieve instant sterilization and deodorization, allowing diners to enjoy the food in a safe space. As an itamae, Chef Cheng believes the constant acquiring of new knowledge is the key to improvement. Only by learning with an open mind and absolute humility can one flexibly use the ingredients to create the most original dishes. Like taking his guests on a fun adventure to explore the realm of umami flavors, Chef Cheng never forgets the reason he started everything and continues on this journey with determination and persistence. 

甘海老配新鮮海膽醬

發表迴響

%d 位部落客按了讚: