Text Lynn Tan ∣ Translation Eugenia Yang
米其林星級廚房內，時間轉瞬即逝，分秒必爭。對於時間，江振誠有一番見解。「我們沒有辦法決定時間的長度，但是我們能夠決定時間的濃淡輕重。在某個時間應該把自己放慢，很專注地做一件事情；某個時段又可以轉速很快、思考很快，才能夠有效率的把事情完成。」
In a Michelin-starred kitchen, time slips away in the blink of an eye, as each and every second races against the clock. Regarding time, André Chiang shares his unique perspective – “We can never control the length of time, but we can determine its depth and significance. At certain times, we should slow down and focus on one singular task; at others, we have to speed up and think fast in order to complete what we’re doing efficiently.”
工藝古城，邂逅老宅
善於掌握時間的江振誠，為自己打造出厚度紮實的精采人生。習慣於廚房內快速步調的他，也享受金澤城所散發的從容，他在臉書貼文中有句話這麼說著：時間靜止的金澤。「在金澤不太會注意時間這件事情，這個城市對我來說最大的特色是生活感很強。第一次去的時候覺得自己不像是遊客，像是生活在那裡。」這個城市豐富的涵養、內蘊低調的氣息也深深吸引著江振誠。「金澤是一個文化的工藝重鎮，許多日本第一的職人工藝都在金澤。整座城有著如此的魅力，會讓你很想再挖掘更多的東西，有太多日本第一的工藝都在金澤，但這城市從不表現、從不說，我覺得是一個文化底蘊很深的城市。」對於金澤的情感，讓江振誠毅然決然購置屬於自己的空間。「我跟兩個好朋友旅遊時發現這個城市帶給我們安定的感覺，旅途結束最後一天決定要尋找三間連在一起的房子，就像三個人的友誼一樣，友誼常存，可以一起住在那。差不多半天的時間我們就找到三間連在一起的房子，因此命名『三間屋』。」
建於明治期間的三間屋還在修復的過程，江振誠便與後來命名「城堡」的建築相遇。從位於半山腰的三間屋走下蜿蜒小徑到十字路口，城堡就在眼前小山坡上，他的內心很快與建築有所連結，嚮往能夠買下。這座建於大正七年1918年的房子，過去是金澤最老的和菓子「高砂屋」總店，起初高砂屋的阿嬤屋主惜屋念情，不肯出售給任何人。半年多之後，修繕三間屋的町屋修復師正好與屋主熟識，允諾會由他親自修復，再加上江振誠同是料理人的因緣，就這樣成為房子的新主人。命名｢城堡」的靈感相關直觀：佇立於小山坡上，加上屋子有一面的下方墊著建蓋金澤城剩餘的石材，整體確實有城堡之姿。
這兩次購置老宅經驗，正如江振誠在《初心》中所分享遇到夢想餐廳空間的心境：「命運也許就是會帶著人們朝向充滿美好風景的方向走」。對於卓越的事業，他有志竟成；對於購置老宅的機緣，他心想事成。這也令人想起 《牧羊少年奇幻之旅》一書精髓——當你真心渴望某樣東西時，整個宇宙都會聯合起來幫助你完成。
依據傳統町屋修復的「三間屋」加上「金澤石引城堡」約花費三年修復。城堡內五個空間也以金澤所在地石川縣的傳統顏色「加賀五彩」做為主色調——胭脂紅、土黃、古代紫、草綠、靛藍。並擺放許多彰顯金澤最優異的工藝作品，包含九谷燒瓷器、輪島塗漆器、精工金箔、Secca吊燈、出自名藝術家每田健治的加賀友禪。江振誠還打造了輪島塗的桌子，「因為我希望這個空間的每一樣東西都跟金澤有關。」
跳脫框架，活化城鎮
修復的美麗老宅也提供民宿功能，那麼會建議旅者如何體驗這個城市呢？「金澤有很多文化景點的事物，以腳踏車代步就可以感受這舒服的環境，我覺得一個星期就可以玩得很透徹。」三間屋與城堡位處金澤的「石引」，再往上是金澤城。舊時皇族為了躲避戰爭前往金澤，石引正好在城下，建屋所需的石材便會存放在此，於是得名「石引」。當時使用於建造達官顯貴居所的石料仍有些遺留，因此走在街道上可以感覺到猶存著皇城的餘韻。
至於味蕾的饗宴又會是如何呢？「三間屋沒有提供飲食，我們希望能夠活化當地。希望客人到金澤或是三間屋的時候，可以到附近的餐廳、咖啡廳消費。金澤約有將近二十家米其林餐廳，我們可以安排客人在預約困難的店用膳。」漫步夕陽灑下光燦的金澤後，細細品味星級餐廳的精緻料理，讓味蕾的步調也能夠慢下來。他繼續與我們分享這份活化當地的使命感，「我們修復老宅時，發現日本當地有很多的城市都面臨城市老齡化，很有歷史性的房子慢慢凋零。我最希望的是能夠保留老宅之外，也幫助當地的產業——町屋修復師、傳統日式庭院園藝設計師、建築師、室內設計師，一起做這計畫，慢慢成為一個更有意義的事情，活化這個區域為當地創造更多的機會。日本許多城市都是老齡化，但是金澤的年輕人卻是回流的。」
大眾刻板印象中，「米其林名廚」的志業限於食物之境。然而，江振城對於活化城市這件使命，不僅是一件深具意義、大格局的志業，也再次見證跳脫框架的他對於「人生沒有疆界」寫出的嶄新篇章。
Encountering Old Houses in the City of Artisans
Skilled at time management, Chiang has been building an enriching life for himself. Despite being accustomed to the fast pace of working in the kitchen, he still finds pleasure in the tranquility of Kanazawa City, as he wrote in a Facebook post – it feels like time stops in Kanazawa. “In Kanazawa, you don’t really pay attention to time. What stood out in the city is its sense of life. During my first visit, I didn’t feel like a tourist; I felt like a local.” Deeply attracted to the rich cultural heritage and understated atmosphere of the city, Chiang describes: “Kanazawa is a cultural craftsmanship hub, where many of Japan’s best artisans reside. The charm of the city makes you want to dig a little deeper to discover more. There are so many top-tier crafts in Kanazawa, yet the city never shows off. To me, it is a place with profound cultural heritage.” His emotional connection to the city led him to the decision of purchasing a space of his own. “When I was traveling with two of my good friends, we all felt a sense of stability in the city. So on the last day of our trip, we decided to find three connecting houses that symbolize the long-standing friendship between three best friends. In about half a day, we found the perfect location and named it ‘Mitsumaya (Three Houses).’”
In the process of restoring Mitsumaya, which was built during the Meiji period, Chiang encountered another building, later named “Castle.” Walking down from Mitsumaya – located halfway up the hill – by taking the winding path and reaching a crossroad, one will notice the Castle comes into view as it sits on a small hill ahead. Struck by the scene, his heart immediately felt a connection with the building and the desire to acquire it. The house, built in 1918 during the 7th year of Taisho era, was formerly the original store of Kanazawa’s oldest confectionery, Takasagoya. Initially, the owner of the century-old shop held on to sentiment values and was unwilling to sell the place to anyone. However, after six months, the machiya restorer in charge of house repair, who happened to be acquainted with the owner, promised to personally restore the building. Considering the fact that Chiang also worked in the culinary field, the owner finally agreed to sell the place. The inspiration behind naming the place Castle was quite intuitive – standing on a small hill, with a lower part of the house adorned with the remaining stones used in constructing Kanazawa Castle, the house truly embodies the appearance of a castle, as a whole.
These experiences of acquiring old houses reflect Chiang’s mindset in Original Intention, in which he shares his first encounter with the space for his dream restaurant: “Fate may lead people towards the direction where the beautiful sceneries are.” For his outstanding career, he aimed and achieved; for the opportunity to purchase old houses, he dreamed and wishes came true. This reminds one of the essence of The Alchemist – when you genuinely want something, the entire universe will work in unison to help achieve it.
Restoring Mitsumaya according to machiya guidelines and the Castle took approximately three years. The interior of the Castle consists of five spaces designed using traditional colors, known as Kaga-gosai, of Ishikawa Prefecture – dark crimson, yellow ocher, ancient purple, fresh green, and indigo. Exceptional craftworks that showcase Kanazawa’s finest can be found on display as well, including Kutani ware, Wajima Nuri lacquerware, Seiko gold foil, Secca chandeliers and Kaga-Yuzen by the hands of renowned artist Kenji Maida. Chiang even crafted tables using Waijuma Nuri lacquer, “Because I want everything in this space to be related to Kanazawa.”
Going Beyond Boundaries to Revitalize the Town
Since the beautifully restored houses also serve as guesthouses, how would you recommend travelers experience this city? “Kanazawa offers numerous cultural attractions and traveling by bicycle allows you to enjoy its comfortable environment. I think one week is enough to really explore the city.” Mitsumaya and the Castle are both located in Ishibiki, which is right below Kanazawa Castle. In ancient times, the imperial family sought refuge in Kanazawa during warfare and Ishibiki, being just below the castle, became the place where stones needed for construction were stored. Hence the name, Ishibiki, meaning stone drawn. Even till now, the stones used in building the royal residences imbue the streets with a lingering sense of refined nobility.
And what about satisfying the appetite? “Mitsumaya doesn’t provide dining services because we wish to revive the local scene. We hope that when guests visit Kanazawa or Mitsumaya, they will frequent nearby restaurants and cafes. There are actually nearly 20 Michelin-starred restaurants in the city and we can accommodate guests to dine at the ones that are difficult to get a reservation for.” After strolling through Kanazawa during the golden hour, taking the time to savor the exquisite cuisine offered at these Michelin-starred restaurants slows down the pace for the palate. Chiang continues to share his sense of mission when it comes to revitalizing the local area. “When we were restoring the houses, we discovered that many cities in Japan are facing urban aging, with historic houses gradually declining. What I hope for the most is not only just preserving old houses, but also supporting local industries – machiya restorers, traditional Japanese garden designers, architects, interior designers and more. Together, this project will slowly become a meaningful endeavor and create more opportunities through the process of revitalization. Though many cities in Japan are aging, the young people are still returning to Kanazawa.”
In a stereotypical sense, a Michelin-starred chef is confined to the realm of culinary. However, André Chiang’s dedication to revive cities is not just a profoundly meaningful and large-scale venture, but also a testament, once again, to how he is able to break free from boundaries and write a brand chapter in the belief that life has no limitations. Absolutely none.
發表迴響