LIFESTYLE

優雅法魂 在地呈現 | 專訪:SENS法式餐廳 主廚吳定祐

TRANSLATION | Neda

醬汁,掌握著法式料理的靈魂與根基,濃淡有致,不失爛漫韻味;法餐,講究細膩精緻、工序繁複的烹調風格,正恰好與 SENS 主廚吳定祐的性格有了異曲同工之妙,「要做,就要做到最好。」身為法式靈魂掌舵手的他,於晴朗午後,為我們親身演繹了何謂對於理想的著迷與堅持。

Sauce holds the soul and foundation of French cuisine with consistency and without losing its flavor; French cuisine also pays attention to delicate and complicated cooking style, is exactly the same as the character of chef Darius Wu, “If you want to do it, you must do your best.” He personally interpreted for us what it means to be fascinated and persistent with the soul of French cuisine on a sunny afternoon.

胭脂乳鴿。Aged Pigeon.

魔鬼藏於細節
高雄餐旅本科出身,自學生時期便經常擔任廚藝比賽常勝軍的吳定祐,對他來說,不僅是磨鍊廚藝的過程,每每遇上突發狀況時,更是一場心境上的抗壓強化,「出國比賽突發狀況最多就是設備,記得有一次烤箱不會熱,當下只有一小時,但你要做好三盤菜。」極其考驗應變能力,更不能偏離原本的食譜太多,或許正是這些意外插曲,讓吳定祐逐漸積累料理常心,也從中構築專屬自身的法式優雅學。

而看似從容不迫的優雅,實則出自一絲不苟的高標準與高要求,當魔鬼藏在細節裡,座椅間的排序對齊,於主廚吳定祐眼中,也是如此偌大的小事。當問及廚房內與廚房外的性格是否有所差異,他笑說工作跟沒有工作差很多,「工作比較一板一眼,要做就要做好,不然會浪費大家時間,可能會比較嚴謹、龜毛一點。」

SENS 主廚吳定祐。 Darius Wu, Chef of SENS

翻玩醬汁風味
秉持「老法菜新做;食材在地化。」的原則,運用不同型態的醬汁成就道道別具風味的新創料理,為主廚吳定祐的強項所在。其中冷前菜「小甜心生蠔」選用了不常使用於料理上的中藥材「歐當歸」,將葡萄經發酵後的天然酸味與歐當歸的草本香氣巧妙融合,入口即化的甘甜令人意猶未盡。

而起初挑選歐當歸的原因,在於這個特殊香氣深存腦海,便讓吳定祐直覺認為這是可以使用的素材,「選食材一直在做的是探索與開發,像這一季有用無花果的葉子,這是比較少見,所以會去思考這個東西可以怎麼做,怎麼將菜色跟料理融合在一起。」對於食材上的選用,主廚吳定祐表示較偏好以水果入菜,「我很喜歡燈籠果,那個味道很好,以近期來看,它是比較特別的。」自醬汁、配菜至甜點,循序漸進地品嚐恰到好處的酸甜,不僅開胃解膩,也為炎熱夏日捎來一絲沁涼透心。

阿拉伯米線纏綑腿肉酥炸,料理過後的乳鴿胸肉軟嫩、腿肉酥脆。
The leg meat is wrapped with Arabic rice noodles and then be fried. After cooking, the breast meat of the pigeon is soft and tender, and the leg meat is crispy.

追溯味蕾記憶
素有「古典料理之王」稱號的大廚 Thomas Keller,曾探討了「熱情」與「慾望」之於廚師的差異性,對此論點,主廚吳定祐也表示相當贊同,「只有熱情不夠,這個工作比較辛苦,你要喜歡它,除了要很有熱情,最重要的是認同自己每天在做的事。」一路走來,品嚐過如此眾多的珍饈美饌,吳定祐說最念念不忘的是以前補習班旁邊會賣的「雞蛋糕」,「它沒有很好吃,但我現在想起來是很熟悉的,那是一種記憶的滋味。」接著他帶領我們追溯兒時過往,笑著憶起母親最常煮排骨麵和煎魚,但不喜歡碎骨頭的他,每次總得小心翼翼的食用,聽著母親在旁分享菜市場採買的點滴故事,也讓他備感窩心,「即便我覺得她現在的菜已經不好吃了,但你還是會期待吃到一樣的味道。」

感性與理性並蓄,如今他最大的目標是放眼當下,「服務好每一位來的客人。」從不忘懷根本、從未改變本心,那個藏於廚房內的勤勉年少身影,相信未來將無可限量。

The Devil Is In The Details
Graduated from National Kaohsiung University of Hospitality and Tourism, chef Darius Wu, who has often won in culinary competitions since he was a student, is not only a process of honing his culinary skills, but every time he encounters challenging emergencies, the stress resistance is strengthened in terms of mentality. “The most unexpected situation in a competition abroad is the equipment. I remember that there was a time when the oven could not be heated, and there was only one hour, but you have to prepare three dishes.” It challenges problem-solving skills and is not allowed to be too different from the original recipes. Perhaps it is these accidents that make Darius gradually accumulate cooking skills, and also build his own philosophy from it. The seemingly unhurried elegance actually comes from meticulous high standards and high requirements. When the devil is hidden in the details, the order of the seats also has to be neat, and in the eyes of chef Darius, it is the little thing that matters a lot. When asked if there is a difference between the personalities when on and off duty, he laughed and said that there is a huge difference, he tries to make eventing to the utmost or else it is a waste of time, therefore, he has to be picky. 

旗魚。 Swordfish.

Playfulness of Sauce
Adhering to the principle of “new recipe for traditional French dishes and localization of the ingredients”, using different types of sauces to create new dishes with unique flavors, which is the strength of Chef Darius.  Among them, the cold appetizer “Little Sweetheart Oysters” uses the Chinese herb lovage, which is not often applied in dishes. The natural sourness of the fermented grapes and the herbal aroma of the lovage are ingeniously combined. The reason for choosing lovage at first was that the special aroma was deeply embedded in his mind, which made Darius intuitively think that this material could be used. “It is relatively rare, so I will think about how to make this thing and how to integrate the ingredients with the dishes.” Regarding the choice of ingredients, Chef Darius said that he prefers to use fruits in dishes, “I like physalis peruviana very much, the taste of it is very good, and it is seen quite special recently.” From sauces, side dishes to desserts, you can taste just the right amount of sweetness and sourness, which can not only be an appetizer and relieves tiredness, but also brings a touch of coolness to the heart in the hot summer.

SENS 餐廳一景。SENS restaurant. 

Memory Of Taste
Chef Thomas Keller, known as the the king of classic, once discussed the difference between “passion” and “desire” for chefs. Chef Darius also agreed with this, “Only if you are not enthusiastic enough, this is considered a hard work. If you like it, besides being very enthusiastic, the most important thing is to validate what you are doing every day.” Along the way, having tasted so many delicacies, Darius said that he will never forget the “egg pancake” vendor next to his cram school. “It’s not very delicious, but I think the taste is very familiar. It’s a memory.” Then he led us back to his childhood. He remembered that his mother often cooked pork ribs noodles and panfried fish, but he didn’t like broken bones, so he had to eat them carefully every time. He enjoyed listening to his mother sharing the stories of grocery shopping, “Even if I think her dishes are no longer delicious now, but I still expect to taste the same old thing.” Sentimentally and rationally, his biggest goal now is to focus at the moment and serve every guest who comes, never forget the fundamentals and never change his heart, the diligent and young man in the kitchen believes that the future will be limitless.

SENS  / 台北市松山區民生東路三段127巷12號/ 電話: 02-2718-6388

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