Text by Annie Lu｜Translation by Sherry Chen
燈燈庵新竹店，是一座跨越時空的橋樑，將日本傳統的懷石料理文化帶入新竹的都市脈動中。這座餐廳由1930年代的警察宿舍改建而成，儘管經過重建，仍保留濃厚的日式風格。店外，一片綠草如茵的草坪，使整座建築彷彿被大自然溫柔包覆，這樣的景色也與其主打的「自然流」料理相互輝映。
The Hsinchu branch of Toutouan serves as a transcendent bridge, blending Japan’s traditional kaiseki culture with the lively pulse of the city. Housed in a repurposed 1930s police residence, the restaurant preserves its rich Japanese aesthetic. Outside the restaurant, a lush, verdant lawn tenderly envelops the building, a landscape that echoes the restaurant’s commitment to “natural cuisine.”
料理長廣中新輝。Executive Head Chef Araki Hironaka.
燈燈無盡
燈燈庵，源自維摩經的「燈燈無盡，代代相傳」，這蘊含著文化的延續與無盡的傳承，這個名字也反映燈燈庵致力於成為一個古老且優良品牌的願景。燈燈庵的菜單靈感多源於古代詩詞，每道菜背後都有一段古詩的啟發。在每個月都更換菜單的情況下，這其實非常考驗料理長廣中新輝腦中的創意資料庫，不過對他來說，能夠在新竹燈燈庵這個富含歷史底蘊又充滿現代風情的地方料理，反而給他源源不絕的靈感。而這樣將詩詞與料理融合的設計為的就是要讓賓客，感受到詩意的流轉，並享受一場雋永的味覺旅程。
Endless Illumination
Toutouan derived its name from the teachings of Vimalakirti Sutra, “endless lamps, passed down through generations,” embodying the perpetuation of culture and timeless legacy. This name encapsulates Toutouan’s vision of becoming a revered and enduring brand. Most of Toutouan’s menus are inspired by ancient poetry, with each dish infused with the essence of classic verses. This monthly menu is a testament to Chef Araki Hironaka’s creative prowess. Yet, Chef Hironaka draws boundless inspiration from the rich historical and modern ambiance of Toutouan Hsinchu. By weaving poetry into a culinary experience, Toutouan invites guests on a poetic journey, offering a taste of timeless elegance and a memorable sensory adventure.
山川之味
燈燈庵的料理，以自然為師，從山川大地中汲取靈感，創造出充滿自然氣息的佳餚，無論是來自山林的蔬菜，還是海洋中的新鮮魚獲，都經過料理長精心的挑選，料理長提到：「對我來說挑選食材最重要的三個重點為新鮮度、味道跟形狀。整體來說台灣食材佔80％，日本食材佔20％」在燈燈庵的料理中，大部分使用台灣豐富且有魅力的時令食材，像是放山雞、芒果與洛神花等；而日本料理的「生命線」，像是高湯所需的鰹魚乾和昆布則會是從日本進口，並使用部分的水來調整，至於米和調味料也以日本的味道為基本標準，不過考量到日本與新竹，客人、氣候，與文化風俗皆不同，所以料理長也會靈活調整料理的呈現，讓自然的味道在每道菜中盡情綻放。
Flavors of the Earth
At Toutouan, the culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in the teachings of nature, drawing inspiration from the mountains, rivers, and earth to create dishes brimming with natural essence. Whether it is vegetables harvested from the forests or the freshest catch from the sea, each ingredient is meticulously selected by the head chef. Chef Hironaka notes, “To me, the three essential aspects of ingredient selection are freshness, flavor, and form. Overall, 80% of our ingredients are sourced locally from Taiwan, with the remaining 20% from Japan.”
Toutouan’s cuisine predominantly showcases Taiwan’s rich and alluring seasonal produce, such as free-range chicken, mangos, and hibiscus flowers. Essential elements of Japanese cuisine, like the dried bonito and kombu used in dashi, are imported from Japan, with some adjustments made to the water used in preparation. While rice and seasonings adhere to Japanese standards, Chef Hironaka thoughtfully tailors the dishes to suit the unique climate, culture, and tastes of Hsinchu, ensuring that the essence of nature shines through every plate.
和諧共舞
俗話說：「佛要金裝，人要衣裝。」對料理長廣中新輝來說，料理亦如是。他認為：「器皿如同和服般，選用器皿就像為料理精心挑選衣服。」每一道料理，都在這精心的搭配下，展現出無與倫比的美感與和諧。在燈燈庵，不僅是料理本身散發出自然流派的藝術氣息，連同選用的陶器、瓷器等器皿也傳遞著自然之美，位賓客帶來無盡的喜悅與療癒。這樣的搭配，就像讓料理與器皿共同演繹出一場和諧共舞，也讓賓客沉浸於自然與藝術的完美結合中。另外，燈燈庵新竹店也很強調店裝的整體感，為的就是要讓燈燈庵不會因為每月菜單的更替，而出現在整體感受上的落差。
A Dance of Harmony
As the saying goes, “Fine feathers make fine birds.” For Chef Hironaka, this principle is equally relevant to his culinary creations. He believes, “Tableware is like a kimono; selecting the right dishware is parallel to choosing the perfect attire for a dish.” At Toutouan, each dish is plated meticulously with aesthetics and harmony. It is not just the cuisine that embodies the artistry flow of nature; the selected ceramics and porcelain also convey the beauty of nature, bringing guests endless bliss and serenity to guests. This pairing performs a harmonious dance between the dishes and their vessels, offering guests an immersive fusion of nature and art. Additionally, the Hsinchu branch of Toutouan emphasizes maintaining a cohesive interior ambiance, ensuring that the overall experience at the restaurant remains balanced with the monthly menu changes.
Winter Melon Brown Sugar Brew, Summer Fruit Whipping Cream, and Pear with Mikawa Mirin Syrup.
五感藝術
燈燈庵新竹店的現址，其實承載著一段歷史記憶，這裡原本是一間1930年代的警察宿舍。當初選擇在此地開設燈燈庵，除了因建築本身具有獨特的文化風貌外，地理位置的優勢也是一大原因。鄰近火車站的便利交通，使這座餐廳在新竹這個充滿生機的城市中落地生根，並與日益蓬勃的餐飲市場完美契合，新竹店也因此在這天時地利人和的結合下正式誕生。然而，對料理長廣中新輝來說，燈燈庵不僅僅是一間餐廳，更是一座充滿藝術氣息的「藝廊」，不過與其他藝廊不一樣的是，燈燈庵所提供的是一場「五感」的盛宴，無論是從花藝、茶藝、料理以及氛圍等，這裡的每一個細節，都在視覺、味覺、嗅覺、觸覺與聽覺間蔓延，來到這裡的賓客無不在這場感官饗宴中，讓身心靈得到滿足，並且滿載而歸！
Art for the Five Senses
The current location of Toutouan’s Hsinchu branch is steeped in history and served as a police residence in the 1930s. The establishment of Toutouan was driven not only by the building’s quaint cultural charm but also by its strategic location. Nestled near the train station, the restaurant is convenient for transportation while seamlessly integrating with the flourishing dining scenes of the city, allowing Toutouan to ground roots firmly in this vibrant city. Toutouan Hsinchu was born from a harmonious blend of timing, location, and opportunity.
For Chef Hironaka, Toutouan is more than just a restaurant; it is an artistic gallery. Unlike traditional galleries, Toutouan offers a feast for the senses, where every detail—from floral arrangements and tea ceremonies to the cuisine and ambiance—creates a sensory tapestry that enhances sight, taste, smell, touch, and hearing. Guests stepping into this space will find themselves in a sensory symphonic immersion with their souls nourished and spirits uplifted!
燈燈庵新竹店用餐空間優雅靜謐。Dining Space in Toutouan Hsinchu with Elegant and Serene Ambience.
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