
Text by Lynn Tan ∣ Translation by Elaina Kung
12月的街道,充滿著聖誕節慶一閃一滅的燈光。走在這一片明燦之光與繽紛綺麗之間,心都跟著飛揚了起來。現在,就抱著雀躍的心走進派對之中,讓自己融入這一片璀璨之境吧!
The streets of December dazzle with sparkling lights of Christmas festivities, and our hearts soar with joy as we walk amidst the enchanting glow. Now, stride towards the party with a joyful heart and immerse yourself in this captivating realm!

優游燦影
TIFFANY & CO.秋季所呈現的Out of the Blue幻海秘境系列,是2023年Blue Book系列的第二篇章,延續著全系列描繪具象與抽象的線條交錯,並且繼前次幻海秘境系列之後將水中百態延伸更多視覺的想像。如「深海星芒」(Star Urchin)作品,將紅玉髓手工雕刻出棘狀搭配白鑽,精彩演繹海膽外張的力道。再有數款「魚躍光影」(Pisces)作品,以天然未經優化處理的帕帕拉夏藍寶石做為視覺主角,結合細膩的金工,呈現出活靈活現的魚形胸針或手環,以及抽象寫意風格詮釋魚鱗的耳環作品。「花舞海葵」(Sea Anemone)手環自乍看至細觀都是驚喜。總重超過9克拉的藍色銅鋰碧璽,如悠藍海色,搭配鑽石與綠松石,以顫動式鑲嵌工藝(en tremblant),同時運用鑽石尖底朝外的倒轉鑲嵌,整體呈現海葵的尖刺質感的同時,也更具波光粼粼的光燦效果。

Poised and Brilliant
The Out of the Blue Collection by TIFFANY & CO., presented in the fall, is the second chapter of the 2023 Blue Book series. It continues the series’ depiction of intertwining concrete and abstract lines, extending the visual imagination beyond the myriad expressions of water following the previous Out of the Blue Collection. For example, the Star Urchin presents intricately carved spikes made out of ruby, and paired with white diamonds, it vividly portrays the power of an expanding sea urchin.
Pisces often features natural, untreated Padparadscha as the visual focal point, combining delicate gold-work to create realistic, fish-shaped brooches or bracelets; it also features abstract interpretations of fish scale earrings. Upon closer inspection, the Sea Anemone bracelet is full of a delightful surprises. With a total weight exceeding 9 carats, the blue paraiba tourmaline, resembling the blue sea, is paired with diamonds and turquoise. Utilizing the en tremblant technique, and the inverted setting with the diamond pointed outward, this piece illustrates the textured sea anemone spikes, while presenting a shimmering effect.

水光交織
TASAKI全新頂級珠寶系列Nature Spectacle以六個主題描繪光、月、海的交織。其中模擬海岸線的flourish主題作品,將珍珠溫潤的光澤融匯寶石清麗的色彩,運用各色藍寶石、粉紅摩根石和碧璽,以馬賽克狀不規則的前後層次拼接鑲嵌。珍珠則是相連串成微微的曲線,與各種微透著光的寶石相融,演繹海浪拍打岸邊的海岸景致。珍珠化為岸邊綿延的浪花、寶石所散發的粉色調視覺則詮釋了海的浪漫。Ocean Light主題作品則是以白蝶南洋珍珠與黑蝶南洋珍珠描繪月夜海岸的光。黑蝶南洋珍珠與黃色碧璽、藍色鋯石魚貫鑲嵌成排,象徵海洋表面反射著月光的閃爍光芒。白蝶南洋珍珠和阿古屋珍珠則是黑暗中綿延閃動的浪花,長版項鍊的設計,讓垂墜在胸前的珍珠成為服飾的一部分,既優雅又搶眼的視覺效果絕對會讓佩戴者顯得更加卓爾不群。

Entwined Water and Light
TASAKI’s new high jewelry collection, Nature Spectacle, portrays the interaction between the light, the moon, and the sea through six different themes. The flourish theme, which imitates the coastline of the sea, blends the lustrous glow of pearls with various shades of sapphires, pink morganite, and tourmalines to create a mosaic, layered effect. The pearls form gentle curves, seamlessly blending with the gemstones, painting the image of waves crashing against the shore. The pearls symbolize the foamy waves and when combined with the gemstones’ pink hues, the romantic essence of the sea is beautifully presented.
In the Ocean Light theme, the collection depicts the moonlit shoreline using white and black Tahitian pearls. Black Tahitian pearls, yellow tourmaline, and blue zircon are intricately arranged in rows, symbolizing the shimmering reflections of moonlight on the ocean’s surface. On the other hand, white Tahitian pearls and Akoya pearls represent the sparkling waves in the darkness. The long necklace design blends the pendant pearls into the attire, creating an elegant and eye-catching look, allowing the wearer to stand out in the crowd.

鑽光錦簇
海瑞溫斯頓Winston Cluster系列運用鑽石以及珍貴寶石的鑲嵌,共構出歡樂且繽紛的氛圍,品牌這項Cluster工藝是將寶石鑲嵌於幾乎看不到底座的小巧金屬上,使得鑽石或是寶石彷彿漂浮於空中,清靈而澄澈。同時也能讓鑽石擁有最好的光線折射,讓整件作品呈現立體感。例如經典的Wreath鑽石項鍊運用馬眼形、水滴形、圓形鑽石的鑲嵌結合Cluster工藝,以及鑽石鑲嵌角度的精心配置,使項鍊呈現出層次交疊的立體深度,有如鑽石打造的聖誕花圈。Winston Cluster系列還有以鑽石分別搭配鑲嵌粉紅剛玉、藍寶石、紅寶石、祖母綠的墜鍊或戒指,融匯了Cluster工藝的輕盈感以及鮮麗色彩的活力。

A Dazzling Cluster
The Winston Cluster Collection by Harry Winston utilizes diamonds and precious gemstone inlays to create a joyful and vibrant atmosphere. The brand’s Cluster technique involves placing gemstones on tiny metal structures, with an almost invisible base, creating an ethereal illusion of diamonds or gemstones floating in the air. At the same time, this technique allows diamonds to have optimal light refraction, displaying a three-dimensional effect on the entire piece. For example, the classic Diamond Wreath Necklace utilizes the Cluster technique, combining marquise-shaped, pear-shaped, and round diamonds with carefully arranged angles; this creates a layered, three-dimensional depth, resembling a Christmas wreath. The Winston Cluster series also includes pendants or rings featuring diamonds combined with inlaid pink sapphire, sapphire, ruby, and emerald; this seamlessly blends the lightness of the Cluster technique with the vibrant, dazzling colors.

交織光燦
或許曾經有一個片刻,你的腦中突然浮現一個念想:出現在生命篇章裡的每一個角色都具有意義,即使在路上只有一面之緣的人說出的一句話,也許對於你當下心裡的疑惑都有如醍醐灌頂。於是,人生裡每一個轉角與陌生人的相遇,都不僅僅只是一個轉角,而是人生裡的一次轉折。GRAFF以源於大地的瑰寶鑽石與寶石,探索這些人生相交點在生命裡的意義,推出Threads系列。看似漫不經意地排列每一顆鑽石與寶石,但其實都是精心的鋪排,以不同角度的鑲嵌呈現最美麗的交織,如人生當中與人群的相會。
在茫茫人海與眾人相遇之中,總有那麼些人會停駐在我們生命裡長久的時光,在平常日子中相伴、在節慶中一同歡唱。對於本月即將到來的聖誕佳節,這些身影值得我們為她們挑選最璀璨的珠寶,GRAFF經典的系列Tilda’s Bow佳節氣息濃厚,透過精湛的金工將蝴蝶結塑造出如柔軟緞帶起伏的立體曲線。其他各式鑲嵌珍貴寶石的作品,包含祖母綠、紅寶石、黃鑽和白鑽等,在荷蘭模特兒Rianne Van Rompaey的佩戴演繹當中,優雅而沉靜地綻放寶石火光與鑽石的光燦。

Interwoven Radiance
The idea that every individual we encounter in our life holds a certain meaning and significance has perhaps popped in your mind before. Even a fleeting encounter with a stranger could offer profound insights to certain problems. Thus, every turn and encounter in life can be seen as pivotal moments of transformation. GRAFF, using Earth’s precious diamonds and gemstones as their inspiration, introduced the Threads Collection which explores the meaning of human connections. Although the arrangement appears casual, each diamond and gemstone is meticulously laid out to present the most beautiful interweaving from different angles, similar to the encounters in life.
Among the vast number of encounters in our lifetime, there are those special ones that stay for an extended period of time, celebrating and living life together with us. With the arrival of Christmas this month, these individuals deserve the most radiant jewelry selections. GRAFF’s classic Tilda’s Bow Collection features skillfully crafted bows with butterfly-like curves, exuding a rich festive atmosphere. Other pieces, featuring gemstone inlays of: emeralds, rubies, yellow diamonds and white diamonds, elegantly and serenely radiates brilliance on the Dutch model Rianne Van Rompaey.

絕然燦麗
卓爾不群的鑲嵌工藝造就出品牌獨特的風格,例如義大利頂級珠寶DAMIANI Mimosa系列以美感與和諧為基調,運用如馬賽克般層次錯落有致地鑲鑽鋪陳,成就出DAMIANI標誌性的作品,叢聚的鑽石本身便是設計的要角。至於Absolute高級訂製珠寶系列則是另一番風情。如同DAMIANI的每一件珠寶,Absolute高級訂製珠寶系列也是由金工重鎮Valenza資深工匠純手工打造,選擇出最適合、最優異的單顆彩寶主石為主軸,在周圍鑲嵌白鑽,讓中央的寶石成為最出色的主角。有時會使用多枚花式切割白鑽,華麗堆疊與錯落的樣貌,與彩寶主石交織出靈動美態。經典作品Absolute Special Classic系列有鉑金與黃金材質的紅寶石、祖母綠作品之外,也有多款以Rainbow為名的18K白金彩寶鑲鑽戒指,包含綠柱石、紫水晶、孔賽石、碧璽、尖晶石、丹泉石等各種繽紛燦麗的寶石。

Absolute Splendor
DAMIANI’s unique style derives from their distinctive craftsmanship, which is demonstrated in the Mimosa Collection. This top-tier Italian jewelry brand focuses on beauty and harmony, and utilizes mosaic-like layering of diamonds to create their iconic pieces; however, the Absolute Special Classic Collection presents a different charm. Like every one of DAMIANI’s jewelry pieces, the Absolute Collection is meticulously handcrafted by skilled artisans from Valenza, Italy. This collection selects the most suitable and outstanding colored gemstones as the centerpiece, and embraces it with white diamonds, allowing it to shine like the main character. Also, sometimes multiple fancy-cut white diamonds are intertwined with colored gemstones to create a magnificent and intricate appearance. The Absolute Special Classic Collection not only features platinum and gold pieces paired with rubies and emeralds, but also includes various 18K white gold ‘Rainbow’ gemstone and diamond rings, featuring: beryl, amethyst, kunzite, tourmaline, spinel, and tanzanite.

派對焦點
Party Queen!如果在派對當中有票選派對女王的橋段,絕對 必備一款Chaumet冠冕。Firmament de Minuit 18K白金冠冕的視覺主軸為鑲嵌著明亮式切割鑽石的閃耀五角星,每一枚五角星中央的圓鑽周圍再以細鑽圍繞,增添星光的璀璨。除了髮際上的五角星,繽紛的Passages 18K白金耳環,則是圍繞著帕拉依巴碧璽點綴幾許四角星光,搭配鑲鑽的漩渦狀金質蜿蜒向上延伸到耳垂處,彷彿是用寶石與鑽石在耳際訴說宇宙的秘密。若妳期待一款比漩渦狀曲線更加浪漫的線條,那麼,Soleil de Minuit 18K白金胸針如光芒又似花瓣開展的輪廓有著更加柔美的氣息。一道道微彎的金質,外側鑲鑽、內側鑲嵌彩色寶石,再有各式彩色寶石在其中漾著光——梨形藍色尖晶石、梨形金綠寶石、梨形藍碧璽、梨形紅色尖晶石、圓形藍寶石、玫瑰榴石。再有一枚主石達18.47克拉的枕形切割紅色尖晶石包覆其中,待人探尋這隱藏其中的珍寶。

The Heart of the Party
Party Queen! If a queen were to be chosen at a party, it would definitely be the Chaumet tiara. The visual focus of the Firmament de Minuit 18K White Gold Tiara are the dazzling five-pointed stars inlaid with brilliant-cut diamonds. At the center of each star sits a large, round, diamond embraced by smaller diamonds, adding to the brilliance. In addition to the tiara, the colorful Passages 18K White Gold Earrings features Paraiba tourmalines embellished with several small, four-pointed stars, as well as diamond-set swirls that extends upwards to the earlobe; it is as if the gems and diamonds are whispering the secrets of the universe to the wearer. If you prefer something more romantic than swirls, the Soleil de Minuit 18K White Gold Brooch is a softer choice as it resembles the unfolding petals of a flower. The gentle folds of the gold, set with diamonds on the outside and colored gemstones on the inside, are illuminated by various gemstones such as — pear-shaped blue spinel, pear-shaped chrysoberyl, pear-shaped blue tourmaline, pear-shaped red spinel, round sapphire, rhodolite, and lastly the main stone, an 18.47 carat cushion-cut red spinel, embraced and concealed by the others like a hidden treasure

水都風光
地中海的天光水色、人文風貌,在寶格麗對於色彩鋪陳的層次對比、清透交織,微縮至肌膚上的一方繽紛與璀璨。鑲嵌綠松石、紅碧璽的BVLGARI Mediterranea系列Venetian Fantasy頂級彩寶與鑽石項鍊,令人聯想到水都的藍天碧水與浪漫落日。而項鍊上所鑲嵌總重約76.00克拉的7顆梨形切割紅碧璽(Rubellite),更是不同於一般「紅色的碧璽」。必須達到一定的顏色級別、色調才可以稱為Rubellite紅碧璽。另一款BVLGARI Mediterranea系列頂級彩寶與鑽石項鍊則以紅碧璽搭配各色碧璽以及紫水晶、坦桑石、海水藍寶、摩根石等,呈現出繽紛綺麗之境,讓人憶起威尼斯那一塊色彩紛陳的彩色島Burano。

Waterside Scenery
The colors of the sky and water of the Mediterranean are intricately layered and transparently interwoven in Bulgari’s color palette, condensing into a vibrant and dazzling display on the skin. The BVLGARI Mediterranea Collection ‘Venetian Fantasy’ Colored Gemstone and Diamond Necklace, inlaid with turquoise and rubellite, paints images of the blue skies, clear waters, and romantic sunsets of the city in one’s mind. The necklace is inlaid with seven pear-cut rubellites, weighing a total of approximately 76.00 carats. In order for a red spinel to be classified as a rubellite, it must obtain a certain color grade and tone. Another colored gemstone and diamond necklace piece from the BVLGARI Mediterranea Collection features the pairing of rubellite with other colored spinels, as well as amethyst, green tourmaline, aquamarine, and morganite, illustrating a vividly beautiful landscape reminiscent of the island of Burano in Venice.

繽紛狂想
有時候,在最鬱悶的時代,反而是創造繽紛之境的機緣:Boucheron寶詩龍創意總監Claire Choisne在疫情封城的時刻,對於珠寶設計再有大膽出格的創想,以More is More系列帶領藏家跳脫對於珠寶的想像,以及對於材質運用的可能性。這一次不僅是在主題架構上的跳脫,更改變了對於珠寶賞玩的立體維度,以及在剎那之間對於虛實之間的界定。例如重現熨燙布貼紋理的胸針,使得品牌經典作品Jack,以及新款胸針作品「飛蟬」(Cicada)、「三色堇」(Pansy)有如立體的刺繡。而總長29公分的Tie The Knot蝴蝶結造型作品,可做為髮飾與胸針佩戴,外觀上奔放的線條,以及邊線染成黑色有如用毛氈筆加粗輪廓般的視覺,讓整件珠寶彷彿是從普普藝術繪畫裡躍出畫框的作品。
More is More系列的材質運用也是巧妙而創新,例如Tie The Knot作品的材質結合了輕盈兼顧永續發展的生物醋酸纖維(bio acetate),以及高級珠寶界首次選用的鎂金屬。鎂的密度比黃金輕10 倍,因此做為大件珠寶也為佩戴者提供輕盈的感受。此外,自80年代開始聞名世界的「魔術方塊」,也化身為此系列以鋁和白金打造的項鍊,在灰色與粉紅色尖晶石、粉紅藍寶石和鑽石等各材質的色彩與質地架構之下,繽紛的立方體項鍊成為搶眼的珠寶配飾。More is More系列就連佩戴方式都有前衛創想,例如Pull Me作品可以是耳環,也可以成為連帽上衣的拉繩。再有In The Pocket作品,沙弗萊石密鑲搭配飾漆處理的手鐲,搭配一片「口袋飾件」,這片口袋是以3D列印技術製作出鈦金屬再固定於彈性布料上,接著再從服飾內面以磁鐵固定,成為一塊珠寶口袋,將珠寶的意義拓展到了生活中更多的面向。

Vivid Reverie
Sometimes, it is during the most trying times when opportunities arise to create a riot of colors. During the lockdown of the pandemic, Boucheron’s Creative Director, Claire Choisne, demonstrated bold and unconventional ideas in jewelry design with the More is More collection. This collection not only breaks collectors away from conventional jewelry expectations and explores the possibilities of materials, but also alters the three-dimensional element of jewelry appreciation, and transforms the boundary between reality and illusion. For example, a brooch that recreates the texture of ironed fabric adds a new dimension to the brand’s classic piece, Jack, as well as new works like Cicada and Pansy, creating a three-dimensional embroidery. The 29 centimeter Tie The Knot bow-shaped piece can be worn as both a hair accessory or brooch. The bold lines and black-dyed edges creates a thickened contour reminiscent of a felt-tip pen, making it as if the entire piece appeared out of a pop art painting.
The materials used in the More is More Collection are both clever and innovative. For example, Tie The Knot combines lightweight and sustainable bio-acetate with magnesium—a metal introduced for the first time in the realm of high jewelry. Since magnesium is ten times lighter than gold, it provides wearers with a lightweight feel, even when it comes to larger jewelry pieces. Additionally, a necklace in this collection is inspired by the famous Rubik’s Cube from the 1980s, crafted from aluminum and white gold. Beneath the combination of various materials such as: gray and pink spinel, pink sapphire, and diamonds, the colorful cubic necklace becomes an eye-catching accessory. The More is More Collection also incorporates avant-garde ideas in the way it is worn. For instance, Pull Me can be worn as earrings or it can serve as drawstrings for a hoodie. Another piece, In The Pocket, is a bracelet set with tsavorite and lacquer finishing, paired with a ‘pocket accessory.’ This pocket is crafted from titanium using 3D printing technology; it is first fixed onto an elastic fabric, then secured from the inside of the garment with magnets, creating a piece that expands the meaning of jewelry into various aspects of life.

發表迴響