【專訪】東美院 郭淑珍董事長與王祥富料理長|沈浸東美院老宅歷史薰陶、淺嚐懷石料理的應季旬食!

「庭院深深深幾許,楊柳堆煙,簾幕無重數。」為哲學大師方東美故居留下了昔日寫照,沿著碎石小徑,徐徐步入忘年老松的沈寂樹影,品茗野生普洱的香醇尾韻、淺嚐懷石料理的應季旬食、鑑賞藝術人文的當代創作,為百年風華增添嶄新面貌。時逢大地驚蟄,枝椏上的櫻花捺不住春意,如懞懂少女般綻放粉嫩笑顏,隱身都市塵囂間,靜待有緣人前來探尋——東美院。

鬧中取靜的百年老屋,為台北市區裡難得的清幽之地。
Rare and peaceful, a century-old residence sitting amidst the bustling Taipei City. 

老屋前世今生

毗鄰中正區牯嶺街,前身為日治時代台北城南古亭町,一直以來便是日本人的重要聚集地,其方東美寓所與高等官舍群於 2007 年分別被指名為歷史建築與市定古蹟,如今老宅華麗蛻變,背後靈魂人物乃是力麒建設郭淑珍董事長。談起修復東美院的機遇,她笑答一切緣分皆來自「佛經」,當初至寓所附近查看建案,卻意外發現房舍殘舊不堪,探聽下得知為方東美教授故宅,而方東美一生致力於華嚴經研究,恰與郭淑珍有著深厚連結,不忍望其荒廢樣貌,便起心動念投標修復,「因為他是一個哲學大師,研究華嚴經這麼深入,也希望將來有人在這邊可以講經、講人生哲學給社會大眾理解。」延續人文精神底蘊,並還原日式格局,一草一花一木、枯山水至心字池,皆是郭淑珍悉心下的種種巧思,悄然體現追求卓爾的個人特質。「透過預約制,吃完懷石套餐後,移動到對面的空間喝茶,兩邊有不同的景色跟視角,我都很喜歡。」

至美國際企業、力麒建設郭淑珍董事長。
Chairman of Rich Development Co., Ltd., Su-Jen Kuo.

推廣藝文美學

獨具哲理氣息的東美院,身兼多元藝文空間,結合侍茶空間與工藝品藝廊,並定期舉辦藝文展覽,為郭淑珍董事長所冀望的老屋再利用,致力支持在地藝術家的創作心血,更期待海內外的創作者能於此激盪創意能量,進而推動生活美學之落實。尤其對陶瓷情有獨鍾,更曾經買了一個轆轤回家,自己拉胚完再帶去教室上釉,家中總佈滿了各色器皿,她笑說如今都還有使用,臉上的欣喜之情表露無遺。而東美院的侍茶空間也擺放了不少董事長的私人收藏,如日本古董提壺、書櫃、碗盤至峇里島船板桌椅,斑駁塗漆象徵著光陰淬煉,亦呼應了古色古香的茗茶空間,為到訪者增添了一抹時光錯置的逗趣想像。靜坐於和室內,欣賞透亮金黃色澤的茶湯,入口溫婉清新,尾韻花香滿口,心中禪意悠然而生。

不時不食初衷

著重時令季節的懷石料理,其精髓以三大元素組成,「器」精選日本高級漆器和古董餐具承裝;「旬」以台灣和日本當季食材呈現季節記憶;「意」遴選節令花草傳達意境氛圍,料理長王祥富完好延續此精神,出身嚴謹日式訓練,擁有新都里、三燔本家等名店經驗,二十七年的廚藝生涯積累了獨創的料理原則,融入人體五感的季節變化,化身道道精典的先付、酒餚、御碗,每口皆是鮮味的極佳展現。「春季菜單架構在於櫻花季的呈現,八吋前菜裡加入了很多春天的食材,如櫻煮章魚、洄游線丁香魚、蘆筍豆腐等,再用櫻花葉與櫻花做一個仿櫻花的麻糬造型。」對於王祥富而言,懷石料理是種傾訴時間的浪漫,經由每道解說與緩緩品食,閉眼沈浸東美院的歷史薰陶,每一口的典故與含義皆深刻於心,為食客打造由內而外的舒適暢快,便是他一路以來所忠於的料理初衷。

鬧中取靜的百年老屋,為台北市區裡難得的清幽之地。
Rare and peaceful, a century-old residence sitting amidst the bustling Taipei City.

Within the courtyard deep and still, willows pile up smoke as curtains waver lonely in the hill, once wrote an old Chinese poem that captures the residence of the late philosopher, Thomé H. Fang. Following the gravel path, we slowly enter the tranquil forest of ancient pine trees. Savor the rich aroma of pu’er tea, taste the seasonal ingredients of Japanese kaiseki cuisine and appreciate the contemporary art and culture that construct a new imagery for the century-old elegance. As the awakening of spring arrives, the cherry blossoms on the branches can no longer contain their vitality and bloom like the sheepish smile of a young girl. Hidden amidst the bustling city and in peace as destiny will show its way for travelers, Thome Courtyard awaits. 

The Past and the Present 

Located next to Guling Street in Zhongzheng District, the place was formerly known as the Kuting District of Taipei City during the Japanese colonial period and has always been a central gathering place for the Japanese. In 2007, the Thomé H. Fang Residence and the cluster of dorms where Japanese high-level military officials used to live were coined as historic buildings and city monuments. Today, the old mansion has undergone a gorgeous transformation and the person who made it all happen is Chairman Shu-Chen Guo of Rich Development. Speaking of the opportunity to restore Thome Courtyard, she laughs and says it is all because of the Buddhist scriptures. Originally, she visited a construction project for inspection near the old residence and was surprised to find the house in disrepair. Upon inquiring, Guo learned that it belonged to the late Professor Fang, who devoted his life to the study of Buddhāvataṃsaka Sūtra. Feeling a deep connection towards him and his studies, she was unwilling to see the residence remain in a state of neglect and was eager to bid for the restoration project. “Since he was a senior philosopher who devoted his life to studying scriptures, hopefully in the future someone would be able to come here and share his or her philosophy of life to the public through giving sermons as well.” To inherit the humanistic and cultural spirit and restore the Japanese interior, every flower, plant, tree, Japanese dry garden, including the Shinjiike, are planted by Guo with delicate care, which also reflects her pursuit of excellence. “Through making reservations, guests can move to the opposite space to enjoy their tea after finishing their kaiseki meal. I really like the scenery and landscapes on both sides.” 

料理長「阿富師」王祥富

Promoting Art and Literature 

Emitting a distinctive philosophical atmosphere, Thome Courtyard serves as a multifunctional arts and cultural space. It is a tea room, a gallery for artwork and crafts and also a venue for hosting art exhibitions—this is exactly the vision Guo hoped to build to bring new meaning to old buildings. Dedicated to supporting local artists and their hard work, she is excited about the possibility of inviting foreign artists to further promote the idea of beauty appreciation in life. A ceramics enthusiast, she once bought a pottery wheel to wheel throw at home and then brought her work to the classroom for glazing. Living in a house filled with all kinds of pottery, she laughs and says with pride and joy that they are still in use. The tearoom at Thome Courtyard also displays many of Chairman Guo’s private collections, including Japanese antique teapots, bookshelves, bowls, Bali-style boat tables and chairs. A symbol of past times, the weathered paint echoes with the vintage interior of the tearoom, adding a touch of whimsical imagination to visitors by blurring the concept of time. Take a seat in the washitsu and enjoy the gold, glistening tea as the aftertaste, fresh and floral, brings a sense of zen tranquility that blooms from within the heart. 


料理師王祥富遵守日本料理五色、五味、平衡料理法則,並獨創自身料理原則。
Head Chef Xiangfu Wang follows the fundamentals of Japanese cuisine of finding balance with flavors and establishes his own culinary principles.

Follow the Natural Course 

With an emphasis on seasonality, the essence of kaiseki consists of three key elements—utensils, seasonal ingredients and sensibility. The utensils are carefully selected from Japanese lacquerware and antique tableware, seasonal ingredients are chosen locally from Taiwan and Japan, while sensibility is achieved by using seasonal flowers and plants to establish the ambiance. With his rigorous training and 27 years of experience, Head Chef Xiangfu Wang perfectly inherits the spirit of kaiseki. Having worked at famous restaurants such as Shintori and Mihan Honke, he has accumulated a unique set of culinary principles over the years. Tapping into the changes our five senses undergo throughout the seasons, he transforms them into classic appetizers, suzakana and soup dishes and makes sure each mouthful exhibits excellent freshness. “The spring menu is designed around the cherry blossom season. Spring ingredients are added to the hassun, our second course, such as octopus cooked in red beans, clove fish, asparagus tofu and mochi made from cherry blossom and its leaves.” To Chef Wang, kaiseki is a romantic way of conveying time. Through savoring each dish, guests are immersed in the historic beauty of Thome Courtyard, as they are acknowledging the story and meaning deeply embedded in each bite. Aspiring to build a dining experience that is comfortable from the inside out, he continues to strive forward with determination and loyalty.