enya FASHION QUEEN

EDITOR Annie Chien｜TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin｜PHOTOGRAPHER Leon Hung

在台北嘉佩樂酒店，「焰28」象徵的不只是數字與火焰的結合，而是一種美學上的演繹。餐廳名稱源於直火的原始能量與 28 天乾式熟成的專注，主廚王偉榮承襲國際西餐廚藝訓練，將台灣土地上的滋味放入其中，以火的溫度串聯起傳統與現代，讓賓客在美食中感受文化的厚度與情感的溫潤。

由設計師 André Fu 操刀的空間，背後更以國家戲劇院為靈感，打造出充滿舞台張力的用餐氛圍。以紅色為核心，寓意火焰燃燒的力量，也映照出劇院的華麗層次，走入「焰28」，彷彿進入一場演出，每一道料理都是幕布緩緩拉開後的橋段。

At Capella Taipei, Ember 28 is more than a union of numbers and fire—it is an aesthetic statement. Its name reflects both the primal energy of open flame and the precision of 28-day dry-aged dedication. At the helm, Chef Lance Wang, trained in classical Western cuisine abroad, brings the flavors of Taiwan’s terroir to life. Through fire’s elemental warmth, he weaves together tradition and modernity, allowing guests to taste both cultural depth and emotional resonance in every dish.

Designed by André Fu, the dining room draws inspiration from Taiwan’s National Theater, creating a stage-like setting charged with dramatic tension. Red dominates the space, symbolizing the vitality of fire while echoing the grandeur of the theater. To step into Ember 28 is to enter a performance, where each course unfolds like a scene revealed behind the curtain.

「火是原始且純粹的語言。」這是主廚王偉榮對直火料理的體悟。他的啟蒙來自西班牙國寶級 Josper 烤箱，進一步在澳洲的全直火餐廳磨練廚藝，從開胃菜到甜點都以直火完成，讓他見識到火的無窮可能。對他而言，直火不僅僅是烹飪方式，更是一種將食材本質放大的美好。台灣的果木有限，他嘗試用龍眼木、荔枝木與栗木搭配，呈現不同煙燻氣息，冷燻鮭魚、熱燻肉類，甚至將煙燻融入醬汁裡。

如今在「焰28」，他希望火焰不再只是粗獷的烙印，而能帶來細緻的層次，例如牛肉塔塔搭配煙燻大蒜美乃滋，既保留煙燻香氣，又能與食材和諧共存，展現火候背後的掌控與思考。

“Fire is the most primal and pure form of expression,” says Chef Wang of his philosophy. His culinary awakening began with the legendary Josper grill in Spain, later honed in Australia at a restaurant where every dish—from starters to desserts—was crafted solely over flame. For him, fire is more than a method; it magnifies the very essence of ingredients.

In Taiwan, where local hardwoods are limited, he experiments with longan, lychee, and chestnut woods to create distinctive smokiness: cold-smoked salmon, fire-kissed meats, even sauces infused with smoked notes. At Ember 28, he strives for refinement beyond the rustic char—think beef tartare lifted with smoked garlic mayonnaise, where the smokiness lingers delicately, harmonizing rather than overwhelming. Each dish reflects not only technique but also contemplation of balance.

來自屏東的王偉榮，對夜市有著深厚的情感，他將這份平凡的滋味帶入「焰28」，讓記憶化為西餐的靈感。最具代表性的當屬直火炭烤小卷濃湯——靈感取自台南小卷米粉，以豆腐麵取代米粉，搭配直火烤香的小卷，湯底以熟成魚骨與蛤蜊熬煮，再佐自製 XO 醬，濃郁而清新。

這份精神也體現在牛排料理，他選用 28 天乾式熟成的美國紐約客，以龍眼木煙燻提升香氣，再搭配噶瑪蘭威士忌醬汁，將熟悉的味道提升為新穎的體驗，既親切又驚喜，同時也讓台灣的風土與國際經典互相輝映。

Born in Pingtung, Chef Wang carries with him a deep affection for Taiwan’s night markets. At Ember 28, he transforms these humble flavors into haute cuisine. Among the signatures is the char-grilled squid consommé, inspired by Tainan’s beloved squid vermicelli. Here, silky tofu noodles replace vermicelli, paired with fire-seared squid, while a broth of dry-aged fish bones and clams is enriched with house-made XO sauce—at once rich and refreshing.
This spirit extends to his steak program: the 28-day dry-aged USDA New York strip, smoked over longan wood, accompanied by a Kavalan whisky reduction. Familiar yet elevated, it bridges Taiwanese terroir with international classics, yielding flavors that are both comforting and exhilarating.

王偉榮相信，料理若要打動人心，必須與土地共呼吸，他親自走訪小農，從霧台神山愛玉、東港黑鮪魚到枋山愛文芒果，將南部的農產搬上餐桌：「當季」與「在地」是絕對的原則，每份菜單的起點往往來自市場的觀察與季節的氣候。

台灣夏季炎熱，他便運用酸甜、發酵與醃漬手法，讓料理清爽解膩；而街頭小吃如烤玉米、酸白菜，也在他手中換上嶄新的風貌。煙燻豬耳朵配手工麵疙瘩與酸白菜醬，將傳統元素轉換成細緻的風味層次，帶來意想不到的轉折。透過這些創作，他不僅讓食材被看見，也讓台灣的日常飲食文化以新的形式被珍視。

For Wang, cuisine must breathe with the land. He forges direct relationships with small farmers and fishermen, sourcing Wutai mountain aiyu jelly, Donggang bluefin tuna, and Fangshan Irwin mangoes. Seasonality and locality are not just ideals but guiding principles: menus begin with what is found in the markets, shaped by the rhythms of climate.
In Taiwan’s sweltering summers, he turns to acidity, fermentation, and pickling for balance. Street food memories—charred corn, pickled cabbage—resurface in unexpected ways. A dish of smoked pig’s ear with hand-rolled gnocchi and sauerkraut purée takes familiar elements and reframes them in refined layers, playful yet precise. Through such creations, daily Taiwanese flavors are not merely preserved but honored in new forms.

對於未來，王偉榮的想法很明確——料理應該是能讓人理解與感受的，而非遙不可及的表演。他希望持續以直火為核心，探索更多台灣土地與離島的食材，讓嘉佩樂的國際舞台成為展現在地精神的窗口。直火料理的價值，在於還原食材最真實的風味，而他所追求的，是讓這份真實被更多人品嚐與記住。「焰28」是火焰與台灣土地共同延伸的舞台，每一道料理，都是對生活的詮釋，也是對文化的致敬。

Looking ahead, Wang’s vision is clear: cuisine should be approachable, something to be felt and understood, not an untouchable spectacle. He remains committed to open-fire cooking while expanding his exploration of Taiwan’s landscapes and outlying islands, letting Ember 28 serve as an international stage for local spirit.
For him, the true value of flame lies in its ability to reveal the purest taste of an ingredient. And his pursuit is to ensure that this purity lingers—remembered by all who taste it. At Ember 28, each dish becomes both an interpretation of life and an homage to culture, where fire and Taiwan’s soil burn brightly together.