enya FASHION QUEEN

EDITOR Annie Chien｜TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin｜PHOTOGRAPHER Leon Hung

走進位於中山區建國北路靜巷內的君尹 Brisé，時間彷彿被帶進一個屬於法國的日常場景。主廚江丕禮（Chef Pili）將「法式」重新定義成一種更貼近人的語言：不是用技巧堆疊出華麗，而是把食材的本味與情緒，清楚地呈現在面前。

這裡有「全板前」的座位設計，料理在客人面前完成、上桌，從香氣撲鼻而來就能感受到每一步的細節與溫度。Chef Pili 希望客人吃得懂，並記得那段用餐時的舒適與美好。在他心中，FINE DINING 不該是距離感，因此，在君尹 Brisé，法式不是一套規矩，而是一種與食材、季節和情緒的對話，更像一種生活方式：優雅，但不矯情；精緻，但不疏離。

In a Quiet City Lane, Contemporary French Cuisine Focused on Essence
Chef Pili Chiang, Brisé

Tucked away in a quiet lane off JianGuo North Road in Taipei’s Zhongshan District, Brisé feels like a pause in time—transporting diners into a distinctly French sense of everyday calm. Here, Chef Pili Chiang (Chef Pili) redefines what “French” means: not a display of technical bravura, but a language that speaks directly to people, where the true character and emotion of each ingredient are presented with clarity and restraint.

Brisé features a full counter seating concept, allowing dishes to be completed and served directly in front of guests. From the first waft of aroma, diners can sense the care and intention behind every step. Chef Pili wants guests not only to enjoy the meal, but to understand it—and to remember the ease and comfort of the experience.
To him, fine dining should never feel distant. At Brisé, French cuisine is not a rigid set of rules, but an ongoing dialogue with ingredients, seasons, and emotion—a way of living that is elegant yet unpretentious, refined yet deeply approachable.

從汽修科到精緻餐飲，Chef Pili 的路看似跳躍，其實在思考方式上非常接近。如果說汽修科教會他的是「拆解與組裝」，那料理則是把這套邏輯，變成一種更有溫度的表達。他把食材像零件一樣拆解、理解，再重新組裝成一個完整系統。不同的是，料理多了一層情感——這層情感，往往不是刻意去追求，而是自然從記憶、氣味與當下的情緒裡浮現。

他說，料理像機械一樣需要結構與精準，但它更像一段故事。每次創作，他都會先讓味道呈現，因為他相信，當味道清晰了，敘述自然變得真實。這也是為什麼他強調：料理的起點不是名字，是滋味。他對「新世代主廚」的理解也很直接：不是盲目追求突破，而是以傳統手法為底，再用自己的角度重新理解季節與食材，讓料理既有深度，也能被人吃懂。在君尹 Brisé 吃到一道菜，不會只看到技法，會感覺到主廚在訴說：這是我記得的味道，也是我想跟你分享的那一段時光。

From automotive mechanics to fine dining, Chef Pili’s journey may seem unconventional, yet his way of thinking has always followed a similar logic. If auto repair taught him how to dismantle and reassemble systems, cooking became a warmer, more human extension of that mindset. He breaks ingredients down like components, understands their structure, then reassembles them into a coherent whole.
The difference is emotion—an element that often emerges naturally from memory, scent, and the present moment, rather than something consciously pursued.

He believes cuisine, like machinery, requires structure and precision—but it is ultimately closer to storytelling. Each creation begins with flavor, because once flavor is clear, the narrative follows naturally. This is why he insists that the starting point of a dish is never its name, but its taste.

Chef Pili’s view of the new generation of chefs is refreshingly grounded: not about chasing novelty for its own sake, but about standing firmly on classical foundations and reinterpreting seasons and ingredients through a personal lens. At Brisé, diners do not encounter technique alone—they sense a quiet message from the chef: this is a flavor I remember, and a moment I wish to share with you.

這一季的主軸「冬憶暖藏」，Chef Pili 把對台灣冬天的記憶與想像，轉化成一道道既熟悉又有新意的料理。他把冬天想像成一個需要時間醞釀的季節，因此大量使用發酵、醃漬、油封與慢燉等手法，讓時間成為風味的一部分，這也讓整套菜單呈現更沉穩、醇厚的氣質。

他將對母親熬煮冬日高湯的記憶，拆解重組成開胃小點《憶》蛤蜊澄清雞湯，用蛤蜊塔塔與法式澄清雞湯冷熱交替的方式，重現那股溫暖又清澈的滋味。另一道《冬果》金棗乳酪榛果，則把年節桌上的金棗，變成一顆顆金燦的迷你果實，酸甜與堅果香的平衡讓味蕾一口就進入冬天的氛圍。

熱前菜《靜火》以南法燉菜 Cassoulet 為精神，以湖南臘肉替代香腸，讓燉煮的厚度更貼近台灣年節的味道；牛舌的彈軟層次與白豆的溫潤，像把冬天的沉靜放進嘴裡。

主菜《暖香》是香料醃製的澳洲南方海濱和羊，帶出冬日的深沉的木質暖香，搭配杏桃果醬與開心果泥，讓整道菜像是一場冬季的節慶儀式。這一季的重點不在於「華麗」，而是讓人一口吃到冬天的記憶與情緒。

This season’s menu, titled “Winter Memories, Gently Preserved,” translates Chef Pili’s recollections and imaginings of a Taiwanese winter into dishes that feel both familiar and newly discovered. He sees winter as a season that requires patience, and therefore leans heavily on techniques such as fermentation, curing, confit, and slow braising—allowing time itself to become part of the flavor. The result is a menu with a calmer, deeper, more grounded character.

A childhood memory of his mother simmering winter broth is deconstructed and reassembled into the amuse-bouche Yi (Remembrance)—a clam tartare paired with hot-and-cold clarified chicken consommé, capturing a warmth that is both comforting and pristine.
Another dish, Winter Fruit, transforms festive kumquats into jewel-like bites, where gentle acidity and nutty richness immediately set the tone for the season.

The warm starter Still Fire draws inspiration from the Provençal cassoulet, replacing traditional sausage with Hunan-style cured pork to echo Taiwanese New Year flavors. Tender beef tongue and creamy white beans create a quiet depth—like tasting winter’s stillness itself.
The main course, Warm Aroma, features spice-marinated Australian lamb, its woody warmth enhanced by apricot jam and pistachio purée, evoking a ceremonial sense of winter celebration. This season is not about spectacle, but about allowing diners to taste memory, time, and emotion—one composed bite at a time.

身為新世代主廚，Chef Pili 認為最重要的是把每一次的進步落到實際體驗上：「現在的客人最在意的，是能不能吃得懂、能不能被一整段體驗打動。」

從訂位到服務、環境與料理的節奏，都是一條連續的線，而君尹 Brisé 把距離拉近，客人不再是被放在遠處觀賞，而是能看到料理如何誕生、聞到香氣如何擴散、看見細節。

這一季是他在君尹 Brisé 的第三季菜單，他希望下一季能有新的變化，但不會為了「變」而變。對一位主廚而言，一季替換整套菜單是一種挑戰，但也是 Chef Pili 激發創意的方式。未來，他希望人們記得的不是料理有多炫，而是因為有畫面、有層次、有溫度。想起君尹 Brisé，能想起的是清晰而舒服的味道印象，就像一段可以被反覆回味的記憶，讓法式的精緻，變成更容易靠近的日常。

For Chef Pili, contemporary fine dining ultimately comes down to experience. “What matters most to today’s guests,” he says, “is whether they can understand what they’re eating—and whether the entire journey resonates.”

From reservation to service, space, and pacing, everything forms a continuous line. At Brisé, that distance between kitchen and diner is intentionally shortened: guests witness dishes taking shape, smell aromas as they unfold, and observe the details up close.

This marks Chef Pili’s third seasonal menu at Brisé. While he looks forward to evolving the next chapter, change for its own sake is never the goal. Rebuilding an entire menu each season is a challenge—but also his way of staying creatively honest.

Ultimately, he hopes what people remember is not how dazzling the dishes were, but how vivid and comfortable the experience felt. When diners think of Brisé, he wants them to recall flavors that are clear, layered, and warm—like a memory worth revisiting, where French refinement becomes something quietly woven into everyday life.

君尹 Brisé
地址：台北市中山區建國北路一段 92 巷 8 號
電話：02-2509-1070
營業時間：
週一至週日午餐 12:00~14:30；晚餐 17:30~22:00