enya FASHION QUEEN

Fashion Contributing Editor Erica Wu｜TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin｜PHOTO LOUIS VUITTON, DIOR, GUCCI, VALENTINO, CHLOÉ

放眼 Cruise 2027，不難察覺隨著時代的更迭，經典與當代正以全新的方式重新交融。從世家工藝走向街頭文化，從博物館到紐約大道，優雅與龐克在時代的衝擊碰撞。如今，時尚早已不只是向過去致敬，而是在多元文化與當代視角之中，持續開創屬於這個世代的嶄新風貌。

Across the Cruise 2027 collections, one theme emerges with unmistakable clarity: the boundaries between heritage and modernity have become increasingly fluid. Rather than treating archival codes as untouchable legacies, today’s creative directors approach them as living languages—constantly evolving through contemporary culture, shifting identities, and new ways of dressing.

This season, couture craftsmanship meets street culture. Museum masterpieces converse with urban energy. Elegance no longer stands in opposition to rebellion; instead, the two coexist in unexpected harmony. Fashion is no longer concerned solely with preserving the past. It is about redefining it—allowing history to evolve alongside the people who wear it today.

LOUIS VUITTON

遊走世代與文化之間

當強勁的鼓點響起，這場關於巴黎與紐約的「雙城記」正式揭開序幕。創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière以兩座城市截然不同的文化性格為靈感，讓巴黎的精緻優雅與紐約的都會叛逆相互碰撞，遊走於經典與前衛、浪漫與率性之間。

在這場關於雙城的時尚敘事中，Nicolas Ghesquière 將具巴黎古典元素的高雅蕾絲、荷葉邊與丹寧、球衣、皮革等現代材質交織，展現出上流名貴與街頭流行的強烈對比。於是，Louis Vuitton 女性既可以是身穿寬鬆運動短褲、皮夾克與鋪棉摔角運動鞋的下城女孩，也可以是換上一襲古典花卉印花、抽皺蓬袖洋裝的上流名媛；甚至無須受限於任何單一身份，在街頭與沙龍、當代與復古、地下文化與上流社會之間自由遊走。服裝不再只是風格的載體，更成為穿梭於兩座城市、兩種文化與多重身份之間的媒介，展現屬於當代女性流動而多變的時尚樣貌。

Nicolas Ghesquière 的巧思不僅體現在服裝設計，更延伸至配件細節。他將紐約街頭隨處可見的城市符碼重新解構，從老虎機、汽車底盤到做舊皮革，皆化作全新的設計語彙融入系列之中，而流蘇與刺繡則被處理得宛如街頭塗鴉般率性直接，在精緻工藝與隨性筆觸之間取得巧妙平衡，使上流社會的優雅氣質與下城街頭的粗獷態度並存。本季更融入了美國塗鴉藝術家 Keith Haring塗鴉藝術風格，在皮革外套、上衣與洋裝都可見標誌性的流暢線條與鮮豔色彩，為系列注入濃厚的街頭藝術氣息與生命力，不僅是為 Louis Vuitton 增添鮮明的流行文化印記，也與秀場所在地——弗里克收藏館（The Frick Collection）所蘊含的古典藝術氛圍形成鮮明對比，在歷史與當代、藝術與時尚、優雅與叛逆之間，激盪出充滿張力的火花。

LOUIS VUITTON

Between Two Cities, Between Two Cultures

The show begins with the pulse of percussion—a rhythmic overture that immediately sets the stage for a tale of two cities.For Nicolas Ghesquière, Paris and New York are less geographical locations than two distinct cultural temperaments. One is shaped by refinement and tradition; the other by spontaneity, movement, and the restless energy of urban life. Cruise 2027 unfolds precisely where those worlds meet.

Rather than allowing one identity to dominate the other, Ghesquière orchestrates an ongoing dialogue between them. Delicate lace, romantic ruffles, and echoes of Parisian couture are paired with denim, athletic jerseys, supple leather, and padded wrestling-inspired sneakers. The contrast is deliberate, yet never confrontational. Instead, it reflects the reality of contemporary dressing, where elegance and ease naturally coexist.

The Louis Vuitton woman moves effortlessly between these worlds. One moment, she is a downtown New Yorker in oversized athletic shorts and a leather jacket. The next, she slips into a softly gathered floral dress with voluminous sleeves, embodying an entirely different expression of femininity. She belongs equally to the salon and the street, to heritage and experimentation, to the polished and the imperfect.

In Ghesquière’s vision, clothing is no longer simply an expression of personal style. It becomes a passport between cultures, identities, and generations—capturing the fluidity with which women navigate modern life.

That dialogue continues through the collection’s accessories.Objects borrowed from the visual landscape of New York are transformed into unexpected design elements. Slot machines, automobile undercarriages, weathered leather surfaces, and fragments of the city’s industrial vocabulary are reimagined through Louis Vuitton’s artisanal lens. Elsewhere, embroidery and fringed embellishments carry the spontaneous spirit of street graffiti, introducing an unpolished vitality that sits comfortably alongside the House’s meticulous craftsmanship.The result is neither traditionally aristocratic nor overtly urban. It occupies the compelling space between the two.One of the collection’s most striking collaborations comes through the work of legendary American artist Keith Haring. His unmistakable visual language—bold outlines, animated figures, and vibrant colour—appears across leather jackets, knitwear, and dresses, infusing the collection with the immediacy and optimism of New York’s street art movement.

The collaboration does more than introduce a pop-cultural reference. Presented within the historic setting of The Frick Collection, Haring’s graphic energy creates a fascinating dialogue with the museum’s classical surroundings. Fine art and street art. History and contemporary culture. Refined elegance and youthful rebellion.

Rather than competing with one another, they reveal how naturally these seemingly opposing worlds can coexist—an idea that lies at the very heart of Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2027 collection.

DIOR

永不停機的時尚夢境

在Dior Cruise 2027，Jonathan Anderson 以「夢」命題，將好萊塢這座造夢工廠直接搬進洛杉磯郡立美術館，融合電影敘事與高級訂製精神，打造介於現實與幻想之間的時裝世界。

而 Dior 與好萊塢這段淵源則要從經典電影《慾海驚魂》（Stage Fright）說起，德國傳奇女星Marlene Dietrich 在接演前的的一句「No Dior, No Dietrich」，成為了迪奧大師與好萊塢高級訂製戲服合作的開端，這段跨越數十年的情緣，也正是 Dior Cruise 2027 的靈感起點。

當經典被反覆提及，如何在傳承中創造新意，始終是每位創意總監的重要課題。Jonathan Anderson 將品牌標誌性的花卉印花自平面布料中解放，一朵朵立體花卉在裙間綻放，搭配細褶薄紗與流線堆積裙襬，步履間的搖曳感營造戲劇性的律動之美。而 Dior 經典 New Look的Bar Jacket 在本季也迎來全新演繹，揮別先前的短版剪裁，這次他選擇以更回歸生活的方式致敬，無論是以輕盈薄料打造的格紋長版大衣，或是下擺點綴不規則流蘇的花呢外套，在保留品牌高級訂製的底蘊同時，注入更流暢、更具當代感的比例與姿態，讓 Dior 的優雅在時代更迭中展現嶄新的韻味。

值得一提的是女裝敘事後，男裝在本季擁有更大的展現篇幅，如同進入以日常想像打造的另一場夢境。Jonathan Anderson 將熟悉的日常單品注入細膩且富層次的高級訂製手法，彷彿映上百葉窗光影的 Dior Gray 羊毛大衣或以銀鍊重新縫合的牛仔褲，都在克制之中展現精細巧思。除此之外，本季更攜手美國藝術家 Ed Ruscha 展開合作，將其代表性的「變奏文字」創作融入襯衫設計，極具日常與當代藝術性。而男裝不能忽視的羽毛帽飾細節則是與帽飾設計師 Philip Treacy 合作，精準定位將羽毛塑造成立體字型結構，又保留飄逸及纖細的生命力，隨著模特兒步伐輕輕擺動，帽飾宛如漂浮於空中的文字裝置，為整體注入介於現實與幻想之間的藝術氛圍，是本季關於「夢」的核心敘事中的點睛之筆。

DIOR

A Dream That Never Wakes

For Cruise 2027, Jonathan Anderson turns to an idea as timeless as fashion itself: dreams.

Rather than presenting a conventional runway, he transforms the Los Angeles County Museum of Art into an imagined cinematic landscape where reality and fantasy quietly dissolve into one another. Here, Hollywood is no longer simply the world’s dream factory—it becomes a stage upon which Dior’s couture heritage is retold through a distinctly contemporary lens.

The collection also revisits one of the House’s most enduring ties to Hollywood. The story dates back to Alfred Hitchcock’s Stage Fright, when German screen legend Marlene Dietrich famously insisted, “No Dior, No Dietrich,” before agreeing to appear in the film wearing Christian Dior’s creations. That declaration marked the beginning of a relationship between the House and Hollywood that has endured for decades, providing Jonathan Anderson with both a point of departure and a source of inspiration.

For every creative director who inherits an iconic maison, the challenge is never simply to preserve its legacy, but to discover new ways of allowing it to evolve.

Jonathan Anderson approaches that challenge with remarkable restraint.

Rather than quoting Dior’s history, he allows it to breathe.

The House’s signature floral motifs are liberated from the surface of fabric and transformed into sculptural blooms that appear to blossom directly from the garments themselves. Layers of finely pleated tulle and fluid cascading hems bring movement to every silhouette, creating an almost cinematic rhythm with each step. Flowers no longer function merely as decorative embellishment—they become living elements within the narrative, shifting gently between couture craftsmanship and dreamlike illusion.

Elsewhere, one of Dior’s most recognisable signatures receives an equally thoughtful reinterpretation.

The iconic Bar Jacket, long regarded as the embodiment of the New Look, is revisited through a softer, more contemporary perspective. Moving away from the cropped proportions seen in previous seasons, Anderson introduces elongated silhouettes that feel both relaxed and refined. Lightweight checked coats, flowing tailoring, and tweed jackets finished with irregular fringed hems retain the precision of haute couture while embracing a greater sense of ease.

The result is not a reinvention of Dior’s codes, but an evolution of them.

Elegance remains unmistakably Dior, yet it now carries a quieter confidence—one that feels entirely at home in the rhythm of contemporary life.

Following the womenswear narrative, menswear assumes an unusually prominent role this season, unfolding like a second chapter of the same dream.

Rather than pursuing spectacle, Anderson elevates familiar wardrobe staples through the language of couture. A Dior Gray wool coat appears almost illuminated by the soft shadows cast through Venetian blinds, while a pair of denim trousers, meticulously reconstructed with silver chain detailing, transforms an everyday garment into an object of extraordinary craftsmanship.

Throughout the collection, luxury is expressed through nuance rather than excess.

The dialogue between fashion and art continues through Anderson’s collaboration with acclaimed American artist Ed Ruscha,whose celebrated text-based works appear across crisp white shirts. His poetic manipulation of language introduces a quietly intellectual dimension, blurring the boundary between contemporary art and everyday dressing.

Among the season’s most unforgettable details are the feathered headpieces created in collaboration with renowned milliner Philip Treacy.

Rather than serving as decorative accessories, the feathers are sculpted into three-dimensional letterforms—light enough to sway gently with every movement, yet precise enough to resemble words suspended in mid-air. Floating above the models like fragments of an unwritten poem, they bring Jonathan Anderson’s central idea full circle.

In Cruise 2027, dreams are not treated as fleeting fantasies.

They become a language through which couture, cinema, memory, and imagination are woven together—allowing Dior’s past and future to exist within the same beautifully suspended moment.

GUCCI

繁華城市的衣櫥縮影

這是由 Demna 接掌後的首個早春度假系列，以「GucciCore」為主題，打造屬於紐約的都會日常衣櫥，並將漫步紐約街頭中能與之擦身而過的、形形色色的人作為主角。大膽的是，Demna 將秀場選址於紐約時代廣場，這座匯聚野心、繁華與商業能量的城市地標，而數個電子看板接連亮起，這座不夜城已然成為專屬 Gucci 的巨型伸展台，也為這場秀訂下基調。

Demna 坦言這可能是他做過最商業化的系列，從精準剪裁的H 型輪廓緞面西裝、略顯寬鬆的皮質風衣與格紋襯衫套裝，到帶著金屬光澤的牛仔套裝、亮片蛇紋喇叭褲或是寬大毛料外套與高開衩亮片流蘇裙，及兼具實用性的大包與鑲鑽晚宴包，系列涵蓋了商務、街頭再到晚宴服裝等多元穿著場合。

同樣，也能在本季窺探到許多在當代設計下重新詮釋與致敬的經典細節。經典紅綠織帶化為抹胸與包款配件細節，或是印花襯衫裙搭配雙 G 腰帶與毛料大衣，搖曳間透出若隱若現的標誌性滿版 Flora 花卉圖騰，在熟悉與創新之間取得平衡。

GUCCI

The City as a Wardrobe

Demna’s first Cruise collection for Gucci begins with a surprisingly straightforward proposition: the modern city itself is the ultimate wardrobe.

For Cruise 2027, he turns his attention to New York—not as an idealised fashion capital, but as a living stage populated by countless individuals, each dressed according to their own rhythm, profession, attitude, and ambition. Rather than constructing a singular narrative, Demna embraces the diversity of everyday urban life, allowing the city’s anonymous passersby to become the true protagonists of the collection.

The setting reinforces that idea.

Instead of choosing a secluded venue, Gucci takes over the heart of Times Square. As towering digital billboards illuminate the night sky, one of the world’s busiest intersections is transformed into an immense open-air runway. It is a location defined by commerce, spectacle, and relentless movement—qualities that have long shaped New York’s identity and now become part of Gucci’s own visual language.

Demna himself describes it as perhaps the most commercially minded collection he has ever designed.

Yet commercial, in this context, is not a compromise. It is an acknowledgement of how people actually dress.

The collection moves fluidly between the many roles modern life demands. Sharp H-line satin tailoring speaks to the corporate world, while oversized leather trench coats and checked shirt ensembles echo the effortless ease of everyday city dressing. Metallic denim introduces a youthful energy, balanced by snakeskin flared trousers shimmering beneath the lights of the city. Voluminous wool outerwear appears alongside high-slit sequined fringe gowns, while generously proportioned tote bags coexist with crystal-embellished evening clutches.

Businesswear. Streetwear. Evening dressing.

Rather than existing as separate wardrobes, they become part of the same conversation.

That sense of familiarity also extends to the House’s most recognisable signatures.

Demna revisits Gucci’s heritage without allowing nostalgia to dominate. The iconic green-and-red Web stripe reappears as bandeau tops and subtle handbag details, while printed shirt dresses styled with Double G belts and tailored wool coats reveal glimpses of the unmistakable Flora motif beneath layers of movement.

These familiar house codes are neither replicated nor discarded. Instead, they are absorbed into a wardrobe that feels unmistakably contemporary.

What emerges is not simply Gucci’s past revisited, but Gucci reimagined through the realities of metropolitan life.

In Demna’s hands, luxury no longer belongs exclusively to grand occasions.

It belongs to the woman hailing a taxi.

The executive leaving the office after dark.

The artist walking home through SoHo.

The tourist standing beneath the glowing lights of Times Square.

Cruise 2027 reminds us that fashion’s most compelling stories are often found not on the runway, but on the streets that surround it.

VALENTUNO

混搭中重塑高訂精神

在創意總監 Alessandro Michele 的操刀下，Valentino 延續一貫的復古與詩意，在以更貼合現代的輕盈剪裁之下，淡化男、女裝的設計界線。

本季系列取景於米蘭擁有十五世紀壁畫的歷史宅邸Villa Gaia Gandini ，並未刻意凸顯古宅的厚重歷史感，而是將其化作一處向所有人敞開的大宅，營造自在且充滿生活氣息的場域。這樣的空間概念也呼應本季標語 「You can come to my villa」，傳遞敞開心扉、擁抱多元與自由共融的精神。標語也貫穿系列，如紅色鋪棉外套、衛衣套裝、托特包等，皆有刺繡字樣，富有玩心。

服裝以品牌富有的古典浪漫與極繁主義為底色，透過混搭將現代更多元的搭配需求展開，也將高訂工藝與運動休閒輪廓完美平衡。像是皮草與亮片外套、街頭感衛衣及學院風百褶裙隨心組合、華麗花呢外套搭配單寧長褲，都展現 Alessandro Michele 擅長的混搭手法，再搭配全新Rockstuds釘飾高跟鞋或球鞋、鴨舌帽與、浮誇的珍珠耳環，打破既定高訂框架，演繹現代更為自由且多元個性的穿衣方式。

「保有孩童般的心，同時帶著幾分不循規蹈矩」是Alessandro Michele 賦予系列的核心精神。在浪漫與優雅中，這種帶有玩心的叛逆氣質，透過鮮豔色彩、誇張比例及富有戲劇感的搭配方式，傳達每個穿衣者在當代能夠自由展現自我的態度。

VALENTINO

Where Couture Meets Play

Ever since taking the helm at Valentino, Alessandro Michele has never viewed romance as something fragile or distant. In his world, elegance is layered with curiosity, nostalgia is never static, and couture is free to mingle with the everyday.

Cruise 2027 continues that conversation.

Presented within Villa Gaia Gandini, a historic Milanese residence adorned with fifteenth-century frescoes, the collection resists treating its setting as a museum piece. Instead, Michele imagines the villa as a lived-in home—warm, welcoming, and filled with the quiet intimacy of everyday life. It is a place where history is not preserved behind closed doors, but shared.

That spirit is encapsulated in the season’s recurring phrase, “You can come to my villa.”

More than a slogan, it becomes an invitation.An invitation to openness.To individuality.

To a world where differences are embraced rather than erased.

The message appears throughout the collection, embroidered across quilted red jackets, relaxed sweatshirts, and oversized tote bags. Witty without feeling ironic, it introduces a playful thread that runs quietly through the entire wardrobe.

Michele has always possessed an instinct for bringing together things that seemingly do not belong.

Here, Valentino’s unmistakable romanticism provides the foundation, while contemporary styling introduces a sense of spontaneity. Couture craftsmanship and casual dressing no longer exist at opposite ends of the spectrum; instead, they enrich one another.

A richly embellished tweed jacket is paired with relaxed denim. Sequined outerwear slips effortlessly over collegiate pleated skirts and oversized hoodies. Luxurious fur sits comfortably alongside sportswear-inspired silhouettes. Nothing feels overly considered, yet every look reveals an extraordinary understanding of proportion.

It is styling that appears instinctive, even when every detail has been meticulously composed.

Accessories further dissolve the traditional boundaries of couture.

The new Rockstud heels and sneakers are styled with baseball caps, dramatic pearl earrings, and richly layered jewellery, allowing formal and informal references to coexist with complete ease. The result feels liberated from conventional ideas of occasion dressing.

Luxury, Michele suggests, should never feel restrictive.

Rather, it should reflect the individuality of the person wearing it.

At the heart of Cruise 2027 lies an idea Michele returns to time and again: retaining a childlike sense of wonder without losing the confidence to challenge convention.

That balance between innocence and irreverence defines the collection.

Bold colours, exaggerated proportions, and theatrical layering create moments of joyful surprise, yet beneath their visual exuberance lies something remarkably sincere.

For Michele, dressing has never been about following rules.

It is about storytelling.

About curiosity.

About allowing clothes to express the contradictions that make each individual unique.

In Cruise 2027, Valentino becomes more than a house of couture.

It becomes a place where imagination is welcomed, personalities flourish, and getting dressed feels less like adhering to tradition than embracing the freedom to become whoever you choose to be.

CHLOÉ

以剪裁詮釋女性魅力

本季 Chloé 選擇回望歷史經典，汲取自 1990 年代末薩佛街訂製工藝的精髓，以俐落的結構與精緻工藝，重新勾勒當代女性遊走於結構與輕盈、秩序與自發性之間，自由流動的多元樣貌。回溯本次靈感聚焦的時期—— 1990 年代，英國薩佛街（Savile Row）的傳奇裁縫 Edward Sexton 加入 Chloé 工坊擔任剪裁顧問，便將薩佛街精湛的訂製工藝，融入品牌柔美而富有女性氣質的設計語彙之中。而 Edward Sexton 以重新定義 1960 至 1970 年代英式男裝訂製剪裁聞名，也曾為披頭四樂團（The Beatles）及 Mick Jagger 打造經典造型。在當時，他便以更鮮明的比例與結構，賦予傳統剪裁嶄新的想像；如今，這份源自品牌典藏的靈感被喚醒，將剪裁藝術重新詮釋為一種在經典傳承與當代創新之間持續演進的設計語言。

系列單品以修長俐落的西裝外套與三件式套裝為主軸，透過比例調整型塑不同的女性優雅，包括小巧的沙漏輪廓短版外套、微短騎裝外套，或是採用灰色混紡羊毛與白色細條紋面料打造的俐落剪裁，皆在過往的品牌檔案中注入新樣貌。而在剛與柔的平衡之間，以綁帶式西裝背心與薄紗細褶長裙等輕盈飄逸單品搭配，或是具流動感的緞面洋裝、經成衣染色處理的內衣風連身裙以及點綴透視蕾絲、多層次的荷葉邊，都在輪廓、材質、結構的交錯中，描繪現代女性自在遊走於柔美與俐落、輕盈與力量、感性與理性之間的多元樣貌。系列以柔和的粉彩中性色調與日曬般褪色的自然色彩為系列基調，並以黑與白點綴，讓女性的剛毅與柔美兩種特質，在流動的色彩層次中自然共存。

Chloé 2027 春季系列延續品牌對女性魅力的探索，透過細膩的結構工藝與精緻質感，勾勒柔和、性感且多變的女性姿態，讓不同面向的氣質自在流轉，最終凝聚為當代女性不受框架束縛的迷人魅力。

CHLOÉ

Tailoring as a Portrait of Modern Femininity

For Spring 2027, Chloé turns to one of the defining moments in its own history, drawing inspiration from the enduring craftsmanship of Savile Row tailoring to explore a contemporary vision of femininity. Through refined construction and considered proportions, the House portrays women who move effortlessly between structure and softness, discipline and spontaneity—embracing the many facets of their identity with quiet confidence.

The story traces back to the late 1990s, when legendary British tailor Edward Sexton joined the Chloé atelier as a tailoring consultant. Best known for reshaping the language of British bespoke tailoring throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Sexton challenged convention with sharper proportions, sculptural silhouettes, and a bold new approach to menswear. His clientele included cultural icons such as The Beatles and Mick Jagger, whose wardrobes helped define an era.

At Chloé, however, Savile Row precision found an entirely different expression. Rather than imposing the codes of traditional tailoring, Sexton wove its discipline into the House’s inherently feminine aesthetic, creating a dialogue between structure and softness that became a distinctive part of Chloé’s design language. Today, that chapter of the brand’s history returns not as nostalgia, but as a source of inspiration—one that continues to evolve between heritage and modernity.

Tailoring forms the foundation of the collection. Elongated blazers and impeccably cut three-piece suits establish a confident silhouette, while subtle shifts in proportion introduce different expressions of elegance. Cropped jackets sculpted into delicate hourglass shapes, abbreviated riding jackets, and sharply tailored pieces crafted in grey mélange wool with fine white pinstripes all revisit familiar house codes while bringing them firmly into the present.

Yet precision never comes at the expense of softness.

Wrap-front tailored waistcoats are paired with finely pleated chiffon skirts that move lightly with every step, while fluid satin dresses, garment-dyed lingerie-inspired slips, sheer lace, and cascading layers of ruffles introduce an effortless sense of femininity. As silhouette, fabric, and construction interact, they reveal a wardrobe that moves naturally between strength and grace, confidence and sensitivity, structure and fluidity—capturing the many dimensions of the modern woman.

The colour palette echoes that same sense of balance. Gentle pastel neutrals and naturally sun-faded hues create an atmosphere of understated warmth, while touches of black and white provide definition and contrast. Together, they allow strength and softness to coexist with quiet ease, much like the women Chloé designs for.

Spring 2027 continues the House’s enduring exploration of femininity through the language of tailoring. Thoughtful construction, tactile fabrics, and graceful movement come together to create silhouettes that feel soft yet assured, sensual yet understated, refined yet effortlessly modern. Free from rigid definitions, Chloé celebrates a woman who embraces every side of herself—and finds confidence in the freedom to be all of them.