TEXT｜Elva Liu , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
「時尚不只存在於服裝中。而是存在於天空中、街頭上，與我們的想法、生活方式和日常經歷有所連結。」—— Coco Chanel曾這麼說過。在2023早秋與2024早春之際，各品牌都端出注入了鮮明廓型與濃厚氣息系列。
新風格遊戲
路易威登2023早秋時裝將想像力從這岸馳騁到彼岸，猶如這座極具象徵意義的建築潛水橋一樣，有來有回，交叉的通道匯聚了過去、現在、未來的時刻。本季重新審視品牌服裝的典型輪廓和經典皮件，出現很多變形針織品、裂紋乙烯基面料、縐紗羊毛、粗毛呢效果、彈力斜紋布、人造皮草以及花卉印花刺繡等，將運動風格與法國古典主義相結合，同時也延續了前幾季的重點。2016年首度亮相的Atlantis軟質手提包，本季以新面貌捲土重來；Archlight 2.0球全面升級，換上不同形狀的鞋底增添變化性，衍伸推出瑪莉珍鞋、網球鞋、羅馬鞋等；腰帶則是綴以放大版包扣鎖頭以及成排的Monogram金屬花朵。
Louis Vuitton Archlight 2.0 featured new changes at the sole.
Louis Vuitton’s global ambassador HoYeon Jung walked the stage wearing a belt that was made into a hardware buckle and a V-neck design – a look perfectly blending sportswear with French classicism.
時代經典
FERRAGAMO 2023 早秋系列以一種鮮明的輕鬆與感性定義，創意總監Maximilian Davis從Salvatore Ferragamo先生 1923 年為電影《The Covered Wagon》所創作的典藏牛仔靴中擷取靈感，將美國西部精神注入極簡主義輪廓、俐落剪裁與百搭丹寧之中，透過牛仔套裝、口袋細節、格紋印花、粗獷腰帶以及綴有皮革帶飾的包款與鞋履單品，向那個時代的美學情懷致意。卸下浮華魅力之後那份輕鬆慵懶的摩登風格，不論是金箔鰻魚皮革緊身平口洋裝的簡約輪廓，或重新詮釋《綠野仙蹤》那雙傳奇鞋履的單色彩虹涼鞋，Wanda手提包也換上全新季節色彩，一系列全新品牌符碼打造出新時代的FERRAGAMO。
Paying tribute to the aesthetics of the American West through denim sets.
日常低奢
跳脫時裝大秀的鎂光燈和洗版社群的流量明星們，創意總監 Matthieu Blazy 繼續以他的習慣續寫 Bottega Veneta 2023 早秋系列 Lookbook。服裝上已經不再印有醒目品牌標誌，持續貫徹毫不費力的現代低奢美學，專注在細節工藝和面料質感，通過沈穩的個性配色和乾淨利落的廓型，打造日常卻又不凡的設計，編織皮革、金屬光澤感與皮草毛料將正裝與休閒元素結合，一抹藍色調和溫潤而不搶眼的紅，重新演繹衣櫥中常見的單品。另外以Intrecciato編織工藝打造的倒三角編織包，造型宛如隨手薯條紙袋般有趣。
Temporarily straying away from the renowned BV green, Matthieu Blazy replaced it with shades of bright red and natural denim blue.
Crafted with the signature Bottega Veneta Intrecciato, the inverted triangular bag in milk tea tone was filled with fries to add a touch of fun.
傳統時髦
文化間的對話交流促成廣泛的風格潮流，汲取不同地區及文化符碼的視覺靈感，形塑出一種跨越地域邊界、聯結世代社群的風格語彙。Gucci 2024早春系列首次舉辦在韓國景福宮，訴說不同世代影響下與傳統之間的敘事。以1990年代晚期的典藏輪廓為設計靈感，卻經由2010年代的色彩重新演繹，毛呢裙套裝、絲質襯衫、小跟鞋與出現在首爾城市的日常運動服裝相互糅合，像漢江上的風帆玩家與水上摩托艇運動員們所穿著的潛水衣、飛行外套變成晚禮服，代表品牌的綠紅綠織帶也被放大作為裝飾點綴， Gucci這在季依舊端出了亮眼的成績單。
Gucci presented an array of daily sportswear incorporated with skateboarding elements.
South Korean supermodel Sora Choi opened for the Gucci Cruise collection in a billowing hanbok cinched at the waist and reimagined as a floor-length bomber, topped with a Gucci Horsebit from AW23.
靈魂之地
Dior 2024早春系列選擇坐落於一個情感激盪的地方，墨西哥。本季創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri再度展開與工藝的創作對話，邀請當地工匠參與設計製作，並以傳奇藝術家Frida Kahlo為靈感，打造一系列帶有墨西哥傳統服飾風情的優雅衣裝，演繹堅毅而唯美的女性氣質。大量充斥的西裝元素藉此向Frida Kahlo不畏傳統，自19歲時便開始穿著男子三件式西裝的大膽性格致敬。本季乘載傳統記憶的絕美設計，包括襯衫、洋裝、束腰長袍、夾克、帽飾，和象徵著蛻變的蝴蝶飾品，都藏有墨西哥豐富百變的刺繡、編織、銀飾等工藝。
“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening,” once said Coco Chanel. As 2023 pre-fall and 2024 early spring seasons arrive, major fashion houses are presenting collections with clear silhouettes and rich ambiances.
New Styles
For the 2023 Pre-Fall collection, Louis Vuitton expanded their imagination from one shore to another, much like the symbolic submersible bridge where the show took place – a place where the past, present and future came together as one entity. The collection revisited signature silhouettes and accessories of the French fashion house and featured a wide range of distorted knits, vinyl fabrics, crepe wool, bouclé wool, elastic striped twill, faux fur and floral embroideries. French classicism was combined with sporty elements to continue the same emphasis of the previous seasons. Debuted in 2016, the soft Atlantis handbag made a comeback with a brand new look, Archlight 2.0 sneakers were upgraded and introduced in forms of Mary Janes, tennis shoes and Roman sandals, while belts were made into hardware buckles or adorned with metal monogram flowers.
First debuted in AW16, the Atlantis handbag made a comeback.
Timeless Classics
The Ferragamo 2023 Pre-Fall collection could be defined by a distinct sense of ease and sensibility. Drawing inspiration from the archival cowboy boots created by Salvatore Ferragamo for The Covered Wagon back in 1923, creative director Maximilian Davis infused the spirit of the American West into minimalist silhouettes, sleek tailoring and versatile denim. Through denim suits, pocket details, plaid prints, rugged belts and leather-accented handbags and footwear, he paid tribute to aesthetics of the iconic era. Stripped of the glamor to embrace a more casual and effortless modern style, the Pre-Fall collection presented several noteworthy star-pieces – a bustier dress in gold laminated eel leather, the Rainbow sandal first designed for The Wizard of Oz reinterpreted in a monochrome, Wanda bags in seasonal variations – and an array of brand new house codes to kickstart Ferragamo’s new era.
Captured by Tyler Mitchell, the images showcased an immersive reflection of the Ferragamo Pre-Fall collection, at once distinctly modern and resolutely timeless.
Understated, As Always
Straying away from the glamorous fashion shows and social media influencers, creative director Matthieu Blazy continued to write his next chapter with the Bottega Veneta 2023 Pre-Fall lookbook. No longer covered in obvious brand logos, he stayed true to creating an effortless modern aesthetic of understated luxury. The collection focused on intricate artisanship and fabric textures, while presenting distinctive designs suitable for everyday wear through calm and composed color schemes and clean-cut silhouettes. Woven leather, metallic sheen and fur materials perfectly blend together formal and casual elements. With shades of blue and subtle tones of warm red, the usual pieces found in the wardrobe were reinterpreted. Like a cherry on top, the campaign featured an inverted triangular intrecciato bag in a chip cone shape carrying fries with it, adding an interesting twist to the upcoming collection.
Matthieu Blazy 暫時捨棄過往為人熟知的BV綠，取而代之的是鮮豔的正紅色與自然色調的淺牛仔藍。
Temporarily straying away from the renowned BV green, Matthieu Blazy replaced it with shades of bright red and natural denim blue.
Traditional Fashion
The exchange of dialogue between cultures can stimulate a wide range of styles and trends. Through drawing visual inspiration from different regional and cultural symbols, a style vocabulary that transcends geographical boundaries and brings generations together is thus created. For the first time, Gucci’s 2024 Cruise collection was held at Gyeongbokgung Palace in South Korea, offering a narrative that told the story of traditions and how they affect different generations. Taking notes from the late 1990s brand archives and reinterpreting them through the color palette used in the 2010s, bouclé skirt sets, silk blouses and kitten heels were styled with everyday sportswear found in the streets of Seoul. Scuba wetsuits worn by windsurfers and jet skiers on the Han River and bomber jackets transformed into evening wear, while the brand’s trademark green and red stripes were magnified and used as adornments – it was safe to say that Gucci once again delivered an impressive collection that drew everyone’s attention.
Gucci 2024 Cruise collection created a style vocabulary that transcends geographical boundaries and brings generations together.
Soulful Realm
The Dior 2024 Cruise collection decided to take place in a sentimental location – Mexico. Once again engaging in a creative dialogue with craftsmanship, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri invited local artisans to participate in the design and production process. Inspired by the legendary artist Frida Kahlo, Chiuri presented a collection of elegant garments incorporated with elements found in Mexican traditional attire, showcasing the resilient beauty found in femininity. The abundance of suit elements paid tribute to the way Kahlo defied traditions when she started wearing men’s three-piece suits at the age of 19. Inheriting the memories of tradition through the exquisite designs, the Dior Cruise collection included blouses, dresses, robes cinched at the waist, jackets, headpieces and butterfly accessories symbolizing metamorphosis, all of which adorned with versatile Mexican crafts – embroidery, weaving, silver jewelries and more.
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