川香流轉,雅意永恆——川雅 Sichuan Elegance: Timeless Sophistication of Chuan Ya

EDITOR Annie Lu|TRANSLATOR Sherry Chen|PHOTOGRAPHER Leon Hung

位於台北信義區微風南山高樓中的川雅,無論是空間還是料理,都充分體現「傳統」與「優雅」的結合。川雅主打精緻川菜,以細膩、豐富的味覺層次,帶給食客非凡的體驗與文化沉浸。從進入餐廳那一刻起,客人就能感受到與傳統川菜截然不同的氛圍,而這正是一場川菜與當代美學的交織,無論是視覺還是味覺,都充斥著創新與不凡。

Perched high above Taipei’s Xinyi district in the Breeze Nanshan Tower, Chuan Ya blends tradition with elegance in both its ambiance and cuisine. Chuan Ya’s sophisticated take on Sichuan flavors presents meticulously crafted dishes that deliver rich, layered flavors, inviting diners to an immersive cultural experience. From the moment guests step in Chuan Ya, they are greeted by a contemporary interpretation of Sichuan’s vibrant flavors and aesthetics, setting the stage for a visual and gustatory journey that is both innovative and refined.

川雅位於微風南山46樓。
Chuan Ya, Located on the 46th floor of Breeze Nanshan.

五感盛宴

走進川雅,映入眼簾的是一道橘紅色的牆面,內部點綴著溫潤的米灰色佈置,整體空間營造出一種寧靜的氛圍。這樣的設計正是為了讓客人能夠完全放鬆,進入一個遠離都市喧囂,並專注於美食的世界。從桌上的餐具到燈光的調和,無不透露川雅對於「優雅」的詮釋與追求。作為台灣首間川菜Fine Dining餐廳,川雅也徹底顛覆大家對傳統川菜館的印象,因為傳統川菜以麻、辣、鮮、香著稱,其味道多層次且充滿刺激,而川雅則是在此基礎上,加入更多精緻和現代的烹飪手法,將川菜背後的文化故事與細膩口感呈現給食客。

A Feast for the Senses

Upon entering the restaurant, guests are greeted by an orange-red accent wall that contrasts elegantly with the warm, beige-gray interior, creating a serene ambiance. The tranquil design invites a relaxing dining experience, a place that focuses on the world of cuisine away from the bustling city. From table settings to lighting fixtures, every detail embodies Chuan Ya’s dedication to sophistication and its interpretation of “elegance.” As Taiwan’s first fine dining Sichuan restaurant, Chuan Ya redefines traditional perceptions of Sichuan cuisine, known for its numbing heat, bold spices, fresh, and aromatic layers. While honoring these foundations, Chuan Ya elevates the experience with refined and modern culinary techniques that deliver a rich narrative of heritage and innovation.

川雅主廚王國政。Chuan Ya’s Executive Chef Jason Wang.

川菜哲學

川雅主廚王國政在川菜的世界裡不斷探索,不侷限於傳統的「麻辣」標籤,而是追求一種更為豐富和細膩的味覺體驗,他提到:「川菜其實不止於麻辣,它有著複雜的味型,每一道菜都有它自己的故事和層次。」他對於客人的反饋與看法也十分開放,從傳統的認知到新的挑戰,他都樂於接受並加以調整,主廚分享道:「有些客人一開始覺得我們的菜不夠辣,因為他們心目中的川菜就是要麻辣十足,但我希望的是客人在這裡能夠感受到川菜的多樣性,享受它的細膩以及我加入的巧思,而不是單純的口感刺激。」這而也在使他在保持川菜核心的同時,不斷創新與調整,讓每一位食客都能體會到川菜更多不同的口味。

The Philosophy of Sichuan Cuisine

Chuan Ya’s Executive Chef Jason Wang continuously pushes the boundaries of traditional Sichuan cuisine, moving beyond the stereotypical “málà.” “Sichuan cuisine isn’t just about numbing and spiciness,” Chef Wang explains, “It embraces complexity—each dish has its own story and depth.” Chef Wang is also very receptive to feedback, from traditional culinary to innovative challenges, Chef Wang enjoys the process of refinement. “At first, some guests would feel our dishes are too mild, as they are accustomed to Sichuan’s iconic málà. I want them to discover the diverse subtleties and craftsmanship beyond the intensity,” he adds. This delicate balance honors Sichuan roots in innovation and adjustments while offering diners to savor the profundity of Sichuan cuisine.

糊辣脆蔥燒遼參,嚴選 Q 彈嫩滑遼參,搭配以乾辣椒、花椒、蔥粒與炸脆蔥拌炒爆香而成的糊辣風味,香辣鹹鮮交織,回味酸甜。The Spicy Crisp Green Onion Sea Cucumber Uses Selected Juicy Sea Cucumber Stir-fried with Dried Chilies, Sichuan Peppercorns, and Crispy Shallots. The Bold, Spicy Flavors are Balanced by a Sweet, Tangy Finish./青花椒芝士海鮮焗蟹斗,將蘭花蟹蟹肉拆出,拌入青花椒、干貝、蝦粒、洋蔥、蘑菇與金針菇,製成風味濃郁的內餡,釀入預留的半個蟹蓋中,撒上起司與麵包粉,放入烤香焗烤至表面金黃,最後以巴薩米克醋珍珠點綴,淡淡奶香中帶有海鮮鮮味,伴隨青花椒的微麻香氣。The Gratin Crab with Sichuan Green Peppercorns and Cheese, Where Succulent Crab Meat is Mixed with Scallops, Shrimp Bits, Onions, and Mushroom Stuffings to Stuff into the Crab Shell. Cheese and Breadcrumbs are then Topped and Baked to Golden Perfection. A Touch of Balsamic Pearls Adds a Modern Twist, While the Green Peppercorns offer a Hint of Numbing Spice to the Creamy Seafood Filling.

獨特視角

川雅的每一道菜,都承載主廚的獨特視角和傳統川菜的精髓,他不僅熟悉川菜歷史,更將自己對食材與味道的想法融入每道料理中。例如,熟醉甜白蝦是一道融合江浙與川菜風味的佳作,選用印尼白蝦,經過低溫熟成,浸泡在黃酒、高梁與陳年花雕中,蝦肉鮮美多汁,酒香溫潤,再搭配話梅的微酸,讓味道更加層次豐富。這道菜讓人不禁聯想到川菜中的「醉」菜,但卻在技法與味道上增添了屬於川雅的現代詮釋。另一道酸湯蘿蔔鑲玉帶則運用紅酸湯與鮮嫩的干貝,結合開心果的香脆,帶來一場酸與鮮甜的味覺碰撞,同時將傳統川菜的豐富風味進行現代化的改造。而這些菜色不僅展示川菜的傳統魅力,也體現了主廚源源不絕的創意。

A Unique Perspective

At Chuan Ya, every dish reflects Chef Wang’s vision and the essence of Sichuan cuisine. The Aged Drunken Sweet White Shrimp, for instance, a delightful marriage of Jiangzhe and Sichuan influences, features Indonesian shrimp aged and marinated with yellow wine, Kaoliang, and aged Hua Diao wine. The wine aroma and tender, succulent shrimp, with tart notes of preserved plum, elevate the dish with rich flavors. This dish is similar to the “drunken” dishes in Sichuan cuisine, with Chuan Ya’s modern iteration of the techniques and flavors. Another standout is the Sour Radish Soup which brings together the red sour soup with succulent scallops and the crunchiness of pistachios, a clash of freshness and sour savors, and an innovative take on traditional Sichuan dishes. These dishes delineated the heritage allure of Sichuan, as well as Chef Wang’s flowing inspirations.

酸湯蘿蔔鑲玉帶,以番茄、辣油、糟辣椒、檸檬、檸檬葉熬煮而成紅酸湯基底,依序放上軟糯蘿蔔、溏心干貝,撒上開心果碎,鮮酸鮮甜中多了開心果的香脆層次。The Sour Radish Soup is Made from Red Sour Soup with Tomatoes, Chili Oil, and Fermented Chili, Lemon, and Lemongrass. Orderly Placed with Tender Radish and Soft-centered Scallops Topped with a Sprinkle of Pistachios, Adding Crunchiness to the Sweet and Tangy Complexity.

無限可能

未來,川雅的菜單也將會繼續結合傳統川菜的技法,以及主廚的靈感,為食客們獻上更多富有創意的料理,此外也會在服務、菜品解說上讓食客更加了解每一道菜背後的文化與故事。而菜單的更新方面是相對困難的挑戰,因為需要不斷地思考如何將不同的食材與風味結合,以展現各種口感。主廚提到:「未來的挑戰在於如何保持菜品的傳統風味,同時不斷創新,這對每個廚師都是一種考驗。」同時他也分享了川雅在中餐創新方面的努力,尤其是菜品選擇的多樣性,與西餐不同,川雅致力提供包含多達七道湯品和多種主菜的選項,這樣的靈活性也讓賓客們擁有更多元的用餐體驗。川雅不僅是一家餐廳,更是一個將傳統與創新不斷融合、演變的舞台,讓每一位食客都能感受到川菜的無限可能。

Infinite Possibilities

In prospect, Chuan Ya will continue to blend traditional Sichuan craftsmanship with innovative inspirations from the chef, delivering creative dishes. Chuan Ya will also continue to convey the Sichuan heritage and narratives through services and menu explanations. Launching new menus can be challenging; it requires careful cogitation on blending ingredients and flavors to showcase every taste. “Future challenges lie in preserving authenticity in ceaseless innovations. It is a challenge for every chef.” Chef Wang also shares Chuan Ya’s innovative commitment to Chinese cuisine, especially the dish variety. Different from Western cuisine, Chuan Ya is committed to providing more than seven soup items with many main dish selections. It is the unparalleled flexibility of Chuan Ya which gives guests a diverse dining experience. Chuan Ya is more than a restaurant; it is a stage where tradition and innovation marry and transform to showcase the boundless possibilities of Sichuan cuisine.

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