TRANSLATION | Neda

近幾年來，隨著環保與可持續發展意識的抬頭，可以看出時尚觀念正在被推翻且迅速擴張，一步一步地改變現代的消費模式。有經濟能力的千禧世代（Millennials）和消費潛力極大的Z世代（Gen Z）要的不再只是表面膚淺的喜好選擇，而是賦予商品特殊價值：一個獨一無二的背後故事、一個堅定展現個人特質的理念。

In recent years, with the rising awareness of eco-friendliness and the development of  sustainability, it can be seen that notion is being overturned and rapidly expanding, changing the consumption behavior step by step. The Millennials who are more financially granted and the Generation Z with high potential, no longer pursue their preferences from a superficial perspective, but give commodity special value, for instance, a unique backstory, a firm expression of their own characteristics.

我穿的不是商品 而是故事

如果時尚是人類表達自我的方式，支持永續時尚便是一種立場的體現。古著店的花襯衫並沒有比較好看、手工市集裡賣的編織手鍊並沒有比較特別、環保品牌的製衣流程我們或許根本不了解，但是當我們把這些衣服穿上之後，它們幫我說的話是：「我重視環保，我重視人權，我重視這個地球。」因此我們發現古著店和二手店的流行、小眾品牌興起與二手交易平台的熱絡。

無論是百年時裝屋或是快時尚巨頭，都能看出企業們正在大動作的宣傳自家品牌在永續層面的努力，除了順應現今消費者的多元想法更是明確落實真正愛地球的理念。可持續發展更實際的方法可能是，時尚須透過科技的進步來達到面料全面性的永續化與回收再造，讓一樣商品擁有更長的生命週期，甚至是給予產品第二次的生命。又或是以「二手兜售」方式增加使用次數。

全球各地的古著店和二手店被賦予了新的價值，它們不再是販售廉價、被淘汰的衣物的地方，反而是「挖寶」的好去處。在這些地方消費，不僅象徵消費者重視環保，還能找到獨一無二、具有歷史和自己的故事的單品。再加上復古風的循環流行、Vintage shopping 和 Thrift shopping受到歡迎，使古著店和二手轉售市場的潛力再次得到證明。根據 GlobalData 數據顯示，近五年來二手市場膨脹了一倍，成長速度是傳統零售的十一倍 ; 二手精品買賣平台The RealReal顯示營收成長率年增 48.46%，年增 61.03%。精品電商龍頭 Farfetch 和 shopbop 皆推出 Pre-owned 和 Vintage 的選擇，法國的二手平台Vestiaire Collective 更是年輕人挖二手精品的好地方。

此外，近幾十年刮起極簡主義和斷捨離、膠囊衣櫥的流行，促使買方、賣方的關係不再是單向的，消費者可以身兼賣家，折價售出不需要的衣物。這些交易平台讓服飾轉賣簡單化，克服了時尚潮流可能造成的浪費，也守住消費者的荷包。許多人不再追求全新的商品，例如美國的Etsy、英國的 Depop 以及法國的 Vinted 已經普及市場，並且深受使用者的喜愛。而社群網站讓大眾有更多的平台曝光，例如網路紅人Clara victorya 藉由 Instagram 和 YouTube 提倡99,9% vintage 的購物理念，同時經營自己個人70年代風格二手店，獲得一批忠實的消費者。時尚品牌 Stella Mccartney、Reformation、Everlane等等共同點都是強調「企業責任」，從原物料的取材、回收，到製衣工廠的人權保障和低浪費的包裝運送，成功取得年輕族群的信任。

品牌也意識到了二手奢侈品市場的蓬勃發展，呼應而做出了新的方式來達到平衡，例如直接與二手平台合作：Burberry 和知名二手精品平台 The RealReal 簽署合作協同，致力於發展奢侈精品的永續性，推廣消費者使用二手精品的概念 ; Alexander McQueen與Vestiaire Collective 推出創新的合作計劃，目的是推動時尚環保。除了與二手平台合作外，品牌利用本身的文化產物推出二手相關的項目，像是 Valentino 推出「Valentino Vintage」，以回收舊衣支持永續時尚。現今的時尚或許不再是「我買的起」，而是更在乎「我的行為傳達對環境的影響、獨一無二的故事理念」。

懷舊感受是二手崛起的主要原因？

那些來自紙醉金迷的年代，我們可以用懷舊造夢形容。二手文化重新崛起還有一個相當大的主要原因是來自對復古年代的懷念以及幻想，近年來的時尚趨勢不段洗腦著80、90年代的風華、千禧潮流的回歸，帶影響力的新世代偶像 Bella Hadid、Dua Lipa 90年代風格的街拍照片不斷在社群媒體中重複再重複，似乎向觀眾傳達著「擁有一顆懷舊腋下包我也能受歡迎」、「穿著低腰我就在時尚尖端」。Fendi baguette 再次成為流行指標，推出 baguette 包款的更多色彩趁勝追擊 ; Prada 尼龍 Hobo 包也在近年大賣，推出Hobo復刻版，一度出現供不應求、價格翻倍的狀況。

CELINE 除了有韓國女團 Blackpink 成員 Lisa 品牌大使的加持，創意總監 Hedi Slimane 營造出年輕世代喜歡的「氛圍」也成為 CELINE 近幾年來不段創造爆款與充滿話題度的首要原因。Hedi 執掌的強烈風格於他在位 YSL 創意總監時也曾經帶領與扭轉當時的年輕世代，相隔幾十多年，Hedi Slimane 依然知道每個世代「要」的是什麼，他將新生代年輕的形象與他熱愛的 70 年代末搖滾風格結合，擊中趨勢的紅心，打造出屬於現今的潮感。現在人人一頂復古 CELINE 棒球帽，一條街頭龐克牛仔褲混搭著運動內衣，那些混搭時裝與潮流的 CELINE 風格正在城市中發酵。而復古風潮的回歸，讓上個時代留下來的時髦美學也開始影響著當代的審美趨勢，例如串流平台 Netflix 影集《怪奇物語》懷舊八十年代的色彩與畫風成為了這部影集受歡迎的原因之一，復古頭巾、牛仔夾克、棒球帽和高飽和度的繽紛色彩點綴，大量復古流行文化符號堆砌起來的懷舊基調，使曾經走過那個年代的人們產生強烈的共鳴感 ; 對於沒經歷過的人反而產生迷戀，沈浸於幻想的烏托邦世界。

正如伍迪艾倫電影《午夜巴黎》中所描述的，大家永遠相信過去是最美好的時光，那是個永遠懷緬的美好年代，回不去也到不了。碰觸不到的事物之所以讓人感到狂熱，是我們只選擇將美好的事物留下，復古成為了一種好像「偷偷」佔有的珍惜歸屬感，展現出強而有力的獨特韻味。二手物彷彿會說話的藝術品，證明著世代變動依然風格永存，證明著永不褪流行的選擇。

What I wear is not commercial but a story

If fashion is a way humans express themselves, supporting sustainable fashion is consequently a standpoint. The floral shirts in the vintage stores are not relatively good-looking, or the woven bracelets sold in the handmade markets are not special, and we may not understand the process of producing clothes with sustainable textile at all, but when we put these clothes on, they helpto speak: “I value eco-friendliness, I value human rights, and I value the Earth.” Therefore, we found the popularity of vintage stores and second-hand stores, the rise of niche brands and secondhand trading platforms.

Whether it is a century-old fashion house or a fast fashion brand, it can be seen that enterprises are taking a big step forward to promote their own brands’ efforts in sustainability. In addition to complying with the diverse ideas of consumers nowadays, they also clearly implement the concept of cherishing the Earth. A more practical approach to the development of sustainability may be that fashion must achieve as recycling fabrics through technological advancement, so that the same product is granted with a longer life cycle, or even gives the product a second life.

Vintage and secondhand stores around the world have been given new value. They are no longer places to sell cheap and obsolete clothing; instead, they are good places to “dig for treasures”. Spending in these places not only symbolizes that consumers pay attention to environmental issue, but also finds unique items with history and their own stories. Coupled with the retro-inspired trend, vintage shopping and thrift shopping have become a thing, the potential of the vintage store and second-hand resale market is once again proven. According to GlobalData, the second-hand market has doubled in the past five years, and the growth rate is 11 times that of traditional retail; The RealReal, a secondhand luxury trading platform, shows an annual growth rate of 48.46% in revenue, while in the past four quarters was an annual increase of 61.03%. Moreover, Farfetch and shopbop both offer pre-owned and vintage options, and the French secondhand platform Vestiaire Collective is also a good place for young people to dig for secondhand luxury.

In addition, in recent decades, the popularity of minimalism and capsule wardrobes has prompted, the relationship between buyers and sellers are mutual. Consumers can also be sellers and sell unwanted clothes at a discount. These trading platforms simplify the resale of clothing, overcome the waste that may be caused by fashion industry. Many people are no longer chasing brand new products, such as Etsy in the United States, Depop in the United Kingdom, and Vinted in Europe, which have become popular in the market and are loved by users. And social media also provides the public to have more exposure. For example, Insta famous celebrity Clara Victorya promotes the shopping concept of 99,9% is vintage through her Instagram and YouTube. At the same time, she runs her own 70s style secondhand store and has won a group of loyal customers. Fashion brand Stella Mccartney, Reformation, Everlane, to name but a few, all have one thing in common which is emphasizing “corporate responsibility”. From the sourcing and recycling of materials, to the protection of human rights in factories ,and the low-waste packaging and transportation, they have successfully won the trust of young people.

The brand is also aware of the booming secondhand luxury market, and has responded in new ways to achieve balance, such as directly cooperating with secondhand platforms. Burberry and the well-known second-hand boutique platform The RealReal signed a cooperation contract, committed to the sustainable development of luxury; Alexander McQueen and Vestiaire Collective launched an innovative program, for the purpose of promoting fashion and environmental protection. In addition to cooperating with secondhand platforms, the brand uses its own cultural sources to launch secondhand-related projects, such as “Valentino Vintage” to recycle old clothes to support sustainability. Today’s fashion may not be about “I can afford it”, but more about “the impact of my actions on the environment and the unique story concept”.

Another major reason for the re-emergence of secondhand culture is the nostalgia and fantasy of the retro eras. The trends in recent years have not brainwashed by the elegance of the 1980s and 1990s, the return of the millennial trend, and the new generation with influence. The 90s-style street photos of the celebrity Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa are constantly reposted in social media, which seems to convey to the audience that “I can also be popular with a nostalgic underarm bag”, “I’ll become part of it once I put on a pair of low-waist trousers.” Fendi baguette has once again become iconic, and more colors of baguette bags are launched to take advantage of the victory; Prada’s nylon Hobo bags have also been sold-out frequently in recent years, the resale value also has risen.

In addition to CELINE’s achievement from the brand ambassador Lisa, a member of Korean girls group Blackpink, creative director Hedi Slimane has created an “ambience” that the younger generation likes, which has also become the primary reason for CELINE to create explosive styles and countless viral topics in recent years. Hedi’s style led the young generation when he was the creative director of YSL. After a few decades, Hedi Slimane still knows what each generation literally “wants”. Combined with his beloved late 1970s rock style, it hits the heart of the trend.  Now everyone wears a CELINE cap, and a pair of street punk jeans mixed with sports underwear. Those CELINE styles that mix fashion and trends are fermenting in the city. With the return of the retro trend, the aesthetics left over from the previous era have begun to influence contemporary trends. For example, the nostalgic colors and styles of the 1980s can be seen in the Netflix series “Stranger Things” with retro turbans, denim jackets, baseball caps and high-saturation colors, which make people who have gone through that era have a strong sense of resonance.

As described in Woody Allen’s film “Midnight in Paris”, everyone believes that the past is the la belle époque, it is a beautiful era that will always be remembered, and it will never be returned.  The reason why people feel crazy about the untouchable things is that we only choose to keep the beautiful things. Retro has become a sense of belonging that seems to be “secretly” possessed, showing a strong and unique charm. Secondhand objects are like the art itself can talk, proving that the change of generations still persists in style, proving that the choice will never fade away.