TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
那是華麗裝飾與簡約內歛之間的平衡，在重拾生活中的繁複情緒之後，一切將回歸到最原始的型態，愜意且珍貴。It is all about finding simplicity within the magnificent decorations. After sorting out the complex emotions in life, everything will return to its original form, one that is comfortable and precious.
/放大輪廓
「我取用先前系列的細節並且刻意強調他們。」—設計師Nicolas Ghesquière說道。將無限巨大和極其微小的元素相互碰撞，並給予服裝全新的建築式輪廓及線條，演繹視覺衝突的美感，與觀眾展開一場服裝的對話，女性氣質正是Louis Vuitton 2023春夏系列的發展核心，細節上可以看到鈕扣、拉鍊和標籤都被刻意放大，詮釋著現代女性力量。而本次品牌大使鄭浩妍也再次為大秀開場，身穿未來感的造型裝束，變形凸起的服裝輪廓搭配放大的拉鍊配飾，定調本季服裝的前衛大膽風格。
/雙生之境
跟著Gucci窺探看似神秘卻又佈滿溫馨的雙生之境「GUCCI TWINSBURG」，當創意總監Alessandro Michele回想起他的兩位母親時，心中燃起了濃烈的情感與崇拜，住在同樣的身體，以同樣的方式穿著打扮，她們像是神奇的鏡像，一個複刻了另一個，訴說著原件和複製品之間製造一種張力關係。除了復古、大量的亮片流蘇、花卉蕾絲之外，在秀上也看到頻繁出現的小精靈Gremlins，細節上這繁殖的元素似乎也想悄悄象徵著雙生主題。
/優雅線條
「優柔寡斷」是最能形容Dior 2023春夏時裝系列的一詞了，女性深黯如何探索未知的神祕領域，感懷於自身與大自然間特殊連結與湧動生命力，傾聽紛擾於心的騷動不安，不恪守既定的存在形式演繹，創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri重新詮釋了緊身胸衣，賦予幾何形狀，勾勒曼妙曲線，若隱若現的刻劃著輪廓，令人聯想到Catherine de Medici時代的宮廷式蓬裙，系列中不乏許多以細緻工藝呈現的花鳥意象，但在俐落的服裝線條中，始終堆砌出都會女子特有的優雅與世故。
/延續高雅
「對我來說，身體能道出言語無法表達的事物。」這句話來自偉大的編舞家Martha Graham，也是本季Saint Laurent的靈感來源。創意總監Anthony Vaccarello把具代表性的格調與上季極致典雅的修長造型重新詮釋，平織絲質洋溢著奔放不羈的飄逸氣息，強調肩線的羊毛大衣、束腰設計、從容優雅的曳地連身裙、透薄的背心裙、羊絨長褲及睡衣風綢緞則是延續了瀟灑高雅的主軸，配襯具雕塑質感的木質及金質首飾，同時詮釋著女性的柔弱與強大。
/無話可說
這是我看過最真實的一場秀，秀場是一個巨型廢棄泥坑，空氣中瀰漫著雨後潮濕的腐土味，褪色破洞的T恤、殘破不堪的牛仔褲及模特兒滿臉傷痕的妝容，在佈滿荊棘的戰場上砥礪前行，如同時尚界總崇尚著各種標籤、奢侈品、昂貴限量與高級訂製，個人主義已經使得時尚不再高高在上，隨手發布的一則貼文就能決定一段時期的潮流。因此Balenciaga創意總監Demna決定不再解釋他的系列作品，不再用語言來解讀設計概念，在被現實一次次的擊倒後仍不服輸，追尋最真實的自己。
/重塑衣櫥
Givenchy創意總監Matthew M. Williams將2023春夏大秀搬到Jardin de Plantes de Paris巴黎植物園內，兩個歷久不衰的城市衣櫥相互結合，巴黎時尚和洛杉磯冷靜休閒的輪廓鞏固，而GIVENCHY的標誌性黑色洋裝從領口垂下一體式不對稱披肩鑲片，箱式夾克採用粗花呢和毛絨打造的經典套裝，著重在肩部與腰部的剪裁，而經典的西裝外套細節則是有裝魚骨的緊身胸衣，將法式和美式衣櫥融合在一個現代的密碼開關中，重新詮釋城市穿衣態度。
/一切從面料出發
從日常磨砂皮革外觀的顛覆，到複雜的剪裁工藝中呈現的感官誘惑，再到過去遺留下來的經典，保留了在面料上的執著。Bottega Veneta大秀上看見90年超模Kate Moss直接穿著白背心、襯衫和牛仔褲，看似平凡卻需要染印足足12層墨水才能打造出這般效果，或許覺得看起來太過基本，但這些單品不僅永不過時，就連最後出場的幾套流蘇洋裝都是由皮革製成，每處細節工藝滿載，這正是Bottega Veneta創意總監Matthieu Blazy常說的：「這是一種隨性的舒適，而我們把它發揮到了極致。」
/化繁為簡
Valentino這回減去多餘的東西，專注於呈現男女時裝本質，儘管材料豐富，羽毛、亮片、流蘇和水晶等元素大量被使用，仍運用剪裁強項詮釋極簡主義，在流暢的輪廓線條下與華而不俗的設計相映成趣。除了選擇單一色彩之外，鮮豔的黃紅藍綠色也頻頻出現，品牌經典「V」字logo也充斥著伸展台，華麗禮服變成日常運動衫，解放一種既定印象也意味著解放思想，跳脫框架也才能夠看到設計的本質。
Exaggerated Silhouettes
“I took a lot of details from previous collections and highlighted them,” said Nicolas Ghesquière in his show statement. Zooming into the smallest details and supersizing them for maximum impact, the Louis Vuitton SS23 collection brought a new sense of architectural structure and outline to clothing. Capturing the beauty in visual contrasts, it was a dialogue of costumes emphasizing on the identifiers of femininity. Details like buttons, zippers and labels were all intentionally exaggerated, perfectly expressing the power of modern women. Once again opening for the French fashion house, brand ambassador HoYeon Jung took the stage with a futuristic look embellished with distorted curves and supersized zippers, setting the tone for this season’s bold, avant-garde style.
Realms of Duality
Follow Gucci’s lead and enter Gucci Twinsburg, an enigmatic but therapeutic realm of duality. Child of an identical twin, creative director Alessandro Michele shared his admiration towards his two mothers who lived in the same body and dressed in the same way. Magically mirrored, their twinship also touched upon the tension in the relationship between original and copy. Besides an abundance of vintage sequins, fringes and floral laces, the show also featured Gremlins, stars of the 1980s black comedy with a propensity for multiplying, cleverly tying back to Michele’s explorations around duality and twinship.
Elegant Curves
“Ambivalence” was perhaps the best description for the Dior SS23 ready-to-wear collection, but in a good way. Entering the secret realm of the unknown, women got explore their interior turmoil and disturbances in order to understand the special bond they share with nature and its energy. Without conforming to the established forms of existence, creative designer Maria Grazia Chiuri reimagined corsets with geometric shapes to accentuate the wearer and her curves, while the ambivalent silhouettes paid tribute to emblems of the Court, Catherine de Medicis and her crinolines. A celebration of craftsmanship, the collection was filled with floral prints conveying nature’s vitality, without losing touches of contemporary couture distinctive to the elegance of femininity.
Extensions of Grace
“To me, the body says what words cannot,” said Martha Graham, the revered American choreographer who inspired the Saint Laurent SS23 collection. This season, creative director Anthony Vaccarello reinterpreted the ultra-refined, elongated silhouette from the preceding collection. From the free-spirited silk chiffons, wool coats with exaggerated shoulders, emphasized waistlines, floor-length gowns, sheer tank dresses, cashmere pants to pajama-inspired satins, everything was made with effortless elegance and adorned with sculpture-textured wooden and gold accessories—a gentle but strong statement of female empowerment.
Nothing Left to Say
This was perhaps the most realistic show to date. Covered in wasted mud, the stadium space lingered with the raw odor of decomposition. With scarred, beat-up makeup, Balenciaga models trod through the battlefield-like runway in faded t-shirts covered in holes and ravaged jeans. While fashion celebrates all kinds of labels, luxuries, limited editions and haute couture, individualism destroys these fashion standards. A simple post on social media easily possesses the power to determine the trend of a period with its popularity. As a result, creative designer Demma offered no explanation for his collection. No longer using words to interpret his design concept, he presented to us his most authentic self, one that refuses to give up in the face of reality and its adversities.
Reshaping Wardrobes
For his SS23 collection, Givenchy creative director Matthew M. Williams took the show to Jardin de Plantes in Paris and offered a cultural exchange between “Parisian chic” and “Californian cool”—the two timeless urban wardrobes finally met one another. The French house’s signature black dresses were constructed with integrated asymmetrical stole panels draped from the neckline. Meanwhile, with their tailoring focused on the shoulder and nipped at the waist, box jackets in tweed and boucle completed the classic skirt suits, as classic blazers were imbued with boned corsets, perfectly encapsulating the French and American fashion elements in a contemporary code that reinterpreted staples of a city wardrobe.
Starting from the Fabrics
From subverting the appearance of nubuck leather, showcasing sensuality through complex artisanship, to preserving classics from the past, a dedication towards garments was in full display. At the Bottega Veneta SS23 fashion show, legendary supermodel Kate Moss opened the show in a white tank top, a pair of baggy jeans and a flannel shirt that required 12 layers of prints to achieve the depth of color creative director Matthieu Blazy was after. Seemingly simple, these classic pieces will most likely never be out of fashion. Even the fringe dresses that closed the show were crafted with leather. With details of craftsmanship found everywhere, it was exactly what Blazy meant—”It’s this kind of casual comfort. We put it to an extreme.”
Maximal Minimalism
This season, Valentino decided to subtract the unnecessary to focus on only the essentials. Despite the use of a variety of elements like feathers, sequins, fringes and crystals, the tailoring was unmistakably minimalist, creating an interesting contrast between the smooth silhouettes and sophisticated designs. Besides monochrome colors, we saw the recurrence of saturated hues like yellow, red, blue and green. As the house’s iconic V logo took the stage, the gorgeous dresses transformed into daily sportswear—when the mind is free from conventions, light is shed onto the nature of design through shattering frameworks.
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