EDITOR Erica Wu｜TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin｜PHOTO LOUIS VUITTON、DIOR、SAINT LAURENT、BOTTEGA VENETA、FENDI、PRADA、BURBERRY
2026秋冬，時尚進入一個重新定義風格的階段。本季設計師不再單純追求新奇，而是從材質、比例、性別與造型語彙出發，重新拆解我們對「穿衣」的想像。毛料與皮革展現更豐富的材質層次，混搭與強烈對比創造新的視覺張力；性別流動持續突破既有框架，而超大比例配飾則成為本季不可忽視的造型焦點。從秀場走進日常，真正值得關注的，是這些趨勢如何轉化為下一季衣櫥裡的風格選擇。
AW26 Reframed | Five Fashion Keywords from Runway to Wardrobe
Autumn/Winter 2026 marks a season of recalibration. Rather than pursuing novelty for its own sake, designers are returning to the fundamentals of dress—material, proportion, gender and styling—and asking how each might be reconfigured. Wool, leather and fur-like surfaces take on greater depth, while unlikely pairings and sharp contrasts create new visual tension. Gender-fluid dressing continues to loosen inherited codes, and outsized accessories emerge as structural elements rather than finishing touches. As these ideas move from runway to wardrobe, the real point of interest lies in how they will shape the choices we make next season.
時尚關鍵字一：柔性雕塑輪廓
以往提到秋冬，總會聯想到厚重毛料、硬挺皮革所營造出的沉穩與厚實感。 然而，2026 秋冬各品牌重新詮釋保暖服裝的語言，不只是依靠厚度展現份量，轉而透過布料的垂墜與結構變化，讓輪廓變得更加柔和且富有律動，為秋冬注入新的視覺樣貌。 Dior 以立體剪裁賦予服裝靈動的生命力， 短裙下襬如花朵盛開的放射狀；短版夾克除了顛覆經典廓型，較厚實的緞布也透過不規則扭轉下襬中更顯自由與活力。Burberry 經典風衣也在本季換上新樣貌，以不規則的荷葉領設計取代傳統翻領，讓俐落輪廓多了一抹柔美韻律。
本季，寬肩輪廓也出現新的變化，大衣與夾克除了延續俐落方正的長方形肩線，也開始轉向更加圓潤、飽滿的廓型，讓肩部輪廓在放大比例之餘，更添柔和而立體的視覺效果。Louis Vuitton 將誇張的肩型凝具成更貼近日常衣櫥的造型，在肩部可見流暢飽滿的弧型，放大輪廓卻不顯生硬。Saint Laurent 除了以倒三角廓形放大肩部比例，也將腰身刻意收窄，並讓胯部輪廓離開身體，形成鮮明的 X 型，展現更具女性氣韻的立體身形。Bottega Veneta 則將服裝空間往外延伸，以彷彿注入空氣般的圓潤肩型輕盈包裹身體，另外透過寬腰帶勾勒出 X 型，於腰際束起的放射線條如雕塑般渾厚流動。
Keyword 1: Soft-Sculpted Silhouettes
Autumn/winter wardrobes have long been defined by dense wool, structured leather and an unmistakable sense of weight. For AW26, however, warmth is no longer expressed through thickness alone. Drape, cut and construction allow garments to hold volume while remaining soft and mobile, giving cold-weather dressing a more fluid, expressive profile.
At Dior, cropped Bar jackets sit above tiered, ruffled mini skirts that fan outward like petals, turning the house’s familiar architecture into something lighter and more responsive. Asymmetric fastening, softened peplums and bustle-like volume allow the silhouette to bloom as the body moves. Burberry approaches the same idea through its most recognisable icon: the trench. Ruffled faille collars replace conventional lapels, softening the coat’s utilitarian precision with a more romantic cadence.
Broad shoulders remain, but their geometry has changed. Louis Vuitton moves between peaked and rounded forms, enlarging the upper body through sculptural capes, generous coats and protective outerwear. The proportions are dramatic, yet the fullness of the curves prevents them from feeling rigid. Saint Laurent sharpens the shoulder before drawing the line inward at the waist; belted shearling and structured lace then extend the silhouette at the hips, setting masculine tailoring against a distinctly feminine curve. At Bottega Veneta, rounded shoulders, generous sleeves and substantial belts create space around the body, so that volume feels cushioned rather than hard.
時尚關鍵字二：無聲工藝細節
隨靜奢熱潮，品牌紛紛開始以「工藝」彰顯，而作為注重質感與處理工藝的皮革材質便是考驗品牌工藝底蘊的元素之一。Louis Vuitton 許多造型以皮革編織做出異材的分割與連接，交錯的紋理賦予人文溫度，其中混如粗皮條的毛衣便是最好範例。在 Bottega Veneta 的打造下，皮革除了以標誌性的編織結構外，也能以條豎狀精細切割，因應材料特性能隨身體展現不同空間感與光影曲線。 而 Fendi 則將象徵女性符號的蕾絲融入硬挺皮革，細膩的鏤空紋路在皮革上蔓延，剛柔交織的對比下，賦予經典皮裝更鮮明的個性與層次。Burberry 套裝運用立體壓紋與百褶設計增添層次變化，皮質大衣也以特殊處理讓格紋自然延展表面，細節中展露更現代感的都會氣質。
精緻圖紋中顯露高級質感，透膚的蕾絲在極致工藝下也可以很有份量。本季 Fendi 從女性視角出發，大量運用蕾絲元素，精準剪裁下勾勒流暢曲線，輕盈材質中展現優雅身形 ；Saint Laurentl 則為蕾絲注入矽塗層工藝 ，顛覆柔軟與脆弱想像，讓蕾絲套裝維持硬挺輪廓，同時擁有輕薄的視覺效果。
秋冬最不能忽略的毛料與皮草在本季以多種工藝處理迎來不同的樣貌。 Bottega Veneta 將多款單品以水洗呈現出收縮捲曲或毛絨如同流蘇般的視覺效果。另外，於今年春夏秀場驚豔全場的玻璃纖維毛料也延續至秋冬系列。透過精準剪裁與不對稱設計，服裝隨著身體擺動展現流動光澤，大面積的鮮豔純色也更具輕盈跳躍感。Burberry 在本季則將經典格紋與毛料融合，大衣透過豎向的毛流紋理塑造修長輪廓，並以酒紅、黯藍與黑色等深邃色調交織，展現低調奢華且富有層次的立體質感。
Keyword 2: Quiet Craftsmanship
In the wake of quiet luxury, craftsmanship has become one of fashion’s clearest markers of value. Leather is particularly revealing: every cut, join, edge and surface treatment exposes the depth of a house’s technical knowledge.
Louis Vuitton uses patchwork and leather edging to connect contrasting surfaces, giving skirts, trousers and layered outerwear a hand-worked warmth. At Bottega Veneta, the house’s signature Intrecciato is loosened into strips and fringe, allowing the leather to shift with the body and catch the light in motion. Fendi pushes the material towards openwork through laser cutting and hand-cut floral sections assembled to resemble lace. Burberry, meanwhile, explores pleated and quilted leather alongside coated check outerwear, bringing tactile dimension to otherwise clean urban silhouettes.
Intricate pattern can carry as much visual weight as dense cloth. At Fendi, black lace is shaped into long, controlled lines that follow the body without reducing the material to fragility. The tension between sharply structured outerwear and delicately constructed dresses lends the collection much of its character. Saint Laurent goes further by coating sheer lace in silicone, giving it a slick surface and enough firmness to hold its shape. What is conventionally soft and vulnerable begins to behave almost like tailoring.
Wool, shearling and fur-like surfaces are also transformed through technique. At Bottega Veneta, the peacoat becomes a material laboratory: Intrecciato leather sprouts fringe, silk threads imitate curly shearling, and shearling is brushed to resemble fox. Recycled fibreglass—first introduced in Louise Trotter’s Spring/Summer 2026 debut—returns as long, lightweight fringe, now realised in saturated colour and extended to ankle length. The garments appear substantial, yet remain responsive as the wearer moves. Burberry, meanwhile, works its check into shearling and richly textured pile, using vertical surfaces and deep shades of bordeaux, navy and black to create tonal depth without overt decoration.
時尚關鍵字三：風格混搭美學
隨時代推進，個人風格的展現愈發受到重視，「混搭」也成為彰顯自我的手法之一 ，不同風格、材質的對比碰撞出不同造型語彙。Prada 本季將「破碎」化為細緻工藝，透過精巧刺繡與若隱若現的透視效果，在完整與破碎之間形成視覺對比；單品更以輕透紗質搭配中性機能外套，碰撞出柔美與率性並存的風格。Saint Laurent 則以皮草大衣搭配輕盈蕾絲半裙，利用材質與質地的強烈反差，展現女性剛柔並濟的時髦態度；Fendi 則包款跨越時代 ，透過「包疊包」的造型手法，將不同尺寸與輪廓、色彩的復刻款與經典款交疊，讓經典與當代風格相互碰撞。
Keyword 3: The Art of the Mix
As personal style takes precedence over prescriptive dressing, mixing has become a language of self-definition. The most compelling combinations are not random; they use contrast—between texture, mood, function and era—to give familiar pieces new meaning. Prada turns fragmentation into method. Tailoring, sportswear and embroidered satin are layered without hierarchy, while translucent surfaces, faded finishes and materials deliberately abraded to reveal what lies beneath create tension between the intact and the undone. The result balances delicacy with utility, allowing sheer fabrics and functional outerwear to occupy the same visual register. Saint Laurent pairs enveloping shearling with sheer, silicone-coated lace, using extremes of weight and transparency to sharpen the collection’s sensuality. Fendi carries the mix across time: Baguette re-editions and enduring house shapes return in varied colours, textures and finishes, while dual-bag styling places archival memory and present-day utility within the same look.
時尚關鍵字四：性別流動魅力
近年來，舒適與中性風格逐漸成為大眾日常穿著的一部分 ，這也代表服裝不再受性別框架束縛與定義，這樣的「性別流動」愈發成為品牌系列中的重要語彙。 Fendi 以「共享衣櫥」為靈感，系列造型中能見到同時由男女演繹的單品，率性搭配打破既有穿衣規則 ，讓人不再只以「我能穿什麼」思考，而是以「我想穿什麼」出發。誇張的 X 型、不過度的深 V 線條與側面鏤空，在展現身形之餘，反而成為凸顯鮮明個性的魅力選擇。而談到顛覆性別框架的經典代表，則不得不提 Saint Laurent 的經典煙裝（Le Smoking），標誌性深 V 領線與存在感強的劍領，以克制剪裁將當時獨屬於男性的西裝重新詮釋，中性輪廓中注入大膽的女性魅力。適逢 Le Smoking 問世 60 週年，Saint Laurent 於今年秋冬再次重新詮釋經典，以強烈肩線、俐落收腰與大面積黑色剪裁凸顯身體輪廓，並透過西裝結構與肌膚裸露的對比，展現剛柔並存的當代性感。
Keyword 4: Gender in Motion
Comfort and gender-neutral dressing are no longer peripheral ideas; they have become part of the everyday wardrobe. AW26 takes the conversation further, treating masculine and feminine less as fixed categories than as qualities that can coexist within the same garment—or the same closet.
Fendi makes that position explicit. The house’s show notes recast the wardrobe as a space of relationship and accumulated culture, with masculine and feminine understood as shared qualities rather than opposites. Men and women walk together in overlapping looks, from tailored jackets and denim to fur-trimmed outerwear, dissolving the logic of separate wardrobes. Deep V necklines, side openings and X-shaped silhouettes do not prescribe identity; they become options for articulating character. The starting point is no longer “What am I allowed to wear?” but “What do I want to wear?”
Few garments have challenged gender convention as enduringly as Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking. Introduced in 1966, the women’s tuxedo borrowed the codes of menswear while adapting them to the female body, becoming a lasting emblem of style, autonomy and female liberation. On its 60th anniversary, Anthony Vaccarello returned to the idea through 14 black suits, assertive shoulders, plunging fronts and exposed skin. Rather than simply reproduce an archival icon, he renewed its original tension: discipline and desire, masculine structure and feminine agency.
時尚關鍵字五：巨型配飾當道
在秋冬，繁複層次的造型若搭配小尺寸配飾容易被服裝份量掩蓋，因此本季許多品牌不約而同放大配飾比例 ，營造視覺焦點。秀場上能見皮草大衣搭配蝴蝶結寬版腰帶，優雅姿態兼具氣勢。而巨型的大耳環與項鍊元素包括珍珠、金屬鍊條甚至心型與花卉、和平鴿，透過誇張尺寸與趣味造型，為秋冬造型增添戲劇張力。墨鏡則以幾乎覆蓋上半張臉的輪廓成為本季亮點，亮面材質搭配弧形鏡框或帶有頓感的厚實輪廓，營造強烈而現代的時髦氣場。
Keyword 5: Accessories, Amplified
Against the layered complexity of winter dressing, smaller accessories can easily disappear. This season, designers restore their impact by increasing scale and allowing belts, jewellery and eyewear to anchor the entire composition.
Voluminous coats are cinched with broad belts and bow-like ties, giving softness a sense of control. Jewellery becomes equally emphatic: pearls, heavy chain links and sculptural motifs move from accent to focal point. Saint Laurent’s oversized dove earrings rise almost to brooch scale, while Dior turns water lilies into substantial earrings and brooches. Through magnified proportions and playful forms, these pieces lend even the most composed winter look a note of theatricality.
Sunglasses follow the same logic, expanding into wraparound or mask-like shapes that cover much of the upper face. Glossy surfaces, curved lenses and thick, weighty frames lend the look a bold, distinctly modern reserve. For AW26, accessories are no longer the final touch. They are the gesture that holds the entire look together.
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