enya FASHION QUEEN

Text by Annie Lu | Translation by Elaina Kung

「琥珀」在日本被視為一種吉祥、繁榮的象徵，其幽微的神秘氣息總是令人醉心不已。而座落於台北逸仙路私宅中的頂級日本料理「琥珀割烹」，即以琥珀迷人與獨一無二的特質命名，並將其奉為核心精神，同時融合創新的烹飪方式，與新鮮直送的日本當令食材，為台灣的割烹愛好者帶來猶如「琥珀」般動人的絕妙滋味！

Amber, perceived as an auspicious and prosperous symbol in Japan, emits an enchanting and subtle mystical aura. Kohaku, a top-notch Japanese restaurant located in a private residence on Taipei’s Yixian Road, is named after the charming and unique qualities of amber, and honors it as their core spirit. Kohaku combines innovative cooking methods with fresh, directly-sourced Japanese seasonal ingredients to embrace Taiwanese enthusiasts in the essence of amber through their cuisine.

星級主廚

「琥珀割烹」是由九州熊本米其林二星「新屋敷幸福論」主廚都原慎司監製，由其嫡傳弟子小田建治料理長主理。為了提供更多樣化、極致與革新的割烹技巧，小田料理長決定以在台灣割烹市場中較不常見的「熟食」為主角，希望藉由自身對日本料理的理解、在各地區的生活經驗，以及走訪台灣不同鄉鎮及漁港的心得內化後，將其點綴至料理當中。主廚都原慎司人雖身處日本，不過他與小田料理長每天仍保持密切聯繫，積極討論每日菜單、選用的食材等，甚至還會搜集台灣客人們的回饋後進行調整。

Michelin Star Chef

Kohaku is supervised by Chef Shinsuke Sunoya, who holds two Michelin stars in Kumamoto, Kyushu, and is mainly run by his direct disciple, Chef Kenji Oda. Chef Oda has decided to focus on ready-to-eat dishes, which is less common in the Taiwanese Kappa market, in order to provide a more diversified and innovative Kappo cuisine technique. Through his cuisine, he hopes to present his own understanding of Japanese cuisine, life experiences in various regions, and insights gained from visits to different towns and fishing ports in Taiwan. Chef Sunoya, who resides in Japan, maintains close communication with Chef Oda every day in order to discuss daily menus, selected ingredients, and collect feedback and make adjustments suitable for Taiwanese guests.

精選食材

仔細一覽「琥珀割烹」的菜單，不難發現許多來自日本的新鮮食材，如聖護院大根、行者蒜、與九州軟絲等，這其實都依靠都原主廚按照當地食令，找尋菜單中所需的食材，長期合作的頂級供應商們則會將其直送台灣，在品質的把關上絕對是無庸置疑的。除了日本食材以外，小田料理長也提到：「台灣有許多好的食材，目前部份餐點也都有使用。如鴨肉、蔬菜及宜蘭的鮮魚，未來如果找到更多適合又品質好的食材，會持續讓更多台灣好的食材出現在我們的菜單中，而這也是我想將連結日本文化與台灣生活的方式之一。」此話一出更是讓人期待未來菜單的樣貌！

Selected Ingredients

Several fresh Japanese ingredients can be seen on the menu of Kohaku such as: Seigoin Daikon, Gyōja Ninniku, and Kyushu soft silk. These ingredients are sourced by Chef Suzuki who has connections with long-term top suppliers that directly deliver them from Japan to Taiwan, ensuring the best quality. Besides these ingredients, Chef Oda also mentioned, “Taiwan also has several good ingredients that we like to use in our dishes such as: duck, vegetables, and fresh fish from Yilan. We hope to find more suitable, high-quality Taiwanese ingredients to incorporate into our menu as a way to connect Japanese culture with Taiwanese life.” With this statement, expectations for the future menu rises.

慢工細活

對於「琥珀割烹」來說，一間割烹餐廳不僅要為呈現食材最原始的風味做出努力，如何激發出食材不同的口感與魅力更是一大學問。像是「琥珀割烹」招牌料理之一的「胡麻豆腐」就是在經過研磨、浸泡等耗時的製程後，化身為一入口就香氣四溢的料理；「章魚柔煮」也是在經過四小時的慢火蒸煮下，達到無比軟嫩的口感，只要是品嚐過的人絕對忘不了章魚在嘴裡游泳的感覺！另外「琥珀割烹」也會為料理搭配許多日本的歷史典故與寓意，像是在盛裝「松葉蟹真丈」的容器外均勻撒上水的用意，就源於日本古代君王為防止食物被下毒而設計的；擁有既清脆又有嚼勁口感的「子持昆布」，由密集魚卵附著於昆布而成，這在日本則有代表祈求子孫繁榮的意思。

Meticulous Work

At Kohaku, effort is put into presenting the most original flavors, as well as to bring out the different textures and charms of the ingredients. For example, one of their signature dishes, the “sesame tofu,” undergoes a time-consuming process of grinding and soaking in order for it to burst with aroma upon the first bite. Likewise, the “octopus” is slow cooked for four hours, creating an incredibly tender texture as if the octopus were swimming inside one’s mouth. Additionally, Kohaku also incorporates many historical anecdotes and symbolism from Japan into their dishes. For example, with the dish the “matsuba crab”, they incorporated a practice which involves sprinkling water evenly around the dish; this originated from an ancient Japanese custom which prevented food from being poisoned. Another is the “kelp with fish roe,” which has a crispy and chewy texture as the fish roe adheres to the kelp. This dish symbolizes the wish for prosperity in descendants, a belief deeply rooted in Japanese culture.

質感饗宴

在「琥珀割烹」用餐除了能夠享用到最頂級的割烹料理外，店裡一貫的日式簡約風格令人感到舒心無比，內部俐落的裝潢也使客人能更加專注於品嚐料理。尤其是餐具器皿皆選用「唐津燒」或「輪島漆器」製成，其細緻的質地與觸感輕易地就能完美展現食物的色彩與質感。至於座位的部分「琥珀割烹」擁有兩間含有獨立通道的包廂，非常適合朋友聚會；不過一個人前往的話也不用擔心，板前座位不僅可以近賞師傅料理，過程中還能夠與他們進行有趣的互動以及對話，這對每位前來的客人來說肯定會是一場非常深刻的用餐體驗！

Quality Feast

Decorated in a minimalist Japanese style, Kohaku serves the finest kaiseki cuisine within a serene and comfortable space. The simple interior enables guests to focus on savoring the dishes, and the usage of “Karatsu ware,” or “Wajima lacquerware, effortlessly enhances the colors and textures of the food. As for seating arrangements, Kohaku offers two private rooms, each with their own entrance, making it the perfect space for an intimate gatherings with friends. For those who favor dining alone, counter seats not only provide a close-up view of the chef’s culinary skills but also allows for engaging interactions and conversations throughout the meal, ensuring a deeply memorable dining experience for everyone.

限定酒款

「琥珀割烹」也提供了花之香限定酒款，為花之香酒造特別為琥珀所打造的酒款，清新的花香味包覆著天然產生的柔和氣泡，味道甘甜順口，微微酒粕讓口感更為圓潤豐富。是「琥珀割烹」最推薦的餐搭酒，甘甜的風味能襯托出琥珀溫柔的料理風味。

（花之香酒造創立於1902年，獲得純米酒大賞金獎及London SAKE Challenge金獎；主張自然農法種植，酒米使用了地道「和水町」產米，及使用了經過熊本阿蘇火山熔岩物的湧水為釀造用水。因此花之香酒造的酒具有芬芳、細膩和溫和的味道。米飯的華麗和鮮味被正面的苦味像花雨一樣銳化。）