Text By Lynn Tan ｜ Translation By Elaina Kung
鐘錶收藏是一門刁鑽的嗜好，當已經納入各款頂級製錶的極致好物之後，收藏盒內似乎總有一個空間，是預留給「最特別的一款」。結合機芯工藝與視覺創意的獨立製錶，彷彿是收藏的最後一塊拼圖，腕錶收藏盒因其加入而完整了一切。
Watch collecting is a sophisticated passion, and even after the epitome of various top-tier timepieces are acquired, there is still a space reserved for the “most special one.” Independent watchmaking, the blending of movement craftsmanship with visual creativity, is like the final puzzle piece of the collection, completing the collector’s box.
將腕錶律動氣勢最大化——JACOB & CO.
創立於紐約的頂奢品牌JACOB & CO.，除了在腕錶工藝與嶄新創意有著震懾人心的呈現，寶石鑲工也是格外地卓越，這是由於品牌創始人Jacob Arabo起初是珠寶學徒的背景，對於機械錶的喜愛與熱情而讓他投入製錶領域，2006年甚至進一步在日內瓦設立製錶工坊，Jacob Arabo是一個名符其實的追夢者，創立至今呈現的腕錶各個精彩、各個是經典，完整地體現品牌的精神——Inspired by the Impossible（靈感來自不可能）。膾炙人心的多款錶款包括了：直立式陀飛輪的 Quenttin 腕錶，串聯7個發條盒達31日超長動力；以早期火車站和機場常見機械翻牌式（Split Flap）時刻表為靈感的Epic SF24世界時區手錶；演繹電影《教父》主題曲的Opera Godfather音樂盒手錶。以及結合多軸陀飛輪與天體行星儀合而為一的 Astronomia天體陀飛輪，這款也延伸出多款腕錶，其中包含在面盤加入有著輪盤遊戲的Astronomia Casino腕錶。
每一款在精湛的機芯工藝當中都展現著動態的活力感，與超跑大廠BUGATTI聯名的腕錶Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron所傳遞的生命力更是令人感到更加熱血奔騰。從錶殼設計到具備空間感與立體度的錶盤，都將傳奇超跑Bugatti Chiron淋漓盡致地重現於一款腕錶上。尤其6點鐘位置模擬了車款的 W16 型引擎，上滿鍊後啟動裝置可以看到錶款內16具曲軸、活塞的作動，一次滿鍊則可運作24秒，同時搭配著12點鐘位置60秒飛行陀飛輪的運作，讓整款腕錶律動的張力更加磅薄。
Maximizing the Momentum of Wristwatches — JACOB & CO.
JACOB & CO., the luxury brand founded in New York, is known for its impressive craftsmanship and innovative creativity in watchmaking, as well as gemstone setting. The brand’s founder, Jacob Arabo, was initially a jewelry apprentice; however, his passion for mechanical watches led him to venture into the watchmaking field, establishing a workshop in Geneva in 2006. Jacob Arabo is a true dreamer, and the watches presented by the brand reflects his passion and creativity, embodying the spirit of being “Inspired by the Impossible.” Some renowned watches include the Quenttin timepiece with a vertical tourbillon, featuring seven barrels for an extended 31-day power reserve. The Epic SF24 World Time Zone Watch takes inspiration from early train stations and airport departure boards (Split Flap). The Opera Godfather Music Box Watch interprets the theme from the movie: The Godfather. One of the most remarkable creations is the Astronomia, featuring a multi-axis tourbillon and a celestial planetarium. The Astronomia Collection includes the Astronomia Casino Watch, which incorporates a roulette game on the dial.
The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Watch, created through the collaboration with the supercar manufacturer BUGATTI, conveys a pulsating sense of life, exuding dynamic vitality. The watch design, from the case to the three-dimensional dial, impeccably reproduces the legendary Bugatti Chiron supercar. Notably, the 6 o’clock position simulates the W16 engine of the car model, showcasing the movement of 16 cranks and pistons. The watch operates for 24 seconds on a full wind, accompanied by a 60 second flying tourbillon at the 12 o’clock position, enhancing the overall dynamism and tension of the timepiece.
各式機械藝術躍然錶上——MB&F
獨立製錶品牌在台灣有著越來越愛好此道的藏家，由Maximilian Busser創立於2005年的MB&F是首波引進台灣的獨立製錶品牌之一，至今也累積了一票死忠錶迷。對於腕錶的創作，Maximilian秉持的精神為：「生意不是重點，熱忱、創意，以及忠於你自己才是最重要的」。他打造多款外觀如車子般的腕錶，是多數人對於這個品牌的第一印象。其實這是源於他從小的夢想是成為車款設計師，因緣際會才踏入了鐘錶領域，在HARRY WINSTON腕錶研發部門工作時，帶領團隊製造前五款精湛的Opus系列，使他開始聞名於錶壇。於是，他將最熱愛的事物結合腕錶事業，創造諸多外觀似車的錶，進而還有像飛機造型的腕錶。
其實Maximilian創立品牌時所扮演的角色，便是讓獨特的創作概念有一個發揮平台，他曾說：「當我們創辦 MB& F這個品牌時，就不只是為了『製作時間 』，而是為了『創造機械的藝術 』。於是，各種奇思奇想出現在MB&F系列之中。全新作品MB&F Horological Machine Nº11 Architect「時居」腕錶，甚至把「房間」的通透感融入腕錶之中。腕錶靈感來源是一個靈光乍現：有機線條的房子能夠化為腕錶嗎？於是，最終打造如「房子」的腕錶，以飛行陀飛輪為中心，矗立在雙弧形藍寶石水晶屋頂下方。功能顯示分散於各個「房間」之內，包含小時與分鐘顯示、動力儲存指示、溫度計。腕錶搭載MB&F自製研發的手動上鍊機械機芯，上鍊方式是將錶殼順時針轉動上鍊，可說是相當前衛的構想。錶款計有兩種款式：鈦金屬搭配藍色錶盤、鈦金屬搭配玫瑰金錶盤，各限量 25 只。
Creating Mechanical Artistry Through Watches — MB&F
Founded by Maximilian Busser in 2005, MB&F is a popular brand among collectors in Taiwan as it is one of the first independent watch brands introduced to the country. When it comes to watchmaking, Maximilian believes that passion, creativity, and staying true to oneself are the most important factors. The car-inspired designs of MB&F watches are a reflection of Maximilian’s passion and initial dream of becoming a car designer. His journey into the watchmaking field began at the HARRY WINSTON watch development department, where he led the team in creating the exquisite Opus Collection. Combining his passions, Maximilian crafted watches with car resembling, and airplane-inspired designs.
As the founder, Maximilian believes his role is to provide a platform for unique creative concepts. He once stated, “When we founded MB&F, it was not just about ‘making time,’ but about ‘creating mechanical art.’” This philosophy is evident throughout the MB&F Collections, and the latest addition, the MB&F Horological Machine Nº11 Architect, draws inspiration from turning architectural spaces into a timepiece. Resembling a ‘house’, the flying tourbillon stands at the center beneath a double-domed sapphire crystal roof. Functional displays are dispersed into different ‘rooms’, including hour and minute indicators, power reserve indication, and a thermometer. The watch features MB&F’s in-house, manually-wound mechanical movement, with winding achieved by rotating the case clockwise. This timepiece comes in two styles: titanium with a blue dial and titanium with a rose gold dial, with each limited to 25 pieces.
堅持不懈造就大師地位——PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
有時候，世間會撒下一句冷語：「這是不可能成功的。」然而，在你飽滿的專業智識與堅毅不撓的堅持之下，你實現了別人眼中的不可能。仍活躍於鐘錶界的傳奇製錶大師米歇爾帕瑪強尼（Michel Parmigiani）便是以此精神建立起大師地位。他修復了一只 1821 年由亞伯拉罕路易斯寶璣 (Abraham-Louis Breguet) 所創作結合座鐘與手錶的三問鐘（Breguet’s Pendule Sympathique）。當時許多專家都表示不可能復原其原來風貌，但他花費約 2,000 小時的工時，完成這件看似不可能的任務，建立起大師地位。在成立獨立公司之前他也曾受聘錶廠，但他確信唯有成為獨立的製錶師，才能夠在自由的創作中完全實現對於製錶的堅持和夢想，品牌帕瑪強尼PARMIGIANI FLEURIER就此誕生。
帕瑪強尼除了專精於鐘錶修復，也在製錶上自成一格。全新作品以玫瑰為主題，修復世上僅一款的孤品「La Rose Carrée方形玫瑰懷錶」直徑64mm，白金材質，雙重獵錶套殼，搭載了傳奇製錶師Louis-Elisée Piguet於1898至1904年間的事業高峰期所製作的原創機芯，具備大自鳴與三問報時功能。閃亮的套殼邊緣乍看如鑽石鑲嵌，其實是雕琢為一朵朵細緻的方形玫瑰。外殼寶藍色方形開展的玫瑰，則是運用大明火琺瑯一層層燒製，打造出如此深邃的層次。創辦人對於玫瑰的著迷使得玫瑰的花姿不僅出現在修復懷錶的外殼上。五款色彩紛陳的「Les Roses Carrées 大明火系列」腕錶，結合三問報時功能與大明火琺瑯工藝，錶殼邊緣同樣有著方形玫瑰雕刻，至於選擇紅、藍、綠、藍、咖啡色，則是Michel Parmigiani觀察秋日景致的喜愛與靈感，展現製錶師浪漫而詩意的一個面向。
Diligence, the Key to Expertise — PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
The legendary watchmaking master, Michel Parmigiani, has established a masterful reputation by embodying the belief that with knowledge and unwavering persistence, the impossible becomes possible. While it was deemed impossible by many experts, Michel Parmigiani successfully restored a minute repeater clock, known as Breguet’s Pendule Sympathique, created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1821. He spent approximately 2,000 hours completing this seemingly impossible task, earning his master status. Before founding his company, Parmigiani worked for various watch manufacturers. However, he believed that only as an independent watchmaker could he fully express his dedication and dreams towards watchmaking, leading to the birth of PARMIGIANI FLEURIER.
Parmigiani not only excels in watch restoration, but also in innovation. One of his new creations, themed around roses, restores the unique piece, La Rose Carrée, a platinum, square-shaped, rose pocket watch with a diameter of 64 mm, and featuring a double hunter case. It houses an original movement crafted by the legendary watchmaker Louis-Elisée Piguet during his peak years from 1898 to 1904, equipped with grand sonnerie and minute repeater functions. The brilliant edges of the case appear to be diamond-set, but are actually meticulously carved square-shaped roses. The deep blue, square-shaped rose on the outer case is crafted layer by layer, adding a profound depth.
Parmigiani’s fascination with roses extends beyond the restoration of pocket watches. The Les Roses Carrées Collection combines minute repeater functionality with Grand Feu enamel craftsmanship. The collection features five vibrantly colored wristwatches, with square-shaped, rose carvings adorned on the watch case. The red, blue, green, blue, and brown colors reflects Michel Parmigiani’s inspiration drawn from the autumn scenery, and showcases the romantic and poetic side of the watchmaker.
跳脫框架優化機芯運作——ROMAIN GAUTHIER
機械背景出身的Romain Gauthier，打造腕錶時堅持美感與功能兼具，同時也有著獨立製錶師不可或缺的思維特質——「跳脫框架」。尤其他因為非專業製錶出身，而能夠運用機械工程專業背景的眼光將腕錶動力傳輸做出改良：2013年推出的Logical one，搭載水平芝麻鍊恆定動力系統，使得每個組件以水平方式相互運作傳輸機制，在同水平上，動力能以直線、有效率的方式傳輸。這個睿智的創新機制，使得Romain Gauthier成為頂級鐘錶藏家專注的製錶師之一。近期台灣一名藏家以Logical one為基礎訂製了一款「浮世繪— Logical One Secret」腕錶，錶殼側面還有著層次起伏的金雕，結合了機芯結構中芝麻鍊的機械美感。
對於機芯之美的鋪陳，Romain Gauthier有他自成一格的配置。在全新系列錶款C by Romain Gauthier當中，機芯夾板有著極當代的線條。他將夾板採用水平配置，並且具有「階梯」形狀，透過這樣的視覺效果提供空間感和深度，甚至呈現出「夾板彷彿漂浮在齒輪和擺輪上」的視覺效果，讓夾板沒有明確的盡頭。這樣的「延伸」效果也設計在錶盤上。時分顯示圈設計為偏離水平軸心的，時標刻度逐漸錐化並長短不一，這是刻意呈現的效果，對此，Romain Gauthier本人如此闡述：「與其使用常見的封閉圓圈，我希望打造成一個開放、通透的錶盤，錶盤上的正交線與指針的軸線在交會處形成消失點，強化連續性的概念。」於是，時間的視讀沒有了明確的分際，就像時光之流無始無終。
Thinking Outside the Box for Movement — ROMAIN GAUTHIER
With a mechanical engineering background, Romain Gauthier combines both aesthetics and functionality into his creations, embodying the essential trait of independent watchmakers – thinking outside the box. His non-traditional watchmaking approach, combined with his engineering expertise, led to intelligent innovations in power transmission, launching him into the focus of top watch collectors. In 2013, he introduced the Logical one, equipped with a horizontal constant force system using a chain and fusee mechanism. This design allows components to operate horizontally, transmitting power in a straight and efficient manner.
A Taiwanese collector recently customized a watch based on Logical one: Ukiyo-e – Logical One Secret. The watch case features intricate gold carvings on the side, adding a mechanical aesthetic to the structure.
In his new series, C by Romain Gauthier, he presents movement bridges with contemporary linear patterns. The horizontal configuration of the bridges, featuring a staircase shape, emits a sense of space and depth, giving the impression that the bridges are floating above the gears. This extension effect is also incorporated in the dial as the hour and minute display deviates from the horizontal axis, and the hour markers gradually taper with varying lengths. Romain Gauthier states, “Instead of using a conventional closed circle, I wanted to create an open, transparent dial. The orthogonal lines on the dial and the axis of the hands converge at a vanishing point, enhancing the concept of continuity.” Thus, like the endless flow of time, the perception on the dial loses a distinct boundary.
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