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巷弄米其林 解構亞洲香氣 logy|A Deep Dive into Asian Flavors

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

座落台北大安區巷弄,logy 取自「meteorology(氣象學)」與「geology(地質學)」後綴詞,發音似日文「roji(路地)」,為巷弄、街道之意。斑駁不均的淺水泥牆保留日式既有的低調神秘,四個相連字母象徵亞洲大陸的人文薈萃,以在地食材兼容亞洲元素、創新手法並蓄義法風情,藉馥郁芬芳勾勒出的味蕾驚喜引領食客遨遊四方,於心之所向之處,窺探米其林二星主廚田原諒悟(Ryogo Tahara)的獨到香氣哲學。

Located amidst the streets of Taipei East District, logy draws inspiration from the suffix of “meteorology” and “geology,” with a similar pronunciation to the Japanese word “roji,” meaning alleys and streets. The dimly-lit concrete interior adds to the intriguing ambiance as the four letters encapsulate Asia’s profound dynamism. Incorporating seasonal local ingredients with Asian features while reimagining French and Italian cuisines with innovative techniques, logy surprises gourmets from all around the world with the play on taste and the olfactory. Let us follow the steps of head chef Ryogo Tahara, who had just received his second Michelin star, and understand his unique olfactory philosophy. 

logy主廚田原諒悟。
logy 座位一隅。

文化衝擊 花火綻放   

來自北海道的積丹半島,於廣闊山水的環抱下成長,使田原諒悟從小便熟悉海膽、鮑魚的新鮮滋味,也對季節流轉的自然氣息擁有高敏感度。旅居義大利四年,先後於米其林一星餐廳 La Ciau del Tornavento、二星餐廳 Torre del Saracino 學藝;2015年返回日本,進入 Florilège 擔任主廚川手寬康的左右手,因緣際會下來到了台北。憶起三年多前剛到台灣,即深切感受台日「飲食文化」的大不同,從親民巷弄小吃至高價位 Fine Dining,其價差之大也讓他開始尋思 logy 的定位。而茶碗蒸這道料理,便揉合了他對台灣的種種印象,街道上不協調的色彩、招牌、鐵窗帶來的視覺衝擊,溫潤包覆著台灣人的豐沛生命力,將細緻覺察昇華為嘴裡綻放的盛情花火。

logy主廚田原諒悟。
招牌菜「茶碗蒸」。

耕寶島 重組芬芳   

不侷限於料理呈現手法,擁有高自由度的田原諒悟,對台灣特有的「麻油」印象特別深刻,如何恰好拿捏比例,不過度破壞菜餚自身滋味,對他來說,這是個相當艱難且有趣的過程。起初為了深入了解在地食材特性,田原諒悟來台後花了兩個多月的時間環島,他表示當中最記憶猶新的氣味,是藏於台東深山裡的「山當歸」,有別於兒時所接觸的奔放海味,獨特且濃郁的草本芬芳開啟了他腦海裡的另一扇門,藉拆解相異元素、構思味道重組,將這躍動之情融入茶碗蒸中。田原諒悟也透露料理最重要的在於「香氣」,若以同一道料理舉例,柴魚、味醂讓人聯想起日本;米酒、菜脯、紹興酒代表台灣;番茄、香料則象徵著義大利。透過不同層次的香氣堆疊,試圖在所有亞洲人的共同美食記憶中,誘發每個人大腦裡的獨特片段。此刻,吃的不僅是創意佳餚,更是田原諒悟想親手傳遞的嶄新文化風貌。

Lightly cured Hokkaido oyster / Oyster foam / Crown daisy sauce / Burnt eggplant purée

目標導向 永不停歇   

回溯廚師生涯,田原諒悟打趣道自己應該活不了太久,因為他認為時間相當有限,堅守「不浪費光陰」便是他一路走來的人生信念。在每年的最後一天,他都會列出三十個大小不一的目標,若未完成則移至下年持續努力,更嚴格規定自己必須在五年內達成。秉著同樣的究極精神,體現於他每日刻意維持飢餓,只為了保有最佳味蕾與敏銳五感,切身領略顧客期待餐點的心情。提及 logy 未來經營方向,田原諒悟表示之後將規劃升級廚房設備,往精進全方位的宗旨邁進。不僅保有最初的本心,每日也不斷捫心自問:米其林二星,這樣是可以的嗎?亦如飽滿稻穗般,以謙遜姿態看待所有;亦如乘風破浪般,持篤定心志乘勢而行,未達心之所向前,他將永不停下腳步。

logy 料理團隊。

Clash of Cultures

Growing up surrounded by nature in Hokkaido’s Shakotan Peninsula, Tahara was familiar with the fresh flavors of seafood like sea urchin and abalone and acquired a high sensitivity towards the natural flavors of changing seasons. During his four year stay in Italy, Tahara set off on a decade’s journey working at various Michelin-starred restaurants, including La Ciau del Tornavento (one star) and Torre del Saracino (two stars). In 2015, he returned to Japan and joined two-Michelin-starred restaurant Florilège by working under head chef Hiroyasu Kawate. Recalling when he first arrived in Taiwan three years ago, Tahara said he immediately felt the difference between Japanese and Taiwanese culinary cultures. From street food to expensive fine dining, he also began to contemplate where logy should belong. Tahara was able to condense his impressions of Taiwan—the clashing of colors from signs on the street, the exuberant vitality of the people—into one single dish, the egg custard in beef consommé with celery sorbet, a signature dish of logy that has been on the menu since its opening, a perfect example of how Tahara is able to sublimate his careful perception into the exceptional flavors that bloom like fireworks in each customer’s mouth. 

logy head chef Ryogo Tahara.
The internal of logy.

Rearranging Flavors 

Never limited by how a dish should be presented, Tahara strives for freedom. Surprised by the distinctive flavor of Taiwanese sesame oil, he realizes the most challenging but also interesting process is finding the right balance among different ingredients without taking away their own flavors. In order to understand the characteristics of the local ingredients, Tahara spent over two months traveling around Taiwan. Among his discoveries, he found Taitung’s “Mountain Angelica” to be one of the most unique flavors he encountered. Different from the liberating flavors of the ocean in his hometown, the distinctively rich herbal scent opened up a brand new realm of sensory. By deconstructing and rearranging the flavors, Tahara was able to infuse this new discovery into his signature egg custard. To him, the olfactory is the key to designing a dish. For instance, bonito and mirin often remind us of Japan, rice wine, dried radish and Shaoxing wine represent Taiwan, while tomato and spices immediately bring Italy to mind. Through the layering of different scents, Tahara is trying to remind each of his customers of a personal moment by calling to a universal culinary memory that speaks to all Asian people. As we are enjoying the food, not only are we trying out an innovative dish, but we are also taking in a brand new cultural image personally delivered by the one and only Chef Tahara. 

Squid &celtuce salad / Buddha’s hand confit / Coconut milk whey soup / Galangal oil

Continues Striving 

Looking back at his career, Tahara teases himself and says he probably won’t live for very long because he believes time is very limited. “Never waste time” is the one truth that he holds on to all these years. On New Year’s Eve, Tahara lists out thirty different goals for the next year. If he doesn’t finish them, he adds the unfinished ones to the following year but strictly limits himself to a five-year due date. Following a similar high standard, he intentionally stays hungry everyday in order to keep his taste buds and senses sharp to better understand customers’ anticipation for the food to arrive. Speaking of logy’s future, Tahara plans on upgrading the kitchen and its equipment, while striving towards becoming a more well-rounded business. Not only staying true to himself, but he also continues to ask the question: am I doing enough for a two-Michelin-starred restaurant? With exceptional humility and absolute determination, Chef Tahara continues to strive for greatness and will never stop before he reaches total satisfaction and perfection. 

logy / 台北市大安區安和路一段109巷6號1F / 線上預訂

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