四季如詩,傳承為饌:三花日式料理—石福安料理長

EDITOR Annie Chien|TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin|PHOTOGRAPHER Leon Hung

在台北市中山區建國北路的繁華一隅,三花日式料理以恆久職人精神與懷石料理的深厚底蘊,為都市生活注入一道靜美的留白。這裡,少了喧囂多了心意,料理長石福安以三十年的板前壽司歷練,將日式哲思化作一道道四季旬味,為饕客打造一場感官與情感交織的盛宴,以一道道料理,細水長流地講述「慎於一念、敬於一器、誠於一味」的初心。

A Poetic Journey Through the Seasons — Chef Shih Fuan of Sunflower Kaiseki Restaurant

Nestled within the bustling Zhongshan District of Taipei, Sunflower Kaiseki Restaurant offers a moment of quiet grace, where the enduring spirit of the shokunin and the refined essence of kaiseki cuisine converge. Here, serenity replaces clamor, and each dish reflects heartfelt intention. With over three decades of experience at the sushi counter, Chef Shih Fuan transforms Japanese philosophy into seasonal expressions of taste, weaving an elegant tapestry of sensory and emotional resonance. His cuisine speaks softly yet profoundly of a core belief: mindfulness in thought, reverence in vessel, sincerity in flavor.

歲月沉香,石福安料理長的三十年板前之路

石福安料理長的料理人生,彷若一場與時間共修的旅程。從早年學習日料,習於日本師傅的嚴謹與克己,到今日坐鎮三花板前,他始終以謙遜態度對待料理,將筆記本上細緻的記錄轉化為四季餐桌上的靈感。

「當初做過的筆記,是今天創作的根源。」石福安料理長說道,隨著飲食習慣的演變,三花日式料理亦隨之轉型,從傳統的飽滿之味走向現今講究份量與細緻並重的精巧呈現。飲食習慣隨時代變遷,但未曾鬆動分毫的是料理長的職人精神,石福安料理長以穩定手藝承接新舊交錯的節奏,讓每一道料理都蘊含歲月的溫度,與手心的細膩。

Fragrance of Time — Three Decades Behind the Counter

Chef Shih’s culinary journey unfolds like a quiet dialogue with time. From his formative years under the disciplined guidance of Japanese masters to his current post at the helm of Sunflower’s counter, he has remained humbly devoted to the craft. Pages of meticulous notes once scribbled in youth now bloom as inspiration on today’s seasonal table.

“Those notes I took back then are the roots of what I create today,”
— Chef Shih Fuan.

As dining preferences shift, so too has Sunflower’s presentation—evolving from rich, traditional flavors to a refined balance of portion and detail. Yet through every transformation, Chef Shih’s artisanal discipline remains unwavering. With steady hands and a grounded spirit, he embraces the rhythm of past and present, ensuring that every dish is steeped in the warmth of experience and the precision of touch.

旬味入詩,懷石寄情

懷石料理之美,在於對四季自然的體察與轉化,石福安料理長將「自然、簡樸、優雅」的核心精神,融入食材的選擇與料理的構思中,讓每一道佳餚都保有本真風味與當令特色,與每年親赴日本挑選的器皿,共奏一場感官協奏曲。

從春野山菜、夏季鮮魚,到秋冬根莖與溫潤湯物,透過細膩烹調與器皿搭配,呈獻料理與自然的對話;以葉片、花草、器型構築四季餐桌風景,讓饕客猶如漫步於節氣變化的風景畫中,石福安料理長以四季為序、旬味為筆,續寫一場時間與自然共譜的詩篇。

Seasonal Poetry — Emotion in Kaiseki

The beauty of kaiseki lies in its sensitive reflection of nature’s cycles. Guided by the principles of naturalness, simplicity, and elegance, Chef Shih approaches each ingredient with intuitive clarity. Every plate honors its origin and the moment it inhabits, with handpicked tableware from Japan harmonizing with the dish in an artful sensory dialogue.

From mountain vegetables in spring to ocean-fresh fish in summer, root vegetables in autumn and soul-warming broths in winter, each dish speaks to a season’s mood. Leaves, blossoms, and vessel shapes compose a living still life across the table. Like brushstrokes on parchment, Chef Shih paints each course with the palette of nature’s ephemerality, composing a poetic feast in rhythm with time.

春夏綻香,舌尖上的時令光景

春夏氣息輕盈交織,三花日式料理以旬味詮釋自然的靜美。來自北海道的厚切平貝,佐以柚子與胡椒味噌,炙燒之後保留貝類原始的鮮甜與清爽;東港黑鮪魚正值產季,搭配日本大蔥照燒手法,將油脂豐美與蔥香交織成層層甘潤之味與海味的清麗之美。

一道「香檳茸上鮪魚筋煮」展現料理長創意與食材理解力,以台灣香檳茸取代松茸,搭配黑鮪魚與柚子胡椒高湯,甘甜中帶微辣層次,為春日餐桌注入在地食材與日料交會的獨特風味。老饕指名之選「冰屋」造型的生魚片與和牛蒸籠,在視覺與味覺中展現石福安料理長對懷石細節與食材本質的雙重掌握,烘托出春日食光的柔美意境。

Spring–Summer Splendor — A Tasting of Light and Season

Spring and summer bring a lightness of being, and at Sunflower Kaiseki Restaurant, this grace is expressed through the bounty of the season. Thick slices of pen shell from Hokkaido are gently seared, then dressed with yuzu and pepper miso—highlighting the shellfish’s natural sweetness and brightness. At the height of its season, black tuna from Donggang is paired with Japanese scallion in a teriyaki-style preparation, where rich marbling meets the fragrant warmth of scallion to create a delicate, layered sweetness.

A signature dish—Braised Tuna Tendon with Champignon Mushrooms—showcases Chef Shih’s creative spirit and deep understanding of ingredients. Taiwanese champignon takes the place of matsutake, simmered with black tuna tendon in a yuzu-kosho broth. The result is a subtly spicy, umami-laced note that breathes fresh local character into a classically Japanese expression.

Favorites among seasoned gourmets include the “Ice House” sashimi platter and wagyu in a bamboo steamer—both visually striking and tastefully restrained. These offerings capture Chef Shih’s dual mastery of visual aesthetics and ingredient essence, encapsulating the gentle light of springtime on a plate.

一念入味,時光款待

在日式料理百花齊放、競爭日益激烈的今日,三花日式料理以穩健的步調、溫潤熟悉的味道,款待每一位饕客。「我們希望穩定成長,吸引更多年輕族群,並讓老顧客持續感受到三花日式料理的用心。」石福安料理長如是說。

從食材選用、器皿挑選、空間氛圍到人情溫度,以不變的誠意與持續進化的料理語言,在都市光影之間,靜靜鋪展一道道雅致入心的日式風景,每一次在三花日式料理用餐,都是記憶中恆久溫柔的美好滋味。

A Thought Infused with Flavor — A Welcome Through Time

In today’s crowded field of Japanese cuisine, Sunflower Kaiseki Restaurant walks a steady, thoughtful path. Rather than compete with noise, it welcomes guests with grace, intimacy, and an unspoken elegance.

“We hope to grow steadily, to appeal to younger generations, while continuing to offer our loyal guests a heartfelt dining experience,”
— Chef Shih Fuan.

From ingredient selection and plateware curation to the warmth of service and ambiance, every element is approached with constant sincerity and an evolving culinary voice. In the shifting light of the city, Sunflower unveils a quiet but compelling Japanese landscape. Each meal is not merely an experience—it is a memory, gently preserved and elegantly served.

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