enya FASHION QUEEN

EDITOR Angel Huang｜TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin

色彩很輕易洩漏一個人的心情。平日偏愛素淨衣著，也可能對一枚彩寶戒指毫無抵抗力。帕拉伊巴碧璽近乎高光的藍綠、沙弗萊石鮮明的翠綠，戴上手整身裝扮便有了焦點。彩色寶石的價值正是這份直接而專屬的偏愛。極繁主義與Y2K裝飾熱潮重返時尚圈，讓大膽裝扮再度成為焦點。珠寶典藏裡早有不少精彩作品。1950至1960年代的晚宴與雞尾酒派對碩大的戒指、光彩奪目的彩石；義大利珠寶對每種色調與切割的混搭，也留下了至今仍令人眼睛一亮的設計。今年，各大珠寶世家再次展露配色的前衛。Harry Winston重拾派對珠寶的華麗，Cartier替LOVE增添色彩，Van Cleef & Arpels大玩藍寶石的深淺，Bvlgari延續多色寶石的多樣組合，Piaget則端出了新一輪珠寶雞尾酒。搭配著高級衣著各有各的穿戴美學。

Colour as Attitude

The Bold Beauty of Rare Coloured Gems

Colour readily reveals a mood. Even someone who favours an understated wardrobe may find a coloured gemstone ring irresistible. The luminous blue-green of Paraíba tourmaline or the vivid green of tsavorite can give an entire outfit a focal point. Much of the appeal of coloured gems lies in this immediate, deeply personal attraction. As maximalism and Y2K embellishment return to fashion, dressing boldly is once again in the spotlight. Jewellery archives offer plenty of inspiration: the oversized rings and brilliant coloured stones worn to dinners and cocktail parties in the 1950s and 1960s, alongside Italian jewellery’s adventurous combinations of colours and cuts. Many of these designs remain striking today. This year, the jewellery houses are taking fresh liberties with colour. Harry Winston revisits the glamour of party jewels; Cartier brings new hues to LOVE; Van Cleef & Arpels explores gradations of sapphire; Bvlgari continues its rich combinations of coloured stones; and Piaget serves another round of jewelled cocktails. Paired with elegant clothes, each offers a different approach to dressing with jewellery.

HARRY WINSTON

一枚出色的雞尾酒戒指，應該讓人們隔著晚宴餐桌也會多看一眼。Harry Winston的Winston Candy，便承襲了這種高貴的華麗。今年全新作品的靈感來自1950至1960年代的設計手稿。當時社交活動興盛，珠寶也偏愛醒目的造型與色彩。彩色主石搭配周圍配石，二者同樣受到重視，為晚宴服裝增添華麗。Winston Candy沿用這份設計思路，以糖果般豐富的色澤，重新組合珍稀彩寶。帕拉伊巴碧璽的霓虹藍綠、沙弗萊石的鮮綠、錳鋁榴石的濃郁暖橘，各呈現寶石之美；海水藍寶的澄澈藍色與尖晶石的明亮光彩，提供了不同的搭配元素。主石之外，配石也可以亮麗，讓一枚戒指呈現出更多繽紛的色彩。欣賞時，不妨留意中央寶石周圍的安排：濃色與淡色如何相鄰，冷暖色調如何相互襯托，這更是雞尾酒戒指設計的巧思。系列亦將這份繽紛延伸至珠寶腕錶。從指間到腕際，彩寶都有充分表現的空間。「Candy」取名輕快，作品卻保留著昔日盛裝珠寶的氣勢，讓每個女人們適合一場值得精心打扮的晚宴。

A fine cocktail ring should catch the eye from across a dinner table. Harry Winston’s Winston Candy inherits precisely this kind of glamour. This year’s new creations draw on design sketches from the 1950s and 1960s. An active social scene encouraged bold jewellery, with striking shapes and colours complementing evening dress. Centre stones and their surrounding gems both received close attention. Winston Candy follows that approach, bringing rare coloured stones together in combinations as varied as a selection of sweets. Paraíba tourmaline’s neon blue-green, the vivid green of tsavorite and the rich, warm orange of spessartite garnet each express a different aspect of a gemstone’s beauty. The clear blue of aquamarine and the brilliance of spinel broaden the possibilities. Colourful accent stones add still more variety around the centre gem. Look closely at these surrounding stones: the placement of pale colours beside deeper shades, and the interplay of warm and cool tones, reveal the thought behind a cocktail ring’s design. The collection extends this use of colour to jewellery watches, giving the stones room to shine on both finger and wrist. The name “Candy” is light-hearted, but the pieces retain the grandeur of formal jewels from an earlier era—an invitation to dress beautifully for a special evening.

CARTIER

LOVE的橢圓輪廓與螺絲元素，早已為品牌追隨者熟悉到不需多作介紹。Cartier這次保留原設計，單憑寶石的顏色便讓手鐲有了不同面向。今年推出的限定LOVE Colors系列共推出六款作品，色彩的用法分為兩種。三款以粉紅藍寶石、藍寶石或沙弗萊石榴石環繞鐲身鋪陳，十顆鑽石點綴其間。單色寶石連成完整色面，粉紅、藍與綠各自鮮明，鑽石的亮白也因此格外清楚。LOVE原有的俐落線條，換上彩寶後仍然成立，只是視覺重心從金屬轉向了顏色。另外三款將十顆漸變寶石融入螺絲元素，留下較多金屬與彩石相襯的空間。黃金和玫瑰金款採用粉紅及黃色藍寶石、橙色錳鋁榴石、綠色沙弗萊石榴石與紫水晶；白金款則搭配海水藍寶、粉紅及藍色藍寶石、坦桑石與紫水晶，整體偏向清冷的藍紫色調。對已經收藏LOVE的人而言，新作提供了重新搭配的機會。原有的金屬款旁，可以增添一只單色彩寶手鐲；喜歡更豐富的組合，則可嘗試單色與漸變款疊戴。不同年代的LOVE系列放在一起，寶石與金屬的差異反而更清晰。

LOVE’s oval silhouette and screw motifs need little introduction to admirers of Cartier. This time, the house retains the original design while using coloured gemstones to give its bracelets a different character. This year’s limited-edition LOVE Colors collection comprises six creations, with two approaches to colour. Three bracelets feature pink sapphires, blue sapphires or tsavorite garnets set around the wrist, punctuated by ten diamonds. Each forms a continuous field of colour, with the white brilliance of the diamonds standing out against the pink, blue or green. LOVE’s clean lines remain intact, though attention shifts from the metal to the stones. The other three incorporate ten gemstones in graduated colours into the screw motifs, allowing more of the metal to show alongside them. The yellow and rose gold versions feature pink and yellow sapphires, orange spessartite garnets, green tsavorite garnets and amethysts. The white gold version combines aquamarines, pink and blue sapphires, tanzanites and amethysts, favouring a cooler palette of blues and purples. For those who already collect LOVE, the new pieces offer further ways to wear it. A bracelet set in a single colour can sit beside an existing gold design, while single-colour and graduated versions can be stacked for a richer combination. Worn together, LOVE bracelets from different years bring the distinctions between gemstones and metals into sharper focus.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

看過對比強烈的色彩變化，再看Van Cleef & Arpels的Palmyre，會特別留意它的深淺。藍寶石由淡至濃依序排列，相鄰兩顆的差異並不彰顯，連成一排便有了完整的色彩漸層。Palmyre誕生於1978年，以鑽石與貴金屬鏤空細工構成細緻網狀結構，2015年首度加入藍色與粉紅色藍寶石。今年新作以一至四行寶石串聯，延續藍寶石搭配白K金、粉紅藍寶石搭配玫瑰金的選擇。藍色清透，粉紅溫潤，兩種金屬分別襯出寶石的混搭。漸層配色看似單純，每顆寶石都緊鄰下一顆，色澤銜接的流暢一眼便能察覺；增加至數行之後還須顧及整體排列的協調。這份細緻值得收藏。全鏤空金質結構則讓成行寶石保持柔軟，隨佩戴者的動作起伏。Palmyre的華貴因此不顯厚重：寶石排列工整，落在身上卻能自然舒展，這是呈現色彩應有的態度。

After strong colour contrasts, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Palmyre draws attention to subtler changes in shade. Sapphires progress from pale to deep blue. The difference between neighbouring stones is slight, but together they form a complete graduation of colour. Introduced in 1978, Palmyre combines diamonds with openwork in precious metal to create a delicate mesh-like structure. Blue and pink sapphire versions first appeared in 2015. This year’s additions feature one to four rows of gems, continuing the pairing of blue sapphires with white gold and pink sapphires with rose gold. The metals complement the clear blues and warm pinks of the stones. Graduated colour may appear simple, yet placing gemstones directly beside one another makes the smoothness of each transition immediately apparent. With several rows, the arrangement must also remain harmonious as a whole. Such refinement adds to the collection’s appeal. The fully openworked gold structure gives the rows of stones flexibility, allowing them to move with the wearer. Palmyre achieves its opulence without appearing heavy: precisely arranged gems settle naturally against the body, giving colour an elegant ease.

BVLGARI

Bvlgari對彩寶的呈現向來鮮明。自1950年代的「色彩革命」以來，品牌便大膽並置不同寶石，讓色調、形狀與切割都參與設計。2003年問世的Allegra，將這份偏愛發揮得相當完整。玫瑰金款以粉紅碧璽為中心，黃金款則選用海水藍寶。前者的主石與金屬色澤相近，後者以清澈淡藍搭配金黃，已有明顯的冷暖對比。周圍再加入不同顏色、形狀與切割的寶石及鑽石，使構圖向外延伸，呈現珠寶的立體感。Allegra的可看之處，主寶石燦爛奪目，周圍搭配寶石也各有表現；不對稱輪廓讓項鍊、耳環與戒指多了變化，視線不會只停在中央。寶石的大小、位置與彼此間距，正是這工藝的極致表現。這樣的珠寶大器典雅。純正色彩美學與具有品牌辨識度極高的造型，呼應雞尾酒珠寶對盛裝的想像。Bvlgari擅長的義式華麗浪漫深深刻在配戴Allegra的每場晚宴裡。

Bvlgari has long taken a bold approach to coloured gems. Since its “colour revolution” in the 1950s, the house has brought different stones together, treating hue, shape and cut as integral parts of a design. Allegra, introduced in 2003, gives full expression to this approach. The rose gold versions centre on pink tourmaline, while the yellow gold designs feature aquamarine. In the former, gemstone and metal share a similar warmth; in the latter, clear pale blue contrasts with yellow gold. Surrounding gems and diamonds in different colours, shapes and cuts extend the composition outwards, giving the jewellery volume. Allegra rewards a closer look. The centre stone is brilliant, but the surrounding gems have their own appeal. Asymmetrical outlines introduce variety across necklaces, earrings and rings, drawing the eye beyond the centre. The size, position and spacing of the stones reveal the care devoted to their arrangement. The result is generous, elegant jewellery. Rich colours and highly recognisable forms recall the pleasure of dressing for a cocktail party. Worn to dinner, Allegra brings Bvlgari’s Italian glamour and romance to the occasion.

PIAGET

Piaget的Cocktail系列有一份討喜的幽默感。檸檬皮、荔枝與調酒配料，都可以成為選擇寶石的線索。看見戒指上的顏色就想起了熟悉的酸香與甜味。由Stéphanie Sivrière於2010年創作的Cocktail系列，2026年帶來七款新作：Secret Blue、Basily Dream、Minty Zest、Frosted Azur、Violet on the Rocks、Lychee Twist與Sparkling Yuzu。名字先透露了幾分滋味，接著由彩寶完成各自的配方。

黃色藍寶石取意於檸檬皮，玫瑰水晶柔嫩的粉色令人聯想到玉荷包荔枝，綠碧璽則在橙色錳鋁榴石旁添上鮮綠點綴。這些具體聯想，使多色寶石的搭配多了一層趣味，也讓每款作品更容易被記住。雞尾酒戒指原本就有引人注目的分量，加入果物與飲品的想像之後，盛裝珠寶也顯得更貼近晚宴。七款作品可單獨佩戴，亦可相互搭配；選清爽的色調，還是鮮豔一些，想像這不是在晚宴上看著一份華麗的酒單。

彩色珠寶的選擇往往很私人很主觀。同樣戒指，有人看見主寶石的光彩，有人偏愛周圍寶石的色澤；這一季的作品提供多樣化的選擇，從自己喜歡的顏色開始，當晚宴開始，盛裝成為今晚最閃耀的女主角。

There is an appealing humour to Piaget’s Cocktail collection. Lemon peel, lychees and cocktail garnishes all suggest ways of choosing gemstones. The colours of a ring can call to mind familiar tartness and sweetness. Created by Stéphanie Sivrière in 2010, the Cocktail collection welcomes seven new designs in 2026: Secret Blue, Basily Dream, Minty Zest, Frosted Azur, Violet on the Rocks, Lychee Twist and Sparkling Yuzu. Their names offer a first suggestion of flavour; coloured gems complete each recipe.

Yellow sapphire evokes lemon peel, while the soft pink of rose quartz recalls the delicate flesh of a Yuh Her Pau lychee. Green tourmaline adds a fresh accent beside orange spessartite garnet. These recognisable references make the gemstone combinations playful and give each creation a memorable identity. Cocktail rings already command attention. References to fruit and drinks make them all the more at home at an evening party. The seven designs can be worn alone or combined with one another.

Choosing between a refreshing palette and something more vivid feels rather like browsing an elaborate cocktail list. The choice of coloured jewellery is deeply personal. In the same ring, one person may be drawn to the brilliance of the centre stone, another to the colours of the surrounding gems. This season offers plenty of variety. Begin with a colour you love, and dress to be the woman who lights up the evening.