TEXT｜Lynn Tan , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
運動時的最佳「錶友」，除了具有計時碼錶功能的複雜腕錶之外，搭載可以承受高強度運動的機芯，或是錶殼堅實、外型大器的腕錶，都可以讓男人們更加自信地在運動場上揮灑自如。
To become the wearer’s best companion during workouts, timepieces are equipped with calibers that can withstand high-intensity sports with their robust cases and bold appearances, in addition to their timekeeping complications – all providing men with the confidence to excel in their athletic endeavors.
翱翔之心
每顆心都藏著一顆飛行的靈魂，可以是心境上的自由翱翔，更可以是自架飛機體驗動態的飛翔。如果無暇飛行，飛行錶在手也說得上是過癮暢快！百年靈全新42毫米Classic AVI錶款維繫了此系列錶迷所喜愛連結了四款傳奇飛機的配色——黑色錶盤和金棕色皮革錶帶代表的「野馬戰機」、藍色錶盤和黑色錶帶象徵的「海軍海盜式戰鬥機」、軍綠色錶盤和棕色錶帶所展現具有迷彩外觀的「戰鷹戰鬥機」、黑色錶盤和棕色錶帶上的黑色陶瓷錶圈則是彰顯有「木製奇蹟」之稱的蚊式戰鬥機。每款錶殼背面都鐫刻著飛機輪廓，讓熱愛飛行的精神更由頭徹尾。每款還可搭配選擇明線縫合小牛皮錶帶或五排式金屬鍊帶，展現不同氣息。
Soaring Heart
Every heart carries a soul that yearns to fly, which can be the freedom in terms of the mind or the dynamic flight experience in an auto-piloted aircraft. If you are too busy to take a trip, perhaps having a pilot’s watch can be just as enjoyable. Upholding the beloved tradition of the iconic series, Breitling introduces the brand new 42mm Classic AVI that comes in four colors, each inspired by the rugged spirit of early legendary aircraft – black dial and gold brown strap in honor of the North American P-51 Mustang, blue dial and black strap emblematic of the Vought F4U Corsair, military green dial and brown strap capturing the camouflaged Curtiss Warhawk, black ceramic bezel housing a black dial and brown strap paying tribute to the De Havilland Mosquito, also known as the Wooden Wonder for its speed. Each caseback is engraved with the silhouette of a plane to elevate the spirit of aviation for enthusiasts, while each model can be paired with either a fine-stitched calfskin leather strap or a stainless steel metal bracelet to showcase different styles according to the wearer’s desire.
全新款式還有一款46 毫米錶徑的超級飛行員世界時計時腕錶「蚊式夜間戰鬥機」特別版，錶款設計採用黑色陶瓷錶殼、黑色軍用皮革錶帶和設有煙灰色小錶盤的黑色錶盤。特地安排如此「徹底的黑」，是由於此款腕錶的設計是源於無聲無息滑過夜空的全黑雙座飛機。錶款外觀的滾花錶圈和凹槽錶冠，即使戴著手套也能輕鬆操控，內錶圈備有24小時刻度和第二時區指針以追踪第二時區的功能，錶款搭載經瑞士官方天文台（COSC）認證的百年靈自製B04機芯。
The new collection also includes a special edition Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 Mosquito Night Fighter. From its black ceramic case, black military-leather strap, black dial to its ash gray subdial, the deliberate all-black design is inspired by the all-black two-seater aircraft that glides stealthily through the night sky. Its knurled bezel and grooved crown provide optimal grip, even in a pilot’s gloved hands, while the 24-hour marking on the inner bezel and the white-tipped GMT hand offer tracking for a second time zone. The innovation is powered by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B04 movement, which is certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
輕盈時光
喜愛機械錶的族群，也會享受為腕錶上鍊的時刻，在那時空裡，只有自己與愛錶之間的連結，只有自己與自己內心的對話。一種在日理萬機之後片刻的寧靜時光……。但隨著生活步調的繁忙緊湊，偶爾忘了上鍊使腕錶停止走時便是一件很扼腕的事。擅長打造多日鍊的宇舶錶，在Big Bang Meca-10十日鍊腕錶上體恤到腕錶藏家的需求，為腕錶上滿鍊之後十天都不用擔憂腕錶的動力。腕錶設計為大器的45毫米錶徑，面盤採鏤空設計，可以透視自製 Meca-10 (HUB1201)手上鍊機芯的特殊結構，展現濃厚的工業風格。全系列共有四款材質：King Gold皇金、鈦金屬、藍陶瓷、黑陶瓷。
Lightweight Times
To mechanical watch enthusiasts, they enjoy the process of winding watches because in that particular moment, a bond between the wearer and his beloved watch is created, while a chance to reflect upon his inner psyche is presented. It is a moment of perfect tranquility after a busy day. But as the pace of life accelerates, occasionally forgetting to wind the watch, which causes the watch to stop, can become quite frustrating. Known for creating timepieces with extended power reserves, Hublot fulfills the needs of watch collectors by incorporating a 10-day power reserve into the Big Bang Meca-10, allowing the watch to continue to run for 10 days after fully winding it. In a substantial 45mm case, the skeleton dial offers a glance into the distinctive structure of the in-house Meca-10 (HUB1201) self-winding movement boasting strong industrial style. The series offers four different iterations: King Gold, titanium, blue ceramic and black ceramic.
當宇舶錶品牌大使、世界網壇名將喬科維奇(Novak Djokovic)在2023澳洲網球公開賽獲得冠軍手舉冠軍獎座時，佩戴的正是這款宇舶Big Bang Meca-10 十日鍊藍陶瓷腕錶，在得獎致詞的談話中他提到：不論出身為何，都要勇敢追逐夢想 ! 這點正如勇於追求夢想的宇舶錶，品牌對於腕錶「結合大錶徑與輕盈度」的追求在Big Bang Unico Golf 高爾夫腕錶上再次體現。採用同色系鍍鋁碳纖維（Texalium®）打造而成。這是一項由宇舶獨家研發的創新材質技術，將碳纖維與鋁金屬結合為一，整只錶僅重98公克。與高球名將達斯汀強生(Dustin Johnson)在今年攜手推出全新Big Bang Golf 晴空藍高爾夫腕錶，色彩清麗明亮，全球限量100只。
When Hublot brand ambassador and world tennis champion Novak Djokovic won the 2023 Australian Open and received his champion’s trophy, he was wearing the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 in blue ceramic. In his winning speech, he mentioned that it doesn’t matter where you come from, never let anyone take away the dream. The same spirit can be found in Hublot’s pursuit of making larger watches lighter, which is showcased by the Big Bang Unico Golf. An innovative technology developed exclusively by Hublot, Texalium® combines carbon fiber and aluminum into one, creating a watch that only weighs 98 grams. In partnership with professional golfer Dustin Johnson, Hublot introduces the brand new Big Bang Unico Golf that is coated in bright sky blue and is limited to 100 pieces worldwide.
義式風采
近年「永續」的概念在精品界也越加受到重視。來自美麗國度義大利的沛納海也推出一款在材質與打造過程都具話題性的全新錶款——Submersible S BRABUS eTitanio™ PAM01403，這回再次與德國高級汽車改裝品牌BRABUS聯手，採用100% 消費前回收鈦金屬粉末，並運用直接金屬鐳射燒結技術 (Direct Metal Laser Sintering, DMLS) 打造 47 毫米的eTitanio™再生鈦合金錶殼。沛納海除了是採用這項技術的先驅品牌，也是少數持續應用此技術的製錶品牌。相較一般鈦金屬錶殼，以 DMLS 技術打造的錶殼可減輕約30%的重量。
Italian Ambiance
In recent years, sustainability has gained recognition in the luxury goods industry. From the beautiful country of Italy, Panerai launches a new timepiece that is noteworthy for its material and production process – the Submersible S BRABUS eTitanio™ PAM01403. Continuing its partnership with German luxury mobility brand BRABUS, the 47mm case of the latest time-teller is made of eTitanio, a 100% recycled titanium powder derived from pre-consumer scraps, and crafted using Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) technology. Not only a pioneer in adopting this technology, Panerai is also one of the few watchmaking brands who is committed to the continuity of it. With this cutting-edge technology, the case boasts a significantly lightweight construction, which weighs around 30% less than standard titanium cases made with conventional methods.
Submersible S eTitanio™ PAM01403除了輕巧，外型也相當獨特，這是由於打造錶殼的過程是透過精準的3D列印技術層層疊加鈦金屬原料，使錶殼逐漸成形。此外，沛納海創意工坊 (Laboratorio di Idee) 的高級複雜功能之一「鏤空機芯」讓腕錶整體相當獨特，此款專賣店限定，全球限量177枚。也由於特殊的工法使得腕錶有別於「一貫的沛納海」風格。對於追尋傳統的錶迷來說，今年主打款Radiomir Otto Giorni系列PAM01347，手工打磨 eSteel™錶殼散發著復古韻味，彷彿也是向原版Radiomir致敬之作。同樣是今年主打款式Radiomir Quaranta GoldtechTM系列PAM01026，紅金材質錶殼搭配白色調錶盤，展現穩健風範。上述兩款腕錶都維繫了沛納海經典的三明治錶盤設計，讓「忠於原味」的錶迷們能夠選擇舊愛錶款。
On top of being lightweight, Submersible S eTitanio™ PAM01403 also carries a rather unique appearance made possible through 3D printing and layers of titanium powder to precisely create the shape of the case. Thanks to Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee, the innovation is also a skeleton timepiece that is limited to 177 pieces worldwide and sold exclusively at Panerai boutiques, setting itself as an exemplification of a signature Panerai for its one-of-a-kind craftsmanship. Another collector’s favorite, the Radiomir Otto Giorni PAM01347 features a hand-carfted eSteel™ case that radiates with retro beauty and pays tribute to the original edition of Radiomir. Also a star time-teller of the year, the Radiomir Quaranta GoldtechTM PAM01026 combines its red-gold case with white color scheme dial to display a steady demeanor. Both watches stay true to the classic sandwich dial design of Panerai, allowing watch enthusiasts to show their loyalty to these beloved original models.
工業美學
風格獨特的Richard Mille一直是腕錶藏家的夢幻逸品。錶殼與鏤空結構的機芯，在如此具備工業美學的層次堆疊之中，有如小小的腕上建築藝術。每一款Richard Mille腕錶散發著剛烈大器的氣息。在新款腕錶RM 30-01離合擺陀自動上鍊腕錶也不例外，除了品牌標誌性的設計，錶款具備了獨特而實用的功能——錶冠功能選擇器以及離合式可變幾何結構自動盤。錶冠功能選擇器是經由位於2點鐘位置的按鈕進行操作，輕輕一按，佩戴者即可在時間調校、日期設置和上鍊功能中進行選擇。位於3點鐘位置的指標會顯示出當下選定的功能。
Industrial Aesthetics
Stylish and distinctive, Richard Mille has always been a gem to watch collectors. The transparent watch case and the skeleton movement, stacked in layers of industrial aesthetics, establish a minute architectural masterpiece resting upon the wrist and imbue each Richard Mille piece with a bold, robust character. The latest RM 30-01 Automatic with Declutchable Rotor is no exception, as it not only features the brand’s signature design, but also incorporates unique and practical functions such as function-selector indicators and a declutchable variable-geometry rotor. Located at 2 o’clock, a push-button allows the wearer to select between hand-setting, date correction and winding functions with just a simple push, while a hand at 3 o’clock will display the selected function after being chosen.
至於「離合式可變幾何結構自動盤」則是極具實力的機械錶上鍊機制。通常自動上鍊腕錶是經由隨擺動而旋轉的自動盤進行自動上鍊，但容易因機芯過度上鍊而導致發條張力過大，為避免這狀況，傳統方式會採用一枚滑動的卡圈使發條鬆脫，以防機芯過度上鍊。但隨著卡圈長時間在發條盒內部摩擦，會在機芯內堆積碎屑，佩戴者進行高強度運動時機芯的損害便會相當嚴重。RM 30-01離合擺陀自動上鍊腕錶所使用「離合式可變幾何結構自動盤」的誕生就是為了避免這種情況，當自動盤在發條上滿鍊之後可與發條盒自動分離，絲毫不用擔心傳統自動上鍊腕錶的顧慮，即使佩戴這款腕錶在運動場上衝鋒陷陣都可以放心。
As for the declutchable variable-geometry rotor, it is a powerful automatic-winding mechanism. Typically, a self-winding wristwatch relies on a rotor that revolves with the wearer’s movements to be wound, which can cause excess tension due to over winding. To avoid the situation, a sliding flange is used to allow the spring to slip, preventing the movement from being overwound. However, this traditional system allows harmful debris to build up inside the caliber, leading to significant damage when the wearer is particularly active. The creation of the declutchable variable-geometry rotor – found in the RM-30-01 Automatic – is made to resolve this particular issue. Richard Mille’s exclusive declutchable rotor automatically disconnects from the winding barrel once the spring is fully wound. Without having to worry about traditional self-winding, the novelty is also the perfect company to athletic wearers who engage in intense physical activities.
速度之魅
在小男孩與大男人的心中，車子永遠是心中最夢幻的玩具。對於事業有成的男人來說，機械錶更是能夠時時刻刻相伴的「好麻吉」。因此，腕錶與跑車攜手打造的精品，往往能夠成為話題錶款。泰格豪雅全新計時腕錶TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche展現了經典跑車的里程碑。這一次的合作適逢TAG Heuer Carrera 系列與保時捷 911 車系（原901車系）面世六十週年，讓這款腕錶更是意義深遠，因此在錶款設計上頗有紀念意義：原創保時捷901跑車時速0～100公里加速僅需9.1秒，在當時這是相當了不起的成就，也是傳奇的911車系歷史上輝煌的里程碑。
An Ode to Speed
In the hearts of young boys and grown men, cars will forever hold their special place as the toy of their dreams. For successful business men, a mechanical watch can become a constant companion, a true “partner in crime,” which explains the popularity of special-edition pieces co-created by luxury watch and sports car brands. Coinciding with the 60th anniversary of TAG Heuer Carrera and Porsche 911 (originally the 901 series), the latest TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche showcases a milestone in classic sports cars. A commemorative masterpiece with profound meaning, the chronograph celebrates the original Porsche 901’s mythical acceleration from 0 to 100 km/h in 9.1 seconds. At the time, this was considered a technical feat and a remarkable milestone in the legendary history of the 911 series.
為了向這強勁的速度感致敬，TAG Heuer全新腕錶搭載了特別打造的全新機芯TH20-08。在計時的機制上做出首創：當中央指針啟動時會迅速地加速，並在60秒內逐漸減速，接著再迅速重啟。能夠讓中央指針創造出減速運動，是在於這款機芯的獨特機制——兩個蝸形齒輪，此款齒輪採用廣泛應用於微機電系統（MEMS）領域的LiGA尖端製程技術製作而成。錶款各處的紅色調，也是保時捷標誌性的形象。另外，不容忽視的還有計時盤指針的造型，是以儀錶板指針為靈感，錶背則採用了復刻保時捷經典三輻式方向盤的特製專屬自動盤，讓致敬意味更加濃厚。
To pay homage to this powerful sense of speed, the TAG Heuer novelty houses a specially crafted TH20-08 movement. A pioneering innovation in terms of the chronograph mechanism, the central seconds hand accelerates at the start of timing, slows down to complete a full 60 seconds and quickly restarts the whole process. The key to achieve the deceleration is the two snail-shaped wheels, which are crafted using LiGa microfabrication technology widely used in micro-electromechanical systems (MEMS). Red accents throughout the watch are a nod to the iconic representation of Porsche. In addition, the design of the subdial hands is inspired by the car’s dashboard, while the timepiece features a Porsche three-spoke steering wheel inspired rotor on the back, completing the ultimate tribute to the legendary automobile.