怪奇美學 | Ugly Chic

Schiaparelli 2022 春夏高訂系列。 Schiaparelli Spring 2022 Couture Collection.

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang


Fashion inspiration often stems from life. In the wake of the pandemic, comfort may have become the major trend because what is the point of purchasing high heels? Footwear that is comfortable and good for walking does deserve more attention. Due to constant social distancing and quarantine, our hidden desire to have fun is sprouting, wanting to break free like a beast being caged too long. People are yearning to be eye-catching, bizarre, colorful and free. Not only is Y2K making its comeback, but the “ugly” trend is also spreading with popularity and speed. 

巴黎世家 x Crocs  全新聯名鞋款「Pool Slide」。

也許Ugly chic 巔峰已不再,但在過了幾年的時間此風潮並沒有被瓦解,而是如小火慢燉越煨越旺。醜鞋長期以來被作為一種  Ugly chic 時尚潮流,在當醜鞋剛成為時尚趨勢之時,許多人反應時尚潮流的巨變是投資「醜」的風險,然而醜風潮在經歷過幾年的洗禮之後,「醜」似乎成為了一種反骨,做自己的新姿態潮流,「醜」似乎已經超出了階段性潮流的範疇,怪奇美學並不是一陣風,其中更是代表著切中年輕人消費者的心理機制。潮流的魅力就來自於原本覺得怪奇的事物,久看也成為一種美學,一個時代潮流的趨勢可以改變一個人的審美以及價值觀,現在 Ugly chic 無論在時尚領域或是生意場上都形成了一股不容忽視的力量。

在Dior 2022 秋冬男裝秀場上,可以看到帶有 Dior 主色調灰色刺繡的羊絨勃肯鞋驚艷亮相,與Dior 經典剪裁的Bar Suit  相得益彰,勃肯鞋的融合平衡了高級時裝帶給人的正式感,反而有著落魄貴族的慵懶與街頭風格,再次改變大家對於德國老勃肯涼鞋的認知。而此次高級時裝與勃肯鞋的合作並不是首發,在2019 年 Valentino 就曾與 Birkenstock 勃肯涼鞋推出聯名系列,此外勃肯鞋也與 Proenza Schouler、Jil Sander 和Rick  Owens合作,一件仙氣飄飄的雪紡禮服搭配上舒適感受的勃肯鞋,衝突創意的做法跳脫既往服裝搭配框架,順應著時代感變,讓時尚圈注入一股前所未有的創意混搭風潮。而奢侈鞋履品牌 Manolo Blahnik 和勃肯鞋於 2022 最新合作推出新的系列,將 Manolo Blahnik 標誌性的經典方形鑽扣、天鵝絨元素融入到勃肯鞋當中,兼具了大膽新潮與優雅。

在Dior 2022 秋冬男裝秀場上,看到帶有 Dior 主色調灰色刺繡的羊絨勃肯鞋驚艷亮相。
At Dior’s AW22 menswear show, the French fashion house collaborated with Birkenstock to create a high-fashion twist on the casual footwear, offering a new iteration in dove-gray, traditional Tokyo mule.

提到 Ugly chic 怎能不關注 Balenciaga 再度與 Crocs 的合作,Balenciaga自從 2018 年首度推出與Crocs 的聯名厚底鞋,就被譽為「史上第一醜鞋」,但這雙醜鞋的魅力就是銷售數字漂亮的離奇,而此次的再度合作更加證明了高級時裝品牌正從以往試探性、娛樂性的合作,逐漸整體靠攏的趨勢,Balenciaga 創意總監 Demna Gvasalia 總是標新立異,創造許多不同的觀點與想法,在原宇宙這個概念還沒強化形成時,Demna 就將高級時裝與虛擬遊戲結合,而在時尚秀中帶給人們美好事物啟發時,Demna 就以末日預言、工人階級打破美好藍圖,Balenciaga 也因此定型了年輕心目中的地位。甚至是增強了品牌的吸引力,在大家爭先恐後的追捧Jordan、Yeezy、Supreme同時,Balenciaga也透過限量聯名培養了忠實地追隨者,建立起高級時裝品牌與潮流品牌融合的品牌標誌。另外一個提到的則是把 Bottega Veneta 推向潮流的前創意總監 Daniel Lee,Bottega Veneta 在 2020 秋冬推出的 Paddle Boots 橡膠鞋原先被嘲笑為「兒童雨鞋」然而隨著潮流人士的推崇,身邊喜歡怪奇感、新鮮感以及前衛風格潮流人士紛紛跟上了這一波風潮,圓鼓鼓的橡膠頭搭配上一件華麗精緻剪裁的羽毛裙與羊毛西裝,前創意總監Daniel Lee以讀到眼光,確實讓 Paddle Boots 一躍要升成為熱賣的潮流先鋒。

踩著怪奇風格的鞋履可以稱作為是一種「醜」時尚,那麼在服裝方面呢?怪奇風格的時裝,我們於此華麗亮相。義大利高訂品牌 Schiaparelli 以超現實怪誕美學暢遊屬於他的奇觀宇宙,2019 年 Daniel Roseberry接手 Schiaparelli 後,創造出風靡全場的獵奇服裝,像是Bella Hadid的人與肺禮服、Chiara Ferragni 金鐘罩上衣等等,而此季 2022 春夏高訂系列靈感來源於法語中的 l’appel du vide,稱之為「虛無的呼喚」,一種希望和失望,幻想和現實對立交織的虛無情緒,一股想要脫離的衝動,在實與虛的交錯反應下達到天地之間的舒暢意念。而永遠沒有極限的 Moschino 創意總監 Jeremy Scott 於2022秋冬秀場中,再次帶給我們天馬行空的超現實想像,靈感來源於經典科幻電影《2001:太空漫遊》,借鏡電影裡的巴洛克風格房間,將浮誇動人的黃金豎琴、老爺鐘、水晶吊燈、日式屏風成為設計元素,打造如夢似幻的華麗服裝。這些怪奇的服裝不僅能夠成為全場焦點更使人會心一笑,或許我們就是需要這些有趣、打破常規的創意想像激發對於生活的熱情,醜時尚沒有對與錯,若是哪一種「醜」能夠帶給人們自信與無限熱情,那麼怪奇美學的存在也是帶給世人的解脫,視覺上的良藥。

Perhaps we have already passed the peak of the ugly chic trend, but it doesn’t mean the trend is disappearing. Instead, in recent years, it is continuing to gain popularity. Ugly shoes have always been the key player in the ugly chic fashion trend. Many believe the drastic changes in fashion trends are attributed to the investment in the unconventional. And yet, as time passes on, the visually displeasing have become a new found love, as it is a way to create a distinctive style that is like no other. From a psychological view, ugly fashion attracts attention and popularity because it’s different. The charm of these trends comes from the fact that what is originally considered as odd can become an aesthetic that changes one’s beauty standards and values. It is undeniable that “ugly chic” has become a force to be reckoned with in the fashion and business industry. 

At Dior’s AW22 menswear show, the French fashion house collaborated with Birkenstock to create a high-fashion twist on the casual footwear, offering a new iteration in dove-gray, traditional Tokyo mule. Complementing the classic Bar Suit, the practical shoe balances out the usual formality of high fashion. Bridging the gap between luxury and street style, the Birkenstock once again flipped our expectation. This collaboration with Dior is not Birkenstock’s first time working with luxury brands. Back in 2019, the German brand teamed up with Valentino to launch an exclusive collection. Later on, Proenza Schouler, Jil Sander, Rick Owens. As the chiffon gowns are paired with comfortable Birkenstocks, the unique combination breaks the barriers of convention with creativity and paves the way for more surprising collaboration in the fashion industry. Like the latest partnership between Manolo Blahnik and Birkenstock, the signature sparkling square buckles and sumptuous velvets are combined with the practical footwear, perfectly achieving boldness, trendy and elegance.  

Dior 2022 秋冬男裝系列。 Dior FW22 Men’s Fashion Show.
Dior 2022 秋冬男裝系列。 Dior FW22 Men’s Fashion Show.

Speaking of ugly fashion, how can we not mention Balenciaga’s collaboration with Crocs? Ever since the Spanish brand’s first collaboration with the American footwear brand, the platform sandals were crowned as “the ugliest shoe yet.” Despite that, the charm of these unconventional shoes were reflected in its amazing, almost unbelievable sales figures. The renewed partnership only proves that luxury fashion brands are converging on the trend of creating more experimental and entertaining collaborations. Known for his avant-garde style, Balenciaga’s creative director Demma Gvasalia has never been afraid of sharing his distinctive point of view and belief with the world. Long before the Metaverse came into the public’s eye, Gvasalia had already incorporated virtual video games into his ready-to-wear collection. When every fashion show was advocating utopian themes, he went the opposite with his dystopian, working class-oriented concepts. This is exactly why Balenciaga holds a special place in the hearts of millennials. While everyone was crazy about Jordans, Yeezys and Supreme, the Spanish fashion house had already attracted a group of loyal followers with its limited edition collaborations, establishing an array of unique brand signatures that lies in the combination of high fashion and streetwear. Similarly, under its previous creative director Daniel Lee’s leadership, Bottega Veneta introduced the Paddle Boots back in 2020. What was once teased as childish rain boots soon became a popular choice of footwear through the support of trendy influencers from all around the world. Once paired with a wool suit and a finely-tailored feather dress, the enormous boots were almost irresistible to trendsetters who are fans of visually displeasing, avant-garde or unconventional styles—all thanks to Daniel Lee’s distinctive taste that was like no other. 

Obviously, ugly fashion does not solely belong to footwear. After being appointed as the creative director in 2019, Daniel Roseberry took Schiaparelli on a journey through his surreal, avant-garde universe. His dramatic, high fashion looks included Bella Hadid’s long-sleeved dress with trompe l’oeil lungs necklace and Chiara Ferragni’s trompe l’oeil gilded bust in metalized resin. Inspired by the French saying “l’appel du vide,” meaning “the call of the void,” the SS22 Haute Couture collection touches upon the emotions of emptiness that lie in between hope and frustration, fantasy and reality. Not as hopeless as it sounds, Roseberry hopes that this spaciness can inspire the urge to break free from the void. Meanwhile, always channeling energy from his limitless imagination, Jeremy Scott once again presents his fantasy through his AW22 fashion show. Paying tribute to the classic 2001: A Space Odyssey, Scott’s Moschino set perfectly replicates the Baroque bedroom scene, with design features like the gold harp, old-fashioned clock, crystal chandelier and Japanese style screen. Perhaps these out-of-the-box imaginations are exactly what we need to find our enthusiasm for life. There is no right or wrong when it comes to ugly fashion. If being unconventional can inspire passion and confidence, then the existence of ugly fashion is the remedy we need living in this crazy, unsettling world.