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EDITOR 簡妤安 Annie Chien｜TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin｜PHOTOGRAPHER Leon Hung｜LOCATION 宇方圓 UNITOPIA

台北信義區從不缺頂級餐廳，缺的是一個能讓主人真正自在宴客的地方。「宇方圓」補上了這塊拼圖：全台首家租下整層百貨商場的頂級會所式餐廳，坐落於微風松高地下二樓，已低調開幕。我們邀請執行長林奕寬（Demon Lin）與行政主廚吳宇軒，聊聊宇方圓如何攜手粵菜大師鄺啟明，讓兩代主廚相互激盪，以「精緻當代中菜」重新定義高端飲宴。這裡沒有制式套餐，兩支廚藝團隊同時駕馭粵菜與法菜，客人想吃什麼、想怎麼吃，都能被滿足。「一方天地，爾我共樂」，這樣的餐廳，在台灣目前確實少見。

A New Chapter in Xinyi
A Realm of Its Own
UNITOPIA
An Exclusive Dining Club

High-end restaurants abound in Taipei’s Xinyi District, yet few give hosts the freedom to entertain entirely on their own terms. That is the premise behind UNITOPIA. Quietly opened on the second basement level of Breeze Song Gao, it is Taiwan’s first luxury dining club to occupy an entire floor of a department store. We spoke with CEO Demon Lin and Executive Chef Wu Yu-Hsuan about the restaurant’s collaboration with Cantonese cuisine master Kwong Kai Ming. The partnership brings together two generations of chefs to redefine luxury dining through “refined contemporary Chinese cuisine.” There are no fixed menus. Two culinary teams versed in both Cantonese and French cooking accommodate what guests wish to eat and how they wish to enjoy it. “A private realm, a pleasure shared”—there is currently nothing quite like it in Taiwan.

宇方圓的念頭醞釀已久。Demon 回憶，十年前常往來中國大陸，就看過這類會所式餐廳，篤定台灣有這樣的市場，只是時機未到。轉折點在 2021 年疫情期間，「捌伍添第」剛開幕，熟客反映希望有更私密、自在的用餐場域，這股需求成了宇方圓誕生的起點。宇方圓從一開始設定全包廂形式，全區規劃十三間包廂，各自獨立、彼此互不干擾，每間近乎隔音室規格，挑高逾 4 米、兩層天花；聲學設計、低頻震動處理與空氣循環系統，撐起舒適體驗。

Demon 直言，這是宇方圓跟一般高端餐廳最大的分野：多數精緻餐廳以主廚意志為核心；宇方圓則完全反過來，一切以客人需求為主，廚藝團隊須同時擁有廣度與深度。宇方圓因此難歸類成正宗粵菜或新式台菜，而市場已給它一個名字：「精緻當代中菜」，融合大江南北、跳脫框架。

The idea for UNITOPIA had been taking shape for years. Demon recalls encountering this style of private dining club during frequent visits to mainland China a decade ago. He was certain that a market existed in Taiwan, although the time had not yet come. The turning point arrived in 2021, during the pandemic, shortly after 85TD opened. Regular guests began asking for somewhere more private and relaxed to dine, and their requests became the starting point for UNITOPIA.Conceived from the outset as an all-private-room restaurant, UNITOPIA comprises thirteen separate dining rooms, each self-contained so that parties never disturb one another. Every room is built to standards approaching those of a soundproof room, with ceilings over four metres high and a double-layered ceiling structure. Careful acoustic planning, control of low-frequency vibration and an air-circulation system together create a comfortable dining environment.

This, Demon says, is what sets UNITOPIA apart from a conventional high-end restaurant. Most fine-dining establishments place the chef’s vision at the centre of the experience. UNITOPIA reverses that principle: everything begins with the guest, requiring a culinary team with both breadth and depth. The restaurant cannot be readily classified as either orthodox Cantonese cuisine or modern Taiwanese cooking. The market has already found a name for its approach: “refined contemporary Chinese cuisine”cooking that embraces traditions from across China without being bound by them.

宇方圓的廚藝團隊，以粵菜大師鄺啟明擔任廚藝總監、吳宇軒任行政主廚。吳師傅是台灣新生代中廚代表，歷練過六福萬怡酒店「粵亮」、台北漢來大飯店「東方樓」等餐廳，這股精神也在幾道招牌菜中具體呈現。〈鬼佬酒醋小炒骨〉保留經典做法，肉品依瘦肉、肥肉、筋「6：3：1」比例挑選，以蔬菜與優格軟化，醬汁捨棄鎮江醋，改用紅酒醋、果漾醋調製，熟悉中帶著清新新意。

〈法國皮蒂維亞和牛鹹派〉外型如威靈頓牛排，實為源自十七世紀的法國經典，內餡是菲力牛肉、香菇泥與二十五頭南非鮑，讓西式老菜多了東方況味。

每日手工現做的〈惹味烏參海鮮餃〉，港式內餡加入主廚自製沙嗲醬，多了股意外辛香。

招牌大菜〈三弄砂鍋濃湯干貝燉富貴雞〉講究一菜三吃：先品濃醇雞湯，再嘗藏於雞腹的桂花魚翅，最後以雞湯做打邊爐湯底，涮食金腿魚滑、鳳尾雲吞與蛤蜊燒賣，由吳師傅桌邊服務。

UNITOPIA’s culinary team is led by Culinary Director Kwong Kai Ming, a master of Cantonese cuisine, and Executive Chef Wu Yu-Hsuan. One of a new generation of Chinese-cuisine chefs in Taiwan, Chef Wu has worked at restaurants including Moonlight Cantonese Restaurant at Courtyard by Marriott Taipei and The Orient Cantonese Restaurant at Grand Hilai Taipei. His respect for tradition and appetite for invention come through in several signature dishes.The Sweet-and-Sour Pork Ribs with Red Wine and Fruit Vinegars retain the foundations of the Cantonese classic. The meat is selected for a precise balance of lean meat, fat and sinew in a ratio of six to three to one, then tenderised with vegetables and yoghurt. Instead of Chinkiang vinegar, the sauce is made with red wine vinegar and fruit vinegar, bringing a fresh lift to familiar flavours.

Although the French Pithivier with Wagyu Beef and Abalone resembles Beef Wellington, it is based on a French classic dating to the seventeenth century. Beef tenderloin, mushroom duxelles and 25-head South African abalone form the filling, giving this traditional Western dish a distinctly Eastern note.

Handmade fresh each day, the Spiced Sea Cucumber and Seafood Dumpling combines a Hong Kong-style filling with the chef’s own satay sauce, adding an unexpected aromatic heat.

The restaurant’s grand signature dish, Three-Way Clay-Pot Prosperity Chicken with Dried Scallop in Rich Broth, is enjoyed in three stages. Guests first savour the rich chicken broth, followed by the delicate Cantonese-style “Kwai Fa” shark fin tucked inside the chicken. Finally, the broth becomes the base for a hotpot of fish paste with cured ham, phoenix-tail wontons and clam siu mai, prepared tableside by Chef Wu.

吳師傅坦言，和鄺啟明師傅共事後，收穫最大的是眼界。鄺師傅走過新加坡、紐約、杜拜、曼谷等地頂尖飯店中餐廳，交流間激盪出更多層次的可能。兩人一位歷練國際，一位深耕本土老菜，卻同樣相信經典要先做到位，才有資格談創新。

Demon 則從時尚產業出身，看向台灣高端餐飲未來：他認為當紅的 Fine Dining 會逐漸吃力，消費者嚐過太多好東西，難再被炫技說服；把 Fine Dining 等級料理放進自在氛圍的「精緻餐酒」，會是接下來的主力。本土客人自主性只會越來越高，高端餐飲勢必走向多元；至於國際客源，在地獨特性反而更值得深耕。為台灣餐飲市場創造出無限體驗的 Demon 笑說，自己更像導演或策展人，讓主廚這位明星有最好的舞台，呈現最對味的作品，無論商務或私人聚會，他希望每位賓客都能在宇方圓，找到屬於自己的一方天地。

Working with Chef Kwong, Chef Wu says, has changed the way he looks at food. Chef Kwong’s career has taken him to leading hotel Chinese restaurants in Singapore, New York, Dubai and Bangkok. Their exchanges have pushed both flavour and technique in new directions. One brings extensive international experience; the other possesses a deep knowledge of local classics. Yet both believe that the classics must first be mastered before a chef earns the right to innovate.

Demon came to the restaurant business from the fashion industry and has his own view of where Taiwan’s high-end dining scene is heading. He believes that fine dining, despite its current popularity, will gradually find it harder to hold diners’ attention. Consumers have already experienced so much exceptional food that technical showmanship alone is no longer enough to impress. He sees “casual fine dining”fine-dining-calibre cooking served in a more relaxed setting—as the next major direction.Local diners will only become more independent in their choices, making greater diversity inevitable at the highest end of the market. For international guests, Demon sees greater value in developing something recognisably local.Demon laughs that he is closer to a director or curator. The chef is the star, and his role is to provide the best possible stage for work that strikes exactly the right note. Whether for business entertaining or a private gathering, he hopes every guest will find a realm of their own at UNITOPIA.

INFO
宇方圓 頂級會所餐廳
地址：微風松高B2F，110臺北市信義區西村里松高路16號B2
電話：（02）2729-8897