enya FASHION QUEEN

EDITOR Leah Han | TRANSLATOR Sherry Chen | ART DESIGN Ariel Hu

時裝周對於關心潮流的人們來說無疑是一場慶典，每年9、10月份，各大品牌紛紛獻上得意之作，而我們也能夠在這些創意中，預見隔年早春季節的流行趨勢。除了模特所身穿的服飾之外，秀場佈置也是創意總監們希望大家可以細細品味的重點，那麼今年的早春系列有哪些出人意料的亮點？接下來編輯將會帶領大家一一剖析、領略。

For fashion lovers, Fashion Week is undoubtedly a grand celebration. Each September and October, top brands unveil their most prized creations, offering a glimpse into the trends for the upcoming season. Beyond the garments, the runway set design is another key element that creative directors invite us to savor. What unexpected highlights define this year’s Cruise collections? Join us as the editors delve into and analyze the standout moments that captivated the fashion world.

矛盾元素，和諧共融

時尚與實用可以兼具嗎？對GUCCI創意總監Sabato De Sarno來說，答案無疑是肯定的。於倫敦泰特現代美術館舉辦的GUCCI 2025早春時裝秀，將極簡工業風秀場與極繁創意設計相結合，在矛盾與衝突中擦撞出意外和諧的火花。在Sabato De Sarno的世界裡，衣服與人是互相成就的，他希望穿著GUCCI的人們可以因此成為更好的自己，也希望GUCCI的服飾能因這些人而得到更多關注。在此次早春時裝秀場，我們足以窺見品牌對於實穿性的追求，以雷射切割、手工組裝成型的3D形式歐根紗，幻化成朵朵洋甘菊綻放於時裝之上，柔軟的觸感讓衣物舒適度更加分，完美兼顧了穿著體驗與潮流風格。麂皮外套總會為大家帶來冷酷、不羈氛圍，但GUCCI利用雪紡、荷葉邊、蕾絲等少女元素，中和麂皮的粗獷與野性，反而營造出專屬於女性的脆弱與堅強。「時裝設計是一種研究、探索、詮釋的手段，在表達了對慾望和性感的想法之後，更浪漫、更矛盾的另一部分也隨即展開，我喜歡擺脫既定規則，在不扭曲的狀況下將其引向相反方向並找到和諧。」在Sabato De Sarno的帶領下，GUCCI以一種有規律卻又無跡可尋的方式頻頻獻上驚喜，或許作為觀眾的我們，也可以從這種反覆拉扯的設計方式中，找到屬於人生的新靈感。

Contrasting Elements, Harmonious Fusion

Can fashion and functionality truly coexist? For GUCCI’s Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno, the answer is an unequivocal nod. The GUCCI 2025 Cruise collection, unveiled at London’s Tate Modern, masterfully fused industrial minimalism with opulent creativity, striking an unexpected harmony through the tension of contrasts. In Sabato De Sarno’s world, clothing and the wearer are symbiotic—he envisions those wearing GUCCI not only elevating their perception of identity but also drawing renewed attention to these garment creations.

This season’s collection demonstrated a clear commitment to wearability, with laser-cut, hand-assembled 3D organza blossoming into delicate daisies on the garments. The soft textures enhanced comfort, seamlessly blending practicality with high-fashion flair. While suede jackets typically evoke a cool, rebellious edge, GUCCI juxtaposed these rough and wild garments with feminine elements such as chiffon, ruffles, and lace, creating a striking balance between fragility and strength that are uniquely feminine.

“Fashion design is a means of research, exploration, and reinterpretation. After conveying my thoughts on desire and sensuality, I delve into the more romantic and paradoxical side of creativity. I love steering in the opposite direction without distorting the original essence, finding harmony in the unexpected,” Sabato De Sarno remarked. Under his direction, GUCCI continues to surprise us with a rhythm that’s both precise and elusive, inviting audiences to discover new life inspiration through the constant interplay of opposing forces in his designs.

百變樣貌，格紋呈現

對於DIOR來說，蘇格蘭是記憶、是歷史、是經典，早在1955年，迪奧先生便於此發表新作，品牌與城市間的緣分不言而喻。DIOR 2025早春度假系列在濃濃蘇格蘭風情中拉開帷幕，代表性獨角獸與薊花交匯千花紋樣，令本就華美的刺繡更顯生動。而格紋面料則是大眾在提及蘇格蘭時無法繞過的特色，它不僅內化了城市與眾不同的別樣特質，更成為迪奧先生口中，唯一能挑戰時尚潮流的布料。在早春時裝秀上， 格紋甚至變成了主題貫穿每個設計，無論是少女感滿分的浪漫主義洋裝，還是朋克搖滾風十足的誇張輪廓，無一不在傳遞專屬於格紋的多元與時尚。另外，奢華的天鵝絨材質也非常抓人眼球，修身晚禮服設計令裙襬更顯寬大壯觀，與之形成對比的輕盈洋裝，又如羽翼般幻化為纖長而的模樣。DIOR在早春系列帶領大家開啟了一段奇妙的時光旅程，相互交織的概念元素組成了極具創意的時裝秀場，品牌將每個不同階段逐一作為靈感來源，結合獨特設計語彙，為大家細膩講述發生在蘇格蘭的叛逆與柔情。

Tartan Perfection: Versatility Redefined

For DIOR, Scotland encompasses memory, history, and timeless elegance. As early as 1955, the brand forged strong ties with the city when Monsieur Dior debuted new creations in Scotland. The DIOR 2025 Cruise Collection unfolded against the backdrop of Scotland’s rich cultural heritage, where iconic unicorns and thistle, symbols of Scotland, intertwined with medieval millefleurs motifs, breathing life into the exquisite embroidery. 

Tartan is undeniably an intrinsic characteristic of Scotland, encapsulating the city’s distinctive character. As a tribute from Monsieur Dior, he remarked that Tartan is “the only fancy fabric that resists fashions.” In this Cruise show, Tartan serves as the unifying thread running through every design—from youthful, romantic dresses to bold, punk-inspired silhouettes—each showcasing timeless versatility and the fashion-forward nature of this iconic pattern.

Luxurious velvet also commanded attention, marking a grand appearance in tailored evening gowns with voluminous skirts, contrasted by airy, ethereal dresses that flutter like delicate wings. The DIOR Cruise Collection transported the audience on a fantastical journey through time, weaving rebelliousness and romance, as the brand tells every era of Scottish heritage through its creativity and unique design language.

現代絲路，秀場展開

威尼斯，一座美麗又古老的城市，也是無數人心中最嚮往的地方，這裡常被大家比喻成女性，它正義、和諧、忠誠、優雅，同時又充滿力量，永遠不會停下前進的步伐，而這也與MAX MARA的理念不謀而合，因此品牌將2025早春秀場搬至威尼斯總督府，洋溢著莊嚴氣息的哥特式建築層次分明，成為了此次大秀的亮點之一。MAX MARA 2025早春系列圍繞「絲綢之路」展開，品牌利用珍貴的桑蠶絲面料與大地色系，呼應馬可波羅當年的奇妙經歷與探險精神，搭配大號流蘇、粗重抽繩等奪目細節，賦予女性在日常生活中的全新優雅形象。如果說頗具特色的秀場服飾是主線故事，那麼與主題渾然天成的頭巾、帽子則是品牌為各位預留的彩蛋，MAX MARA特別邀請傳奇女帽設計師Stephen Jones共同打造奢華風格，貫穿古今、多元共融的帽款令絲路主題更加完整，對於早春系列來說，這無疑是畫龍點睛的存在。從寬鬆飄逸的曳地外套，到簡約幹練的束腰外衣，MAX MARA 2025早春系列幾乎涵蓋了女性的所有樣貌，以低調聞名的品牌在該系列中加入了不少華麗風格，大膽的突破也令世人對這個跨越世紀的經典品牌，不由燃起深深的敬意。

Modern Silk Road: The Runway Unfolds

Venice—a city of timeless beauty and ancient charm, remains a coveted destination for many. The city is often referred to for its feminine qualities, embodying justice, harmony, loyalty, and grace while possessing a strength and an unyielding momentum that propels it forward. These qualities resonate with MAX MARA’s ethos, making the Doge’s Palace the perfect backdrop for the 2025 Resort collection. The grandeur of the Palace’s layered Gothic architecture added to the splendor of the show, becoming one of its most defining highlights.

The MAX MARA 2025 Resort Collection draws inspiration from the historic “Silk Road,” with luxurious silk fabrics and earthy tones that reflect the spirit of Marco Polo’s legendary adventures. Intricate details such as oversized tassels and chunky drawstrings add a touch of intriguing elegance to women’s everyday attire. If the distinct garments represent the heart of the narrative, then the turbans and hats woven into context are the easter eggs. In collaboration with the legendary milliner Stephen Jones, MAX MARA crafted opulent headwear that spans centuries and cultures, adding a perfect finish to the Resort Collection theme of Silk Road.

From flowing, floor-length coats to sleek, tailored outerwear, the collection embraced the full spectrum of femininity. Known for its understated elegance, MAX MARA surprised the audience with touches of grandeur, a bold breakthrough that reignited reverential admiration for this enduring and iconic brand. 

簡約設計，精緻優雅

「於我而言，漢普頓不僅是一個地方，它是我的靈感來源，是我永遠的家和避風港。在這裡，湛藍的天空和大海交融，明媚的陽光灑滿角落，翠綠的草地與純白的柵欄，勾勒出一幅寧靜畫卷。」——Ralph Lauren

在因緣際會下，RALPH LAUREN在2025春季時裝秀重返靈感之源「紐約漢普頓」，以當地自然風光建構全新時尚美學，完全呈現了浪漫東海岸的精緻優雅。作為設計師，Ralph Lauren為秀場打造了多元故事情節，讓賓客們透過他的視角，體驗這個濱海小鎮的微鹹海風、無垠碧海與生趣盎然，賓客們猶如觀賞電影般酣暢淋漓，以獨特方式徜徉在Ralph Lauren的世界。回到服飾本身，品牌標誌性西裝外套與男士襯衫均以典雅藍白搭配呈現，長島的純白沙灘與晴空碧海在設計細節中呼之欲出，經典廓形大膽融合垂墜設計，盡顯漢普頓的不拘一格與粗獷優雅。該系列趣味模仿古董汽車內飾裝潢，以柔軟皮革搭配拋光金屬，Radica木製配件彰顯著精湛的義式工藝，搭配現場展出的多款古董汽車，品牌以極具風格的方式向世界訴說，Ralph Lauren長久以來對實用之美的熱情與讚頌。

Minimalist Design, Refined Elegance

“The Hamptons is more than a place. It’s a natural world of endless blue skies, the ocean, green fields, and white fences, rusticity and elegance with a quality of light that drew artists here decades ago. It has been home, my refuge and always an inspiration,” ——Ralph Lauren

In a serendipitous occurrence, RALPH LAUREN’s Spring 2025 Collection returns to Hamptons, the very cradle of his creative inspiration. The picturesque landscapes of the Hamptons form the backdrop for a fresh fashion narrative, capturing the quintessential elegance of the East Coast. Ralph Lauren wove a tapestry of stories into his runway, transporting guests into Hamptons’ world of salty coastal breeze, boundless blue horizons, and the lively charm of the coastal town. The immersive experience unfolded like a cinematic journey that meandered through Ralph Lauren’s distinctive vision.

As for the collection garments, RALPH LAUREN’s signature blazers and men’s shirts were showcased in a sophisticated palette of elegant blues and whites, with intricate details evoking the pristine sands and clear skies of Long Island. Iconic silhouettes were daringly fused with flowing drapery, embodying the rugged yet refined spirit of the Hamptons. In a playful nod to vintage car interiors, soft leather and polished metal were paired with Radica wood accents, highlighting the exquisite Italian craftsmanship. With an array of vintage cars as part of the display, the collection was an eloquent and stylish tribute to Ralph Lauren’s enduring passion and odes to the beauty of practicality.