TEXT｜Amy Liu , TRANSLATION ｜Elaina Kung
「我們不是穿上什麼被人盯著看的奇裝異服，而是實實在在地打扮，還有打扮這件事所賦予人們的自信和時髦。我不要衣穿人，而是要人穿衣。」漫步在羅馬的大街小巷，在這裡，平凡被放大，變得不平凡；歷史與過去交織在一起而成為當下，不羈的個人風格反映出穿著者的內心世界。
“It’s not about the spectacle of being looked at but the reality of wearing and the confidence and chicness that comes with it. It’s not about being something but being someone.” says Kim Jones. A walk-through Rome, where the ordinary is amplified and becomes extraordinary; histories are intertwined with the past becoming present and where insouciant personal style reflects the inner world of the wearer.
Louis Vuitton
腳底生花
本次Louis Vuitton以熱氣球為發想，將秀場壟罩在一片橘色汽球材質的造景當中模擬熱氣球內部，隨著賓客們的呼吸，熱汽球緩緩上升，一場奇妙的旅程就開始了……。隨著輕盈的紗裙造型登場，就像打開專屬Louis Vuitton的行李箱，開始打包一切旅行的裝扮，藝術總監Nicolas Ghesquière運用如絲綢、薄紗、平紋織物等輕盈的材質，收納進行李箱時的皺褶絲毫不影響出行時的優雅搭配，值得關注的是上身充滿立體感的飛行夾克與襯衫加上輕盈紗裙，並在中段皮革腰帶增添俐落感的搭配在秀場中頻繁出現，值得讀者作為春夏旅行穿搭的模板，輕鬆打造旅途上的時髦日常。
Dancing Gracefully
Taking inspiration from hot air balloons, Louis Vuitton envelopes the runway in a setting resembling the interior of an orange hot air balloon. As the guests breathe, the hot air balloons slowly ascend, beginning a wondrous journey. Like the act of opening a Louis Vuitton suitcase designed for packing essentials on a trip, models make their entrance in lightweight chiffon outfits. Artistic Director Nicolas Ghesquière utilizes delicate materials such as silk, chiffon, and plain weaves to ensure that the wrinkles from packing do not affect the elegant ensembles. A notable factor is the frequent appearance of three-dimensional flight jackets and shirts paired with lightweight chiffon skirts, as well as sleek leather belts at the waist adding a touch of edge. This ensemble serves as a template for those who wish to effortlessly create stylish, daily travel attire for the spring and summer seasons.
華美旅行
秀場的尾聲，一件又一件條紋以及千鳥格單品的出現，讓秀場更增添一絲華麗的氣息，每道紋樣都是經由手工刺繡打造，看起來像千鳥格的外套，實際是以特殊雷射切割皮革交錯編織而成，產生自然的皺褶質感，媲美高級訂製的精美款式，隆重宣示「我的所到之處便是一場旅行」。
Glamourous Travel
Pieces with stripe and houndstooth patterns appear towards the end of the show, adding a touch of glamour to the runway; each pattern is meticulously crafted through hand embroidery. What appears to be a houndstooth pattern jacket is, in fact, made from weaving specially laser-cut leather, producing a natural wrinkled texture that matches the exquisite styles of high-end bespoke styles, boldly proclaiming, “Wherever I go is a journey.”
FENDI
色塊拼接
細看本季的設計，低飽和度的米色、大地色及藍綠色拼接高飽和度的亮橘色、深紅色色塊，看似秋季氛圍的組合，靈感取自Karl Lagerfeld所創作的FENDI 1999春夏系列，當年的由超模Devon Aoki演繹的重點洋裝款式—酸黃色塗層亞麻布襯裙，也在本季完美復刻，再搭配上不斷出現在秀場上的撞色手套，整體顯得更為摩登，通過配件達成色塊的碰撞，沉穩的大地色調遇上鮮明的色塊，反而營造出充滿羅馬風情的繽紛春色。本季更推出可折疊成手拿包的全新Flip 包款，延續服飾上的設計語言，飾有俏皮的色塊結構與招牌的F logo，有望成為2024春夏包款的IT bag。
Color Blocking
This season’s designs, inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s 1999 SS collection for FENDI, showcases an autumn-inspired palette with low-saturation colors like: beige, earth tones, and teal combined with high-saturation bright orange, as well as deep red color blocks. The main dress style from the 1999 SS collection, a lemon yellow-coated linen skirt worn by supermodel Devon Aoki, makes a reimagined appearance this season. Styled with color-blocking gloves that appear numerous times on the runway, this new look boasts a modern twist. By utilizing accessories, color blocking is achieved and through the combination of modest earth tones and bold, bright colors, the atmosphere of Roman spring is illustrated. This season also introduces a new addition to the Flip bag collection that can be folded into a clutch. Following the design pattern seen in the clothing, the bags feature playful color block structures and the signature F logo, giving it the potential to become the 2024 SS collection’s IT bag.
自由羅馬
「羅馬散發出一種從容不迫的優雅，不在意他人眼光- 真正的奢華便是如此。在這個系列中，我想表現出這一點。」FENDI高級訂製服與女裝藝術總監 Kim Jones 說。隨著身體曲線的擺動，和諧的剪裁輪廓上，或明或淡的色塊組合，正如 Kim Jones 在羅馬時感受到的那股由內而外散發的餘裕，女性為自己大方打扮，不為他人眼光而焦慮。或許我們都是羅馬的過客，但那份隨興自由的羅馬精神，將會留在FENDI的設計中，時髦又充滿鬆弛感，讓屬於春天的生機勃勃顯得毫不費力，與世界上所有FENDI女孩共同擁抱自我。
Free Rome
“In Rome, there is an elegance in ease and not caring what anybody else thinks — that is real luxury. In this collection, I wanted to reflect that.”- Kim Jones, FENDI’s Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear. The body movements, blending with harmonious tailoring and the combination of bright and subtle colors, reflects the feeling of ease that Kim Jones felt during his time in Rome, where women dressed confidently for themselves, unbothered by others’ gaze. Perhaps we are all passerby’s in Rome; however, the spontaneous and liberating Roman spirit will linger in FENDI’s designs which are chic yet relaxed and effortlessly presents the vibrant vitality of spring. Together with FENDI girls from around the world, we embrace ourselves.
Saint Laurent
春夏獵遊
在黑夜中閃耀的巴黎鐵塔前，一幅自信堅定的女性群像躍上清冷的大理石路，盡顯現代主義的伸展台上洋溢優雅法式風情。本季大膽將男裝元素轉化為女性著裝，正如Saint Laurent一如既往的設計理念，打破性別印象，回歸衣服最原始的魅力。品牌基因當中的俐落剪裁運用於秀場中大量出現的狩獵夾克與連身褲上如魚得水，即使在寬鬆的輪廓下也能看出Saint Laurent中性剪裁的美學概念。以栗子紅、橄欖綠、沙黃與粉白等色調呈現自然韻味，更貼近日常穿著。
Spring/Summer Expedition
At night, in front of the sparkling Eiffel Tower, women confidently stride down the cold marble runway, flaunting their elegant, French charm of modernism. This season, the brand boldly transforms elements of men’s fashion into women’s attire, in line with Saint Laurent’s timeless design philosophy that breaks gender stereotypes and returns to the raw allure of clothing. The safari jackets and jumpsuits seen on the runway exhibits the brand’s signature sharp tailoring, while seamlessly incorporating Saint Laurent’s gender-neutral style which is evidently shown beneath the loose silhouettes. Natural tones such as: maroon, olive green, sand yellow, and cream makes the collection a suitable choice for everyday wear.
性別碰撞
除了大地色調的中性服裝，女性化的單品與傳統意義上的男性單品在造型上的碰撞也成為秀場上的亮點之一，80年代標誌性的巨大金屬耳墜、釦飾腰帶與華麗浮誇的眼影妝容放大女性特質，同時出現飛行員眼鏡、束皮手套以及油頭造型，增添整體率性氛圍，Saint Laurent的性感英氣油然而生。
Gender Collision
In addition to the earthy neutral tones, the collision between feminine pieces and traditional masculine elements have become one of the highlights of the runway. The iconic 80s giant metallic earrings, buttoned belts, and glamorously extravagant eyeshadow makeup accentuates the feminine qualities. While the aviator glasses, leather gloves, and slicked-back hairstyles emits an overall casual atmosphere, bringing Saint Laurent’s sensual and chic ambiance to life.
BALMAIN
裙襬如花
BALMAIN的春夏新作將創辦人Pierre Balmain熱愛的玫瑰花元素大量運用於秀場當中，細節靈感則源於作家Gertrude Stein所創作的詩句〝Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.〞這句詩歌乍看毫無邏輯，其實是在展現作者對於「本質」的純粹表現， 火紅的玫瑰從專利皮革、乳膠、瓷器，甚至回收塑膠幻化成各種姿態，從鈕扣到幾何鏡框上都出現花朵的意象，型態各異卻各有滋味。
Flower-like Hem
BALMAIN’s spring-summer collection incorporates the rose, a beloved element of the founder Pierre Balmain, into the fashion show. The details are inspired by Gertrude Stein’s poem: “Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.” Though at first glance this poem may appear illogical, it’s actually an expression of the author’s representation of “essence.” The fiery red roses take on various forms – transforming from patent leather, latex, porcelain, and even recycled plastics – and appears on everything, from buttons to geometric frames, each with its own unique character.
復古玫瑰
BALMAIN以慶祝的方式創作花朵的全貌，專注於代表美麗、快樂、愛情故事的玫瑰精神，借鑑Pierre Balmain建築式的精準剪裁，並將玫瑰尖刺作為花瓣的對立面在服裝上拉扯，就如愛情的複雜性，以品牌經典符碼—波點及收腰西裝，與90年代、50年代的時裝作品跨越時空連結，孕育出一朵又一朵復古又浪漫的玫瑰。
Vintage Rose
BALMAIN celebrates the creation of flowers, focusing on the spirit of the rose, representing beauty, happiness, and love stories. They draw inspiration from Pierre Balmain’s architectural precision in tailoring and utilize rose thorns as a contrasting element on the garments, symbolizing the complexity of love. They intertwine brand classic symbols such as polka dots and waist-cinched suits with fashion pieces from the 90s and 50s, bridging across time and creating a series of vintage, romantic roses.
