enya FASHION QUEEN

EDITOR Annie Chien｜TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin｜PHOTOGRAPHER Leon Hung

走進好嶼，會先感受到一種「被人用心款待」的氛圍。這裡沒有典型 Fine Dining 的拘謹，更像一處能讓人放鬆的都市綠洲，在此，步調變慢、感官被打開，不由想知道，一道道料理背後，藏著哪些故事。

主廚李易晏（Ian Lee）和夫人從第一家餐廳「一號島廚房」一路走到好嶼 2.0 ，這段旅程宛如他們長年穿梭在土地、產地、職人工作室與家之間的累積，如今的好嶼，不只是在餐桌上呈現台灣食材，而是希望透過料理、器皿與空間，看見那些努力把事情做到最好的人——農夫、職人、工藝家、釀造者，也包括主廚和團隊。好嶼之所以動人，在於真正承載了「人」的溫度。

Step into HOSU, and you’ll immediately sense something rare: the feeling of being genuinely cared for. This isn’t your typical fine dining space. Instead, it feels like an oasis tucked within the city—where the pace slows, the senses awaken, and curiosity quietly rises. What stories lie behind these thoughtful dishes?
From their first venture, No.1 Island Kitchen, to the evolved form of HOSU 2.0, Chef Ian Lee and his wife have carried the essence of their journey through years of connection with land, artisans, producers, and home. Today, HOSU is not only a celebration of Taiwan’s local ingredients—it’s a tribute to those who strive for excellence: farmers, craftsmen, brewers, potters, and the culinary team itself. What makes HOSU truly moving is that it holds, at its heart, the warmth of people.

好嶼主廚 Ian 起初並不是從廚藝科班出身，而是因為家庭從事肉品中盤，從小便在食材與餐廳間耳濡目染：「會自己做飯，應該說是因為爸媽很忙，把我自己一個人留在家裡，晚上了我真的很餓，就看冰箱有什麼東西，然後炒個飯來吃。」最初的下廚，是因為肚子餓；後來的堅持，則成為他一輩子的熱情。與夫人共同主理餐廳，是 Ian 一路走來最重要的動力來源，他形容自己是「比較浪漫主義」的人，常有很多天馬行空的想法，而夫人則常常把他拉回現實：「她會用一個比較客觀的第三者，把我拉回來。」這種浪漫與現實的結合，是好嶼能穩穩長大的關鍵。

從「一號島廚房」到「好嶼」，最大的成長不是風格，而是視野。早期以「台灣食材」作為出發點，深入產地後，Ian 更確信：「再好的食材，如果沒有願意照顧它的人，其實沒有辦法表現得好。」因此，好嶼開始把目光聚焦在「人」。餐廳裡的桌腳使用台灣相思木、椅子延續將軍藤椅工藝、器皿來自鶯歌許家陶藝與香港陶藝家合作等細節都象徵著 Ian 最在意的事——食材之外，「人」才是讓好嶼成立的本質。

Chef Ian’s path to cuisine wasn’t forged in culinary school, but shaped by his upbringing in a family meat business, where food and restaurants were part of everyday life. “I started cooking simply because I was hungry,” he recalls. “My parents were always busy, so I’d be home alone and just look through the fridge, fry some rice, and eat.” What began as necessity slowly became passion—and eventually, a lifelong pursuit.
Running a restaurant with his wife remains his greatest source of drive. Ian describes himself as a romantic, full of wild ideas; his wife, ever-pragmatic, grounds him. “She’s the one who pulls me back, like a third-party observer who brings me down to earth.” That balance of dream and reality has been key to HOSU’s steady growth.

The transformation from No.1 Island Kitchen to HOSU was not so much a change in style, but in vision. Initially centered on showcasing Taiwanese ingredients, Ian’s deeper explorations into the origin of food shifted his focus: “Even the best ingredients can’t shine without someone who’s willing to care for them.” HOSU, at its core, is about people. From acacia wood table legs and traditional woven chairs to handmade ceramics by Yingge’s Xu family and Hong Kong potters—every detail reflects Ian’s belief that beyond the food, it’s people who give meaning to HOSU.

加入「台灣生態廚師計畫」對 Ian 帶來深刻轉變，當年問起創辦人之一吳秀娟老師：「什麼是台灣味？」吳老師如此回答：「我們先不要管台灣味是什麼，我們先定義台灣是什麼。」一席話，也變成 Ian 做菜的重要底蘊：「台灣就是有一群人，生活在這個土地上。經歷了八八風災、九二一大地震、雷曼兄弟倒閉，各種不同的天災人禍，他們都還願意在這個地方生存的人，就是台灣，這些人吃的東西就是台灣味。」

Ian 自此開始重新定義台灣味，不是某道經典菜，也不是固定的傳統風味，而是由不同族群、不同背景的人共同生活在土地上所形成的樣貌：「新住民二代如果從小吃越南菜、印尼菜，那不就是他的台灣味嗎？」只要是用台灣食材、在台灣生活的人做出的味道，他都願意納入台灣味的範圍。永續也在這樣的思考裡成形，對 Ian 而言，永續不是口號，而是一句樸實的原則：「永續就是你有沒有一個珍惜食材的心。」在好嶼，一隻鵝進到廚房，每個部位都被完整利用——翅、腿、脖子、胸，全都找得到它們的歸宿；廚餘會被送進自家做的「蚯蚓箱」，變成肥料，再種出新的作物回到餐桌。

好嶼努力打造的是一個真正的循環——產地到餐桌，再從餐桌回到土地。Ian 說，台灣味就像這片土地一樣，是活的、會改變的，每五年、十年，都會長出新的樣子，而他希望做的，是用料理把「人與土地的關係」悄悄放回每一道菜裡。

Joining the Taiwan Eco-Chef Program marked a turning point for Ian. He once asked one of its founders, Professor Hsiu-Chuan Wu, “What is the taste of Taiwan?” Her reply left a lasting impression: “Let’s not worry about what Taiwan’s flavor is. First, let’s define what Taiwan is.”
That response shaped the philosophical backbone of Ian’s cooking: “Taiwan is defined by the people who choose to live here—through typhoons, earthquakes, financial crises. No matter what, they stay. That resilience—that’s Taiwan. And what they eat, that’s the flavor of Taiwan.”

From then on, Ian’s interpretation of Taiwanese flavor expanded. It wasn’t about a single dish or tradition—it was a mosaic shaped by those who call this land home. “If a second-generation immigrant grew up eating Vietnamese or Indonesian food in Taiwan, wouldn’t that be their flavor of Taiwan?” As long as the ingredients are local, and the hands that cook them are rooted here, Ian welcomes all of it into the definition.
Sustainability, too, grows naturally from this philosophy. “It’s not a slogan,” he says. “It’s simply about respecting ingredients.” At HOSU, every part of a goose finds its place—the wings, legs, neck, breast. Even kitchen scraps go into a worm composter they built themselves, later becoming fertilizer for crops that return to the table.

This is the full circle HOSU envisions—from the land, to the table, and back again. “The taste of Taiwan,” Ian says, “is living. It changes every five or ten years. It grows.” His hope? To let every dish quietly restore the relationship between people and the land.

拿下米其林綠星與一星後，好嶼被形容為今年的「大黑馬」。對 Ian 來說，這份榮耀不只是為了餐廳，更是讓他堅持十幾年的理念被看見的一種方式：「如果沒有米其林的肯定，好嶼在做的事情恐怕不會被任何人看見。」他坦白地說。即便站在舞台中央，他依然把事情想得很單純：「持續精進我們自己，然後發揮自己的影響力。如果可以讓更多台灣的美好被別人看見，就是我們最想要做的事情。」最感動的畫面不是客滿，而是客人吃完後對他說：「我想去花蓮看看，我想去台東看看，我想去雲林看看。」那代表好嶼的料理替土地打開了一扇窗。

Fine Dining 更在他的心中有了新的定義：「Fine Dining 的 Fine，不只是食材，更是做這件事的『人』。」精緻不是奢華，而是人心善良、願意努力、願意把事情做到最好的那份堅定。現在的好嶼生意好得讓他難以想像，但他仍把餐廳拉回最初的起點——讓客人覺得這一餐好吃、舒服，願意再回來，理念、永續、土地與台灣味，就在每一次回訪的過程裡，自然被看見。

After earning both a Michelin Green Star and one star, HOSU was hailed as the year’s dark horse. For Ian, the recognition wasn’t just a personal victory—it was a way to bring visibility to the ideals he’s quietly pursued for over a decade. “Without the Michelin spotlight,” he says frankly, “what we do might never be seen.”
Even now, at the center of attention, Ian keeps his perspective simple: “Keep getting better. Use our influence. If we can help more people discover the beauty of Taiwan—that’s all we want.” The most touching feedback isn’t a full house—it’s when a guest finishes their meal and tells him, “I want to visit Hualien. I want to go to Taitung. I want to see Yunlin.” That means his food has opened a window to the land.

To Ian, fine dining now holds a new meaning. “The fine isn’t just about ingredients—it’s about the people behind it.” True refinement isn’t luxury. It’s the quiet dignity of those who give their all, who choose kindness and effort, who do their work with care.
Though the restaurant’s popularity has exceeded anything he imagined, Ian always returns to his original intention: serve good food, make people feel comfortable, and inspire them to return. In every return visit, those deeper values—philosophy, sustainability, land, and the flavor of Taiwan—naturally unfold.