TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
“ Keep the best, forget the rest. ” — Karl Lagerfeld。當服裝被賦予一個全新價值,能毫不猶豫的綻放嗎?保持在最好的狀態,忘記其他多餘且繁瑣的顧忌,儘管閃耀吧。
法國女人
石頭紋理上踩著高跟鞋的腳步聲,汽車喇叭、消防車鳴笛聲呼嘯而過,就像置身在下雨的巴黎街道,但究竟何謂法式風格?Louis Vuitton創意總監 Nicolas Ghesquiére 藉著視覺與聽覺敘述著一切,點燃了無窮無盡的迷戀及想像。復古宮廷式皺褶放在無領西裝上,最能代表法式的珍珠元素被放在整件刺繡洋裝上,繭型剪裁和立體oversized,就連毛衣也彷彿被吹氣般膨脹了起來,鞋款造型乍看是長襪搭配跟鞋的組合,實際上卻是合而為一的皮革靴款,街道門牌、梵登廣場旗艦店轉化為包款,但Ghesquière 始終沒有忘記日常要素,畢竟法國女人最迷人的就是日常穿著。

復古宮廷式皺褶放在無領西裝上,在高腰位置繫上垂墜腰帶,致敬定義1950年代的 New Look。
Vintage, courtly ruffles were placed on collarless shirts and paired with a dangling belt at the waist, a look that paid tribute to the New Look of 1950.

系列重塑各種法式元素,在簡約之中帶著設計師一貫的前衛與超現實風貌。
The collection reconstructed French elements to showcase the designer’s avant-garde and surreal style incorporated with minimalism.

Louis Vuitton全球品牌大使Jeong Ho-Yeon。
Louis Vuitton’s global brand ambassador, Jeong Ho-Yeon.



延續上季創意的房屋造型,這次則以名勝巴黎皇家宮殿(Palais Royal)為模板製作,更符合巴黎街頭主題。
Continuing last season’s creative building designs, this season introduced accessories modeled after Palais Royal.
絕對性感
Gucci 將這季視為一個反思的過往,從激發概念的檔案室到創意發展的工坊,再到展示新設計理念的伸展台,這概念同時代表著自Alessandro Michele離開品牌後團隊核心的協作循環。服裝剪裁令人想起 Gucci 在 1990 年代和 2000 年代初期的性感和迷人的設計語言,卻換上2010 年代的濃厚色調,不再只是單純的放大或縮小,從開場裸露的鑲嵌水晶 GG 金屬內衣、古怪廓形卻份量感十足的人造皮草大衣和毛茸雪地靴,可看出本季三大設計重點:性感透視內衣、華麗毛絨和搖滾包致敬,徹底道出Gucci蘊藏無窮的品牌精神。

Gucci 2023 秋冬女裝系列以1990年代至2010年代的Gucci為靈感,將品牌歷史中的經典精神串聯起來,鑲嵌水晶的GG金屬內衣、低腰緞面長裙和長手套為本次秋冬女裝奠定基調。
Drawing inspiration from archives from the 1990s to 2010, this season tapped into the classics of the brand’s history and centered around crystal encrusted GG metal bras, low-waisted silk skirts and gloves.





顛覆框架
我們時常把女性主義掛嘴邊,但又有誰真正賦予價值?對於 Maria Grazia Chiuri 而言,每一個時裝系列都代表一個嶄新的機會,能藉此重新審視並構思服裝與身體和時尚之間的關係。本季Dior 2023 秋冬系列將直接獻給那些特立獨行的女性,Catherine Dior、Édith Piaf 和 Juliette Gréco,她們不受世俗框架制約的活出自我風格,顛覆戰後的女性刻板框架。強悍、叛逆及含蓄是最能闡述的代名詞,將迪奧先生採用過的花卉圖案重新詮釋,金屬絲線交織成的花紋猶如為布料吹入了生命氣息,使其具延展性並消融輪廓的突兀感,賦予抽象效果,色調圍繞在括豔紅的紅寶石色、祖母綠、托帕石黃與藍色等幾個主軸上,打造極具女性魅力、脆弱中散發強而有力的叛逆世界。



以簡潔的白襯衫、優雅的黑色鉛筆裙開場,聚焦於簡約色系的手法,巧妙地重新演繹1950年代風華。
Opening the show with a simple white shirt and elegant black pencil skirt, the minimalist look cleverly reinterpreted the glamor of the 1950s.



別緻二元性
Kim Jones說:「我至今還記得上班第一天的Delfina身穿藍色與棕色套裝,給我留下深刻印象。她對FENDI的詮釋方式優雅且別緻,讓我著迷。」FENDI 2023秋冬女裝系列將固有結構破壞卻不失奢華感,透過微妙的顛覆性視角探索古典主義與優雅格調,完全取鑒Delfina Delettrez Fendi的著裝造型,男士精裁版型與傳統面料加以女性化的詮釋,層疊構造的蕾絲花邊散發亮澤、鏤空網眼襯裙或系帶長靴引人注目、剪裁俐落的披肩飾有長而深的衩口,露出綴滿亮片的內襯,閃爍著二元性的概念火花。

FENDI C’mon 手袋採用複古優雅的馬鞍廓形,包身底部點綴FF黃銅標誌,呈現簡約幹練設計。
In an elegant saddle silhouette, the Fendi C’mon comes with a brass FF logo on the bottom, showcasing its simple and compact design.

將固有結構破壞卻不失奢華感,透過微妙的顛覆性視角探索古典主義與優雅格調。
Deconstructing while preserving a sense of luxury, the collection explored classicism and elegance through a subtle perspective.




FENDI 2023秋冬女裝系列。
FENDI AW23 womenswear collection
神秘故事
當大眾質疑何為時髦?Bottega Veneta創意總監Matthieu Blazy毫不猶豫的告訴你就是「不停地碰撞」,在他眼中一切的創作概念都能被接受,對於這系列他說:「一場遊行:街道上的千變萬化與神奇力量;你會遇見誰?在街角有什麼?誰會讓你感到驚訝?重要的是巧遇與邂逅帶來的驚喜。」,從早晨的白色連身裙搭配睡襪,看似簡單的線條卻有著複雜性材質、睡襪其實是針織皮鞋,細條紋及灰色法蘭絨睡衣由納帕皮革製成。故事裡有著牧師、花花公子、夢遊者、流浪漢,甚至是海洋中的海妖,一個充滿快樂情感和個人風格的盛會,透過服裝獲得自信,變化為心中所想之人。

擅長翻玩異材質,看似腳上的睡襪其實是針織皮鞋。
Always playing around with material, the bed socks were actually made of knitted leather.

Bottega Veneta鱗片感立體針織上衣、立體皮革壓紋套裝,宛如寶寶睡衣般的單色連身服,賦予了日常針織非凡的優雅面貌,再藉由混搭襯衫和領帶,模糊正裝與休閒的界線。
From the knitted tops with scale-like surfaces, leather-bossed suits, monotone jumpers resembling pajamas, to the use of dress shirts and ties, Bottega Veneta blurred the line between formal and casual attire by adding a touch of elegance to everyday knitwear.




模糊性別
Saint Laurent 2023秋冬女裝系列中,創意總監 Anthony Vaccarello 並沒有選擇勾勒特定女性形象,反而一如過往,刻意模糊女裝與男裝界線,將性別時尚完全拋諸腦後,透過擷取品牌精妙、情感和沈默有力的融合,重新演繹廣為人知的 Tailleur-Jupe女士剪裁套裙美學,而這種「幽暗內斂的璀璨」在整個系列中出現的墊肩裙套裝中尤為明顯,性感卻不過於嫵媚,有型卻不流於窠臼,用於男裝的細條紋、蘇格蘭格紋和威爾斯親王格紋,同樣以輕盈飄逸的姿態展演出女性的陰柔之美。Saint Laurent 筆下的女人在寬闊的肩膀線條、修長下身呈現出的倒三角輪廓下俐落而顯得有自信,著重於軟硬質感如何並存,藉由絕妙的比例搭配,平衡挺拔視覺與綢緞、雪紡紗營造出的飄逸垂墜感。

寬大肩線、倒三角形和性感俐落兼具,仍然選擇以不分性別的創作理念寫下Saint Laurent 2023秋冬女裝系列。
With wide shoulder lines, inverted-triangular silhouettes and a sexy, sleek look, Saint Laurent AW23 womenswear collection still set out to be gender neutral.

用於男裝的細條紋、蘇格蘭格紋和威爾斯親王格紋,以輕盈飄逸姿態呈現。
Applying the beauty in femininity, menswear pinstripes, Scottish plaid and Prince of Whales checks showcased the same fluidity and airy posture.




英倫龐克
秋冬系列最受矚目的莫過於Daniel Lee為 Burberry 設計的⾸個系列,以略帶龐克的怪誕風格翻玩品牌經典DNA與英倫印象,尤其在男裝設計中注入了更多玩味細節,開場第一套就是標誌性風衣,揮別經典的米褐色格紋,取而代之的是深綠色的人造皮草翻領,彷彿宣示著Burberry將同中求異的革新理念。格紋以各種顏色翻印在大衣、長褲、蘇格蘭裙及毛衣上,裹上毛呢和針織細節的熱水袋包款、色調豐富的馬鞍包與學院風斜背包款,搭配人造皮草、麂皮、皮革等不同布料,試圖賦予Burberry包款新的可能性。

Daniel Lee的調色盤中有鐵灰、酸黃及深紅等色彩,帶來有別於多數人印象中的經典米褐色的豐盈溫暖氛圍。
Daniel Lee’s palette of iron gray, acid yellow and deep red stood out from the warm atmosphere of the classic beige.



黃金年代
「我覺得有必要回到某種剪裁,減少街頭服飾的元素,我想要真正的魅力、低調的魅力,不僅僅是由亮片和閃光燈製造出的魅力,而是為女性和男性打造充滿魅力的輪廓。」—Donatella Versace。Versace 2023秋冬系列將1995春夏結合 Hollywood 黃金時代的瑰麗風格,加上現代態度,以黑色、焦糖色和巧克力色作為基調,同時於此之中注入一點碳灰色、粉紅色、杏色和藍綠色,體驗那個恢宏而氣派的燦爛世界,別緻的高腰娃娃裙、羊毛居家服和大量手套,展露出強勢又濃厚的大女子氣息。

粒紋羊毛單排釦修腰西裝外套在一開頭出現,後面幾套的印花絲質歐根紗也在緊身晚裝上綻放。
The show started with razor-sharp suits cinched at the waist, followed by tight-fitting gowns in printed silk organza.



“Keep the best, forget the rest,” once said Karl Lagerfeld. When our outfits are given a new value, can we finally blossom without hesitation? Let us stay in our best conditions and forget about the anxieties and concerns of life—just shine as you wish.
Women of France
From the clicking heels, honking cars, down to the raving sirens, everything emulated the rain-soaked, cobbled Paris street. But what defines French style? Inspiring fascination and imagination, Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière narrated everything through visual and auditory elements. Vintage, courtly ruffles were placed on collarless shirts, as pearl necklaces, the ultimate French signature, were transformed into embroidery dresses. Cocoon-shaped, three-dimensional and oversized, even the sweaters took on an enlarged silhouette as if inflated. Boots appeared as a combination of long socks and pumps, but in reality, were hand-painted and crafted in leather, as street signs and the Place Vendôme flagship were transformed into handbags. Despite all the illusions, Ghesquière didn’t forget about the simple elements of everyday life, as the charm of a French woman lies in her outfit of the day.

Vintage, courtly ruffles were placed on collarless shirts and paired with a dangling belt at the waist, a look that paid tribute to the New Look of 1950.
Absolutely Sexy
For this season, Gucci treated it as a chance to reflect. From finding inspiration through brand archives, to the creative workshops, to eventually arriving at the catwalk, the process also represented how the in-house design studio worked together despite Alessandro Michele’s parting. The tailoring of the collection reminded us of the eroticism and charm of the ‘90s and early 2000s archives. However, not simply playing around with sizing, the garments explored the vibrant and eclectic colors often used in 2010. As the show opened with a crystal-encrusted GG metal bra paired with voluminous faux-fur coats and furry snow boots, the three highlights of the season were made clear—sexy bras that are see-through, luxurious faux-fur and rock ‘n’ roll-inspired handbags, a perfect showcase of Gucci’s brand spirit that appeared to have no limits.


Dismantling Conventions
We often mention feminism, but who really gives it value? For Maria Grazia Chiuru, every ready-to-wear collection serves as a new opportunity to re-examine and conceptualize the connection between the garment, the body and fashion. This season, Dior paid tribute to the forerunners of feminism—Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco—who lived outside of the confines of societal expectations and defied the post-war stereotypical image of women. Strong, rebellious but still understated, these are perhaps the words that best described them. Reinterpreting Monsieur Dior’s floral patterns, the interwoven metal wire totems breathed life into the garments as their elastic characteristic blurred out the sharp contour, gifting the looks with an abstract effect. From hues of ruby red, emerald green, topaz yellow and blue, the colors of the collection became a celebration of feminine charm and created a world in which strength is found in vulnerability.


Distinctive Binary
“The first day that Delfina walked into work, she was wearing blue and brown, and I thought she looked so great,” said Kim Jones. Deconstructing while preserving the sense of luxury, the Fendi AW23 womenswear collection explored classicism and elegance through a subtle perspective. Completely modeled after the way Delfina Delettrez Fendi dresses, menswear shapes and traditional fabrics were incorporated with feminine expressions. From the layered lace ruffles, mesh petticoats and laced up thigh-high boots, to sleek-tailored shawls with a long slit showcasing the undergarment adorned with sequins, the collection shined with binaries and played around with perversity.

Mysterious Stories
People often ask, what is fashion? Bottega Veneta’s creative director Matthieu Blazy would confidently say it is all about constant collision. In his eyes, all creative concepts can be accepted. In his show notes for this season, he wrote, “A parade: the alchemy of the street is in the difference; who will you meet? What is around the corner? Who will amaze you? It is the surprise of the encounter that has importance.” From the white chemise and bed socks to the pinstripe and gray flannel pajamas, each look appeared to be simple and yet utilized complex materials. The slipper sock that seemed to be made of wool was actually crafted with knitted leather and the nightshirts were created with nappa leather. Characters in the narrative ranged from priests, playboys, sleepwalkers, streetwalkers, to sirens of the ancient sea. As they attended the celebration filled with joyous emotions and personal style, they gained confidence through the clothes they wore and transformed into the persons they aspired to be.


Gender Fluidity
For the Saint Laurent AW23 womenswear collection, creative director Anthony Vaccarello continued to blur the line that defined gender and strayed away from gendered fashion. Diving into brand archives and combining precision, emotion and strength, he reinterpreted the classic Tailleur-Jupe, or better known as skirt-suits. The brilliance in this understated beauty was especially brought out by the bold, structured suit jackets with imposing oversized shoulders that were seductive but not over the top, stylish but uncommon. When applied to pinstripes, Scottish plaid and Prince of Whales checks, the same fluidity and airy posture showcased the beauty in femininity. Through Saint Laurent’s sketches, women exuded confidence thanks to the perfect proportion highlighted by broad shoulders and the inverted triangle silhouettes. Once the right proportion was achieved, the balanced but taut visual with the flowy chiffon and silk fabrics finally found a way for soft and rigid textures to coexist.

Saint Laurent 2023秋冬女裝,將幽暗內斂的璀璨細節注入系列。
Saint Laurent AW23 womenswear found brilliance in understated beauty.

British Punk
One of the most anticipated AW23 ready-to-wear collections was most definitely Daniel Lee’s debut for Burberry. With a punk edge, he reworked the house DNA and British impressions, especially adding more playful details to the menswear design. The show opened with the signature trench coat, which was no longer in its usual beige and brown check patterns. Instead, it was presented in a dark green hue with faux fur-trimmed lapels, as if declaring Burberry’s innovative concept of finding differences in similarities. In various colors, the classic check was found on blanket coats, trousers, tartan-inspired kilts and sweaters. And while bottle warmer handbags were given tweed and knit details, the bright-colored saddles and satchels were added with different fabrics such as faux fur, suede and leather, showcasing an attempt to bring new opportunities to the Burberry accessories.


The Golden Era
“You need to go back to tailoring and think a little less streetwear. I wanted true glamor, the inconspicuous, the one that is not only made of sequins and glitter. I wanted to really dress the woman, giving her a silhouette full of charm,” said Donatella Versace, who was also doing the same for menswear. A nod to its spring-summer 1995 archives, Versace’s AW23 collection tapped into the golden age of Hollywood and reimagined it with modernity. With hues of black, caramel and chocolate as the foundation, the collection featured hints of charcoal gray, pink, apricot and teal to recreate the era of splendid magnificence. From exquisite high-waisted doll skirts, wool loungewear, to the abundance of gloves, every piece radiated with the power and strength found in femininity.

半透明薄紗尖角設計緊身晚裝,搭配羊毛絲質工字褶A字半身裙,最為系列經典之作。
One classic of the collection: a low-slung gown with sheer corset panels and a pleated wool A-line skirt.
