TEXT｜Coco Yang , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
如謎似夢的壯闊汪洋，寄託著浩繁奇思妙想，蔚藍裡的未知使人想望，此次 Tiffany & Co. 為眾人揭開神秘面紗，由珠寶暨高級珠寶首席藝術總監 Nathalie Verdeille 首度操刀的 Blue Book 系列，運用唯美設計致敬 Jean Schlumberger 與其充滿魔幻魅力的海洋作品，以七大主題延續並重塑 Schlumberger 的生動秘境。當中滄海拾貝系列顯現了受海浪沖蝕後的立體感，鑲嵌充滿奧秘感的黑色蛋白石，為貝殼的生命旅程增添一抹光彩；一眼難忘的星辰海膽，運用丹泉石與手工雕刻玉髓打造棘刺外形，對稱感與造型一氣呵成，猶如海浪奔騰襲來，感受沁涼的暢快宜人；另一款星海之景則將珍珠母貝客製化切割，呈現海星悠遊於珊瑚間的迷人構圖，稀有蓮花剛玉、Umba 剛玉、珍珠母貝與紅玉髓巧妙揉合，映現栩栩如生之姿。海底缺少不了的珊瑚身影，Tiffany & Co. 透過大量的丹泉石、藍寶石與黃鑽瑰麗呈現，滿溢的蓬勃生機捎來歡愉氣息，而展現海洋意識的魚躍光影系列，使用了極為稀有且未加工的蓮花剛玉、產自坦桑尼亞翁巴河的 Umba 剛玉與璀璨鑽石，以特有的溫潤暖意中和海洋的冷色調，恣意嬉遊的模樣令人莞爾。
「由靜入動，躍然輕盈。」Cartier 以一顆重 19.27 克拉的錫蘭藍寶石佐證如此非凡魅力，勾勒環繞交疊的流暢曲線，靈感源於托缽僧不斷轉圈時飄揚的衣擺，運用阿拉伯式花紋展現於其間跳躍的璀璨光芒。若將視線移轉至 Panthère Givrée 美洲豹項鍊，可見於抽象手法和寫實美學的完好融合，從豹鼻到杏仁形祖母綠豹眼，豹首形象唯妙唯肖，而幻化成像素圖案的毛皮綴滿幾何縞瑪瑙豹紋，自然流露美洲豹威嚴姿態，忠實守護三顆顏色明豔、總重 20.33 克拉的海水藍寶，青金石細節點綴其間，賦予節奏張力和強烈對比。伊斯蘭藝術身為 Cartier 經典風格主題之一，每每亮相總令人心馳神往，GIRIH 項鍊遵守簡約形式構築線條、圖案及對稱佈局等元素，由寶石工匠訂製切割的尚比亞祖母綠和青金石於色彩上和諧呼應，添入孔雀裝飾的藍綠色彩組合，更秉承可轉換式珠寶傳統，中央吊墜可拆下作為胸針佩戴。另一不可忽視的亮點，則為綻放紫色光芒的 ONDULE 戒指，以一顆珍罕的 0.92 克拉灰紫色鑽石為出發點，雕琢精巧的微縮立體構型，浮雕圖案和豐盈造型點綴之下，激盪起道道光暈漩渦，奪目的半月形鑽石簇擁於中央寶石四周，舉手投足間持續變幻閃耀，神秘魅力盡顯無遺。
秉持冒險精神，前往非同尋常的神秘深淵，路易威登 Deep Time 高級珠寶系列將為人們述說一場穿越時空的史詩之旅，跨越地球誕生之際至創造生命的源起，透過獨特的原創設計及高級珠寶工藝再創新猷，以「Geology 地質學」與「Life 生命」兩個篇章、共 16 個主題探索，締造迄今數量最多的高級珠寶系列，一個關於轉變、生命，以及兩者相依相生的壯麗故事就此展開。從象徵地球形成兩個超級大陸之一的岡瓦納大陸開始，精選最稀有的無油哥倫比亞祖母綠表現，運用品牌獨有的設計語彙呈現火山、波浪、分裂的自然能量，不時可見經典的 V 字形圖案，散發生動強烈的寶石風格，另以海藍寶石及黃色藍寶石的華麗組合象徵太陽和海洋，為第二篇章揭開序幕。預示著錯綜複雜的宇宙，由人們推動著寰宇生命力，圖形則是使人們用以創作出自然有機的作品，如此皆鑲嵌於最初八個主題的華美珠寶中，自起源、化石、種子至花朵，將相異的質感紋理疊加層次，玩轉迷人的設計手法，一顆顆流光溢彩的華貴寶石，帶有多重層次又別具象徵意義，經末日演化與生命繁衍，藉 Deep Time 高級珠寶捕捉轉瞬即逝的瑰麗，一首頌揚斑斕歷史與自然之美的生命謳歌，正悠揚傳唱。
穿梭於爛漫的迷人花園，滿載優雅風情與花卉為靈感的 Dior 全新系列高級珠寶，以 170 件耀眼創作妝點著田園裡的盛燦光景。當蓊鬱樹葉和繽紛花朵比肩隨風搖曳，形成幅幅蘊藏光彩的春日花海圖，微妙的虹彩變化映照蛋白石上游移的斑斕潤澤，如手工植栽般堆疊寶石鑲嵌，賦予視覺層次的巧妙量體感，更轉述了花園的盎然生機。從對比用色中映現鮮明描繪，游移自若的線條交會，使珠寶構圖如建築般矗立，既抽象、既天真，也乘載著芬芳四溢，沿此軌跡便可回溯迪奧先生所鍾愛的三大花園，部分作品則揭示了想像中的裝飾，一個微型劇院的詩意場景，交織著花朵、蝴蝶與彩虹，顯現於珍珠貝母的閃耀表面，看似顛覆的比例，卻隱沒般若有似無，以一種珍貴夢幻的色彩表達了之於大自然的歡愉情感，而閃耀美鑽於明亮掩映間的競逐中包圍著光彩奪目的珍稀寶石，透過高級訂製服裡流蘇裝飾的領口，環繞耳部，與細緻包覆腰身，堆疊佩戴中，靈活展現珠寶作品的生命力。
Upholding their unwavering passion and pursuit of beauty, the master jewelers cast their gazes upon the world and everything it has to offer. Inspirations are interpreted through novel and unique expressions, as unprecedented modern perspectives are imbued with timeless creativity. Swaying gracefully, the jewels pay tribute to the boundless vitality and myriad forms of the universe with their delicate and nimble movements.
Mysterious and mesmerizing, the vast ocean is filled with abundant imagination, the unknown within the azure evokes desire and curiosity. This summer, Tiffany & Co. unveils a brand new Blue Book collection, which is also the first curated by Nathalie Verdeille, chief artistic officer for jewelry and high jewelry of the house. Paying homage to Jean Schlumberger and his enchanting ocean-inspired works, the collection continues and reworks Schlumberger’s vivid realms through seven captivating themes. The Shell theme explores the three-dimensionality reminiscent of erosion caused by waves, featuring an enigmatic black opal that adds a touch of radiance to the shell’s life journey. Unforgettable upon first sight, the Star Urchin captures the spiky exterior of sea urchins with tanzanite and hand-carved chalcedony. Like the rushing of waves, the symmetrical design evokes a sensation that is refreshing and delightful. In the Sea Star theme, custom-cut mother-of-pearl is used to create the captivating snapshot of starfish swimming among corals. Together, rare padparadscha sapphires, Umba sapphires, mother-of-pearl and carnelians breathe life into the ingenious masterpieces. And of course, the ocean isn’t complete without corals. Through an abundance of tanzanite, sapphires and yellow diamonds, Tiffany & Co. imbues the Coral theme with exuberance and vital energy. Perfectly embodying the essence of aquatic life, the Pisces theme incorporates rare unenhanced Padparadscha sapphires, Umba sapphires and diamonds and offers warm hues to complement the cool blues of the ocean to portray the lively creatures swimming under the water.
Animating the inanimate with leaping lightness – this is the extraordinary charm captured by Cartier through the Sama necklace featuring a 19.27 carat Ceylon sapphire as the center stone. Inspired by the dresses worn by whirling dervishes, its smooth, intertwining curves are adorned with Arabic motifs that radiate with striking brilliance. Shifting gaze to the Panthère Givrée necklace, the innovation presents a perfect interplay of abstraction and hyper-realism. From the panther’s nose to the almond-shaped emerald eyes, the head of the feline is realistically depicted. Meanwhile, the pixelated coat composed of geometric shoes and onyx spots naturally emanates the majestic presence of the creature. Adorned with lapis lazuli accents, a set of three vibrant-colored aquamarines – totaling 20.33 carats and safeguarded by the panther – creates an intense, chromatic dynamic to the composition. As one of Cartier’s classic themes, Islamic arts always captivate the heart whenever they make an appearance. Embodying minimalist architectural lines, totems and symmetrical patterns, the Girih necklace finds harmony within the custom-cut emeralds from Zambia and lapis lazuli by adding blue and green hues reminiscent of peacock motifs. True to the tradition of convertibility, the central pendant can be detached and worn as a brooch. Another noteworthy gem of the collection is most definitely the Ondule ring. Integrated into the heart of a miniature structure, a rare 0.92 carat fancy gray-violet diamond is complemented by relief patterns and rich forms. The remarkable center stone is surrounded by half-moon diamonds, allowing the wearer to radiate with a mysterious brilliance through each and every movement.
With a spirit of exploration, venture into extraordinary and mysterious depths, as the Louis Vuitton Deep Time High Jewelry collection will narrate an epic journey through time and space, ranging from the birth of planet Earth to the origins of life. Through distinctive, original designs and exquisite jewelry craftsmanship, the series explores two chapters – Geology and Life – which come in 16 themes, and offers the largest High Jewelry collection to date. A magnificent story about transformation, life and their interdependence thus begins. Starting with the continent of Gondwana, one of the two supercontinents symbolizing Earth’s formation, the Geology collection unravels with a selection of rare No-Oil Colombian emeralds. Unique brand signatures capture the natural energy of volcanoes, waves and splits, while the Vuitton signature V emits an intense gemstone style. The first chapter closes with a magnificent combination of blue and yellow sapphires emblematic of the sun and the ocean, marking the beginning of the second chapter. Titled Life, it signifies the intricate and complex universe driven by human vitality. The patterns are the organic works of art created by civilization, which are all beautifully embedded in the initial eight themes of the jewelry collection. From Origin, Fossils, Seeds to Flowers, layers of different textures showcase an array of captivating design techniques. Each and every dazzling gemstone becomes an emblem of meaning, representing the evolution and proliferation of life through time. With Deep Time, the beauty found in fleeting moments are captured, as a melodic ode to life’s colorful journey and the magnificence of mother nature is composed and celebrated.
Like taking a stroll through the charming garden, the new Dior High Jewelry collection draws inspiration from flowers and their elegant allure with 170 exceptional pieces that portray a vibrant scenery of nature. As the lush foliage and colorful blossoms sway in the breeze, creating a picturesque spring floral landscape, the subtle iridescent variations cast a lustrous shadow on the opal stones. The gems are layered and set like meticulously crafted plantings, creating an ingenious visual depth that perfectly conveys the flourishing vitality found in the garden. Through contrasting colors, vivid depictions and intersecting lines of fluidity, the compositions are built with an architectural presence. Abstract, innocent, but also full of life, the masterpieces can be traced back to the late Monsieur Dior’s three beloved gardens. Some of it reveals imaginative decorations set in a miniature theater. An interplay of flowers, butterflies and rainbows is reflected on the shimmering surface of the mother-of-pearls. Defying proportions and elusive in a sense, the innovations celebrate the joyous emotions evoked by nature with precious, dream-like hues. Radiant, precious gemstones are surrounded by glistening diamonds, as they adorn the collar of the fringe embellishment seen in haute couture and delicately embrace the waist and the ear. Through different layers and styling, the zest of life found in these jewel pieces is showcased.