enya FASHION QUEEN

Text by Annie Lu｜Translation by Sherry Chen

來到隱身於台北民權東路的頂級私宅日料「壽司豐」，就像拜訪老友家一樣，內心是輕鬆且愉悅的，這樣的氛圍或許正是料理長Kent桑（徐建堂），從高玉退休後重出江湖，想呈現給饕客的模樣，期望從最純粹的料理以及最誠心的款待，讓賓客收穫滿滿的幸福！

Stepping into the exclusive private sushi haven “Sushi Toyo” on Minquan East Road in Taipei feels like visiting an old friend’s home. The atmosphere is both relaxed and joyous, reflecting a welcoming vibe that head chef Kent (Xu Jiantang) envisions. After retiring from Kougyoku, Chef Kent is dedicated to offering guests an abundance of happiness through the purest dishes and the most sincere hospitality.

強勢回歸

當「壽司豐」的老闆Kent桑被問及，為何在退休後又想出來做料理時，他笑著回答：「因為退休後很無聊，還是很想工作，加上一直想要有一家屬於自己的店。」決定再出發後，Kent桑剛好在住家附近覓得一處合適的地點，而「壽司豐」也就此誕生。對他來說，退休生活能有一份「事少離家近」的工作，幾乎是最完美的狀態。而這間店從選址、料理及食材挑選，每個細節都親力親為，目的就是要將「壽司豐」的高品質體現出來。

A Solid Return

When asked why he returned to cooking after retirement, Sushi Toyo’s owner Kent laughed and said, “Retirement was boring. I still wanted to work and I always dreamed of having my own restaurant.” After deciding to return to the kitchen, Kent found the perfect location near his home, and thus the inauguration of Sushi Toyo. For him, having a job that’s close to home with minimal hassle is the ideal retirement. From searching for a location to selecting ingredients, every minutiae aspect is personally taken care of by Kent himself to ensure Sushi Toyo delivers the finest quality.

永不過時

一進店裡，很容易被由全實木打造的長桌吸引了目光，Kent桑表示，會選用難整理的實木，其實也呼應了他的創店理念：「最樸實自然的東西永遠不會過時。」就如同他的手藝跟料理一樣，經過多年的淬煉，依舊能維持高水準的表現。這也使得許多吃不慣其他日料餐廳口味的老顧客跟隨著他來到「壽司豐」，對於這些老顧客的相挺，Kent桑則表示：「其實這些客人已經都變成朋友一樣，我非常了解他們的口味，他們來到這裡最重要的是能吃到最豐盛的料理，我希望大家都可以高興地來、高興地回家。」

Eternally Timeless

Upon entering the restaurant, we are immediately drawn to the remarkable long table crafted entirely from hardwood. Kent explains that choosing such a high-maintenance material reflects his founding philosophy: “The most natural and authentic things are timeless.” Parallel to his culinary skills and dishes, which have been refined over time, they continue to maintain high standards. This dedication has garnered his loyal patrons who could not find satisfaction in other Japanese restaurants to follow Chef Kent to his new restaurant. “These customers are like friends to me,” Kent shares. “I know their dietary preferences well. When they are here, the most important thing is that they enjoy a bountiful meal. I want everyone to come with joy and leave with joy.”

原汁原味

坐在板前看Kent桑專注料理的神情，不難被他對日料投入的熱愛所打動。擁有30多年的日料背景，直至退休依然致力於這件事情上，實在是難能可貴，尤其是在食材選用上，Kent桑仍然會每個月到日本福岡的市場去進行挑選，除了確保維持日本料理的純正風味，不讓自己口味隨著台灣的飲食習慣而改變，也確保「壽司豐」的食材都是當令且最新鮮的。有時，他也會選用一些台灣較少見的食材，來增加料理的獨特性。Kent桑也提到，其實這麼多年以來，日料一直在演進，隨著年齡與心境的改變，想呈現出來的東西也不同。現在的他並不想把心力放在與其他店家競爭上，而是決定「返璞歸真」，把自己最拿手、擅長的長項盡情表現在日料上。

Authentic Flavors

Sitting at the counter and watching Chef Kent as he devotes high levels of concentration, it’s hard not to be moved by his passion for Japanese cuisine. With over 30 years of experience in Japanese culinary, his dedication remains unwavering even in retirement, a testament to his remarkable commitment. When it comes to ingredients, Chef Kent would travel to Fukuoka markets in Japan every month to personally select ingredients. Other than to ensure Sushi Toyo maintains authentic flavors of Japanese cuisine, he also ensures that his taste buds would not adapt to Taiwanese flavoring over time. This also guarantees seasonal ingredients are fresh. Occasionally, he would also introduce rare ingredients not commonly found in Taiwan to add uniqueness to his dishes.

Kent acknowledges that Japanese cuisine has evolved over the years. As he has grown older and his perspectives have shifted, so too have his culinary expressions. He no longer aims to compete with other restaurants but instead chooses to “return to basics,” showcasing his expertise and passion in the most genuine way.

職人精神

堅持是一件不容易的事情，而讓Kent桑堅持的絕對原因，就是他的對日料永不熄滅的熱情跟動力。不過，僅僅只是如此的話，並不足以構成他今日的成就，他提到「用心」才是最重要的，對料理用不用心客人都感受得到。此外，在學習中「累積經驗」，也是他非常看重的，若是任何事情都只學皮毛，點到即止，那就沒辦法達到精通純熟，無論是在什麼行業都無法走得長遠，編輯認為這就是所謂職人精神的最佳展現吧！

The Artisan Spirit

Dedication is never easy, but for Chef Kent, the driving force behind his unwavering commitment is his undying passion for Japanese cuisine. However, passion alone isn’t enough to explain his remarkable achievements. Kent emphasizes that “heartfelt dedication” is crucial; customers can always sense whether a chef truly cares about their craft. He also places great importance on “accumulating experience” through continuous learning. Simply scratching the surface isn’t enough to master any craft, and without true mastery, individuals will not pertain to longstand success in any field. This, the editor believes, epitomizes the true spirit of an artisan.