enya FASHION QUEEN

EDITOR Annie Lu｜Translator Sherry Chen

今年在大稻埕新開幕的餐廳「盈科EIKA」，由星級主廚稗田良平親自操刀，為這座繁忙的城市注入了一片寧靜的綠洲，如同涓涓細流般，為都市生活帶來了一抹清新。餐廳名稱「盈科」源自「盈科而後進」的理念，寓意著不斷的積累與成長，體現稗田主廚對於料理的堅持與積極。踏入「盈科」的大門，賓客即將展開一場充滿驚喜的味覺旅程，並透過稗田主廚的烹飪藝術，感受這片土地獨有的魅力與無限的可能性。

盈科主廚稗田良平 Eika’s Head Chef Ryohei Hieda. 

靜謐老宅 處處巧思

從「盈科」這棟老宅的頂樓陽台，向外探出去，除了可以見到紅通通的屋瓦，還可以感受到被民樂街與迪化街圍繞的奇妙氛圍，儘管這兩條街道風情相異，卻是主廚稗田良平最喜歡的地方，也是選址於此的原因之一；當我們沿著樓梯往下，穿過小廚房到達包廂，幽微的燈光為空間增添些許神秘感，由茶桌改造而成的餐桌更是充滿巧思。繼續向下探索，廚師們專心料理的場景一覽無遺，特別的是二樓其實是連接著廚房的用餐區，目的就是希望可以透過這樣的空間帶給賓客獨一無二的用餐體驗；而令人驚喜的是一樓空間並不是作為用餐區使用，而是一處由長木桌與藝術品為主角的Waiting Room，因為在沈澱心靈後品嚐料理肯定是極佳的，也代表當賓客進入「盈科」的那刻，就已經在為稍後精彩的美食之旅做準備了。

Tranquil Quaint House, Eclectic Designs

From the rooftop terrace of “EIKA,” beyond the terracotta tile rooftops, a unique ambiance envelops Minle Street and Dihua Street. Even though the two streets carry distinctive charms, they are Chef Ryohei Hieda’s favorite spots in the city and one of the reasons he chose this location for his restaurant. Down the stairs to a small kitchen and into the private dining room, the dim lighting casts a hint of mystery in the space; the dining table is eclectically repurposed from a traditional tea table. Further into exploration, the second floor reveals an open kitchen where chefs meticulously craft dishes, offering a rare dining experience where guests can witness the culinary artistry up close. Surprisingly, the first floor is not a dining area but a waiting room adorned with a console table with curated art pieces— a tranquil space for guests to cogitate as they prepare for an extraordinary culinary journey that awaits them at “EIKA.”

盈科由大稻埕一棟四層樓的老宅建成 “EIKA” is built from a four-floor old building in Dadaocheng.

快樂瞬間  由心感受

「第一印象至關重要，正如我們的第一道料理『鹹豆漿』，除了展現台灣傳統文化外，就是想讓賓客覺得這裡很特別，讓他們想繼續探索下去！」主廚稗田良平認為，第一道料理就是序章，是賓客體驗「盈科」的起點。儘管擁有令人探索慾望爆棚的開頭，但主廚仍未對「盈科」這間餐廳或料理下註解、編寫故事。主廚提到：「同樣的菜色或料理在不同空間會帶來不一樣的感覺。」讓賓客在這充滿歷史底蘊的場域下品嚐料理，自行體會出料理想傳達給賓客的故事與情感後，露出滿足的神情，就是主廚最想在「盈科」看見的，而這對在台灣擁有十年料理生涯的主廚來說，也絕對是最快樂的瞬間。

Savor the Moments, Heartfelt Joy

“First impressions are everything, much like our starter, ‘Salty Soybean Milk.’ Beyond showcasing Taiwan’s cultural heritage, the idea is to captivate the guests, sparking their curiosity to explore further,” Chef Ryohei Hieda shares. For him, the starter is the prologue, the entry point to the “EIKA” experience. While the restaurant offers an intriguing introduction, Chef Hieda refrains from defining or scripting the narratives of “EIKA” or its cuisine. “The same dish can evoke entirely different feelings depending on the space,” he explains. At “EIKA,” nestled in a setting steeped in history, guest are invited to discover narratives as they resonate with the culinary stories of Chef Hieda, who has spent a decade honing his craft in Taiwan. Seeing the content expressions of the guests is a true bliss for Chef Hieda.

鹹豆漿，選用台灣黃豆當天新鮮熬製的豆漿，搭配小魚高湯與盈科自己發酵白菜汁。.鹹豆漿，選用台灣黃豆當天新鮮熬製的豆漿，搭配小魚高湯與盈科自己發酵白菜汁。Salty Soy Milk, freshly prepared daily from Taiwanese soybeans, combined with clove fish broth and house fermented cabbage juice./北寄貝肝醬，選用北海道的北寄貝，用昆布汁熬煮後、醋飯、北寄貝肝所調製的肝醬等。Fresh Hokkigai with liver sauce, uses Hokkaido Hokkigai, simmered in kombu broth, vinegar rice, and topped with a liver paste crafted with Hokkigai./夏季生魚片，以軟絲、紅喉、縞鯵、秋葵、金蓮葉、發酵牛番茄醬汁與紫蘇油製作而成。Seasonal sashimi with local tomato, shiso. Neritic squid, Rosy seabass, striped jack, okra, nasturtium leaves, fermented beefsteak tomato sauce, and shiso oil.

美饌上桌 味無止境

來到「盈科」用餐的賓客們，不難發現餐廳裡滿布著各式各樣的食材發酵罐，它們像是一部部隱藏的食材密技，靜靜地等待屬於它們的時刻到來。而這些罐子裡充滿了主廚稗田良平對味道的深刻理解和細膩工藝，從發酵牛番茄到酸白菜，每一個罐子都記錄了時間的故事，並成就了每一道獨特的菜色。像是其中一道「夏季生魚片」突破傳統印象，以發酵牛番茄醬汁和紫蘇油為生魚片添彩，創造出全新的生魚片風味。每片軟絲、紅喉和縞鯵在醬汁的襯托下，展現了細緻的口感與清新的層次感。而「酸白菜季節魚椀物黑松露」則把自己發酵的酸白菜與魚骨高湯融合，搭配九繪石斑魚與黑松露，湯底濃郁且清爽，盛裝於具有貴族色彩的岩手縣秀衡塗湯碗中，讓每一口都充滿了精緻與雅致。

Served Delicacy, Endless Flavors

As you step into “EIKA,” it’s hard not to notice the variety of fermentation jars lining the restaurant; each jar is like a secret culinary alchemy waiting for its special moment. These jars are filled with the contemplation of flavors and meticulous craftsmanship of Chef Ryohei Hieda; they hold treasures ranging from fermented beefsteak tomatoes to pickled cabbage, each registering a story of time and patience that culminates in a single culinary experience. The “Summer Sashimi” dish, for instance, defies tradition by pairing delicate slices of neritic squid, rosy seabass, and striped jack with fermented beefsteak tomato sauce and shiso oil. The result is a sashimi dish with a new dimension of taste, where each bite offers a refined texture and refreshing complexity. Another standout is the “Pickled Cabbage Seasonal Fish Soup with Black Truffle,” which marries the house-fermented cabbage with rich fish bone broth, featuring longtooth grouper and a hint of black truffle. Served in a luxurious lacquered bowl from Iwate Prefecture, each spoonful of the dish exudes moments of elegant and delicate indulgence.

酸白菜季節魚椀物黑松露，使用自己發酵的酸白菜和魚骨高湯熬製成湯底，以及日本五島列島九繪(日本石斑魚），搭配黑松露。Seasonal fish soup with pickled chinese cabbage, black truffle, using house pickled chinese cabbage and fish bone broth as the base, with rare Goto Islands longtooth grouper, finished with a touch of black truffle./柴燒煙隻鴨與紅麴，使用彰化胭脂鴨，用龍眼木燒烤後點綴上用紅麴、鴨骨、發酵番茄等製作而成醬汁。Wood-fire duck breast with red koji sauce,  using Changhua duck, roasted over longan wood, and garnished with a sauce made with red koji, duck bones, and fermented tomatoes.

用心打磨 成就理想 

提及未來，主廚希望「盈科」能成為食客們都想抵達的理想之地，在這同時他也深知顧客們對料理與服務品質的期望，所以為了避免回訪顧客會重複品嚐到同季菜單，主廚採取了個性化的服務策略，希望藉由記錄食客的用餐經歷，並利用相同的食材創造出不同的烹飪風味，以不斷帶給回訪的客人新鮮感和驚喜。至於對未來希望加入這個行業的人們，稗田主廚分享了他的見解，他認為：「開設一家餐廳看似簡單，但實際上真正的挑戰在於持續的耕耘與經驗的積累。成功的餐飲事業需要長期的投入和不斷的學習，從技術到細節，每一步都必須用心打磨。」而稗田主廚的這份真摯與堅持，正是「盈科」能夠在未來成為顧客心中珍貴美食之地的原因。

Polished by Heart, Perfected Dreams

Looking forward, Chef Ryohei Hieda envisions “EIKA” as the ultimate culinary destination that diners would yearn to return over time. He is aware of the high expectations of his guests for both the cuisine and the service. To keep the experience fresh and exciting for returning diners, he employs a personalized service strategy—to record each culinary experience and to create distinctive flavors with the same seasonal ingredients. 

For those aspiring to enter the culinary world, Chef Hieda shares his thoughts: “Opening a restaurant may seem simple, but the true challenge lies in continuous cultivation and the accumulation of experience. A successful culinary venture demands long-term dedication and relentless learning. From skills to minutiae details, every step must be honed with assiduity.” The sincerity and unwavering commitment positions “EIKA” as a cherished culinary haven in the hearts of its patrons.

用餐區可以直接看見主廚料理時的樣子。Chefs can be seen from the dining area crafting dishes in the open kitchen.