enya FASHION QUEEN

EDITOR Annie Lu｜TRANSLATOR Sherry Chen｜PHOTOGRAPHER Leon Hung

「鮨嘉仁」的誕生，如同其名般，蘊含著「嘉」的美好卓越，「仁」的誠摯匠心，而這間位於台北松江南京商圈的頂級壽司店，是職人精神的延續，更是一場水到渠成的匠心之作。創辦人黃崇仁長年熱愛日本料理，渴望將最純粹的江戶前壽司帶入台灣，因緣際會下邀請到京都米其林一星「鮨和魂」前料理長奧地太一掌舵。從選材、技法到經營理念，鮨嘉仁的一切都恰如其分地匯聚，最終成就了這間極致匠心與味覺交融的殿堂，同時在總經理黃俊欽與奧地料理長攜手下，為饕客們打造一場最正統的江戶前壽司饗宴。

In the heart of Taipei’s Songjiang Nanjing district, Sushi Kajin stands as a testament to masterful artistry. True to its name—”Kajin” (嘉仁), where ‘Ka’ signifies excellence and ‘Jin’ embodies sincerity—this culinary gem is the culmination of artisanal tradition and refinement. Founded by Frank Huang, a longtime devotee of Japanese cuisine, Sushi Kajin was born from his vision to bring the purest expression of Edomae sushi to Taiwan. A serendipitous encounter with Okuchi Taichi, former head chef of Kyoto’s Michelin-starred Sushi Wakon, led to the helming of Head Chef at Sushi Kajin. From ingredient selection, culinary techniques, and management philosophy, everything at Sushi Kajin converges into an extraordinary gastronomic sanctuary. Under the leadership of General Manager Huang Chun-Chin and Chef Okuchi Taichi, the most authentic Edomae sushi feast is crafted for all connoisseurs.

台日交匯

對料理長奧地太一而言，來台最大的挑戰並非技術，而是環境與文化的適應。他發現，台灣的水質、氣候、濕度與日本截然不同，影響著米飯的烹煮與熟成效果。他特地從日本帶來專用煮飯鍋，嚴選富山縣笹錦米與新潟縣越光米，並透過岐阜縣赤醋、愛媛縣米醋及 Mizkan 白菊米醋的調和，創造出溫和而層次豐富的醋飯風味。此外，他選擇不在壽司飯中添加糖，而是透過控制火候與水分，讓米飯自然帶出甜味，以符合台灣人對口感的偏好。黃俊欽總經理認為，這絕對是一場技術與文化的雙重挑戰：「很多壽司店會隨市場需求調整菜單，但我們希望客人能理解江戶前壽司的本質，而不是迎合大眾口味去改變它的核心精神。」這樣的理念，使「鮨嘉仁」在台灣壽司市場中獨樹一幟。

Japan Meets Taiwan

For Chef Okuchi Taichi, the greatest challenge of bringing Edomae sushi to Taiwan wasn’t technique, it was adapting to an entirely new culinary landscape. Taiwan’s water quality, climate, and humidity differ drastically compared to Japan’s. It affects everything from the way rice is cooked to how it matures. Determined to maintain authenticity, he imported a specialized rice cooker from Japan and meticulously selected a blend of Toyama’s Sasanishiki rice and Niigata’s Koshihikari rice. To achieve the perfect balance, he mixes Gifu’s red vinegar, Ehime’s rice vinegar, and Mizkan’s Shiragiku rice vinegar to blend sushi rice that is delicately mild, nuanced, and profoundly flavorful.

Instead of adding sugar to sushi rice, Chef Taichi adopts the inherent sweetness in rice through heat and moisture; refining the cooking process to accommodate Taiwanese flavors. This commitment to precision is something General Manager Huang Chun-Chin sees as both a technical and cultural challenge: “Many sushi restaurants adjust their menus to cater to market demand, but we hope to preserve the true essence of Edomae sushi. Rather than attuning to the public, we invite diners to experience its authenticity.” This unwavering dedication to tradition makes Sushi Kajin a niche dining experience in Taiwan’s sushi culinary scene.

職人堅持

江戶前壽司的精髓在於食材的選用與精湛的處理技法，奧地料理長以小肌魚為例，強調不同魚種的醃漬與熟成時間須依季節與脂肪含量微調，以確保風味的最佳呈現。「相同品種的魚，每條的肥瘦都不同，這是職人的基本功。」他說道。在鮨嘉仁的每一條魚皆須經過嚴格篩選，並根據不同特性施以熟成、醃漬、燻烤等技術，使其風味更加醇厚。食材方面，鮨嘉仁的食材皆來自日本，每週兩次從豐洲市場空運來台。奧地料理長認為：「江戶前壽司的精髓在於對魚獲進行一定程度的處理，而非僅僅追求鮮度。」體型較大的縞鰺需熟成 5 天以上，而小肌則透過多道醃漬與靜置工序，展現江戶前壽司獨特的風味層次。

Craftsmanship Tenacity

The essence of Edomae sushi lies in ingredient selection and masterful technique. Chef Okuchi Taichi exemplifies this philosophy with kohada (gizzard shad) to emphasize fine-tuning the curing and aging process of each fish based on seasonality and fat content. “Fishes of the same species may not have identical fat distribution, understanding and adapting to these variations is the basics of an artisan,” Chef Taichi is dedicated to presenting his dishes of the finest quality.

At Sushi Kajin, every piece of seafood undergoes rigorous selection before being treated through aging, curing, or smoking techniques to enhance its depth of flavor. Sourcing directly from Japan, the restaurant airfreights ingredients twice a week from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market. Chef Okuchi Taichi believes that the “Essence of Edomae sushi is not merely about freshness—it is about processing.” Larger Shima aji (striped jack) demands at least five days of aging to reach peak umami, while kohada undergoes multi-step curing and resting processes to deliver its signature complexity.

超越自我

近年來台北的頂級壽司店百花爭豔，但當總經理黃俊欽強被問到，關於鮨嘉仁在市場中的角色時，他強調：「我們的對手不是別人，而是自己。」他認為經營一家頂級壽司店，不能靠市場炒作或話題性，而是回歸到餐飲最核心的本質——味道與品質。他與料理長密切合作，確保餐廳的一切皆符合職人的高標準，也希望讓團隊持續學習與精進。「鮨嘉仁不追求不斷改變來吸引客人，而是希望料理長能夠將他心裡的想法忠實地呈現在料理中，讓每貫壽司都能夠傳遞他的理念與情感。」黃俊欽與奧地料理長雖然語言不通，但兩人都愛笑，很多時候，一個笑容便能跨越語言的障礙並化解挑戰，帶著樂觀的態度迎接下一步，而這樣的默契也讓餐廳充滿活力，塑造了獨特的團隊氛圍。

Beyond Excellence

Fine dining sushi has been competitive in Taipei in recent years. When asked about the restaurant’s place in the market, General Manager Chun-Chin Huang is resolute: “Our competition isn’t other restaurants, it’s ourselves.” He believes true excellence in fine sushi is not built on hype or trends. Instead, it is the most original aspiration of culinary, flavor and quality. His close collaboration with Chef Okuchi Taichi ensures that every detail of the restaurant meets the highest artisanal standards, fostering an environment where the team continuously learns and refines their craft.

“Sushi Kajin does not attract customers through trends and reinventions. We sincerely hope Chef Okuchi Taichi’s vision can be expressed authentically through his craft so that every piece of sushi conveys his philosophy and sentiments.”

Despite the language barrier, General Manager Chun-Chin Huang and Chef Okuchi Taichi both like to laugh; a simple smile bridges challenges, creating an optimistic energy that defines the culture of Sushi Kajin. It is this shared synergy that has shaped an unparalleled dining experience.

溫暖回饋

奧地料理長也透露，自從鮨嘉仁開幕到現在，客人的回饋給他非常多力量，他回憶有位熟客，過去曾五度造訪他在京都的餐廳，如今專程來到台北，只為再次品嚐他的手藝。「聽到這樣的回饋，我覺得所有的堅持都是值得的。」料理長感動地說道。

鮨嘉仁不只是提供頂級壽司的場所，更是一場味覺與文化的交流。就像黃俊欽提到：「我們會盡力滿足每一位上門客人的期待。」在鮨嘉仁，每一貫壽司傳遞著日本職人精神的橋樑，而每位來訪的客人都能感受到最純粹的江戶前壽司風味。

Heartfelt Reward

Since its inauguration, the greatest reward and motivation for Chef Taichi was the feedback from his customers. He recalls a devoted patron, who dined at his Kyoto restaurant five times and traveled to Taipei just for his artistry. “Hearing these kinds of appreciation makes every effort worthwhile,” the chef said sentimentally.

Sushi Kajin is more than a destination for fine sushi, it is a conversation between flavor and culture, as General Manager Chun-Chin Huang puts it: “Our mission is to fulfill the expectations of every customer who walks through our doors.” At Sushi Kajin, every piece of sushi bridges Japanese craftsmanship, and every customer can savor the most authentic Edomae sushi.