enya FASHION QUEEN

EDITOR 簡妤安 Annie Chien｜TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin｜PHOTOGRAPHER Leon Hung｜LOCATION 山崎（台北店）

2018 年開業三個月便摘下《米其林指南》一星的東京割烹名店「山崎」，以清晰直接的料理風格，在傳統和食之外開闢新路。今年，山崎首度跨海來台，由旅日修業七年的台灣料理長郭原甫（Jeff）負責台北店料理。從日本料理的傳統基礎出發，融入台灣的水果、蔬菜與辛香料，Jeff 在延續創辦人山崎志朗料理理念的同時，也逐步摸索自己的風格。

Michelin Starred Kappo a New Expression

Tokyo’s Yamazaki earned a Michelin star just three months after opening in 2018, charting a fresh course beyond traditional washoku with its clear, direct approach to cooking. This year, the restaurant made its Taiwan debut, with Taiwanese chef Jeff, who trained in Japan for seven years, leading the Taipei kitchen. Drawing on Japanese culinary traditions, he incorporates Taiwanese fruit, vegetables and aromatics, carrying forward founder Shiro Yamazaki’s philosophy while gradually finding his own voice.

「味淡即真味」，曾是 Jeff 初學日本料理時奉行的觀念，認為應以清淡調味呈現食材本身的價值。加入山崎前，他已在日本修業多年，先於東京壽司店跟隨第一位日本師傅學藝。對他來說，這位師傅某種程度上就像父親，不僅傳授料理技術，也讓他學習身為料理人應有的禮節與對食材的尊重。之後，他前往京都的割烹店修業近兩年，卻也一度陷入迷惘，思考自己的料理風格該如何建立，甚至因為自己是台灣人，而懷疑做出的日本料理是否真正稱得上日本料理。

加入山崎團隊後，山崎志朗引導他從客人的感受出發：「客人吃到這道菜時，你希望他是什麼樣的反應？你希望他吃到什麼？」Jeff 將日本料理的框架比喻為畫框，認為框架之內仍有許多色彩與調味可以運用。以和食為本，融入中餐技術與各地食材，料理便有了更多可能，他也不再執著於複製東京本店的菜色，而是試著在延續山崎核心的同時，發展本身的料理風格。

“Subtle seasoning reveals true flavour” was a principle Jeff embraced early in his training, believing that a light touch best expressed an ingredient’s inherent qualities. Before joining Yamazaki, he had spent years honing his craft in Japan, beginning at a Tokyo sushi restaurant. His first Japanese mentor became something of a father figure, teaching him not only technique but also the etiquette and respect for ingredients expected of a chef. Nearly two years at a kappo restaurant in Kyoto followed, though this period also brought uncertainty. As he struggled to define his style, he even questioned whether, as a Taiwanese chef, his cooking could truly be considered Japanese.

After Jeff joined Yamazaki, Shiro Yamazaki encouraged him to begin with the guest’s experience: “How do you want guests to react when they taste this dish? What do you want them to taste?” Jeff likens the conventions of Japanese cooking to a picture frame, within which there is still ample room for colour and seasoning. With washoku as a foundation, Chinese techniques and ingredients from different regions open up further possibilities. He no longer feels bound to replicate the Tokyo restaurant’s dishes, seeking instead to develop his own style while remaining true to Yamazaki’s essence.

山崎台北店九成以上的漁獲來自日本，蔬菜則盡可能選用台灣食材。Jeff 喜歡運用水果與辛香料，例如將芭樂製成漬物；甜點「山崎冰淇淋」的靈感，則來自他帶山崎志朗逛寧夏夜市時，對方看見「西瓜牛奶」招牌，兩人討論後發展出的作品。料理方面，山崎會運用蔬菜、香料與醬汁包覆魚介風味，讓客人更容易感受鯛魚、比目魚等白身魚的細緻滋味。

回台後，Jeff 也發現東京口味相較台灣偏鹹，台灣人則較喜歡醬油香氣，甜味接受度也較高，因此持續調整鹽分與甜味。從高湯比例到天氣炎熱、連日下雨時的調味，都需要在板前反覆修正。即使同仁希望他提供食譜，他仍認為，高湯細膩多變，即使比例相同，也可能因製作過程而產生差異。未來，他還想嘗試以日式調味呈現羊肉 Shabu-shabu。即使這道料理可能引起疑問，他仍相信，料理不該在嘗試之前就被傳統框架限制。

More than 90 per cent of the seafood at Yamazaki Taipei comes from Japan, while vegetables are sourced locally wherever possible. Jeff enjoys working with fruit and aromatics, turning guava into pickles, for instance. The dessert Yamazaki Ice Cream began with a visit to Ningxia Night Market: while Jeff was showing Shiro Yamazaki around, the latter spotted a sign for watermelon milk, sparking a conversation that eventually inspired the dish. In its savoury cooking, Yamazaki layers vegetables, spices and sauces around seafood, helping guests appreciate the delicate flavours of white fish such as sea bream and flounder.

On returning to Taiwan, Jeff also found that tastes in Tokyo leaned towards saltier flavours, while Taiwanese diners favoured the aroma of soy sauce and were more receptive to sweetness. He continues to adjust salt and sweetness accordingly. From the proportions of his dashi to seasoning in hot weather or during prolonged rain, adjustments are made continually behind the counter. Even when colleagues ask for recipes, he maintains that dashi is nuanced and variable: identical proportions can yield different results depending on how it is prepared. He would also like to explore lamb shabu-shabu with Japanese seasonings. Even if the idea raises questions, he believes tradition should never rule out a dish before it has been tried.

旅日七年後回到台灣，Jeff 發現自己仍有許多在地食材需要重新認識。未來，他期待持續發掘台灣的新食材，思考如何與日本食材結合，呈現山崎的料理精神。他也希望菜色隨季節更迭，讓客人每隔一段時間再訪，都能期待新的滋味。對 Jeff 來說，料理風格沒有唯一的答案；持續認識食材、觀察客人的反應，並在每次嘗試中尋找新的可能，是山崎台北店值得探索的方向。

Returning to Taiwan after seven years in Japan, Jeff realised how many local ingredients he still needed to rediscover. He hopes to keep exploring Taiwanese ingredients and how they might work alongside Japanese ingredients to express Yamazaki’s culinary spirit. He also wants the menu to evolve with the seasons, giving guests new flavours to look forward to each time they return. For Jeff, there is no single way to define a culinary style. Getting to know ingredients, observing guests’ responses and finding fresh possibilities with each attempt offer a direction for Yamazaki Taipei to explore.

INFO
山崎
地址：台北市信義區逸仙路32巷15號1樓
營業時間：週二至週六17:00~22:30（週日、週一固定店休，不定休日請參見官方社群）
座位：板前10席、包廂2間（單間6席，全開共12席），共22席
電話：(02) 8780-2688