enya FASHION QUEEN

2023年時尚話語權分散，現象級的流行趨勢漸退，取而代之的是多樣化「微趨勢」興起，從春夏繽紛多元的多巴胺穿搭，到秋冬爆紅的美拉德色系穿搭便可窺見一斑。在社群媒體的高度更汰之下，在特定受眾群中佔有一席之地便是現在最大的趨勢！

In 2023, there was a shift in the fashion discourse from centralized and phenomenon-level trends, to the rise of diverse “micro-trends.” Examples include the shift from the vibrant and diverse dopamine-inspired outfits in spring and summer to the popular Maillard color palette outfits in autumn and winter. In the era of heightened influence from social media, carving out a niche within specific audience groups is currently the predominant trend.

多巴胺穿搭（Dopamine Dressing）

隨著Y2K風潮席捲時尚界，露臍上衣、低腰褲、串珠項鍊等千禧年潮流又重回大眾視野，當年對新世代的希望與迷幻色彩融合，轉變成更鮮明、非二次元的「多巴胺色系」。多巴胺在大腦中帶給人愉悅感的同時，驅使人感受到愉悅時產生動機去做某件事情，又被稱為「快樂荷爾蒙」，時尚心理學教授Dawnn Karen認為從色彩學角度出發，鮮艷色彩通常能提升能量、讓心情愉悅，穿著色系大膽、花樣搶眼的服裝，能刺激多巴胺分泌改變心情，激發正面能量。

Dopamine Dressing
With Y2K sweeping the fashion realm, crop tops, low-rise pants, and beaded necklaces have once again resurged. The optimism and psychedelic colors of that era have transformed into a more vivid and non-two-dimensional “dopamine color palette.” Dopamine, known as the “happy hormone,” induces pleasure to the brain, motivating individuals to engage in activities that bring joy. According to fashion psychology professor Dawnn Karen, from the perspective of color psychology, vibrant colors ca elevate energy levels and create a sense of joy. By wearing bold and eye-catching outfits, dopamine secretion can be stimulated, altering one’s mood and inspiring positive energy.

秀場Dopamine Look

多巴胺為主題的穿搭風格通常注重色彩明亮、活潑，以表現出穿著者的歡愉，如活力四射的橙紅色、陽光明媚的黃綠色、亮麗鮮豔的藍紫色，從搭配中表現對生活的熱愛和對新奇事物的追求，秀場中可以窺見配件也是打破單調的點睛之筆，利用同色系包款、鞋履、耳環等配件，增加整體造型的統一性；對比色配飾又能夠為穿搭增添亮點，碰撞出多彩火花。不管怎麼說，展現自己對生活的熱愛和積極樂觀的態度才是多巴胺穿搭的精髓，多巴胺女孩們不要忘記笑容才是最好的穿搭配件！

Dopamine Look Runway
Dopamine-themed fashion styles typically emphasizes bright and lively colors, such as vibrant orange-red, sunny yellow-green, and dazzling blue-purple, to express the wearer’s joy. Through these combinations, individuals showcase their love for life and their pursuit of novelty. Accessories, such as bags, shoes, earrings, etc., play a crucial role in breaking monotony and enhancing the overall coherence of the look. Additionally, contrasting accessories add highlights, creating a vibrant and colorful ensemble. The essence of dopamine fashion is seen as the expression of passion for life and a positive and optimistic attitude, reminding dopamine girls that a smile is the best accessory!

非正式學院風（Preppy Style）

30年代和40年代之際，美國預科學院及常春藤聯盟的年輕人追求著全新的形象，而1920年代英國那些著名男校所流行的制服穿搭便成了所借鑒的對象。隨著各大品牌和設計師推出各種復古校園感的單品，學院風重新回到時尚舞台，充滿書卷氣的青春造型再次受到追捧！不可否認的是，學院風隨著時代的變遷也逐漸轉型，最初由Ivy Style（常春藤學院風格）打開學院風的時尚大門，強調正統菁英感，以馬術、帆船、網球等當時的新興富人運動的著裝為基礎，到2023年逐漸轉為帶有叛逆、玩世不恭氣質的優等生感的Preppy Style（非正式學院風）美學風潮。

Preppy Style
In the midst of the 1930s and 1940s, young people associated with the United States Ivy League and preparatory schools embraced a new image, drawing inspiration from the 1920s British school uniforms. As various brands and designers introduced retro campus-inspired items, the Preppy Style made a comeback on the fashion stage, gaining popularity for its scholarly and youthful appearance. Undeniably, the Preppy Style has undergone a transformation, evolving from the Ivy Style’s emphasis on traditional, elite sophistication based on sports attire such as horseback riding, sailing, tennis and others, to a more rebellious and nonchalant attitude associated with the modern style in 2023. This updated version retains the essence of academic excellence but adds a touch of playful and carefree quality.

秀場Preppy Look

KENZO 2023春夏系列可以看到別具特色的日式預科風，學院風棒球服、水手服、MODS西裝與運動褲、工裝頻繁出現。身為性感時髦學院風的先鋒，MIU MIU從2022便以超短迷你裙登上伸展台造成轟動，2023春夏秀場延續先前的設計語言加入立體口袋等改良，整體材質多用洗舊牛仔、工裝尼龍、皮革材質加重街頭元素。學院風的物換星移也藉機告訴讀者們，在鼓勵個人化穿搭的時代，無論是哪種風格，如果你能帶著更玩味的態度進行嘗試跟探索，穿搭永遠樂趣無窮！

Preppy Look Runway
The KENZO SS23 collection features a distinctive Japanese-inspired preppy style. The runway showcases various preppy baseball jackets, sailor uniforms, MODS suits paired with sports pants, and utility wear. MIU MIU, recognized as a pioneer of the sexy and chic preppy style, caused a sensation in 2022 by introducing ultra-short mini skirts, and the SS23 runway continues this design language with added improvements like three-dimensional pockets. The overall materials include distressed denim, utility nylon, and leather, emphasizing streetwear elements. The evolution of the preppy style signifies a changing landscape. It encourages readers to embrace individualized fashion, regardless of the style, and that experimenting and exploring with a more playful attitude can bring endless joy to the art of dressing up.

美拉德穿搭（Maillard Style）

從夏天的多巴胺穿搭一路進展到沉靜的秋冬時節，「美拉德穿搭」開始搶占大眾視野，「美拉德」源自於「梅納反應」（Maillard Reaction）意即食物中蛋白質與碳水化合物受熱發生的一種焦化現象，從肉類的焦褐外皮發展出焦糖色、咖啡色、紅棕色調等一系列穿搭重點色，不同深淺的美拉德色系看似單調實則舒適和諧、恰如其分，尤其是暖色調的復古風格適配各種膚色，更能體現秋冬別樣的溫暖熱烈。

Maillard Style
From the dopamine dressing of summer, to the serene autumn and winter seasons, the Maillard Style begins to capture public attention. Maillard is derived from the Maillard Reaction, which refers to the browning phenomenon that occurs when proteins and carbohydrates are heated. This reaction results in a range of colors such as caramel, coffee, and reddish-brown. The Maillard Style emphasizes these colors, and despite appearing monotonous, they are comfortable, harmonious, and well-balanced. Particularly in the warm tones, the retro style complements various skin tones and embodies a unique warmth and enthusiasm for the autumn and winter seasons.

秀場Maillard Look

美拉德穿搭與大地色系的經典流行差別在於美拉德穿搭強調「質感」與「色彩」上的搭配，例如：羔羊毛外套內搭分量輕盈的裙裝、皮草大衣與薄透針織、襯衫結合營造質感豐富的完整穿搭；色彩運用上則分為兩類：一為整體穿搭上運用紅棕色、姜黃色等相近色調讓全身搭配邏輯自洽，非常適合通勤穿搭；另一類則以嫩粉色、天藍色等亮色系單品點綴在整體穿搭上，進階玩家們不妨嘗試挑戰上身搭配。

Maillard Look Runway
The difference between Maillard Style and the classic earth-tone style lies in how the Maillard Style emphasizes the coordination of “texture” and “color.” For example, pairing a lamb wool coat with a lightweight dress, and combining fur coats with sheer knits or shirts creates a complete and rich-textured outfit. In terms of color, Maillard Style can be divided into two categories: one involves using reddish-brown and ginger yellow for an overall logically cohesive look, perfect for daily commuting. The other incorporates bright colors like pastel pink and sky blue as accents in the overall ensemble, providing a more advanced styling option for those willing to take on the challenge.

老錢風（Old Money Aesthetic）

要說社群軟體上颳起真正意義上流量旋風的一定是老錢風穿搭，簡而言之，「老錢Old Money」與「新錢New Money」的主要區別在於他們獲取財富的方式，老錢原本指的是美國東岸生活的富人透過家族世代積累，過著富足的生活，而新錢則是靠自己白手起家後過上的富豪生活，如西海岸的運動、娛樂明星等新貴族群。老錢風穿搭，是指經過幾代財富、學識積累的名門望族式穿搭風格，他們的日常造型低調貴氣、優雅得體，更注重衣服的品質、和品牌所附帶的精神素養,久而久之就形成了一種穿搭美學。

Old Money Aesthetic
The Old Money Style has gained significant attention on social media platforms. In essence, the key distinction between Old Money and New Money lies in the way they acquire wealth. Old Money traditionally refers to affluent individuals on the East Coast of the United States who have accumulated wealth over generations, leading a life of prosperity through family lineage. On the other hand, New Money refers to self-made wealthy individuals, such as sports and entertainment stars on the West Coast. Old Money Style represents a style of aristocrats who have accumulated wealth and knowledge through several generations. Their daily outfits are characterized by a subtle, sophisticated, and elegant demeanor, placing emphasis on the quality of clothing and the cultural values associated with the brands, ultimately forming a unique aesthetic in fashion.

秀場 Old Money Aesthetic

隨著現代人的穿搭越來越注重功能和舒適性,讓許多老錢風品牌重返大眾的日常衣櫥。這種時尚和知識分子風格結合的單品,可以表現在清冷感襯衫、復古馬甲、合身西裝、長版大衣等單品上。色彩以卡其色、無色系的色調為主，更講求布料舒適度，偏愛棉質、羊毛、羊絨等沒有明顯光澤的天然面料，從穿搭氣場中透漏自在放鬆的鬆弛感。老錢風可說是回歸實用主義本身，更注重衣服剪裁及工藝，將穿戴者的感受視為最奢侈的高級，做出安靜又不失力量的個性表達。

Old Money Aesthetic Runway
Old Money-style brands have resurged in the everyday wardrobes of the public, driven by the emphasis on functionality and comfort in modern fashion. Combining sophistication with an intellectual style, this fashion trend is evident in items such as crisp shirts, vintage vests, well-fitted suits, and long coats. The color palette predominantly features khaki tones and neutral shades, with a focus on comfortable fabrics like cotton, wool and cashmere that lack noticeable shine. Old Money Style is characterized by a return to utilitarianism, prioritizing clothing cuts and craftsmanship. It places a premium on the wearer’s experience, considering it the most luxurious aspect of high-end fashion, resulting in a quiet yet powerful expression of individuality.