歷經新冠肺炎疫情影響，Watches & Wonders 今年終於在日內瓦以實體展登場，集結近40家鐘錶與珠寶品牌共襄盛舉，囊括經典機械錶、複雜工藝與自動機械裝置以及珠寶藝術昇華的優雅風範，本次讓我們來回顧錶壇百花齊放的輝煌時刻。

After a brief hiatus due to the pandemic, Watches & Wonders finally returns to a full-scale in-person presentation in Geneva. The largest watchmaking summit invited over 40 different watch and jewelry brands, celebrating timepieces ranging from classical mechanical watches, complications and self-winding novelties and jewelry variations—let us dive into some of our editor’s favorites from the long-awaited salon. 

PATEK PHILIPPE 

新猷技術

為了迎接年度鐘錶盛事之喜悅，百達翡麗一鼓作氣推出了十二款最新時計，帶來一大技術新猷，重新演繹旗下多款腕錶的迷人風姿，以雋永優雅為核心，造就全線系列更添豐富。5326G-001 年曆及兩地時間腕錶首次集結兩項標誌性複雜功能，特以 Calatrava 錶殼為本，創作出嶄新的腕錶外觀，錶側則以交錯飾釘圖案點綴，其炭灰色的經典復刻錶面，悄然憶起把玩古董相機的美好年代。5270P-014 萬年曆計時碼錶，運用鉑金款式重新演繹標誌性腕錶設計，綠色塗漆錶面展現黑色漸變效果，亮麗黑色鱷魚皮帶搭配綠色縫線，使這款頂級複雜功能時計更添經典韻味。

Innovative Creations

On the occasion of the annual watchmaking summit, Patek Philippe unveils twelve brand new timepieces, including a major technical debut, and a broad range of aesthetic reinterpretations. Combining the annual calendar and travel time complications for the first time, the 5326G-001 comes in a new vintage-style Calatrava case. From the hobnail case design to the granular gray fumé dial, every detail reminds us of the good old days of playing with antique cameras. Meanwhile, Patek Philippe presents the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P-014 that comes in platinum. The new iteration is offered in a gorgeous green lacquered dial and a black-gradient rim, along with a gorgeous semi matte black alligator strap with green contrast stitching to fully bring out its classic, elegant style.

Cartier 時光曲線

時間的意義不在於長短，在於人們如何運用、如何體現時間的價值。Cartier 透過對經典設計的嶄新詮釋，精準展現駕馭時間的藝術。全新 Tank Louis Cartier 腕錶配備深邃鮮明的單色錶盤，盡顯優雅風範；Pasha de Cartier 腕錶則採用幾格柵格裝飾，展現張揚不羈的生活態度，巧妙呼應獨具一格的千禧世代。細膩的製錶工藝與珠寶藝術相輔相成，於 Coussin de Cartier 腕錶中，人們能盡情感受由 K 金鍊節所組成的柔軟靈活，鋪鑲鑽石的錶殼添入創新元件，可令錶殼變形並重新收緊，鑽石與彩寶散發出的虹彩光芒亦使人神迷；靈感源自 1930年演員 Gloria Swanson 創作的絕美天然水晶與鑽石手環，Cartier Libre 腕錶凝聚自由不羈的創意靈魂，恣意翻轉間，光芒便是永恆

Testament of Time 

The meaning of time is not about its length, but about how we use it to bring out its value. Through new alterations of classic designs, Cartier precisely captures the beauty of time. The new Tank Louis Cartier timepieces are introduced with monochrome dials to highlight its timeless elegance, while the Pasha novelties come with a detachable “grille” design that brings an unconventional attitude to life that echoes with the energy of the millennial generation. Impeccable watchmaking and exquisite jewelry art often complement each other, a combination that can be found in the Coussin de Cartier. With a square hemmed with a spiral of diamonds, the creation is made up of gold links that intertwine to weave a grid pattern, allowing the case to deform and retract to its original shape. The iridescence of diamonds and colored stones becomes a visually alluring sensation. Inspired by the spectacular rock crystal and diamond bracelet worn by actress Gloria Swanson in the 1930s, the Cartier Libre is emblematic of the creatively free spirit of the artisans. Entirely reversible, the creation becomes a testament of eternal light.

圖說：

Van Cleef & Arpels 蓬勃生機

「花開有時，韶光荏苒。」完美體現了 Van Cleef & Arpels 以機械捕捉光陰流逝之寓意，概念汲取自瑞典植物學家 Carl Von Linné 書中所載述的花鐘，世家便以此為藍本，選用白 K 金和玫瑰金呈獻 Lady Arpels Heures Florales 及 Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier 腕錶，於38毫米的錶殼中開墾出瑰麗璀璨的寶石花園。立體錶盤上的12朵花蕾開合有時，每60分鐘芬芳吐蕊的盛綻景緻，不禁醉心當下，也為辰光披上動人翩翩的氣韻。Van Cleef & Arpels 另以獨樹一格的作品追逐機械工藝的極致，結合世家千錘百鍊的製錶技術和珠寶造詣，Rêveries de Berylline 展現了大自然的蓬勃生機，當展翅欲飛的蜂鳥迎入眼簾，花瓣便於此刻徐徐合攏，溫柔抱擁。

Nature’s Eternal Vitality 

Time flies but beauty never dies, a saying that perfectly embodies Van Cleef & Arpels’s attempt to capture lost time with its nature-inspired timepieces. Inspired by Swedish botanist Carl Von Linné’s hypothetical garden plan in his 1751 book, the Maison decides to bring two brand-new creations into fruition—the white gold Lady Arpels Heures Florales and the rose gold Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watches. The 38mm novelties come with a three-dimensional dial. As the 12 corollas open and close, the scenery of the dial also renews every 60 minutes. Offering a poetic rendition of the passage of time, the timepiece blesses the wearer with the moving beauty of mother nature. Continuing to challenge the limits of mechanical watchmaking, Van Cleef & Arpels introduces the Rêveries de Berylline automaton. Perfectly capturing the vitality of nature, the unique masterpiece recreates the scene of a flower blooming to reveal a hummingbird that is about to take flight. 

BVLGARI 精巧奧義

實現腕錶行家對義式優雅的極致想像，BVLGARI 春季推出三款全新 Octo Finissimo 創作，巧妙運用極致纖薄且沈穩內斂的設計來探索微型工藝的精巧奧義，完美整合頂尖技術、精緻美學與現代潮流。Minute Repeater 超薄三問錶集結令人驚艷的複雜度與纖薄度，採用噴砂鈦金屬材質搭配霧面藍色鏤空錶盤與立體結構橡膠錶帶，內斂低調的尊榮氣息表露無遺。以純色風格與簡約線條並稱經典特色，Chronograph GMT 超薄兩地時間計時腕錶選用全精鋼材質，超薄 3.3 毫米錶身厚度打破世界紀錄，兼具實用機能與時髦外型，完好駕馭各種場合。連續第六度創下世界紀錄，Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton 超薄鏤空陀飛輪計時腕錶僅 3.5 毫米的錶殼厚度，巧妙蘊藏自動上鍊鏤空機芯，實現單按把計時以及陀飛輪功能；更以珍稀鉑金材質展現新面貌，同色系指針與鱷魚皮錶帶相互呼應，一展洗練優雅之姿。

With Exquisite Subtleties 

Accomplishing the ultimate dream of watch connoisseurs, BVLGARI presents three brand new Octo Finissimo creations that cleverly explore the world of ultra-miniaturization with their defining modern design, perfect aesthetic and watchmaking mastery. With extreme thinness and amazing complexity, the Minute Repeater comes with a sandblasted titanium case, a matte blue open-worked dial and structured rubber strap, perfectly showcasing an understated magnificence. Reiterated with satin-polished steel, the new Chronograph GMT is only 3.3 mm in height, once again breaking the world record. The timepiece is perfect in both functionality and design, making it the go-to choice for any occasion. Finally, another record-breaker for the sixth consecutive year, the Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton is reinterpreted with an ultra-slender 3.5mm openwork single-push chronograph tourbillon movement. The groundbreaking watch is crafted in sandblasted Grade 5 titanium and finished with indicators and a strap that come in the same color, a marvel that is as elegant and complicated as it is thin. 

TAG Heuer 前衛美學

大膽前衛與創新設計一直是瑞士頂級製錶品牌 TAG Heuer 所秉持的理念，本次推出的全新 Carrera Plasma 鑽石陀飛輪腕錶便是延續品牌精神的體現。採用實驗室培育的璀璨鑽石呈現極致奢華風貌，探索碳材質的靈活多元，巧妙掌握光與影的視覺呈現，更以黑色陶瓷拋光錶圈，加倍突顯時計的優雅和對比鮮明之貌，於腕上綻放璀璨迷人光彩。另一款吸睛的則是 Carrera 保時捷聯名限量腕錶，搭載自製研發的 Calibre Heuer 02 機芯，內含168個零件，以及擁有80小時驚人動力儲存在內的各種超凡計時性能；設計上則增添了保時捷美學精髓，黑黃配色形成醒目反差，黑色錶面呈現賽車車身的金屬質感，閃耀微光中自帶華麗氣息。

Avant-Garde Aesthetics 

Bold, avant-garde and innovative designs have always been the signature of TAG Heuer, and the new Carrera Plasma is an embodiment of the brand’s DNA. Exploring the versatility of carbon materials, the timepiece features lab-grown diamonds that cleverly plays around with light and design. The black ceramic polished bezel brings attention to the elegance and contrasting patterns of the Plasma. Another highlight of TAG Heuer’s novelties is the Carrera Porsche Limited Edition. With an in-house manufacture Calibre Heuer 02 automatic movement, the watch comes with an unstoppable 80 hour power reserve. The contrasting black and yellow perfectly showcase Porche’s distinctive aesthetic. With its daring look, the shiny black dial draws inspiration from the unique bodywork of a race car, glistening with power, prestige and striking innovation.