TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
“ Keep the best, forget the rest. ” — Karl Lagerfeld。當服裝被賦予一個全新價值，能毫不猶豫的綻放嗎？保持在最好的狀態，忘記其他多餘且繁瑣的顧忌，儘管閃耀吧。
石頭紋理上踩著高跟鞋的腳步聲，汽車喇叭、消防車鳴笛聲呼嘯而過，就像置身在下雨的巴黎街道，但究竟何謂法式風格？Louis Vuitton創意總監 Nicolas Ghesquiére 藉著視覺與聽覺敘述著一切，點燃了無窮無盡的迷戀及想像。復古宮廷式皺褶放在無領西裝上，最能代表法式的珍珠元素被放在整件刺繡洋裝上，繭型剪裁和立體oversized，就連毛衣也彷彿被吹氣般膨脹了起來，鞋款造型乍看是長襪搭配跟鞋的組合，實際上卻是合而為一的皮革靴款，街道門牌、梵登廣場旗艦店轉化為包款，但Ghesquière 始終沒有忘記日常要素，畢竟法國女人最迷人的就是日常穿著。
Gucci 將這季視為一個反思的過往，從激發概念的檔案室到創意發展的工坊，再到展示新設計理念的伸展台，這概念同時代表著自Alessandro Michele離開品牌後團隊核心的協作循環。服裝剪裁令人想起 Gucci 在 1990 年代和 2000 年代初期的性感和迷人的設計語言，卻換上2010 年代的濃厚色調，不再只是單純的放大或縮小，從開場裸露的鑲嵌水晶 GG 金屬內衣、古怪廓形卻份量感十足的人造皮草大衣和毛茸雪地靴，可看出本季三大設計重點：性感透視內衣、華麗毛絨和搖滾包致敬，徹底道出Gucci蘊藏無窮的品牌精神。
我們時常把女性主義掛嘴邊，但又有誰真正賦予價值？對於 Maria Grazia Chiuri 而言，每一個時裝系列都代表一個嶄新的機會，能藉此重新審視並構思服裝與身體和時尚之間的關係。本季Dior 2023 秋冬系列將直接獻給那些特立獨行的女性，Catherine Dior、Édith Piaf 和 Juliette Gréco，她們不受世俗框架制約的活出自我風格，顛覆戰後的女性刻板框架。強悍、叛逆及含蓄是最能闡述的代名詞，將迪奧先生採用過的花卉圖案重新詮釋，金屬絲線交織成的花紋猶如為布料吹入了生命氣息，使其具延展性並消融輪廓的突兀感，賦予抽象效果，色調圍繞在括豔紅的紅寶石色、祖母綠、托帕石黃與藍色等幾個主軸上，打造極具女性魅力、脆弱中散發強而有力的叛逆世界。
Kim Jones說：「我至今還記得上班第一天的Delfina身穿藍色與棕色套裝，給我留下深刻印象。她對FENDI的詮釋方式優雅且別緻，讓我著迷。」FENDI 2023秋冬女裝系列將固有結構破壞卻不失奢華感，透過微妙的顛覆性視角探索古典主義與優雅格調，完全取鑒Delfina Delettrez Fendi的著裝造型，男士精裁版型與傳統面料加以女性化的詮釋，層疊構造的蕾絲花邊散發亮澤、鏤空網眼襯裙或系帶長靴引人注目、剪裁俐落的披肩飾有長而深的衩口，露出綴滿亮片的內襯，閃爍著二元性的概念火花。
當大眾質疑何為時髦？Bottega Veneta創意總監Matthieu Blazy毫不猶豫的告訴你就是「不停地碰撞」，在他眼中一切的創作概念都能被接受，對於這系列他說：「一場遊行：街道上的千變萬化與神奇力量；你會遇見誰？在街角有什麼？誰會讓你感到驚訝？重要的是巧遇與邂逅帶來的驚喜。」，從早晨的白色連身裙搭配睡襪，看似簡單的線條卻有著複雜性材質、睡襪其實是針織皮鞋，細條紋及灰色法蘭絨睡衣由納帕皮革製成。故事裡有著牧師、花花公子、夢遊者、流浪漢，甚至是海洋中的海妖，一個充滿快樂情感和個人風格的盛會，透過服裝獲得自信，變化為心中所想之人。
Saint Laurent 2023秋冬女裝系列中，創意總監 Anthony Vaccarello 並沒有選擇勾勒特定女性形象，反而一如過往，刻意模糊女裝與男裝界線，將性別時尚完全拋諸腦後，透過擷取品牌精妙、情感和沈默有力的融合，重新演繹廣為人知的 Tailleur-Jupe女士剪裁套裙美學，而這種「幽暗內斂的璀璨」在整個系列中出現的墊肩裙套裝中尤為明顯，性感卻不過於嫵媚，有型卻不流於窠臼，用於男裝的細條紋、蘇格蘭格紋和威爾斯親王格紋，同樣以輕盈飄逸的姿態展演出女性的陰柔之美。Saint Laurent 筆下的女人在寬闊的肩膀線條、修長下身呈現出的倒三角輪廓下俐落而顯得有自信，著重於軟硬質感如何並存，藉由絕妙的比例搭配，平衡挺拔視覺與綢緞、雪紡紗營造出的飄逸垂墜感。
秋冬系列最受矚目的莫過於Daniel Lee為 Burberry 設計的⾸個系列，以略帶龐克的怪誕風格翻玩品牌經典DNA與英倫印象，尤其在男裝設計中注入了更多玩味細節，開場第一套就是標誌性風衣，揮別經典的米褐色格紋，取而代之的是深綠色的人造皮草翻領，彷彿宣示著Burberry將同中求異的革新理念。格紋以各種顏色翻印在大衣、長褲、蘇格蘭裙及毛衣上，裹上毛呢和針織細節的熱水袋包款、色調豐富的馬鞍包與學院風斜背包款，搭配人造皮草、麂皮、皮革等不同布料，試圖賦予Burberry包款新的可能性。
「我覺得有必要回到某種剪裁，減少街頭服飾的元素，我想要真正的魅力、低調的魅力，不僅僅是由亮片和閃光燈製造出的魅力，而是為女性和男性打造充滿魅力的輪廓。」—Donatella Versace。Versace 2023秋冬系列將1995春夏結合 Hollywood 黃金時代的瑰麗風格，加上現代態度，以黑色、焦糖色和巧克力色作為基調，同時於此之中注入一點碳灰色、粉紅色、杏色和藍綠色，體驗那個恢宏而氣派的燦爛世界，別緻的高腰娃娃裙、羊毛居家服和大量手套，展露出強勢又濃厚的大女子氣息。
“Keep the best, forget the rest,” once said Karl Lagerfeld. When our outfits are given a new value, can we finally blossom without hesitation? Let us stay in our best conditions and forget about the anxieties and concerns of life—just shine as you wish.
Women of France
From the clicking heels, honking cars, down to the raving sirens, everything emulated the rain-soaked, cobbled Paris street. But what defines French style? Inspiring fascination and imagination, Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière narrated everything through visual and auditory elements. Vintage, courtly ruffles were placed on collarless shirts, as pearl necklaces, the ultimate French signature, were transformed into embroidery dresses. Cocoon-shaped, three-dimensional and oversized, even the sweaters took on an enlarged silhouette as if inflated. Boots appeared as a combination of long socks and pumps, but in reality, were hand-painted and crafted in leather, as street signs and the Place Vendôme flagship were transformed into handbags. Despite all the illusions, Ghesquière didn’t forget about the simple elements of everyday life, as the charm of a French woman lies in her outfit of the day.
For this season, Gucci treated it as a chance to reflect. From finding inspiration through brand archives, to the creative workshops, to eventually arriving at the catwalk, the process also represented how the in-house design studio worked together despite Alessandro Michele’s parting. The tailoring of the collection reminded us of the eroticism and charm of the ‘90s and early 2000s archives. However, not simply playing around with sizing, the garments explored the vibrant and eclectic colors often used in 2010. As the show opened with a crystal-encrusted GG metal bra paired with voluminous faux-fur coats and furry snow boots, the three highlights of the season were made clear—sexy bras that are see-through, luxurious faux-fur and rock ‘n’ roll-inspired handbags, a perfect showcase of Gucci’s brand spirit that appeared to have no limits.
We often mention feminism, but who really gives it value? For Maria Grazia Chiuru, every ready-to-wear collection serves as a new opportunity to re-examine and conceptualize the connection between the garment, the body and fashion. This season, Dior paid tribute to the forerunners of feminism—Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco—who lived outside of the confines of societal expectations and defied the post-war stereotypical image of women. Strong, rebellious but still understated, these are perhaps the words that best described them. Reinterpreting Monsieur Dior’s floral patterns, the interwoven metal wire totems breathed life into the garments as their elastic characteristic blurred out the sharp contour, gifting the looks with an abstract effect. From hues of ruby red, emerald green, topaz yellow and blue, the colors of the collection became a celebration of feminine charm and created a world in which strength is found in vulnerability.
“The first day that Delfina walked into work, she was wearing blue and brown, and I thought she looked so great,” said Kim Jones. Deconstructing while preserving the sense of luxury, the Fendi AW23 womenswear collection explored classicism and elegance through a subtle perspective. Completely modeled after the way Delfina Delettrez Fendi dresses, menswear shapes and traditional fabrics were incorporated with feminine expressions. From the layered lace ruffles, mesh petticoats and laced up thigh-high boots, to sleek-tailored shawls with a long slit showcasing the undergarment adorned with sequins, the collection shined with binaries and played around with perversity.
People often ask, what is fashion? Bottega Veneta’s creative director Matthieu Blazy would confidently say it is all about constant collision. In his eyes, all creative concepts can be accepted. In his show notes for this season, he wrote, “A parade: the alchemy of the street is in the difference; who will you meet? What is around the corner? Who will amaze you? It is the surprise of the encounter that has importance.” From the white chemise and bed socks to the pinstripe and gray flannel pajamas, each look appeared to be simple and yet utilized complex materials. The slipper sock that seemed to be made of wool was actually crafted with knitted leather and the nightshirts were created with nappa leather. Characters in the narrative ranged from priests, playboys, sleepwalkers, streetwalkers, to sirens of the ancient sea. As they attended the celebration filled with joyous emotions and personal style, they gained confidence through the clothes they wore and transformed into the persons they aspired to be.
For the Saint Laurent AW23 womenswear collection, creative director Anthony Vaccarello continued to blur the line that defined gender and strayed away from gendered fashion. Diving into brand archives and combining precision, emotion and strength, he reinterpreted the classic Tailleur-Jupe, or better known as skirt-suits. The brilliance in this understated beauty was especially brought out by the bold, structured suit jackets with imposing oversized shoulders that were seductive but not over the top, stylish but uncommon. When applied to pinstripes, Scottish plaid and Prince of Whales checks, the same fluidity and airy posture showcased the beauty in femininity. Through Saint Laurent’s sketches, women exuded confidence thanks to the perfect proportion highlighted by broad shoulders and the inverted triangle silhouettes. Once the right proportion was achieved, the balanced but taut visual with the flowy chiffon and silk fabrics finally found a way for soft and rigid textures to coexist.
One of the most anticipated AW23 ready-to-wear collections was most definitely Daniel Lee’s debut for Burberry. With a punk edge, he reworked the house DNA and British impressions, especially adding more playful details to the menswear design. The show opened with the signature trench coat, which was no longer in its usual beige and brown check patterns. Instead, it was presented in a dark green hue with faux fur-trimmed lapels, as if declaring Burberry’s innovative concept of finding differences in similarities. In various colors, the classic check was found on blanket coats, trousers, tartan-inspired kilts and sweaters. And while bottle warmer handbags were given tweed and knit details, the bright-colored saddles and satchels were added with different fabrics such as faux fur, suede and leather, showcasing an attempt to bring new opportunities to the Burberry accessories.
The Golden Era
“You need to go back to tailoring and think a little less streetwear. I wanted true glamor, the inconspicuous, the one that is not only made of sequins and glitter. I wanted to really dress the woman, giving her a silhouette full of charm,” said Donatella Versace, who was also doing the same for menswear. A nod to its spring-summer 1995 archives, Versace’s AW23 collection tapped into the golden age of Hollywood and reimagined it with modernity. With hues of black, caramel and chocolate as the foundation, the collection featured hints of charcoal gray, pink, apricot and teal to recreate the era of splendid magnificence. From exquisite high-waisted doll skirts, wool loungewear, to the abundance of gloves, every piece radiated with the power and strength found in femininity.