TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
Kim Jones曾說：「2023 春夏系列既立足於過去，又為今天重新構想。」拋開現實的羈絆，在樂悠悠的純淨美好夢裡，打造一處屬於自己的烏托邦樂園，2023春夏時裝周將引領人們步向自由、無拘束的千禧世代。
Kim Jones once said the SS23 collection not only connects to the past, but also reinvents the present. Breaking the boundaries of reality and building the utopia of our dreams, SS23 Fashion Week is about to take us to the age of millennials, where everything is liberated with no restraints.
連Kim Jones都為Y2K為之瘋狂，這場秀正好結合了時下席捲時尚圈和社群的Y2K懷舊熱潮，過了一年Y2K還是彌留在腦海中，大膽的普普風色彩、五金配件、厚底防水台涼鞋，追朔Karl Lagerfeld 1996年到2002年間的Fendi系列，同時Kim Jones也打造了一抹專屬於Fendi的Y2K時髦風潮。雖然說以千禧年的交替更迭為主，但不僅僅只有短裙的回歸，極簡寬鬆與流行的折衷主義也能相互碰撞，像是層層疊疊的高科技烏干紗、有漆面刺繡的尼龍針織布料、慵懶寬鬆剪裁和拉長的工字背心式廓形，洋溢出無憂無慮的態度。活力十足的的粉紅色、矢車菊藍及鮮豔的綠色，賞心悅目的中性色調穿插著這些飽和度十足的普普風色彩，精湛工藝，讓羊絨、皮草、翻羊毛和皮革等源自大自然的布料更輕盈，誰說Y2K一定得少女，不能優雅?
「FENDI 在探索服裝的功能實用性之際，又不忘讓女性展現婀娜柔美的身段，這是尤為讓我感興趣的部分。 – FENDI 女士是生活充實又忙碌的女強人。」—Kim Jones
雖然疫情時代的飛行限制逐漸解封， Michael Kors本季卻也不趕著搭私人飛機或豪華遊艇逃離城市喧囂，而是在紐約市中心直接打造出一座都會渡假村，灰色水泥地和背景的熱帶綠植的反差感詮釋出另一種Jet Set風格。
太陽從碼頭升起，在這個水陸交界處，朦朧而超現實，閃耀無窮可能，經過長年穿搭的皮夾克透出的美感，粗獷的柔軟觸感、丹寧的破壞效果、寬版粗針織漁夫毛衣的溫暖感受、格紋短連衣裙、手工製貼花圖案以及學院風毛衣，色彩斑斕的拼貼縫補讓整體層次更豐富迷人，偶然的時刻創造出崇高昇華的感受。而這季大秀上Coach驚喜宣布藝術家兼歌手與詞曲創作者Lil Nas X成為品牌形象代言人，這也是他首次登上時裝秀，大秀將舞台設計成紐約碼頭，通過流動性和循環性作為切入點探索美國傳統，以多樣生活為設計理念創作所有造型和服飾配件，讚頌不完美的美，也為標誌性的Tabby手袋注入新的形象，變身郵差包風格配上繽紛配色及果凍感質地，象徵著系列的形象變奏。
一個象徵太陽系的鏡面星球錯落排列懸掛在秀場上方，映襯著日落時分及河畔景緻，隨著由Wladimir Schall製作的走秀音樂，模特兒依序走出為Tory Burch 2023春夏揭開序幕。無拘無束的自由創新以及化繁為簡的精簡設計，是Tory Burch想呈現的兩種對比，靈感源自設計師於90年代移居紐約時的記憶，以嶄新的角度結合當代的摩登風格，當簡潔的線條和輕盈的色調低調地做為背景，焦點集中在新穎的面料和輪廓上，一切都將變得自在愜意。隨著身體曲線遊走，奢華面料、精細針織、高科技絲緞與輕量佳績針織貼和著肌膚，若隱若現的透視感和堆疊式穿搭輪廓，更在視覺上給予滿滿的驚豔效果。
為何所有品牌都盛大的舉行2023春夏時裝周，TOMMY HILFIGER卻保有想法執意舉辦TOMMY FACTORY 2022秋季時裝大秀?睽違三年重返紐約時裝週，勢必將帶來一場精彩演出。除了實體秀與虛擬世界結合的現場直播，邀請眾人一同徜徉於沉浸式的多元時尚之旅以外，「See Now, Buy Now」也是這次TOMMY HILFIGER的小心思，讓觀眾能因應當時季節直接邊看秀邊購物，打造全新體驗。
大秀首度揭開全新標誌TH Monogram的面紗，是與英國知名平面設計師Fergus Purcell聯手打造，以全新的角度詮釋經典的美式學院風。大膽嘗試將經典與創新碰撞結合，將現代街頭風融入我們經典的美式學院風，碰撞出大膽的流行色彩，以意想不到的方式解構服裝並重新塑造經典。
It is safe to say that even Kim Jones is crazy about the Y2K trend as he delivers a collection that rode the Y2K wave currently washing over the fashion industry and social media. From the bright color palettes, hardware accessories, platform sandals, to revisiting Karl Lagerfeld’s archives from 1992 to 2002, Jones delivers a new Y2K trend that is exclusive to Fendi. Although the collection is centered around the turn of the millennium, we are seeing more than just the return of miniskirts. The silhouettes play around with minimalist ease and pop-infused eclecticism as we see floating layers of technical organza, nylon fabrics embellished with lacquered embroidery, slouching cuts and elongated racerback outlines—all imbued with a sense of carefree nature. While the harmonious palette of neutrals is paired with bold colors like vibrant pink, cornflower blue and vivid green, the naturally-sourced fabrics——cashmere, fur, shearling, leather and more—are made lighter than before. More than just being youthful and feminine, Fendi’s Y2K is elevated with a touch of elegance.
“What is particularly interesting to me about Fendi is exploring the notion of functional utility alongside femininity because Fendi women are strong with full, busy lives.”—Kim Jones.
Between the Raw and the Sensual
The little black boxes with holes seem to allude to the secretive and illusive atmosphere of the PRADA SS23 womenswear collection. As the eccentric broken beats of electronic music play in the background, we are instantly sucked into the Gothic ambience. In the energy of spontaneity, the traces of life shape the silhouettes, while the intentional rifts, twists, creases and folds embed the garments with memories of beauty. From the high-heeled platform Mary Janes, boxy coats and jackets, to silk jumpsuits, everything comes with an inorganic, industrial feel. At the same time, these fits are accompanied by giant, curtain-like false eyelashes that are hard to ignore. Positioned at the right angle, the lashes cast a heavy shadow across the model’s face, reminiscent of tear streaks, as if exploring the lives of women and the changing nature of modern femininity, a theme PRADA has always found fascinating.
Even though travel restrictions are being lifted globally, Michael Kors is not eager to hop on private jets or yachts to go on vacation. Instead, the American designer decides to build an urban resort right in the heart of New York City, by showcasing a distinctive jetset fashion with the contrasting gray concrete floor and palm-lined runway as the background.
Paying tribute to the extravaganza of the ‘70s, the collection radiates with a serene resort ambience with the use of minimalist palette and delicate textures. Strokes of crisp white and neutrals are balanced by colorful tones of tropical lime, navy, pearl silver and dune gold. Embellished with architectural jewelry, the silhouettes are accentuated by romantic fringe, sequins and liquid fabrics to enhance its movement and casual style. Without losing the outlines of formal attire, the details are rich in splendor and defiance, allowing the collection to find the perfect balance between cities and resorts.
“Urban resort to me is the best of both worlds, it’s the luxury and sleek elegance of city life with the laid-back glamor you find in the best resorts.”—Michael Kors.
As the sun rises from the pier, the intersection between land and water becomes hazy and surreal, shining with infinite possibilities. Re-loved leather jackets, repurposed denim, fisherman hand-knit sweaters, gingham dresses, handcrafted totems, collegiate chunky sweaters—everything is elevated with vibrant patchwork, depicting a sense of sublimity exclusive to coincidental moments. Closing the show, singer and songwriter Lil Nas X announces his new role, Coach’s global ambassador, as he debuts his first-ever runway appearance. Exploring American traditions through fluidity and circularity, the collection celebrates the beauty of imperfections with diversity permeating all the designs and accessories. The signature Tabby silhouette offers two fresh iterations—a colorful jelly version and a messenger bag shape—symbolizing the collection’s heavy focus on creating variety.
Set against a breathtaking backdrop of the Hudson River at sunset, a celestial mobile suspended across the runway unravels in front of the audience as Wladimir Schall’s hand-selected soundtrack plays on stage—Tory Burch’s latest Spring-Summer collection begins. Defined by two opposing instincts, to experiment freely and to pare everything back, the collection draws inspiration from the designer’s personal memories of the ‘90s when she first relocated to New York City. Through a prism of modernity, Burch focuses on the innovative fabrics and form by making the outlines minimalist and color palettes muted. Following the curves of the body, the luxurious fabrics, superfine knits, techno satin and weightless jerseys wrap around the silhouette, appearing with translucent layers that are visually stunning.
“This collection is personal and intuitive, drawing on my memories of the ’90s when I moved to New York. I wanted to look at my signatures with a fresh perspective, reflecting what feels modern now.”—Tory Burch.
Immersed in the Metaverse
While everyone is celebrating their SS23 collections, Tommy Hilfiger insists on presenting the Tommy Factory Fall 2022 fashion show. After a three-year hiatus, Hilfiger finally makes his grand return to NYFW. Broadcasted through livestream, the in-person show combined with virtual reality invites the public to enter an immersive, fashion adventure, while continuing the “See Now, Buy Now” initiative that allows buyers to watch the show online and purchase the items of their liking.
Crafted in collaboration with British illustrator Fergus Purcell, the TH Monogram makes its debut during the much anticipated show and delivers a brand new interpretation of the classic American preppy style. Bold, innovative, but also timeless, the preppy design integrated with contemporary streetwear deconstructs clothing, while reinventing classics with bold, trending colors.