新派台菜 叁酒弍沏

TEXT|Ariel Yu , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

座落於台北東區巷弄,顏值系台菜的「叁酒弍沏」,品牌創辦人林奕寬以保古創新的叁作:老菜新作、小菜大作、名菜改作,將道道經典名菜重新演繹,創新手法並蓄台式風情,引領老饕體驗耳目一新的台式饗宴。透過道道翻新的細膩韻味,佐證他心中一直以來堅守的初心。

追夢盛宴

回溯創業時的勇敢,林奕寬笑稱當時只籌備了三分之一桶金,勇敢實踐學生時期的夢想。在充滿不穩定性的這條路上,堅守「精神層面的耐心」便是他一路走來的人生理念。「對一個企業的認知和想法,有點像煮開水,溫度到了就會滾,對它的的了解程度也成熟了。」創業沒有公式可以追尋,縝密思考過後,最初的林奕寬決定先從百貨業的基層做起,累積數年的經驗,有了底氣,才能更踏實的築夢,他也表示正因為有了往死裡去的決心,讓他在夢想的道路上,一步一腳印踩穩步伐,勇敢向前,因為夢想而啟動、因為付出而收穫,放眼眺望更高更遠的風景。

永保初心

創業十一年來,林奕寬用活力迎接每一天一成不變的生活,更以最佳的狀態帶領團隊,這是他一直以來所堅定的核心理念,「我喜歡人與人之間的互動,還有人際關係帶來的成就感。餐飲業的本質是人,服務是人提供的,餐點是人做出來的,我覺得人是我們本身在這個行業裡面最專注的。」保有這些初心的本質,是人與人之間所帶來的回饋,亦如他們一直在幫你加油,一直在添加能量給你。以樂觀的心態看待所有,披荊斬棘般的乘勢而行。

台菜新秀

不侷限料理的呈現手法,台菜特別的地方在於它沒有框架,猶如雲朵般伸縮自如。而林奕寬從創業來就堅持「新派台菜」的初心,展現不被定義的台灣風土人情味。五味九孔鮑是創業後第一道中西合併的創意料理,把西式的馬鈴薯沙拉,和台菜冷盤的五味九孔融合在一起,呈現出嶄新的文化風貌。叁酒弍沏中的蒜泥紅白無雙沙拉則是利用「名菜改作」的核心原理,將經典名菜〈蒜泥白肉〉創新演繹,試圖在所有亞洲人的美食記憶中,誘發心中的那份共同記憶。

投捕默契

「在創業這條路上,如果我是投手,我的夥伴就是捕手,我投球他接球。只是我控球不是太好,常常爆投,讓我夥伴很不知所措。」擁有天馬行空想法的林奕寬和高執行力的夥伴,秉持對這個事業的核心價值一致認同,才能一路走下去。在科技產業崛起後,不管是大數據的傳承,還是設備取代人工,也都為他省下不少擔憂和力氣。最後更提倡「深根台灣,立足華人圈,放眼全世界」的世界觀,將台菜推廣到世界各地,中西合併的印象衝擊,在菜餚中溫厚包覆著台式豐沛的生命力。

Reworking Classics with Restaurant 3927

Hidden within the alleys of Taipei East District, Restaurant 3927 serves modern and visually appealing Taiwanese cuisine. From adding new twists to classics, expanding upon the flavors found in small dishes, to reworking famous signatures, the founder, Yi-Kuan Lin, strives to preserve tradition while innovating. As he reinterprets classic signature dishes while using novel techniques to showcase Taiwanese culture, he invites connoisseurs to embark on a culinary journey that is refreshing and unprecedented. Through the delicate refinement of the renewed flavors, the restaurant serves as a testament to Lin’s unwavering dedication throughout the years. 

Chasing Dreams 

Reflecting on the start of his own business, Lin smiles and admits he had only managed to gather one-third of the required funds when he first started, and yet, he still decided to fulfill the dream from his student days. On this path filled with uncertainties, upholding spiritual patience has been his guiding philosophy throughout his life journey. “The understanding and ideas about a business are just like the process of boiling water. Once it reaches the right temperature, it boils and your comprehension of it matures as well.” Since there are no formulas to follow when it comes to entrepreneurship, after careful consideration, Lin decided to start from entry-level jobs at department stores to accumulate different experiences. With this foundation, he gained enough confidence to begin chasing his dreams, eventually becoming an entrepreneur who succeeded on his first try.  

Remembering Origins 

Throughout his 11 years of being an entrepreneur, Lin continues to embrace each day with vitality and insists on leading his team in his best condition – this has been the core philosophy that remains unchanged through the years. “I enjoy the interactions I have with people and the sense of achievement that comes from interpersonal relationships. The essence of the culinary industry is the people. People provide service and people make the dishes as well. I believe people are also what we are most focused on in this field.” In order to keep these initial aspirations, it is important to look for feedback through human connections. It is like they are always cheering you on and continuously bringing you energy. With an optimistic outlook on the world, he navigates challenges with the determination to overcome any obstacles.  

A Rising Star

Without any limitations when it comes to presentation, what sets Taiwanese cuisine apart from others is its lack of rigid framework, which expands and contracts like clouds in the sky. From the moment he decided to start his own business, Lin has been insisting on creating new-styled Taiwanese food to showcase the essence of our local culture that cannot be easily classified. The Five-Flavor Abalone is the first fusion dish created after the establishment of the restaurant. A merge of Eastern and Western flavors, it combines the concept of potato salad with the signature Taiwanese starter to present a completely new cultural image. On the other hand, Restaurant 3927’s Prosciutto Pork Belly Salad with Minced Garlic follows the idea of reinventing classic dishes by reworking the signature Garlic Pork Belly, in the attempt to evoke a shared memory that lives in the heart of the Asian community. 

Culinary Synergy

“On the journey of starting my own business, if I am the pitcher, then my partner is the catcher – I throw the ball and he catches it. It’s just that my control isn’t always the best. I tend to throw wild pitches, which often catches my partner off guard.” The reason Lin’s imaginative ideas and his partner’s strong execution skills work together seamlessly is because they share a consistent understanding of the core values of the business, allowing them to make it this far. As the technology industry progresses, whether it is the inheritance of big data or manual labor being replaced by machines, these advancements relieved Lin of his worries and struggles. It all comes down to his global perspective – planting roots in Taiwan, building foundations in Asia and setting eyes on the world. As he strives to introduce Taiwanese cuisine to the world, the fusion of Eastern and Western flavors leaves a profound impact, perfectly capturing the vitality enveloped within each and every local dish.