Text By Lynn Tan | TRANSLATION By Elaina Kung
當繁葉之間溢著新貌的嫩綠，隨著一縷春風輕顫搖曳，便是叫喚春日甦醒的時刻。春的腳步，在彩花綻放、昆蟲靈動之間，悄悄鄰近……
When the tender greenery emerges among the lush leaves, swaying gently with the touch of a gentle spring breeze, it heralds the awakening of spring. The footsteps of spring draw near quietly amidst the blossoming flowers and the lively movements of insects…
葉叢開展花容顏
隨著櫻花陸續由初開至滿開，也代表了春的腳步由遠而近。枝枒上各式濃淡的綠意，以及各形各色的花朵，將春日的大地鋪滿繽紛色彩。這個美麗的世界太大，無法將春的美景一擁入懷，但我們可以透過珍藏珠寶作品，將她們的花葉之美植栽於珠寶盒中。每一件以植物花草為題的珠寶，在金質勾勒的形狀與各色寶石鑲嵌之中，也細緻地打造出瑰麗的自然生機。以ANNA HU 達文西玫瑰胸針為例，設計師Anna甚至先對實物標本充分觀察研究再行設計。最終運用銀和青銅進行仿舊處理，營造出古董珠寶的氛圍，黃色花蕊則運用螢光塗漆，能夠在暗處綻放微微的光。這些工藝與寶石鑲嵌皆由巴黎高訂珠寶工坊純手工打造。
而所有作品皆由義大利金工重鎮Valenza資深工匠純手工製作的DAMIANI，經典Margherita瑪格麗特系列，雅致的雛菊花朵，形象鮮明一眼難忘。全新款式延伸花朵的全貌——戒指上不但有一朵雛菊，更有延伸花莖設計出蜿蜒曲線，佩戴在指間也為手指營造出纖細的視覺效果。DAMIANI今年適逢100周年，甫於在米蘭發佈的新款Margherita Desert Garden，朵朵鑽花雛菊叢聚，繁盛而璀璨，垂墜著一枚重達20.64克拉水滴形切割深棕色黃鑽，為DAMIANI經典的瑪格麗特系列搖曳光燦。
DAMIANI Margherita Desert Garden沙漠花園鑽石雛菊項鍊。
ANNA HU 達文西玫瑰胸針。
經典最是恆久，以「鑽石恆久遠，一顆永流傳」為標語的DE BEERS，採用白鑽鑲嵌詮釋唯美的蓮花，以圓形明亮式和梨形鑽石環繞著中央的圓形明亮式鑽石，構成盛開的蓮花花瓣。於是，經典的Enchanted Lotus便以如此花姿燦然綻放。VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Frivole 白K金七花手環也是以白鑽做為主角，以鋪鑲白鑽的心形花瓣組成一朵花，用白鑽的火光為滿滿的心注入晶亮光芒。蒂芬妮Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Orchid蘭花造型鑲鑽胸針，則是在蘭花樣貌的輪廓上鑲滿白鑽，作品在金質與白鑽的色調差異之中，凸顯蘭花之美。
相較於以鑽石為花朵珠寶的寶石鑲嵌，彩寶之王BVLGARI對於花的呈現自成一格。寶格麗的花朵造型珠寶，不求擬真重現花朵的全貌，而是將彩色寶石透過幾何線條的鋪陳，展現出一朵花的樣貌。如Mediterrane系列Oriental Buds東方花蓓頂級彩寶與鑽石項鍊，以中央13.34 克拉古董枕型切割哥倫比亞祖母綠為視覺的主角，再搭配密鑲鑽石與粉紅碧璽、藍寶石和祖母綠圓珠，搭配拜占庭建築物的幾何風格，展現異國花園的獨特韻味。以不同彩色寶石打造花朵最能夠營造如此豐盛的感受，BUCCELLATI由印象畫派為靈感所設計的套組 II Giardino di Buccellati系列，透過淡雅色調的寶石，展現浪漫色彩以及印象派畫作裡的詩意與繁茂。CHOPARD對於打造花卉的豐沛景緻，則是在一款以符合倫理道德標準18K白金與鈦金的項鍊上，鑲嵌橄欖石、磷灰石、沙弗萊石、紅色碧璽、石榴石、藍寶石、紫水晶，打造出一朵朵彩色的花，圍繞成一串色彩紛陳躍動的花圈。
關於「躍動」這個迷人的詞彙，還有什麼比「咖啡豆」更令人振奮呢？卡地亞以咖啡豆為靈感的Grain de Café系列，在橢圓形金質的中央脈紋兩側鑿刻條紋，並在末端點綴鑽石，嵌在貴金屬的棕梠樹形鍊條上，使得每顆豆粒金都可自由活動，不但靈動萬分，更淋漓盡致地表現出咖啡的活力感，也為這充滿生機的春，注入無限的可能。
Foliage Unfolds, Revealing Beautiful Blossoms
Blooming cherry blossoms, with landscapes dressed in various shades of green foliage, signals the arrival of spring. Even though we can’t embrace all of spring’s beauty in our arms, we can timelessly preserve the leaves and flowers through cherished jewelry pieces. Each piece of botanical-themed jewelry, with intricate gold outlines and colorful gemstone inlays, delicately captures nature’s vitality. ANNA HU’s Da Vinci Rose Brooch, for example, is a creation crafted after Anna meticulously studied the specimens. By utilizing silver and bronze for an antique finish, and applying fluorescent paint to the yellow flower core, the brooch, with gemstone inlays handmade by Parisian haute couture jewelry workshops, radiates a subtle glow even under dim lighting.
DAMIANI, known for having their pieces skillfully crafted by artisans from Valenza, Italy, the renowned goldsmith town, presents its classic Margherita Collection, featuring elegant daisy blossoms. The new designs fully expresses the beauty of the flowers; for example, the daisy rings have a curving stem design that creates a delicate visual effect when worn on the fingers. This year marks DAMIANI’s 100th anniversary, and the newly released Margherita Desert Garden Collection, showcased in Milan, presents clusters of sparkling diamond daisies, adorned with a stunning 20.64-carat pear-shaped deep brownish-yellow diamond, adding a dazzling touch to DAMIANI’s classic Margherita series.
DE BEER’s slogan, “A diamond is forever,” demonstrates how classics are a timeless choice. Their Enchanted Lotus uses white diamonds to illustrate the beauty of the lotus flower, with round brilliant and pear-shaped diamonds surrounding a central round brilliant diamond, creating the elegant, blooming petals. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS’ Frivole white gold, seven-flower, bracelet also features white diamonds as the protagonist, with pave-set white diamond heart-shaped petals forming a flower, injecting a bright light into the full heart with the brilliance of white diamonds. TIFFANY & CO.’s Schlumberger Orchid diamond-set orchid brooch is also adorned with white diamonds on the contours of the orchid, highlighting its beauty, while demonstrating the contrast between the gold and white diamonds.
Compared to jewelry adorned with diamonds as flower motifs, BVLGARI, the king of colored gemstones, presents flowers in a unique way. BVLGARI’s flower-shaped jewelry does not seek to realistically reproduce the full appearance of flowers but instead uses colored gemstones arranged through geometric lines to depict the image of a flower. For example, the Mediterranean Collection’s Oriental Buds Necklace features a central 13.34-carat antique cushion-cut Colombian emerald as the visual centerpiece, complemented by pave-set diamonds, pink tourmalines, sapphires, and emerald beads, all set against the geometric style of Byzantine architecture, showcasing the unique charm of exotic gardens and evoking a rich feeling. The II Giardino di Buccellati Collection by BUCCELLATI, inspired by impressionist paintings, showcases romantic colors and the lushness found in impressionist artworks through the use of subtle-toned gemstones. CHOPARD, in its creation of abundant floral scenes, incorporates olivine, apatite, chrysoberyl, red spinel, garnet, sapphire, and amethyst into a necklace made of 18K ethical white gold and titanium, crafting a colorful, lively wrath of flowers.
When we hear the term “vibrancy,” nothing else comes to mind quite like coffee beans. Taking inspiration from coffee beans, CARTIER’s Grain de Café Collection features engraved stripes on the sides of oval-shaped gold grains, accented with diamonds at the ends, set on palm tree-shaped chains made of precious metals. Each grain of gold is free to move, not only exuding boundless agility but also vividly expressing the vitality of coffee, injecting energy into this vibrant spring.
蝶飛漫舞春之際
春季的大地，不僅飄散著泥土與繁葉的芬芳，空氣裡更飄飛著各色蝴蝶，在蝶翼開展之間彷彿張臂歡迎著春。以鑽石打造蝴蝶翩飛的DE BEERS，在Portraits of Nature 系列運用白鑽與彩鑽的搭配鑲嵌，為蝴蝶記錄下娉婷倩影。同樣是以鑽飾詮釋動物惟妙惟肖的GRAFF，蝴蝶作品一直是品牌經典力作之一，燦然紛飛的作品小巧雅致，正如品牌設計總監Anne-Eva Geffroy所闡述的：「鑽石蘊藏的火彩和生命力，是刻畫蝴蝶自然美態的理想素材，使得每一隻鑲嵌鑽石的蝴蝶化作永恆，無懼時間考驗。」
DE BEERS以及GRAFF兩品牌皆以白鑽鋪陳蝴蝶的剪影。以獨特金工為品牌特色的BUCCELLATI，對於在珠寶上模擬昆蟲，有著自成一格的風韻。一款蝴蝶胸針在蝶身運用了巴洛克變形珠天然的珍珠形狀，蝶翼的金工風采是一眼即辨的BUCCELLATI風格。對於辨識度這件事，有時也能夠在寶石切磨的形狀上一見端倪，例如喜愛使用「心形」寶石的CHOAPRD，在與瑪麗亞凱莉聯手發表的Chopard X Mariah Carey蝴蝶項鍊上，也在蝴蝶中央配置了一枚心形白鑽。這款兩方攜手打造的蝴蝶項鍊，是適逢瑪麗亞凱莉經典專輯《Butterfly花蝴蝶》25 週4年合作推出，意義匪淺。
週年，是一種里程碑、是一項蛻變。今年創立品牌滿20年的珠寶藝術家Cindy Chao，五年前品牌15週年時推出一款蜻蜓胸針Dragonfly Brooch。蜻蜓象徵自我實現以及蛻變，因應品牌15週年創作蜻蜓主題，與她奮鬥後的蛻變與高飛成就頗為相互輝映。這件作品以帶有抽象的精神描繪蜻蜓，墨西哥黃金檀木做為蜻蜓的身軀，頭部則是一枚3.01克拉馬眼式切割白鑽。蜻蜓的翅膀在大小錯落的白鑽之間，綻放光采，清麗而靜雅，正如春的靜謐。
春季來臨，夏季也不遠了。於春日孵化，夏日鳴叫的蟋蟀，在TIFFANY & CO. Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany蟋蟀胸針的呈現之中，展現春季的活力以及對於夏日的展望。兩款蟋蟀胸針分別將粉紅剛玉以及藍寶石，運用看不到鑲爪的隱密鑲嵌作為蟋蟀顯目的上背色調，色彩輕盈雅致。再加上細緻的金工，精湛打造蟋蟀的尾部以及足部，多了靈動感的同時，彷彿也鋪設著接續的夏日時光……
Butterflies Dance Upon the Arrival of Spring
In the springtime, not only does the earth sport a fragrance of soil and foliage, but butterflies of various colors also dance within the air, as if welcoming the new season with outstretched arms. DE BEERS, using diamonds to create the graceful flight of butterflies, incorporates a combination of white and colored diamonds in its Portraits of Nature Collection, capturing the elegant silhouette of butterflies. Similarly, GRAFF, renowned for its lifelike animal-inspired jewelry, has always excelled in crafting exquisite butterfly pieces. According to Anne-Eva Geffroy, the brand’s Design Director, “The fiery brilliance and vitality encapsulated in diamonds make them the ideal material to depict the natural beauty of butterflies, ensuring that each diamond-set butterfly becomes eternal, unaffected by the passage of time.”
Both DE BEERS and GRAFF utilize white diamonds to depict the silhouettes of butterflies. Known for its unique goldsmithing techniques, BUCCELLATI has its own distinctive charm when it comes to depicting insects in jewelry. In one butterfly brooch, the brand incorporates naturally shaped baroque pearls for the butterfly’s body, while the exquisite goldwork on the wings showcases the characteristic of BUCCELLATI’s style. Sometimes, recognition can also be discerned from the shapes of gemstone cuts. For instance, CHOPARD, known for its heart-shaped gemstones, features a heart-shaped white diamond at the center of the butterfly in the Chopard X Mariah Carey Butterfly Necklace, a collaboration commemorating the 25th anniversary of Mariah Carey’s classic album “Butterfly.”
Anniversaries are the markings of milestones and transformations, and this year, Cindy Chao, the jewelry artist who founded her brand 20 years ago, introduced the Dragonfly Brooch five years ago to celebrate the brand’s 15th anniversary. The dragonfly symbolizes self-realization and transformation, reflecting the artist’s journey and achievements over the past 15 years. This piece portrays the dragonfly with an abstract spirit, using Mexican golden rosewood for its body and a 3.01-carat marquise-cut white diamond for its head. The wings of the dragonfly, adorned with diamonds of varying sizes, radiate brilliance, exuding a serene and elegant charm, much like the tranquility of spring.
CINDY CHAO THE ART JEWELS 蜻蜓胸針。
As spring arrives, summer is not far behind. Hatching in spring and chirping in summer, the crickets depicted in the TIFFANY & CO. Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Cricket Brooches showcase the vitality of spring and the anticipation of summer. The two cricket brooches use pink tourmaline and sapphires, invisibly set without visible claws, to create prominent hues on the crickets’ backs, giving them a delicate and elegant coloration. Coupled with exquisite goldsmithing, the finely crafted tails and legs of the crickets not only add dynamism but also seem to pave the way for the forthcoming summer days.
發表迴響